Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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NONIONIC FOAMING AGENT
FOR FOAMING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a foaming agent comprising at least
a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene type of nonionic surfactant
which has a total HLB by Griffin method of at least 12, which provides clear
and stable concentrates and voluminous and stable foaming, and smooth
and mild touch to foaming cosmetic compositions, with improved less
flaking tendency. In particular, the present invention relates to leave-on
hair mousse products comprising this foaming agent.
BACKGROUND
Cosmetic compositions such as shaving creams, hair mousses,
spray foams, foaming lotions and foaming creams are aimed to be
dispensed or sprayed as foams and applied on the human skin or hair.
These products are described in the present invention as "leave-on foaming
cosmetic products". One common characteristic desired for these leave-on
foaming cosmetic products is a foam having favorable characteristics to the
consumer such as voluminous and stable foaming, with smooth and mild
touch to the skin and hair.
Leave-on foaming cosmetic compositions for hair are usually referred
to as "mousses", which term will be used in the present invention. Hair
mousses were born in Europe in the early 1 980s. Hair mousses are
fundamentally an aerosol foam, however, non-aerosol foams are also
known. The general appeal of hair mousses can be largely attributed to the
ease of application and controlled amount of product which are possible
from mousse formulations. Hair mousse compositions are generally
dispensed by a cor"pressible dispenser or a valve and applied to the user's
hand or a specifically designed comb and spread through the hair.
Alternatively, hair mousse compositions can be directly applied to the hair
by dispensing through nozles. Hair mousses are formulated for the
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purpose of styling, setting, and arranging, or for other purposes such as
shampooing, conditioning, treating, dyeing, and combinations thereof.
In recent years, some consumers have expressed a desire to have
"alcohol-free" hair mousse products bec~ Ise of concerns relating to drying
of the hair, or concer"s of volatile solvents being emitted to the
environment. In this context, alcohol refers to volatile primary alcohols
having about 1 to 6 carbons, particularly ethanol. Alcohol is used in
mousses for a number of reasons. First, the presence of volatile alcohol
can aid styling by decreasing drying time. However, it is assumed that this
drying has raised the concerns of some consumers that alcohol is also
drying hair. Second, alcohol aids foam breakage as the mousse is spread
throughout the hair. It is known that foam breakage is a result of the ability
of alcohol to act as a defoaming agent. Third, alcohol itself improves
product preservation. Fourth, alcohol enhances the compatibility of the
concentrate with the propellant, and acts as a solubility bridge between the
resin and the water base. Fifth, alcohol is a good solvent for dissolving oil
base ingredients such as conditioning fatty alcohols. Consequently,
elimination of alcohol from the formulation may affect product performance.
Thus, there is a desire to provide a foaming agent which can be used in hair
mousse compositions with or without alcohol.
The species and level of preservatives are also known to affect
product performance. Preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin (dimethylol
dimethyl hydantoin) and Kathon CG (mixture of methylchloro-
isothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone) are known as effective
preservatives at low levels, however, are not approved for use in leave-on
cosmetic products in a number of countries. Phenoxyethanol and EDTA are
widely accepted for use, however, are not sati~ra~orily effective at low
levels. Parabens such as methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben,
and LiquaPar oil (mixture of isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, and butyl
paraben) are also widely accepted for use. However, because parabens
are lipophilic, they cannot dissolve in water, and thus have some
formulation consl,ainls. Methyl paraben and propyl paraben are difficult to
formulate at high levels, for they are solid at room temperature. Thus, there
is also a desire to provide a foaming agent which can be used in hair
mousse compositions in combination with a wide range of preservatives.
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The type of propellants are also known to affect product
performance. It is known that fluorohyd,ocalL,ons such as difluoroethane
152a (supplied by DuPont) can be used for a wide range of formulations.
Propane and dimethyl ether can also be used for a wide range of
formulations. However, propane is relatively combustible. Dimethyl ether
when used at high levels can be corrosive. LPG (liquefied petroleum gas)
is a mixture of mainly iso-butane, n-butane, and propane, and is available in
different pressure grades. LPG is a relatively safe propellant, however,
have some formulation constraints. Thus, there is also a desire to provide a
foaming agent which can be used in hair mousse compositions in
combination with a wide range of propellants.
