Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
~0 95/04517 2 1 6 8 ~ ~ 2 PCTIUS94/08615
COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and more
particularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions and
concealers having anti-acne activity and formulation and colour stability.
Back~round of the Invention
A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of the
body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, illlpelrections, fine
lines and the like. A foundation composition is also applied to moisturize
the skin, to b~l~nGe the oil level of the skin and to provide protection
~g~inst the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harsh environment.
Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or
cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil
and wax compositions.
US Patent No. 3,444,291 discloses a method of filling and camo~lfl~ing
skin cavities by applying a composition which includes 65 to 75 parts by
weight of a microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of a mineral
oil. The composition includes a colourant, preferably a coal tar dye, for
example, D &C Red No. 17, which matches the colour of the user's skin.
A spreadable, flowable and greaseless cosmetic cover-up composition is
taught in US Patent No 4,486,405. That composition is characterized by
wo 95/04517 216 8 8 ~ 2 PCT/US94/0861
the presence of a first and a second alkoxylated surfactant present in
substantially the same concentration.
US Patent No. 4,804,532 recites a facial cosmetic powder which utilizes
crystalline silica in much lower concentration than that employed in the
then prior art compositions. This powder, used as a blush or a facial
coating, is said to be effective in hiding skin wrinkles, lines and pores.
The composition is a mixture of a colour phase and a diluent phase. The
colour phase is formed by blending crystalline silica with colourants. The
resultant colour phase is mixed with the diluent phase, essentially formed
from nacreous materials such as talc and mica, to form the composition.
The use of a foundation composition which has a significantly high
concentration of nacreous material is taught in US Patent No. 3,978,207.
This foundation, a pressed powder composition, is characterized by the
presence of a nacreous material such as mica and a binder oil which
provides a frosted pearl effect, that is, a lustrous look. The colour of this
foundation is provided by the nacreous material.
US Patent No. 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition
which includes, as a binding agent therefore, an intim~te mixture of from
5 to 95 weight percent of a mixture of finely divided silica and about 5 to
95 weight percent of finely divided polyethylene fibres. The composition
is recited to m~int~in its uniformity over the areas of the skin to which it
is applied. That is, it is said to be "creaseproof". The composition of the
'562 patent includes colourant in admixture with nacreous agents.
N~k~mllra et al., Preprints of the XIVth I.P.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona,
1986, Vol. I, 51-63 (1986) describes a novel make-up composition
utili~ing spherical silica and poly~imethyl siloxane. This combination is
recited to provide a foundation which reduces wrinkle visibility to a
greater extent than make-up foundations with which it was compared.
This reduction in wrinkle visibility is c~lsed by optical blurring enhanced
by the novel use of spherical silica and polydimethyl siloxane.
US Patent No. 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition
comprising water-in-oil emulsions comprising pigment coated with
CA 02168842 1999-04-01
polysiloxane, a silcone phase, a water phase and a polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene
copolymeric surfactant.
Foundations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are well known and provide good coverage and
good skin feel, wear and appearance. At the sarne time, it would be desirable to provide a
foundation composition having topical anti-acne activity. There are many compounds which are
known to exhibit anti-acne properties when applie!d topically to the skin. A cor"l"only used
keratolytic agent having anti-acne activity is salicylic acid. As salicylic acid is virtually insoluble in
water it is diffficult to incorporate into the aqueous phase of an emulsion composition. Delivery of
salicylic acid from the pigment-containing oil phase of an emulsion foundation composition can,
however, lead to discoluration of the co",posilion due to interaction between the salicylic acid and
pigments, especially of the iron oxide type. It woulcl therefore be desirable to deliver the salicylic
acid in soluble form from the aqueous phase.
Polyvinylpyrrolidone is known for use as a solubilizing/col"~'-.xing agent in a variety of
compositions.
