Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
. CA 02148944 2004-07-26
s
WO 94/10975 ~ ~ PCT/EP93/03098
- 1 -
AQUEOUS SHOWER-GEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ANIONIC
SURFACTANT
technical Field
The present invention relates to washing compositions.
More particularly, the invention relates to so-called
'shower-gel' compositions for washing the human body and
which deliver oily components to the skin and/or hair.
~ackaround to the Invention
It is well known to use oils to deliver a skin feel
benefit. For example it has been known since antiquity to
add oil to bathwater so as to obtain a benefit, by
deposition of a portion of the oil onto the skin. It is
also known to prepare compositions which contain both one
or more oils and a surfactant so as to form an emulsion on
dilution with bathwater.
Over the past few decades, for reasons of economy, showers
have become increasingly popular and so-called 'shower
.~ gels' have become increasingly popular as washing
compositions. Shower gels generally differ from bath
additives in that they have a higher viscosity, due to the
presence of higher levels of thickening surfactant systems
and electrolytes. The high viscosity of shower gels is
necessary to prevent the composition being washed off the
skin before a foam can be developed and soil can be
solubilised.
It is known to include oils in shower-gel formulations,
these oils have been selected from relatively high
molecular weight oils such as silicone oil and relatively
low molecular weight oils such as mineral oils and oily
33~~82 ~~~~~~~
- 2 -
esters such as isopropyl palmitate and myristate. In the
context of the present invention a low molecular weight oil
is one with a molecular weight below 4000.
Furthermore, it is known to include emollients in a range
of different product types.
French Patent Specification No 265c) 291 discloses neutral
liquid detergent compositions in the form of a lotion and
comprising surface active agents and up to 3o by weight
emollient-moisturiser, based on thE~ total level of solids.
Hair conditioning shampoos comprising 0.4~ by weight
silicone conditioning agent together with anionic
7_5 surfactant and polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty ester are
known from w0-A-9217 154.
It is also known, from European Parent Specification 486
074, to include oily components sur_h as isopropyl palmitate
20 and myristate in make-up removal compositions. Such oil-
based compositions tend to be substantially free from added
water. Cosmetic compositions containing high levels of
oil, in particular 20-80wt~ oil, anionic surfactant and a
combination of hydrophobic and hydrophilic emulsifiers or
25 nonionic surfactants are also disclosed in DD 236014.
Isopropyl palmitate and myristate are known and used as
moisturisers in skin products such as hand creams and the
like. Hand creams4~'are non-foaming, highly thickened
compositions which can comprise a :Lamellar phase of
surfactant or. which employ other thickening agents
incompatible with foaming surfactants.
Af~,~EN~EE' SHEET
c3a~z
2148944
- 2a -
In shower gels, only low levels of the above-mentioned low
molecular weight oils have been employed, as higher levels
of these oils are incompatible with the foaming surfactants
generally employed.
It is believed that the levels of relatively low molecular
weight, moisturising oils present :in known shower-gel
compositions are insufficient to ar_hieve the desired skin-
benefits.
~_5 The technical problem faced by the present invention, is
therefore to provide a foaming composition having a
viscosity suitable for use as a shower-gel, which contains
an effective level of low molecular weight moisturising oil
and which does not lose product structure due to the
20 presence of this oil.
Brief Descrir~tion of the Invention
we have determined that some or a1:1 of the above-mentioned
~'.5 difficulties can be overcome by formulating an oily shower
gel with an anionic surfactant using a fatty acid
monoglyceride polyglycol ether as a thickening surfactant
f
AM;.NDt~ SHEET
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
2~~,ggt~~
- 3 -
in the presence of at least one of a specified class of
emulsifier, namely the nonionics having a HLB of 5-10.
peta~led De~c~r;pr;nn of the Invention
The present invention provides an aqueous shower-gel
composition comprising:
a) 10-30~wt of an anionic surfactant,
b) 3-l5~wt of an oily component, the ratio of said
anionic sur:Eactant to said oil being at least 1:1.
c) 1- 5~wt of a fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol
ether, and,
d) 1- 5~wt of at least one nonionic surfactant having a
HLB between S and 10.