Evaluation of product performance for hair mousse compositions
vary depending on the purpose and concept of the product. In evaluating
the performance of a hair mousse, one generally considers properties seen
in three major stages; the properties of the foam upon dispensing from the
package, the properties of the foam upon applying to the hair, and
properties of the er,d res~t~ t~ .~,~ ha~. ~rop~rti~ ~nsider~d u~
dispensing include volume of foam and foam expansion speed. It is known
that when foam expansion is slow or delayed, "pooling" of the product
occurs. Properties considered upon applying to the hair include stability
and breakability of the foam, non-soapiness, smoothness, softness,
creaminess, and stickiness. Properties considered on the end results to the
hair include style control, dry or wet feel of hair, washability, shine,
moisturizing, conditioning, anti-static, and brushing.
An ~Llen,,ut to achieve the above requirement, co-pending,
commonly-assigned U.S. application serial number 08/154,231 (Y. Chen
and T. Nambu) filed November 18, 1993 discloses a foaming agent for
leave-on foaming cosr"~ :lic composition coi~ "~risi"g an amphoteric
surfactant and an amine oxide.
However there remains a need for foaming cosmetic compositions
contain no amine oxide. In Europe, there is an inleresl in a formula that
does not use amine oxide for safety reasons.
Further there remains a need for foaming cosmetic compositions
having improved clear and stable concentrations, especially, in the
presence of a polymer, such as cationic type of water soluble polymer in the
compositions .
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.
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
It is an object of the present invention to provide a foaming agent
which foams by being dispensed or sprayed, and provides voluminous and
stable foaming, smooth and mild touch, and styling/conditioning effect to
foaming cosmetic compositions.
It is also an objective of the present invention to provide a foaming
cosmetic composition which provides a stable and clear concentration for
better product stability.
It is further an object of the present invention to provide a foaming
cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse composition comprising said
foaming agent which provides a foam having appropriate foam breakdown
(foam breakability) under shear and is easy to spread on hair, has a
smooth, soft and creamy texture, and has a mild touch.
It is further an object of the present invention to provide a foaming
cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse composition comprising said
foaming agent which can be formulated in combination with a wide range of
solvents, preservatives, and propellants.
It is further an object of the present invention to use a surfactant
system that does not contain amine oxide.
It is further an object of the present invention to provide a foaming
cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse co,."~osition comprising said
foaming agent which provides quick, voluminous foam expansion and
reduced pooling upon dispensing.
It is further an object of the present invention to provide a hair
mousse composition comprising said foaming agent which provides good
style control, conditioning effect, and good feel to the hair, with less flakingtendency.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a foaming agent comprising at least
a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene type of nonionic SUI racla, ll
which has a total HLB by Griffin method of at least 12, which foams by
being dispensed or sprayed, and provides improved foaming characteristics
to foaming cosmetic compositions.
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The present invention also relates to a foaming cosmetic composition
such as a hair mousse composition comprising the foaming agent and
further comprising a polymer such as cationic type of water soluble polymer,
but not limited to cationic type, a solvent and a propellant.
In a particularly ,~,refer,ed embodiment of the present invention, the
hair mousse composition comprises the foaming agent which comprises at
least a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene type of nonionic
surfactants which has a total HLB by Griffin method of at least 12, from
0.005% to 5%, and further comprises a polymer, a solvent, a preservative,
and a propellant.
DETAIL DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a foaming agent for use in a foaming
cosmetic composition which foams by being dispensed or sprayed,
comprising at least a polyxyethylene and/or polyoxy propylene type of
nonionic surfactant which has and total HLB by Griffin method of at least
12. In another word, the present invention relates to a foaming agent for
use in a foaming cosmetic composition which foams by being dispensed or
sprayed, cor"plising at least a nonionic surfactant comprises polymer units
selected from polyoxyethylene, polyoxypropylene, and mixtures thereof.
The present invention also relates to a foaming composition such as
a hair mousse composition comprising the foaming agent and further
comprising a polymer, a solvent and a propellant.
All percentages and ratios are based on weight unless otherwise
specified. The total of cor"ponents except for propellant is defined as a
concentrate. For non-aerosol products containing no propellant, the
conce"lrale is equal to the entire composition.
FOAMING AGENT
The foaming agent of the present invention comprises at least a
polyxyethylene and/or polyoxy propylene type of nonionic surfactant which
has a total HLB by Griffin method of at least 12.