GB-A-2,041,963 dis~,loses an aqueous detergent composition for cleansing oily skin con,pri~i"g a
water-soluble salt of an N-acyl ester of sarcosine, a polyvinylpyrrolidone cosolubilizer and a
protein and/or protein hydrolysate. The con,position can also contain salicylic acid as a keratolytic
agent and a buffer such as citric acid/citrate. There is no disclosure, however, of cos",etic
compositions containing solubilized acidic anti-acne actives in fully protonated form as specified
herein.
Since acidic anti-acne agents are most active at low pH (when a high concentration of free acid is
present in solution) it would be desirable to deliver the agent from an aqueous phase at a pH at
which it exists significantly in p,otondlc3d form. It is accordingly a primary aspect of this invention
to provide a cosmetic composition c,or"~risi"g a low pH aqueous solution of an anti-acne active.
It is also an aspect of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition having improved anti-acne
activity and stability.
CA 02168842 1999-04-01
It is a further aspect of the invention to provide a cos~"etic composition in the form of an oil-in-
water or water-in-oil emulsion having improved colour stability and pigmenVanti-acne active
co" ,p~"~ 'ity.
SummarV of the Invention
In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition
in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion comprising an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-
acne active and a pyrrolidone-based comFI~ xirlg agent therefor, and wherein theaqueous/alcoholic solution has a pH of less than about PKa + 1, where PKa is the logarithmic
acidity constant for the fully protonated anti-acne active.
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide anti-acne efficacy together with
improved product and colour stability.
According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a make-up composition in
the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion cornprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in
the aqueous phase and a pigment or mixture of pi~menl~ dispersed in the oil phase.
All levels and ratios are by weight of total con,position, unless otherwise indicated. Chain length
and degrees of alkoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.
Detailed DescriPtion of the Invention
The cosmetic COI I ~posilion according to one aspect of the present invention comprises an
aqueouc/alcoholic solution of an acidic anti-acne active and a pyrrolidone-based complexing
agent. The col"posilion is in the form of an emulsion, gel or lotion.
-~ 95/04S17 88~,~ PCT/US94/08615
According to this first aspect of the present invention a first essential
component is an aqueous/alcoholic solution of an anti-acne active.
Suitable anti-acne actives for use herein include salicylic acid, retinoic
acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid and its derivatives, lactic acid,
glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof.
The anti-acne active used in the composition herein is preferably selected
from salicylic acid and azelaic acid, and mixtures thereof, more
preferably salicyclic acid. The anti-acne active is present at a level of
from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%,
more preferably from about 0.5 % to about 3 %, by weight of composition.
The anti-acne active is solubilized in water or an alcoholic solution, for
example, solutions based upon C2-C6 alcohols, diols and polyols,
preferred alcohols being selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol,
butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Alcohol is
preferably present in the compositions herein at a level of from about 1%
to about 20%. The final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution
preferably has a pH at ambient temperature (25~C) of less than about pKa
+ 1, where pKa is the logarithmic acidity constant for the fully
protonated anti-acne active. In preferred embodiments, the pH of the
final solution is less than about pKa~
The logarithmic acidity constant is thus defined by reference to the
equilibrium
H+ + Hn-lA = HnA
where HnA is the fully protonated acid, n is the number of protons in the
fully protonated acid and Hn 1 A is the conjugate base of the acid
corresponding to loss of one proton.
wo 95/04517 ?,~6~ PCT/US94/0861'-
The acidity constant for this equilibrium is therefore
Kn = [HnA]
[H+] [Hn-1A]
and pKa = logloKn
For the purposes of this specification, acidity con~t~nts are defined- at
25~C and at zero ionic strength. Literature values are taken where
possible (see Stability Constants of Metal-Ion Complexes, Special
Publication No. 25, The Chemical Society, London); where doubt arises
they are determined by potentiometric titration using a glass electrode.
The pKa of the acidic anti-acne active used herein is preferably in the
range of from about 1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about
4.5, especially from about 1.5 to about 4Ø
The pH of the final aqueous/alcoholic anti-acne active solution is
preferably in the range of from about 1 to about 7, more preferably from
about 2 to about 5, especially from about 2 to about 4. At pH values of
less than about 5 the aqueous phase is preferably free of acid labile
species such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and
polyglycerylmethacrylate .