Oilv Component
The oily component is an essential element of compositions
according to the present invention. The oily component is
present at a level, 3-l5~wt on product which provides a
skin benefit. Preferred levels of oily component range
from 5-l0~wt on product.
One function of the oily component is believed to be that
of reducing water loss from the stratum corneum. There
are believed to bf=_ two mechanisms by which this can be
accomplished. One is to deposit on the surface of the
skin an occlusive layer which reduces the rate of
evaporation. The second method is to add nonocclusive
hydgroscopic substances to the stratum corneum which will
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
CA 02148944 2004-07-26
WO 94/10975 . , PGT/EP93/03098
- 4 -
retain water, and make this water available to the stratum
corneum to alter its physical properties and produce a
cosmetically desirable effect. Nonocclusive moisturisers
also function by improving the lubricity of the skin.
Both occlusive and nonocclusive moisturisers can work in
the present invention. Some~examples of moisturisers are
long chain fatty acids, liquid water-soluble polyols,
glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol,
iethoxylated/propoxylated ethers of methyl glucose (eg.,
methyl gluceth-20) and ethoxylated/-propoxylated ethers of
lanolin alcohol ( a . g . , SolulanTM-75).
Some occlusive moisturisers include petrolatum, mineral
oil, beeswax, silicones, lanolin and oil-soluble lanolin
derivatives, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such
as behenyl alcohol, squalene and squalane, and various
animal and vegetable oils such as almond oil, peanut oil,
wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot
pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds,
rapeseed,. cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil,
pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower
oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil
and sunflower seed oil. )
Preferably the oily component is a non-occlusive
moisturiser.
Examples of non-occlusive moisturizers include hexadecyl,
myristyl, isodecyl or isopropyl esters of adipic, lactic,
oleic, stearic, isostearic, myristic or linoleic acids, as
well as many of their corresponding alcohol esters (sodium
isostearoyl-2 lactylate, sodium capryl lactylate).
Typically, the oily component is a 3-6 carbon alcohol
ester of a fatty acid having at least 10 carbon atoms.
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
_ 5 _ z~~ss44
Preferably, the alcohol is a branched chain alcohol, most
preferably isopropanol. The preferred fatty acids are
selected from the group comprising, myristic, palmitic and
mixtures thereof,.
All the above-mentioned oils have a molecular weight below
4000. It is preferred to use oils with a molecular weight
below 2000, more preferably below 1000.
The most preferred moisturisers are isopropyl palmitate
and isopropyl myri.state.
Other examples of both types of moisturisers are disclosed
in "Emollients -- a Critical Evaluation," by J. Mausner,
Cosmetics & Toiletries, May 1981,
Anionic Surfactant
The anionic surfactant is the foaming surfactant and is an
essential component of the compositions of the present
invention.
Examples of the anionic detergents are salts (including
sodium, potassium,. ammonium and substituted ammonium
salts) such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts of 9
to 20 carbon alkylbenzenesulphonates, 8 to 22 carbon
primary or secondary alkanesulphonates, 8 to 24 carbon
olefinsulphonates, sulphonated polycarboxylic acids
prepared by sulphonation of the pyrolyzed product of
alkaline earth metal citrates, e.g., as described in
British Patent specification, 1,082,179, 8 to 22 carbon
alkylsulphates, 8 t.o 24 carbon alkylpolyglycol-ether-
sulphates, --carboxylates and -phosphates (containing up to
10 moles of ethylene oxide); further examples are
~I~E~TITI.~TE S~~ET
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
6 -
described in "Surface Active Agents and Detergents" (vol.
I and II) by Schwartz, Ferry and Bergh.
Preferred anionic surfactants are selected from; alkyl
ether sulphates, fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulphates, alkyl
sulphonates, isethionic acid derivatives and mixtures
thereof. One particularly preferred non-soap anionic is a
C8-C22 alkyl unsubstituted isethionate. These ester may be
prepared by the reaction between alkali metal isethionate
and mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 8 to 22
carbons. The most preferred anionic surfactants are the
alkyl ether sulphates due to the mildness of compositions
based on this component.
Preferred levels of anionic surfactant fall in the range
10-20~wt.
The anionic surfactant . oil ratio is preferably in the
range 1:1 to 20:1, more preferably 1:1 to 5:1.