In the present invention, HLB is measured by Griffin method as follows:
For polyhydric alcohols and fatty acid esters, HLB is calculated by the
following calculated general formula(i):
HLB=20(1 -S/A) -----(i)
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wherein;
S is saponification value of esters,
A is acid value of fatty acids;
For cases which saponification value is not clear, HLB is calculated by the
following general formula(ii):
HLB=(E+P)/5 -----(ii)
wherein;
E is weight percentage of ethylene oxide,
P is weight perce"lage of polyhydric alcohol; and
For cases which polyoxyethylene is the only hydrophilic group, HLB is
calculated by the following general formula(iii):
HLB=E/5 -----(iii)
E is weight percentage of ethylene oxide.
When comprised in foaming cosmetic compositions such as hair
mousses, the foaming agent of the present invention prererably comprises
at least a polyxyethylene and/or polyoxy propylene type of nonionic
surfactant which has and total HLB by Griffin method of at least 12, from
0.005% to 5%, more preferably 0.005% to 3%. When the foaming agent of
the present invention is applied to foaming cosmetic composition, it
provides clear and stable conce,ll,cles and voluminous and stable foaming,
and smooth and mild touch to foaming cosmetic compositions, with
improved less flaking tendency. Other components of a foaming agent and
include solvents such as water, lower alcohol, polyhydric alcohols, and
mixture thereof.
NON-IONIC SURFACTANT
Polyoxvethylene AlkYI Ether
Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether is polyethylene glycol ether of alkyl alcohol.
The polyoxyethylene alkyl ether surfactant can be the following general
structure;
CH3 - (CH2)a - (OCH2CH2)n - OH (I)
wherein;
a has an average value from 9 to 21,
n has an average value from 2 to 200;
Polyoxvethvlene Alkenvl Ether
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The polyoxyethylene alkenyl ether su~ racldnt can be the following general
structure;
CH3 - (CH2)b CH = CH (CH2)c - (OCH2CH2)n - OH ----(Il)
wherein;
b has an average value from 1 to 10,
c has an average value from 1 to 10,
n has an average value from 2 to 200;
PolvoxvProPvlene Polvoxvethvlene Alkvl or alkenvl or iso-alkvl or iso-
alkenvl or dimethvlPolvsiloxane Ether
The polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene alkyl or alkenyl or iso-alkyl or iso-
alkenyl or dimethylpolysiloxane Ether surfactant can be the following
general structure;
R1 - (OCH (CH3) CH2)x- (OCH2CH2)y - OH - --
(111)
wherein;
R1 is alkyl alkenyl groups or iso-alkyl alkenyl groups or
dimethylpolysiloxane derivatives,
x has an average value from 2 to 100,
y has an average value from 2 to 100;
Polvoxvethvlene Lon~ chain alkvl fattv acid or dimethvlPolvsiloxane or
benzene derivatives Ether
The polyoxyethylene long chain alkyl fatty acid or benzene derivatives ether
surfactant can be the following general structure;
(4) a polyoxyethylene Long chain alkyl fatty acid or benzene derivatives
ether surfactant having the following general structure (IV):
R2 - (OCH2CH2)n -OH (IV)
wherein;
R2 can be selected from the group consisting of castor oil triglyceride
castorate, cholesterol, coconut oil triglyceride coco~te, alkyl phenol,
glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl Isostearate,
glyceryl stearate, hydrogenated castor oil triglyceride hydrogenated
castorate, hydrogenated lanolin, nonyl phenyl and dimethylpolysiloxane
derivatives,
n has an average value from 2 to 200;
Polvoxvethylene Dialkvl. or iso-alkvl. or alkenvl Ether
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The polyoxyethylene Dialkyl, or iso-alkyl, or alkenyl ether surfactant can be
the following general structure;
R3 - C (O) - (OCH2CH2)n - O - C (O) - R4
(V)
wherein;
R3 and R4 are respectively selected from the group consisting of
alkyl groups, iso-alkyl groups and alkenyl groups,
n has an average value from 2 to 200;
PolYoxvProPYlene Alkvl, iso-alkyl, alkenvl or lonq chain alkYI fattv acid Ether
The polyoxypropylene Alkyl, iso-alkyl, alkenyl or long chain alkyl fatty acid
ether surfactant can be the following general structure;
R5 - (OCH (CH3) CH2)n OH
(Vl)
wherein;
R5 is alkyl groups, iso-alkyl groups or alkenyl groups,
n has an average value of 2 to 200.