A second essential component of the compositions of the first aspect of
the present invention is a pyrrolidone-based complexing agent.
The pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is useful herein from the
viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. The
pyrrolidone-based complexing agent used herein is preferably selected
from polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agents or C1-C4 alkyl
polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agents having a molecular weight
(viscosity average) in the range from about 1500 to about 1,500,000,
preferably from about 3000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about
5000 to about 100,000. Suitable examples of pyrrolidone-based
complexing agents are polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) (or povidone) and
~6g
~o 95/04517 ( ~ ~ ~ PCT/US94/08615
butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone. The most preferred pyrrolidone-based
complexing agent herein is a polyvinylpyrrolidone complexing agent.
PVP is commercially available under the trade name Luviskol (RTM)
from BASF. A preferred PVP complexing agent herein is Luviskol K17
which has a viscosity-average molecular weight of about 9,000. Other
pyrrolidone-based complexing agents for use herein include C1-C1g alkyl
or hydroxyalkyl pyrrolidones such as lauryl pyrrolidone.
The pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is present in the composition
herein in a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about
0.1 % to about 5 % by weight of composition. The weight ratio of anti-
acne active: pyrrolidone-based complexing agent is in the range from
about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5.
Preferred embodiments of the invention additionally comprise from about
0.01% to about 5% by weight of an acid or salt thereof which is soluble
in water at pH values of less than or equal to the pKa of the
corresponding acid, for example, an acid selected from citric acid, boric
acid, and salts, and mixtures thereof. These materials are valuable herein
in combination with the pyrrolidone-based complexing agent from the
viewpoint of aiding solubilization of the anti-acne active. Particularly
preferred herein from this viewpoint is a sodium salt of citric acid. In
~refelled embo~liments~ the acid or salt thereof is soluble to a level of at
least 5% w/w at 25~C.
The composition of the present invention can be in emulsion (w/o or
o/w), gel or lotion form but is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion, wherein in prefer~ed embo~liment~ the oil phase comprises a
mixture of volatile silicones and non-volatile silicones. The silicone oil is
present in an amount of from about 1% to about 50% by weight. Suitable
volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosiloxanes
(as used herein, "volatile" refers to those materials which have a
measurable vapour pressure at ambient conditions).
A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et al..
"Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-
32 (1976).
WO 95/04517 , PCT/US94/0861
~,~6~
Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes cont~inin~ from
about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably cont~ining from about 4 to
about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linear silicone oils include the
polydimethylsiloxanes cont~ining from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms.
The linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5
centistokes at 25~C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less
than about 10 centistokes. Examples of silicone oils useful in the present
invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow
Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning
Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (m~nllf~ctured by the
Union Carbide Corporation). SF:202 (manufactured by General Electric)
and SWS-03314 (m~m)f~ctured by Stauffer Chemical).
Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of
from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mm2.s~1 at 25~C. more preferably
from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mm2.s~1, even more preferably
from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mm2.s~1. Lower viscosity non-
volatile silicone conditioning agents, however, can also be used.
Viscosity can be me~sllred by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set
forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
Suitable non-volatile silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl
siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polysiloxanes with
amino functional substitutions, polyether siloxane copolymers, and
mixtures thereof. The siloxanes useful in the present invention may be
en-lc~pped with any number of moieties, including, for example, methyl,
hydroxyl, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, amino and carboxyl.
However, other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties may be
used. The non-volatile polyalkyl siloxane fluids that may be used include,
for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for
example, from the General Electric Company as a Viscasil (RTM) series
and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Preferably, the
viscosity ranges from about 10 mm2.s~l to about 100,000 mm2.S~1 at
25~C. The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include,
for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available,
for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl
phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The
O 95/04517 6(~ 2 PCT/US94/08615
polyether siloxane copolymer that may be used includes, for example, a
polypropylene oxide modifled dimethylpolysiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning
DC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and
propylene oxide may also be used.