First Nonionic Surfactant
The nonionic surfactant, having an HLB in the range 5-10
is an emulsifier for the oily component and it's presence
is essential for the performance of the invention.
Suitable nonionic surfactants include alcohol ethoxylates,
having an alkyl chain length and degree of ethoxylation
which exhibits an HLB in the specified range.
Preferred alcohol ethoxylates have a chain length of C10-
C16 and an ethoxylation value of 3-7. The higher chain
lengths, C12 and above are particularly preferred due to
the low levels of free alcohol in commercially available
materials.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975
PCT/EP93/03098
-
Preferred ratios of the components are such that the ratio
of the non-ionic emulsifier to t:he oil falls in the range
1:10 to 10:1.
In general terms ratios which comprise relatively lower
levels of emulsi:Eier form emulsions with larger drops,
these are generally opaque or cloudy. These emulsions,
having a ratio range of 1:10 to around 3:10 emulsifier: oil
show good deposition of the oil onto skin.
Higher levels of emulsifier lead, typically in
emulsifier: oil ratios above 3:10, to transparent
compositions. The exact changeover point from cloudy to
clear for any particular composition is dependent in part
on the content of electrolyte.
Transparent compositions are preferred.
Second Nonionic Surfa~rar,r
The fatty acid mo:noglyceride polyglycol ether is present
as a thickening surfactant and is the fourth essential
component of the compositions.
Fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol ethers are believed to
have the structurE=_:
~,-R-CO-O-CH~-CH . OH-CHZ-O- ( CHz-CH~-O ) ~-H
where R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group of
chain length 8-16 carbons, preferably around 12 carbons,
and n is 1-5, preferably around 3.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975 ~ PCT/EP93/03098
8
Electrolvtes
Generally, electrolyte will be present in the compositions
of the present invention at a level of up to about 4~wt.
Suitable electrolytes are alkali metal halides, preferably
sodium and potassium chlorides, other salts such as
sulphates can be employed although the above-mentioned
chlorides are preferred.
The presence of electrolyte, and the levels present, will
influence the viscosity of the product.
Viscosity ranges for the products according to the present
invention are 3000-12000, preferably 3000-7000 mPas at a
shear rate of one reciprocal second, typically measured
using a Haake (TM) rotary viscometer using the standard
method described in the operator manual.
Minors
Compositions of the present invention may comprise an
optional polymeric skin feel and mildness aid.
Polymeric skin feel and mildness aids useful in the
present invention are the cationic, anionic, amphoteric,
and the nonionic polymers used in the cosmetic field.
Reduced skin irritation benefits as measured by patch
testing of cationic and nonionic types of polymers are set
out in "Polymer JR for Skin Care" Bulletin, by Union
Carbide, 1977. The cationics are preferred over the
others because they provide better skin feel benefits.
The amount of polymeric skin feel and mildness aids found
useful in the composition of the present invention is from
about 0.01% to about 50.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
CA 02148944 2004-07-26
WO 94/10975 . PCT/EP93/03098
_ g _
Other types of high molecular weight polymeric skin feel
and skin mildness aids, such as nonionic guar gums,
Merquats (TM) 100 and 550, made by Merck & Co, Inc.;
JaguarTM C-14-S made by Stein Hall; Mirapol (TM) A15 made by
Miranol Chemical Company, Inc.; and Galactasol (TM) 811,
made by Henkel, Inc.; plus others, are usable. The
polymer also provides enhanced creamy lather benefits.
The nonionic polymers found to be useful include the
nonionic polysaccharides, e.g., nonionic hydroxypropyl
guar gums, offered by Celanese Corp. A preferred nonionic
hydroxypropyl guar gum material is JaguarTM HP-60 having
molar substitution of about 0.6. Another class of useful
nonionics is the cellulosic nonionic polymers, e.g., HEC
and CMC.
The cationic polymers employed in this invention also
provide a desirable silky, soft, smooth in-use feeling.
The preferred level for this invention is 0.1-5~ of the
composition. There is reason to believe that the
positively charged cationic polymers can bind with
negatively charges sites on the skin to provide a soft
skin feel after use. Not to be bound by any theory, it is
believed that the greater the charge density of the
cationic polymer, the more effective it is for skin feel
benefits.