FOAMING COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
A foaming cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a
concentrate which is a foamable liquid which produces a foam when mixed
an external source of air or gas, and is dispensed as a foam.
A conce, ilrdle (by weight) of the foaming cosmetic composition of the
present invention comprises 0.005-20%, more preferably 0.005-10%, most
p,ere, ably 0.005-6%, of the foaming agent.
Solvent
The foaming cosmetic compositions further preferably comprises a
solvent for the foaming agent. Solvents used in a foaming cosmetic
composition of the ~resenl invention are selected depending on variables
such as the remainder compor ~ents, viscosity, and desired foaming
characteristic of the composition.
When comprised in hair mousses, the solvent is preferably
comprised at a level of 60-99%, more preferably 80-99%, most pr~ferably
85-98% of the concel Ill aLe.
Non-limiting examples of solvents useful in the present invention are:
water, lower alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons such as ethanol and
isopropanol, and polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, hexylene
glycol, glycerin, and propane diol, and mixtures thereof.
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ProPellant
The foaming cosmetic co",positions further ,crererably comprises a
propellant so mixing with the conce~ ate to foam the foam.
Propellants when used in a foaming cosmetic cG",position in the
present invention are selected depending on variables such as the
remainder components, the package, and how the product is designed to be
used (standing or invert).
When comprised in hair mousses, the propellant is preferably
comprised at a level of 0~0%, more preferably 0-30% of the entire
composition. When no propellant is used, the hair mousse composition is
usually provided in a package equipped with an air or gas mixing device.
Non-limiting examples of propellants useful in the present invention
are: fluorohydrocarbons such as difluoroethane 152a (supplied by DuPont),
dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, and hydrocarbons such as
propa"e, iso-butane, n-butane, and mixtures of hydrocarbons such as LPG
(liquefied petroleum gas).
When used with a propellant, the components usually must be
contained under pressure in a suitable vessel, such as a pressed
dispensing package which is well known in the art(for example, a package
for Vidal Sassoon Styling Mousse Extra Body/ The Procter & Gamble
Company).
Optional comPonents
Optional components can be included in the foaming cosmetic
compositions of the present invention, depending on the needs of the
product. Non-limiting examples of such optional components include
additional surfactants, ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing
agents, hair conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents, perfume, color,
pH adjusters, polymers, dyes, vitamins, proteins, plant extracts, and
nutrients.
A foaming cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse compositions
can comprise a polymer for hair styling and conditioning, and a
preservative, and can further comprise other optional components.
Polvmer
A foaming cosmetic composition such as a hair mousse compositions
may further comprise a polymer. Such polymer comprise cationic, nonionic,
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anionic, and amphoteric polymers. Polymer is typically included by weight
at a level of 0-15%, p. ererably 0-10% of the conce"l, dle.
Polymers suitable for use herein include any polymers soluble or
colloidally dispersible in the aqueous phase (if water is the only solvent in
the aqueous phase, the polymer should be soluble or dispersible in water; if
an optional cosolvent such as ethanol is present the polymer should be
soluble or dispersible in the combined solvent system).
Solubility/dispersibility is determined at ambient conditions of temperature
and pressure (25~C at 1At). Polymers for use in the compositions of the
present invention include cationic, anionic, nonionic, and amphoteric resins.
Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers useful in the present
invention include quaternized cellulose ethers such as Polyquaternium 10
(hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride ether)
under the trade name Ucare Polymer LR and Polyquaternium 4
(hydroxyethylcellulose dimethyldiallyl amroo~ium chloride copolymer) under
the trade name Celquat, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/alkylaminoacrylate or
methacrylate copolymers such as Polyquaternium 11 (polyvinylpyrrolidone
N,N'-dimethylaminoethylmethacrylic acid copolymer diethyl sulfate salt)
under the trade name Gafquat, methylvinylimidazolium vinylpyrrolidone
quaternary ammonium copolymers commercially available under the trade
name Luviquat, vinylmethyl ether ethyl maleate copolymer (PVM/MA
copolymer), PVPNA copolymer under the trade name Luviskol, polyvinyl
alcohol, copolymers of polyvinylalcohol and crotonic acid, copolymers of
polyvinylalcohol and maleic anhydride, hydroxypropyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl guar gum, sodium polystyrene sulro"ale, polyvinylpyrrolidone
ethylmethacrylate methacrylic acid terpolymer, octylacrylamide acrylate
butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, N-methacryloyl ethyl-N, N'-
dimethyl ammonium gamma-N-methyl carboxy betaine butyl methacrylate
copolymer under the trade name Yukaformer AM-75, and mixtures thereof.