References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include US-A-2,826,551,
Green; US-A-3,964,500, Drakoff, issued June 22nd, 1976; US-A-
4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-849,433, Woolston. In addition, Silicone
Compounds distributed by Petrarch Systems Inc., 1984 provides an
extensive (though not exclusive) listing of suitable silicone fluids.
Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein include
polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers cont~ininp at least one
polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment,
said polydiorganosiloxane segment consisting essentially of
RbSiO(4-b)/2
siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about 0 to about 3, inclusive,
there being an average value of approximately 2 R radicals per silicQn for
all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from
methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said
polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, at least
about 95% of all R radicals being methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene
segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and
con~istin~ of from about 0 to about 50 mol percent polyoxypropylene
units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent polyoxyethylene units,
at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment being
bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment, any terminal portion of
said polyoxyalkylene segment not bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane
segment being satisfied by a termin~tinp radical; the weight ratio of
polydiorganosiloxane se~ment~ to polyoxyalkylene segments in said
copolymer having a value of from about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are
described in US-A-4,268,499.
~, ~ 6 ~ ~
WO 95/04S17 PCT/US94/086L
More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene
copolymers having the general formula:
IH3 IH3 fH3 IH3
H3C - 5i 0 (5i ~)x (si o)y Si CH3
CH3 CH3 C3H6 CH3
o - (~ H40)a(C3H6~)bR
wherein x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of
polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxalkylene segments is from about
2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R
is a chain termin~tin group, especially selected from hydrogen;
hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such
as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy;
aryloxy, such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy;
acyloxy, such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionoxy and amino, such as
dimethylamino.
The number of and average molecular weights of the sePments in the
copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane
segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably
from about 2.5 to about 4Ø
Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames
Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach
D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd,. Tego
House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL. Particularly
preferred for use herein are Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183 and
DC3225C. A preferred silicone herein is known by its CTFA designation
as dimethicone copolyol.
'~ 95/04S17 ~ 68~ PCT/US94/0861
11
The silicone oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 25%,more preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight of composition
of non-volatile silicones.
A highly preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant
or mixture of humectants. The humectant or mixture of humectants
herein is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30%
preferably from about 5 % to about 25 %, and more preferably from about
10% to about 20% by weight of composition. Suitable humectants are
selected from glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a
viscosity at 25~C of 300,000 to 1,100,000 cps; a specific gravity at 25~C
of 1 to 1.2g/ml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%;
and, a free water content from 5 to 20%.
The humectant can be incorporated at least partly into the oil phase of the
water-in-oil emulsion so as to form a multiphase humectant-in-oil-in-water
dispersion. The oil phase preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about
10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3% by weight of
hllmectant on a composition basis. The hllmect~nt can be introduced into
the oil phase in the form of a mixture with or incorporated within a
particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material.
Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are
marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark
"Lubrajel". The "Lubrajels" identified as "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel
MS", and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The
gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about 1% propylene
glycol.
Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol,
butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alkoxylated glucose derivatives, such as
Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mixtures
thereof. Urea is also suitably added as a humectant in the internal
aqueous phase.
WO 95/04517 PCT/US94/08615
4'~ 12
The panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-
dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol,
calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl
ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex.
The preferred humectant herein is glycerine. Chemically, glycerine is
1,2,3-propanetriol and is a product of commerce.
Preferred embo~lime-nts herein comprise a pigment or mixture of
pigments. Suitable pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or
organic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a
low colour or lustre such as matte finishin~ agents, and also light
scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigmentc are iron oxides,
acylgl~1t~m~te iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and
mixtures thereof. Depending upon the type of make-up composition, eg.
foundation or blusher, a mixture of pigments will normally be used.
It is a feature of the composition herein that the pigment and anti-acne
active have excellent overall comp~t~bility and colour stability. Thus
according to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a
make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water
emulsion comprising an acidic anti-acne active dissolved in the aqueous
phase and a pigment or mixture of pigments dispersed in the oil phase.