Particularly preferred are JaguarTM or Polymer JR (TM)
present at levels of 0.01-3~wt on product.
Compositions of the present invention comprise 0-l0~wt of
a co-surfactant, preferably an amphoteric or zwitterionic
detergent. Examples of suitable co-surfactants are
N-alkylamine acids, betaines, sulphobetaines and
condensation products of fatty acids with protein
hydrolysates. The preferred co-surfactants are betaines.
PCT/EP93/03098
WO 94/10975 ~ ~ ~ ~ j~
- 10 -
Other inessential but typical components of the
compositions according to the present invention can be
selected from one or more of opacifiers, preferably 0.2-
2.O~wt; preservatives, preferably 0.2-2.O~wt and perfumes,
preferably 0.5-2.0 wto. Optional components include
colouring agents, germicides, conditioning agents,
humectants, anti-oxidants and preservatives.
Preferred compositions are stable, viscous, transparent,
aqueous shower-gel composition comprising:
a) 10-l5~wt of an anionic surfactant,
b) 5-l0owt of an oily component,
c) 1-5~wt of a fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol
ether,
d) 1-5~wt of at least one nonionic surfactant having a
HLB between 5 and 10,
e) 1-4owt electrolyte, and,
f) 0.01-l0 of a cationic polymer.
Particularly preferred embodiments of the invention
comprise:
a) 10-15%wt of an ethoxyl.ated anionic surfactant,
b) 5-10%wt of a 3-6 carbon alcohol ester of a fatty acid
having 10-20 carbon atoms,
c) 1-5%wt of a C8-C16 fatty acid monoglyceride
polyglycol ether with an ethoxylation value of 1-5,
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
-11- 2148944
d) 1-5~wt of an alcohol ethoxylate having a chain length
of C10-C16 and an ethoxylation value of 3-7,
e) 1-4~wt electrolyte, and,
f) 0.01-1~ of a cationic polymer,
said composition being in the form of a clear, aqueous gel
having a viscosity of 3000-7000 mPas at a shear rate of
one reciprocal second, measured using a Haake rotary
viscometer using the standard method.
In order that the present invention may be further
understood it wil.1 be described hereafter with reference
to the following examples:
EXAMPLES
The following materials are used in the examples:
SLES: Genapol ZRO (RTM ex. Hoechst) anionic
surfactant.
NONI: Rewc>derm LIS 75 or LIS 80 (RTM ex. Rewo),
fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol ether.
POLY: Carbopol 980/981 (RTM ex. Goodrich) a
poiyacryate; thickening polymer.
EMUL: Genapol UD-030 (RTM ex. Hoechst) alcohol
ethoxylates have a chain length of C11, an
ethoxylation value of 3 and a HLB of 8.
suE~s i ~T~ ~ ~~-ic~T
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
- 12
BRIJ: BRIJ-58 (RTM ex. Atlas) alcohol ethoxylates
have a chain length of C16, an ethoxylation
value of 20 and a HLB above 10.
IPP: Isopropyl palmitate (ex. Unichema).
JAG: Jaguar-C13S (ex. Mayhall), cationic polymer
based on guar gum.
Salt: Sodium Chloride.
Pres: Sorbic acid (ex Hayes) and trisodium
citrate (ex BDH), as preservative at an
effective level.
Perl: Ethylene glycol mono-stearate (ex Albright
and Wilson) as pearlescer.
Perf: Commercially available toiletry perfume.
Compositions according to the present invention and
comparative examples were prepared according to the
following procedure:
The oily component was combined with the nonionic
surfactant emulsifier, under shear at 40°C. Water was
slowly added to form an emulsion and the anionic
surfactant combined with the emulsion, this method gives a
fine emulsion. The salt and the thickening surfactant
were added sequentially. Where EGMS was used the process
was performed at a higher temperature (60°C) and the EGMS
added in the first stage. Preservative was added to the
hot mixture, which was cooled before addition of the
perfume, still under shear.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
-13- 2148944
Stability of the compositions was assessed both at a
temperature of 20 (room temperature) and 37 (body
temperature) Celci.us, in terms of the storage time before
visible phase separation occurred. Compositions which are
stable for at least three months under the conditions
specified are considered to be sufficiently stable.