Other examples of cationic polymers include silicone-grafted
copolymers (including mixtures of such copolymers), comprising silicone
covalently bonded to the polymer backbone (i.e. silicone chains are grafted
to the backbone), and are derived by polymerization of a combination of
nonionic, nonquaternizable, water soluble monomers and nonionic,
quaternizable monomers. The silicone macromers will generally be
incorporated into the polymer by conducting the polymerization of the above
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two types of monomers also in the presence of silicone macromer, i.e.
silicone containing monomers.
The silicone macromer-grafted copolymers hereof will have a
polymeric backbone with a Tg of from about 30~C to about 140~C. The
silicone macromer-containing copolymers have an organic polymeric
backbone, preferably a vinyl backbone or other carbon-based backbone
derived from ethylenically unsaturated polymerizable monomers. The
polymers are derived by polymerization of: from about 2% to 15%, by
weight, of silicone macromers; from about 5% to 40%, by weight, anionic,
quaternizable monomers; and from about 30% to 60%, by weight, of non-
ionic, water soluble, nonquaternizable monomers. At least 5% of the
monomers, by weight are quaternized.
The quaternizable nonionic monomers hereof include quaternizable,
amino-functional ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as the amino
functional derivatives of styrene, acrylamides, methacrylamides,
(meth)acrylates such as C1-Cs alkyl esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic
acid.
Examples of such monomers include: (i) p-
dimethylaminomethylstyrene, p-dimethylaminoethylstyrene; (ii)
dimethylaminomethyl acrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl acrylamide,
dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, dimethylaminomethyl
methacrylamide, dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl
(meth)acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, and
dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylamide.
Examples of nonionic, nonquaternizable, water soluble monomers
include acrylamides, methacrylamides, (meth)acrylates, cinamides, vinyl
alcohols, vinyl pyrrolidones, vinyl oxazolidones, and derivatives thereof.
Specific examples include acrylamide, methacrylamide, mono- and di- C1-
C6 alkyl (meth)acrylamides, such as dimethylacrylamide,dimethylmethacrylamide, isopropylacrylamide, t-butylacrylamide,
isopropylmethacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, mono- and di- C1-C20
alkyl (meth) acrylamides, such dimethylacrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl
, methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, cetyl
methacrylate, acrylglycinamide, methacrylglycinamide, vinyl alcohol, vinyl
pyrrolidone, vinyl oxazolidone, vinylmethoxazolidone, and poly(ethylene
glycol) phenyl ether (meth)acrylate.
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Other examples of cationic polymers are cationic guar gums, for
example, hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar gum, quaternized cellulose
ethers such as copolymers of hydroxyethylcellulose with diallyldimethyl
ammonium chloride or with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides,
homopolymers of lower alkylamino alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomers
(e.g. dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate) and copolymers thereof with
compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or with methacrylate
derivatives such as methyl, ethyl, abietyl and oleyl methacrylates and
mixtures thereof and/or with alkyl acrylates such as methyl and butyl
acrylates and mixtures thereof, copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium
chloride and acrylamide, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium
chloride, vinylimidazoliumlvinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures
thereof.
Polycationic hair conditioning polymers can be derived from
polymerizable cationic starting monomers, or from polymerizable nonionic
monomers which are modified subsequent to polymerization to be of
cationic character.
Examples of the cationic monomers include:
(i) monomers derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, which is
referred to hereinafter collectively as (meth)acrylic acid, and a
quaternized epihalohydrin product of a trialkyl amine having 1 to 5
carbon atoms in the alkyl group such as
(methy)acryloxypropyltrimethylammonium choride and
(meth)acryloxypropyltriethylammonium bromide;
(ii) amine derivatives of (meth)acrylic acid or amine derivatives of
(meth)acrylamide derived from (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylamide
and a dialkylalkanolamine have C1-C4 alkyl groups such as
dimethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate, diethylaminoethyl (meth)acrylate,
dimethylaminopropyl (meth)acrylate, or dimethylaminopropyl
(meth)acrylamide; and
(iii) derivatives of the products of the group (ii) above by (1 ) neutralizationwith an inorganic or organic acid, such as hydrochloric acid, or lactic
acid, (2) modification with a halogenated alkyl, such as methyl
chloride, ethyl chloride, methyl bromide, or ethyl iodide, (3)
modification with a halogenated fatty acid ester such as ethyl
monochloroacetate, or methyl monochloropropionate, and (4)
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modification with a dialkyl sulfate such as dimethyl sulfate, or diethyl
sulfate.