The foundation composition can also include at least one matte finishin~
agent. The function of the matte fini~hin~ agent is to hide skin defects
and reduce shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents, i.e.,
those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed.,
as silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc,
polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk,
diatomaceous earth, attapulgite zinc oxide and the like may be l.tili7e~l.
Of particular usefulness as a matte fini~hing agent is low lustre pigment
such as tit~n~ted mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide) coated with
barium sulfate. Of the inorganic components useful as a matte finishing
agent low lustre piPnlenlt~ talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin,
titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
Materials suitable for use herein as light-scattering agents can be
o 95/04517 8~ ~ PCT/US94/0861~
generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a
particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about S to about
S0 microns, for example spherical silica particles.
The total concentration of the pigment may be from about 0.1 to about
25% by weight and is preferably from about 1 to about 10% by weight of
the total composition, the exact concentration being dependent to some
extent upon the specific mixture of pigments selected for use in a
foundation make-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades. The
preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of
titanium dioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by
weight of titanium dioxide.
The preferred pigm~nts for use herein from the viewpoint of
moisturisation, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are
treated pigments. The pipments can be treated with compounds such as
amino acids such as lysine, silicones, lauroyl, collagen, polyethylene,
lecithin and ester oils. The more preferred pigments are the silicone
(polysiloxane) treated pigments.
The balance of the composition of the present invention is deionized
water. The composition preferably comprises from about 30% to about
95%, more preferably from about 40% to about 80% by weight of the oil
phase, and from about 5% to about 70%, more preferably from about
20% to about 60% by weight of the water phase.
The make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise a
particulate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or meth~crylate copolymer.
This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling
oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits. The cross-
linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer
lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout
and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the
hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a
surface area (N2-BET) in the range from about S0 to S00, preferably 100
to 300m2/g and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.
. .
WO 95/04517 ?,~ 63~ PCT/US94/0861
14
The cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount
of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably
incorporated in the external silicone-cont~ining oil phase. The active
ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin
compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens.
The polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a
combined system of particles. The system of powder particles forms a
lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in
average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the
range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of
clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200
microns in average diameter.
The powder material of the present invention which can be employed as
the carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross-
linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice. The powder
preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in
the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in particulate form and
constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the
active material. The lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the
active material. The polymer has the structural formula:
'O 95/04517 2 ~ 6~ PCT/US94/08615
fH3 fH3
CH2 C C CH2
C=O C=O
O O
R' R' '
o
I
C=O
I
CH C
I
CH3 X
where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R' is -CH2CH2- and R" is -
(CH2)1 1CH3-
The hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more
particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer. The
material is m~nllf~ct~red by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland.
Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM) . It
is an ultralight free-flowing white powder and the particles are capable of
absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids
while at the same time m~int~ining a free-flowing powder character. The
powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron
that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the
agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of
about 200 to about 1200 micron size. The polymer powder is capable of
cont~inin~ as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions,
dispersions or melted solids.
wo 95/04S17 ~ o PCT/USg4108615
16
Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished
using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is
added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into
the polymer powder. Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition
of the fluids to a sealable vessel cont~ining the polymer and then tumbling
the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending
equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed.
The preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably,
the weight ratio of humectant: carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.
Also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer is
Microsponges 5647. This takes the form of generally spherical particles
of cross-linked hydrophobic polymer having a pore size of from about
0.01 to about O.O5,-m and a surface area of 200-300m2/g. Again, it is
preferably loaded with hllmectant in the levels described above.
The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling
agent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more
preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about
0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1%
aqueous solution, 20~C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s,
more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000
mPa.s.
Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-
soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers
(e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl
cellulose), polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum,
hydroxypropyl guar gum and x~nth~n gum.
Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich
Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist
esse~ti~lly of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked
polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a
crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl
pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol
o 95/04~17 6~ PCT/US94/08615
950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a
water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a
polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for
each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-
modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic
properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol
1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether
cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-
linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Other suitable
gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such as
trihydroxystearin and aluminium magnesium hydroxy stearate. The
gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellent
stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
Neutr~1i7in~ agents suitable for use in neutr~li7inp: acidic group cont~ining
hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium
hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanol~mine, diethanol~mine and
triethanol~mine.
The make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient.
Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include
natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and ~nim~l
oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and
polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
Suitable emollients for use herein include, for example, optionally
hydroxy-substituted Cg-Cso l)nc~ rated fatty acids and esters thereof,
C1-C24 esters of Cg-C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl
myristate, cetyl p~lmit~te and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142),
beeswax, saturated and l~ns~rated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol
and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and
squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-3988255, Seiden, issued
October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol
ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and
derivatives thereof, ~nim~l and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil,
peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linceer~ oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits,
wo 95/04517 ~'~63 PCT/US94/0861.
18
walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn
oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado
oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and
sunflower seed oil and C 1 C24 esters of dimer and trimer acids such as
diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearylm~l~te, diisostearyldimerate and
triisostearyltrimerate .
Preferred emollients are selected from hydrocarbons such as
isohexadecane, mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, lanolin alcohol,
and stearyl alcohol. These emollients may be used independently or in
mixtures and may be present in the composition of the present invention
in an amount from about 1% to about 30% by weight, and preferably are
present in an amount from about 5% to about 15% by weight of the total
compositlon.
The composition may also contain additional materials such as, for
example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives,
electrolytes such as sodium chloride, proteins, antioxidants, chelating
agents and water-in-oil emlllsifiers as appropliate.
Another optional component of the make-up composition is one or more
ultraviolet absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often
described as sunscreening agents, can be present in a concentratio~ in the
range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on the total
weight of composition. Preferably, the UV absorbing agents con.ct~ te
between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV
absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration
range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight. Of the ultraviolet
absorbing agents suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl
PABA (P~im~te O) and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
Another optional but preferred component herein is one or more
additional chelating agents, preferably in the range of from about 0.02%
to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
r~eferably, the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range
of between about 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total
21 6~8~
,'0 95/04517 PCT/US94/08615
weight of the composition. Among the chelating agents that may be
included in the composition is tetrasodium EDTA.
Another optional but preferred component of the foundation composition
is one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in the
foundation composition, based on the total weight of that composition, is
in the range of between about 0.05% and about 0.8% by weight,
preferably between about 0.1 % and about 0.3 % by weight. Suitable
preservatives for use herein include sodium benzoate and propyl paraben,
and mixtures thereof.
The make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form of
foundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, and the like,
preferably as foundations and concealers.
~ . .. . . .... .. .. . . . .
WO 95/04517 '~C~ PCT/US94/0861.
The following Table is provided to illustrate compositions of the make-up
of the present invention:
Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % % % % %
A.
Cetyloctanoate 2.00 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0
Cyclomethicone 8.57 12.25 12.25 15.0 12.0 8.57 8.57
Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone
copolyol (90:10) 17.16 20.0 20.0 5.0 8.0 10.0 17.16
Propylparaben 0.75 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.0 0.75 0.75
(33%) in
laureth-7
Dimethicone 2.0 0.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 0.0
Fluid
Benzophenene-3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0
Propylene glycol
Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 10.0 0.0
Titanium Dioxide 8.25 6.0 1.5 6.0 8.0 20.0 8.25
Titanium Dioxide
treated
(Aluminium
hydrate, stearic
acid) 0.25 0.5 3.0 0.25 0.25 0.0 0.25
Tit~n~ted Micas 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 1.0 0.0 0.1
Talc 3.38 4.5 6.0 0.7 0.7 0.7 3.38
Silica 0.6 4.25 6.0 4.25 0.6 0.6 0.6
Nylon 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0-0
0 gS/04517 ~ 6~ PCT/US94/08615
Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % % % % %
C.
Cyclomethicone/
dimethicone
copolyol (90:10) 1.85 1.5 1.85 5.0 1.0 1.0 1.85
D.
Yellow Iron
Oxide 1.2 1.2 0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2
Red Iron Oxide 0.49 0.6 0.6 0.49 0.49 0.2 0.6
Black Iron Oxide 0.16 0.1 0.24 0.1 0.1 0.24 0.24
Ultramarine Blue 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0
Cyclomethicone 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.68 0.0 0.0
Synthetic Wax 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0
Arachidyl
be.hen~te 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.3
Stearic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5
Palmitic Acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.5 0.0
Silica (spheron 6.0 0.0 6.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
P1500)
Trihydroxy- 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 0.0 0.0 0.0
stearin
Cyclomethicone 1.0 4.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Beeswax 1.5 1.2 0.0 0.0 1.3 0.0 0.0
AbilWED9 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
WO 95/04517 ' Q~ PCT/US94/0861.
22
Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % % % %
G.
Ethylene O.OS 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.05 0.05
brassylate
BHT 0.05 0.0 0.0 00 00 005 005
H.
Deionized water ------- ------- -----to 100-- - ---- --- -- -------
Ethanol 6 5.5 4.0 7 6.0 8.0 6.0
Salicylic acid 1 1 1 2 2 2 0.0
Azeleic acid 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 5
Propyleneglycol 2.37 2.37 1.37 2.37 0.0 2.37 0.0
Dipropylene 6.0 5.0 6.5 7.00 8.0 6.0 5.0
glycol
Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0
Glycerine 4.5 5.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 15.0
Tetrasodium 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.01
EDTA
Triethanol~mine 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.75
Allantoin 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
sunscreen 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.2 0.0 0.0
polyvinylpyrrolid- 1 2 1.5 1 1 1 2
-one (Luviskol
K17)
Sodium citrate 0.3 0.3 0.0 0.2 0.4 0.3 0.4
Sodium 0.0 0.0 O. 1 0.4 0.0 0.2 0.0
Tetraborate
pH of aqueous 2.9 2.8 2.9 3.2 3.0 2.9 3.1
phase
Deionized Water 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0
,ro 95104517 2 i 6 8 8 ~ 2 PCT/US94/08615
Example I II III IV V VI VII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % % % % %
J.
Propylene Glycol 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
X~nth~n Gum 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.08 0.0 0.0 0.0
Essential Oils 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0
PerfumeOil 0.0 0.25 0.0 0.20 0.0 0.0 0.0
Vitamin A
Palmitate 0.0 0.05 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
AloeVeraGel 0.0 0.0 3.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Chamomile
Extract 0.0 0.0 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
* Contains about 1% propylene glycol.
The various components listed in the Table have been segregated into
groups, the conctitl)erlts of each group being mixed together before being
added to members of the rem~ining groups in accordance with the
procedures set forth below.
In the first step, the mixture of components of phase A is stirred for
approximately 5 mim)tec with sheer mixing until homogeneous. With
high speed sheer mixing, the materials of phase B are added gradually to
A and the batch is mixed for 20 minutes until dispersed.
The components of phase C and then phase D are slowly added to the
mixture of phases A and B with high shear mixing until dispersed. Silica
is added at this point and dispersed through the mixture.
. . .
WO 95/04517 ~ ) PCT/US94/0861:
24
The resulting batch heated to 90~C before the addition of the components
of phase E. The vessel is cooled to 55~C and the premixed phase F is
added. The batch is mixed until homogeneous. The mixture is cooled to
30~C and phase G is added.
A premix of phase H is made by mixing all the components until
completely dissolved. At 30~C the premix of phase H is added to the
batch mixture with high shear, ensuring that there is no excess water on
the surface. The mixture is then milled for 15 minutes.
Finally phases I, J, K, and L are added as diluent.
The resulting make-up composition is ready for pacl~ing.
The make-up compositions of the Examples exhibit anti-acne activity andimproved formulation and colour stability.