All figures age given in wt~ on product unless otherwise
specified.
Table 1 below shows examples of embodiments of the present
invention. The figures given at S-20 and S-37 are the
storage stabilities as mentioned above. The viscosity
(vise) was measured at a shear rate of one reciprocal
second and is expressed in Pascals.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975 ~ ~ ~~ ~ ~ ~ PCT/EP93/03098
-14-
I
I M
rl M M N O I d' I N rl I M M
I ~ n n
I
I
I
~ I
(~ I N
O M N O I M I N rl I O M M
r-1rl M rl I
I
I
I
I
Q1 M M M O I M (~N rl I C~ M M
1 n n
rl O I
I
I
I
00 M M d' O I M C~N ~-II M M
c--I '--1 I c--i/~ /~
p I rl
I
I
~ M M M O I M (~N rl I O M M
~
[ ,_I . r-i/
O I
w I
a~ o
l0 M M M O I N L~N r-I...~N M M
~ n n
o a.
w ~
I
I
H LI1N d~N II1c-1M C~I rl ~ I LC11
I
O O I
I
I
I
d' N N N O rl M I~I rl ~ I tD I
,~ . . I
M O O I
I
I
M lfl N M O rl N L~I r-II I LO I
I
r1 rl I
O O I
I
I
N N M M LIlrl M (~I r-II I M I
I
I
O O I
I
I
rl N M M LflI M L~I rl I I ~D 1
I
I n
O I
N
z
w
z
0
p, C!) H ,.a 1.JU1.-~W ~ U O C~
,~F", W Z f~ C7 ~I N ~-I~-t1.) cn N M
r-l ~ ~ A.i~, (TS~-I~ Q7 fi3 -r-II 1
v cn z m --I~ ~n c~a, w 3 ~ v~ cn
,n o ,_n O
--I ,-I N
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/10975 PCT/EP93/03098
-15- 2148944
Certain of the compositions (for example formulation 3)
given in the above-mentioned table are transparent.
Table 2 below shows comparative examples which did not
exhibit the required stability. The figures given at S-20
and S-37 are the storage stabilities as mentioned above.
The viscosity ('vi.sc') was measured at a shear rate of one
reciprocal second. and is expressed in Pascals. The
stability periods are indicated in hours or days. In some
circumstances the products became unstable after a few
hours while the experimenter was absent and the
approximation 'hrs' has been used. In some examples, a
polymer ha~> been used as an alternative to the thickening
surfactant. In other examples, a nonionic with a
different HLB level has been used instead of the
emulsifying nonionic.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
WO 94/1097 ~ ~ ~ (?~ 4 ~ PCT/EP93/03098
-16-
I
N ~ 1
N N M t11I tf1M I d~ O
rl ri O O N ~--iI I .-i
1
I
I
ri M N I I N O d~ I~ I I '~ U1
N rl I ~D f-.1
rl O I
I
_. I
I
I 'C3f!~
O M M I I N O d' O N r-iI I l0 ~I
I
I
I
I
I
M M I M I O rl O N ~ I I '~ ~I
I
I
I
I
a I
I .~ ~,
f.>rM M I V~I O ~ O N rl p I ~O S-i
00 C--I ~-i do
O
O
('
N ~ ~ M M I N I O N O N c-1~ rl GO 00
I
I
a w I
I
H V I
I
!~ M rl I N I O N O N ~ I I
rl ~ N N
I
I
I
I
I
M N I N I O M O N rl I Lf1N
M rl rl I
I
I
I
I (n
t~ M N I N I O N O N rl I I ~I O
N ri H I
I
I
I
(' I
I
I
~I,'M N I N I O N O c-Irl I I ~I O
-.I ,-- p i I
H
z
W
z
0 Cn H ?~ ~l~ 1-~U) r1w ~ U O l~
W
w z ~ H ~ r-,~ ~ ~I ~ cn N M
o a o o ~ rx a, ~ s~ v a~ ~ .~ I I
v ~n z a~ w m H v~ a~ w a~ 3 >
o ~, o
ri r-I N
SUBSTITUTE SHEET