Furthermore, the cationic unsaturated monomers include amine
derivatives of allyl compounds such as diallyldimethyla",l"onium chloride
and the like as well as vinylimidazolium quaternary ammonium monomers.
These cationic unsaturated monomers can be polymerized in
cationic form, or as an alternative they can be polymerized in the form of
their precursors, which are then modified to be cationic, for example, by a
quaternizing agent (eg. ethyl monochloroacetate, dimethyl sulfate, etc.)
Non-limiting examples of polycationic polymers include cationic
polysaccharides, homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride,
copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, cationic
amino-functional homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic acid
and/or methacrylic acid, especially from alkylaminoalkyl acrylate and
methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethyl acrylate and
methacrylate, polyalkylene imines and ethoxy polyalkylene imines,
vinylimidazolium/vinylpyrrolidone quaternary ammonium copolymers, and
mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of nonionic monomers are acrylic or
methacrylic acid esters of C1-C24 alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, 1-
propanol, 2-propanol, 1 -butanol, 2-methyl-1-~, opanol, 1 -pentanol, 2-
pentanol, 3-pentanol7 2-methyl-1-butanol, 1-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-1-
butanol, 1-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol, t-
butanol, cyclohexanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol, 3-heptanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-
octanol, 6-methyl-1-heptanol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 3,5-dimethyl-1-hexanol,
3,5,5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodec~nol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-
oct~lec~nol, and the like, the alcohols having from about 1-24 carbon
atoms; styrene; chlorostyrene; vinyl esters such as vinyl acetale; vinyl
chloride; vinylidene chloride; acrylonitrile; alpha-methylstyrene; t-
butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyl toluene;
alkoxyalkyl (meth)acrylate, such as methoxy ethyl (meth)acrylate and
butoxyethyl (meth)acrylate; and mixtures thereof. Other nonionic monomers
include acrylate and methacrylate derivatives such as allyl acrylate and
methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and methacrylate, oleyl acrylate and
methacrylate, benzyl acrylate and methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate
and methacrylate, ethylene glycol di-acrylate and -methacrylate, 1,3-
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butyleneglycol d-acrylate and -methacrylate, diacetonacrylamide, isobornyl
(meth)acrylate, and the like.
Non-limiting examples of polar nonionic monomers include
acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide,
methacrylonitrile, acrylamide, acrylate alcohols (eg.C2-C6 acrylate alcohols
such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxyproxyl acrylate), hydroxyethyl
methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers,
such as methyl vinyl ether, acyl lactones and vinyl pyridine, allyl alcohols,
vinyl alcohols and vinyl caprolactam.
Preservative
Hair mousse compositions can further comprise a preservative.
Such preservative is ,lJrererably included at a level of 0-5%, more preferably
0-3% of the conce"llaLe.
Non-limiting examples of preservatives useful in the present
invention are DMDM Hydantoin (dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin) Kathon CG,
(mixture of methylchloro-isothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone),
imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, EDTA and its salts, benzyl alcohol,
and parabens such as methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, and
LiquaPar oil (mixture of isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, and butyl
paraben).
Other OPtional ComPonents
Hair mousse compositions can further comprise additional
surfactants. Such additional surfactants comprise nonionic, cationic,
anionic, and other amphoteric surfactants which do not aflect the foaming
agent of the present invention. Non-limiting examples of such additional
surfactants include sodium cocoyl isethionate (sodium cocoyl ethyl ester
sulfonate), sodium fatty acid sarcosinate, sodium fatty acid methyl amino
propionate, and Geropon TC42 (Na-N-cocoyl N-methyl taurate), lauric acid
dimethanolamide. Additional surfactant is typically included at a level of
less than 50%, preferably less than 33% of the foaming agent.
Hair mousse compositions may further comprise a variety of optional
components. Such optional components include; thickeners and viscosity
modifiers such as diethanolamides of long chain fatty acids, sodium
chloride, and sodium sulfate, hair conditioning agehts such as cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and panthenol, ultraviolet absorbing agents
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such as octyl salicylate, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic
acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine, coloring agents, hair oxidizing
agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate salts and persulfate salts,
hair reducing agents such as thioglycolates, perfumes, perfume solubilizing
agents such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sequestering agents,
polymer plasticizing agents such as glycerin and propylene glycol, and
volatile and non-volatile silicone fluids. Such optional ingredients are
typically included at a level of 0.01-20%, preferably from 0.01-10% of the
concentrate.
EXAMPLES
The following examples illustrate the compositions of the present
invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof. All percentages and
ratios are described as active levels.
TABLE 1
COMPONENT AMOUNT (%)
COMPOSITION NO.
2 3 4
Cor,ce llldle 94.0 92.0 93.0 95.0
Propellant L.P.G. 6.0 8.0 7.0 5.0
Total of C~.. ",&sition 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE
Laureth-21 1 0.08 0.16 0.14
Laureth 4.2 2 0.07 0.14 0.12 0.15
Ceteth-15 3 0.30 0.30
Isoste~eth-10 4 - 0.05
Oleth-2 5 - 0.02
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 6 0.05
PEG-40hy.l~ c.latedcastoroil 7 - - 0.05
PEG-150 di~leardle 8 - - - 0.05
PPG-2 lanolin alcohol ether 9 - - 0.02
Lauramide DEA 10 - - 0.03
Polyquatemium4 3.00 3.00 - 0.50
Polyquaternium 7 - - 6.25 10.00
Polyquatemium 11 - 5.00 2.00
Ethyl ether of PVM/MA copolymer - - 0.33
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Ethanol - 10.00
Methyl paraben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
Propyl paraben - 0.05 0.05 0.05 r
Phenoxyethanol 0.25 0.15 0.15 0.15
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Dimethicone copolyol - 0.17 - -
PerFume 0.10 0.10 0.08 0.05
Propylene glycol 0.10
Dl water q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Total o~ Cc;.,ce.ll,.. le 100 100 100 100
TABLE 2
COMPONENT AMOUNT (~JO)
COMPOSITION NO.
6 7 8
Conce.,l,ale 91.0 94.0 100.0 93.0
Propellant E.P.G. 9.0 6.0 0.0 7.0
Total of CG.~ OSjl;On 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE
Laureth-21 1 - 0.05 0.10 0.20
Laureth4.2 2 0.10 0.15 0.05
Ceteth-15 3 0.14 0.05 - 0.05
Isoslear~ll,10 4 - - 0.10
Oleth-2 5 - - 0.02 0.05
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 6 0.02
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 7 - - 0.03
PEG-150 ~;ste~ate 8 - 0.05 0.03 0.03
PPG-2 Lanolin alcohol ether 9 0.02
Polyquaternium 7 - 1.5 5.00
Polyquatemium 10 1.00
Polyquatemium 11 - 4.00 10,00
Silicone y,drleJ copolymer - - - 3.50
Ethyl etherof PVM/MA copolymer 0.25 1.00
Ethanol 3.00 4.00 10.00
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Methyl paraben 0.10 0.100.10 0.10
Propyl paraben 0.10 0.100.10 0.10
Phenoxyethanol 0.25 0.250.25 0.25
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.100.10 0.10
Di.netl-icone copolyol 0.10 0.10 - -
Perfume 0.05 0.050.10 0.10
Propylene glycol 0.10 0.100.20 0.10
Dl water q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.
Total of Co,.ce.. l~dle 100 100 100 100
TABLE 3
COMPONENT AMOUNT (%)
COMPOSITION NO.
B
Concc. .l- dle 94.0 94.0
Propellant L.P.G. 6.0 6.0
Total of Composition 100.0 100.0
COMPONENTS IN CONCENTRATE
Laureth-21 1 - 0.16
Laureth 4.2 2 - 0.14
Ceteth-15 3 - 0.30
Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.00
Lauramine oxide 1.00
t~--eth 10 4
Lauramide DE~*10
Polyquatemium 4 3.00 3.00
Polyquale...ium 7
Polyquatemium 11 5.00 5.00
Ethyl ether of PVM/MA copolymer
Ethanol
Methyl pdr~l,c... 0.15 0.15
Propyl pdrdlJcl~ 0.15 0.15
_
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Phenoxyethanol 0.25 0.25
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10
Dimethicone copolyol - -
Perfume 0.10 0.10
Propylene glycol 0.10 0.10
Dl Water q.s. q.s.
Total of Concentrate 100 100
*1 Active of Nikkol BL-21, Polyoxyethylene(21) lauryl ether
(100% wax like solid)
21 is an average value of ethylene oxide.
*2 Active of Nikkol BL~.2, Polyoxyethylene(4.2) lauryl ether
(100% liquid)
4.2 is an average value of ell-yle .e oxide.
*3 Active of Nikkol BC-15TX, Polyoxyell"~lel,~(15) cetyl ether
(100% wax like solid)
15 is an average value of ~tl,~le.,e oxide.
*4 Active of AROSURF 66 E10 (100% liquid)
10 is an d~ar-- ~e value of ell"~le.,e oxide.
*5 Active of Briij 92, Polyoxyetl"~lene(2) oleyl ether (100%
liquid)
2 is an average value of ethylene oxide.
*6 Active of Ploc~ l AWS, polyoxyethylene(5)
Polyoxyell"rle.,e(20) cetyl ether
Each of the m~n~er~ is an average value.
*7 Active of Nikkol HCO-40, Polyoxyethylene derivative of
hydrogenated caster oil with an average of40 moles of
ethylene oxcide (100% solid)
*8 Active of Atlas G-1821, Polyethylene glycol chester of
stearic acid with an average of 150 moles of ell,yle.,e
oxide (100% solid)
*9 Active of Solulan PB-2, Polypropylene glycol ether of
lanolin alcohol.
2 is an average value of ethylene oxide.
*10 Active of STANDARMI AC LDS-RV (30% solution)
The compositions shown in Tab!es 1, 2 and 3 can be prepared by any
conventional method well known in the art A suitable method is as follows:
Polymers and preservatives are added into distilled water under agitation at
room te,,~perdLLIre. The obtained mixture is heated up to 70-75~C until
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homogenized. Other optional components are added to the heated mixture,
and agitated until homogenized. The obtained mixture is allowed to cool to
30-40~C, and surfactarlts, perfume and=other heat sensitive components
are added. The obtained concentrate is packed into cans with propellant.
Evaluation of the Product of the F(ese"l Invention
Evaluation of a composition of the present invention has been done
according to the following two methods by using the following test
products (compositions A and B):
1. Test products:
(The formulations of the following test products are shown in Table ~.)
Composition A: A mousse composition which is an example of the
composition of co-,uei ,di"g U. S. application Serial No. 08/154231.
Composition B: A mousse composition which is an example of the
present invention.
(1 ) FLAKING TENDENCY TEST
Method:
Prepare black, straight flat hair switches (Oriental-hair switches), total
10 gram weight per switch, with 7 cm width and 25 cm length. Hang
the each hair switch upright on a stand, under room temperature
condition. Weight 1.5 gram of mousse foam of the test products (A
and B). Carefully spread out the foam on the surface of one side of
switch, without letting the foam collapsing off while applying. Uniformly
spread all 1.5 gram across whole hair switch and let the foam dry on
switches naturally. After foam disappear and dry, grade the residue
tendency using the following scale.
Scale: 0: Nothing visual. (Same as Virgin hair)
Scale 1: Slight residue.
Scale 2: Moderate residue.
Scale 3: Severe residue. (Same as Virgin hair)
Scale 4: Very severe residue.
The results of 10 expert panelists evaluation showed:
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Composition A: Scale 3.0
Composition B: Scale 0.8
Namely, composition B showed significantly less flaking tendency than
composition A.
(2) TEST FOR CLEARNESS OF CONCENTRATES
Method:
Put 5g concentrates into a 100 ml glass jar (diameter: 4 cm, height: 10
cm). Ask 10 panelists to rate the clearness of the conce"l,dles based
on the following scales:
0: Extremely clear
1: Very clear
2: Clear
3: Not so clear/not so cloudy.
4: Cloudy
5: Very cloudy
6: Extremely cloudy.
The results of 10 panelists evaluation showed:
composition A: average score is 4.6, Standard Deviation is 0.84.
composition B: average score is 1.2, standard deviation is 0.79.
Namely, the calculation of SD showed these results are significantly
different. In other words, composition A is significantly clearer than
composition B.
What is claimed:
