Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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W097~4S70 PCT~P97tO1177
RA rR CA~P~ cn~po~rTIoNs
R ~CRGROUN~ OF ~ INVENTION
Fleld of the T~ventio~
The invention relates to conditioning and styling hair
compositions such as shampoos, styling gels and mousses.
The Rel~ted Art
Soil and sebum over t:!me collect on the hair. An
unattractive and dirt~ feel result. Regular treatment with
shampoo removes built up soil and sebum.
Certain disadvantages attend the shampooing process. For
instance, hair is left in a wet, tangled and unmanageable
state. Combabilit~ is impaired.
Hair conditioners have been developed for post-shampoo
application to improve combability and return hair to a
manageable state. Application of a conditioner in a separate
step is usually inconvenient.
More than a decade ago, dual action conditioning shampoos
were introduced to the marketplace. An early entry was
Dimension~, a product described in U.S. Patent 4,364,837
(Pader), formulated with dimethicone and quaternary ammonium
compounds (such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) to
assist the conditioning function. Pert Plus~ 2-in-l,
described in U.S. Patent 4,741,855 (Grote et al.), employs
combinations of a water-insoluble, non-volatile silicone
suspended by ethyleneglycol distearate or other esters of
long chain fatty acids to achieve conditioning deposit of the
silicone material onto the hair. Variants of Per~ PlUs~9 for
, ~ . "" , . .
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W097~4570 PCT~P97101177
permed hair list on their labels such further ingredients as
polybutene, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and
dihydrogenated tallowamidoethyl hydroxyethylmonium
methosulfate.
Rave Plus~ shampoo obtains conditioning effects through a
combination of a silicone microemulsion with guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as described in U.S. Patent
5,085,857 (Reid et al.).
Stylability is another desirable attribute for a hair
product. U.S. Patent 5,256,407 (Gough) achieves this
attribute through incorporation of per-alk(en)yl hydrocarbon
material, particularly polybutene. The highly hydrophobic
nature of polybutene unfortunately presents compatibility
difficulties and therefore limits its concentration level
within a formulation.
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to
provide a conditioninc~ hair care composition with stylability
features which overcomes problems with the known art.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a
conditionins hair care composition with styla~ility features
that can be applied to the hair in a single application.
These and other objects of the present invention will become
more readily apparent from consideration of the following
summar detailed description and examples.
8r~ A~y OF THE lNv~r-~TON
A hair care composition is provided that includes:
~i) from 0.001 to 1% :~y weig~t of phytantriol;
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W O 97134570 PCT~P97101177
(ii) from 0.001 to l~o by weight of a silicone compound; and
~iii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Particularly preferred are shampoos wherein the silicone is
dimethicone andfor cyclomethicone. Cationic guar gums such
as guar hydroxypropy:Ltrimonium salt promote conditioning
effectiveness. Enhanced performance is further achieved with
the inclusion of keratin amino acids.
D~TAIT-~n D~SCRIPTION OF THE lNvr~ION
Now it has been founci that a combination of phytantriol and a
silicone compound provides both conditioning and stylability
to hair care compositions, especially shampoos. Phytantriol
as known by its CTFA name is a hydrophobic branched triol
chemically identifiedi as 3,7,11,15-tetramethyl-1,2,3-
hexadecanetriol. Co~ercially it is available from Hoffmann-
La Roche, Inc., Nutley, New Jersey. For purposes of the
present invention, the amount of phytantriol will range from
0.001 to 1%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5%, optimally from
0.05 to 0.2% by weight.
Silicone compounds may be chosen from volatile and non-
volatile silicone fluids. Volatile silicone fluids are
preferably oils chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethyl
siloxanes containing from 3 to g, preferably from 4 to 5
silicon atoms.
Cyclomethicone is the most preferred cyclic volatile
silicone. Linear volatile silicone oils generally have
viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25~C while
cyclic fluids typical:Ly have viscosities of less than about
10 centistokes.
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Nonvolatile silicone oils useful for the present invention
include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and
polyether siloxane copolymers. Non-volatile polyalkyl
siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl
siloxanes with viscosities of from 5 to lOOr 000 centistokes
at 25~C. Among the preferred non-volatile silicones are the
polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from l0 to 400
centistokes at 25~C. These siloxanes are available, for
example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl
phenyl fluid or ~rom Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
The non-vola~ile polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be
used include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes having
viscosities of about 15 to 30,000 centistokes at 25~C.
Most preferred is dimethicone, especially an emulsion of
dimethicone dispersed as particles within an aqueous phase.
The preferred silicone emulsion of this variety is available
from the Dow Corning Corporation under the trademark DC 1784.
Levels of these oils may range from 0.l to 10%, preferably
from 0.5 to 5~, optimally from 0.8 to 2.5% by weight.
Cationic guar gum ma also be utilized as an adjunct
conditioning agent. The CTFA name for a preferred guar gum
is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. This material is
available from Rhone-Poulenc under the trademark Jaguar~.
Illustrative is Jaguar~ Cl3S, having a low degree of
substitution of cationic groups and a high viscosity. Other
suitable varieties are Jaguar~ C15, having a moderate degree
of substitution and a low viscosity; Jaguar~ C17 having a
high degree of substitution and a high viscosityi and Jaguar~
Cl6 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative
containing a low level of substituent groups as well as
. .
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W O 97~4~70 PCTAEP97/01177
cationic quaternary ammonium groups. Also suitable is
Jaguar~ 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity
guar having a low de~ree of substitution. Especially
preferred is Jaguar~ C13S.
Amounts of the cationic guar gum may range from 0.001 to 1%,
preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, optimally from 0.0~ to 0.2% by
weight.
Compositions of the E)resent invention will necessarily
include a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Generally this
carrier will be water. Sometimes the carrier may be a
propellant such as a hydrocarbon. Volatile solvents such as
lower alcohols (e.g. ethanol) may be used instead of or in
addition to water. ~mounts of the carrier may range from 1
to 99.9% by weight, F~referably from 20 to 99.5~, optimally
from 40 to 80% by weight.
Hair care co~Lpositions of this invention are preferably in
the form of shampoos but may also be in the form of
conditioners, styling gels and mousses. These compositions
are therefore amenable to liquid, gel and spray (aerosol and
non-aerosol) formulations.
Amino acids may also :be included in compositions of the
present invention. Keratin type amino acids are avallable
from Croda Inc. under the trademark Crotein HKP. Levels of
this material may range from 0.01 to 2%, preferably from 0.1
to 1.5%, optimally from 0.3 to 0.8~ by weight.
Compositions in accordance with the present invention when
intended as shampoos will comprise one or more surfactants
selected from anionic, nonionlc, amphoteric, zwitterionic and
cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
. ~. ... . . .. . . . .
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Suitable anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl
ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl
sulphosuccinates, N-,~lkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates,
alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and ~-
olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium,
ammonium and mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine salts. The
alkyl groups general:Ly contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and
may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether
phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to
10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule, and
preferably contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
Examples o~ further suitable anionic surfactants include
sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate,
ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate,
triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate and sodium N-lauryl
sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are
sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate,
triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether
sulphate lEO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulphate and
ammonium lauryl ether sulphate lEO, 2EO and 3EO.
The nonionic surfactants suitable for use in shampoos of the
2S invention may include condensation products of aliphatic (C8-
Cl~) primary or secondary linear or branched-chain alcohols or
phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and
generally 6-30 EO groups.
Other suitable nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl
alkanolamides, alkyl polyglucosides and polyhydroxy fatty
acid amides (e.g. methyl glucamides). Examples are coco
mono- or di-ethanolam.de, coco mono-iso-propanolamide, and
coco polyglucoside.
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The amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the invention
may include alkyl am:Lne oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl
amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines, alkyl glycinates,
alkyl carboxy~lycinat:es, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl
amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl
glutamates wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to
18 carbon atoms. Examples include lauryl amine oxide,
cocodimethyl sulphopr-opy~ betaine and, preferably, lauryl
betaine, cocamidopro~yl betaine and sodium
cocamphopropionate.
Examples of cationic surfactants include: quaternary
ammonium hydroxides and salts thereof, for example cetyl
trimethylammonium chloride, stearyl dimethylbenzylammonium
chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, quaternium-5,-31,-18 and
mixtures thereof.
The level of surfactant materials may range from 1 to 40~,
preferably from 2 to 35%, optimally from 5 to 30% by weight
of the composition.
Another ingredient th~t may advantageously be incorporated
into the hair care compositions of the invention is a fatty
alcohol material. The combined use of fatty alcohol material
and cationic surfactant in conditioning compositions is
believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to
the formation of a lamellar phase, wherein the cationic
surfactant is dispersed. Preferred fatty alcohols contain
from 8 to 22 carbon at:oms, more preferably 16 to 20.
Examples of preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol and
stearyl alcohol. The level of fatty alcohol material may
range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of
the composition.
" . " . /" . . .. . . . .
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Also includable are minor amounts of other lngredients
commonly found in hair care compositions, such as
antibacterial agents, antidandruff agents (e.~. zinc
pyridinethione or Octopirox~), foam boosters, perfumes, dyes,
coloring agents, preservatives, viscosity modifiers,
polymers, buffering agents, polyols and other moisturizing
agents, herb extracts, mink oil or honey.
Opacifiers or pearlescers may also be formulated into
compositions of the invention. Suitable are ethylene glycol
esters of fatty acids having from about 16 to 22 carbon
atoms. Preferred are the ethylene glycol stearates, both
mono and distearate, but particularly the distearate. Most
preferred, however, :LS titanium dioxide coated mica,
commercially availab e as Timiron~ MP1001.
Compositions of the invention in shampoo form are generally
applied in an amount of from 1 to 50 mls, preferably from 3
to 5 mls to wet hair. After applying the shampoo the wet
hair is worked to create a lather. The lather may be
retained on the hand for a short time before rinsing. e.g.
from 1 to 4 minutes, or may immediately be rinsed. The
treatment may be repeated, if required.
The following examples will illustrate preferred embodiments
within the scope of the present invention. These examples
are solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be
construed as limitations of the present invention as many
variations thereof are possible without departing from the
purview and spirit of the invention.
.. . ..
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l;~X~AMPT~P~s 1--4
Formulations illustrative of the present invention are listed
under Table I. These Examples represent respectively Normal,
Fine, Dry and Permed variations of shampoo.
TA~T~ I
INGREDIENTS EXA~PLES (WEIGHT %~
l 2 3 4
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate 56.00 56.00 56.00 56.00
(25~ active)
Carbopol~ 980 (2~ sol:n.)20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00
Betaine t30~ active) 6.67 6.67 6.67 6.67
DC 1784 (50~ active) 2.00 1.50 4.00 4.00
Propylene Glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Fragrance 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
Sodium Chloride 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Crotein H~P~ 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
NaOH 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45
Timiron~ MP1001 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
Phytantriol 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Jaguar~ C13S 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.20
Glydant Plus~ 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
B~T 0.05 0.05 0.05
Panthenol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10
Water balanc balanc balanc balanc
e e e e
~YAMPT~S 5-9
3~ Examples of conditi.oner formulations are provided under
Table II. The Examples respectively represent Normal, Fine,
Dry, Permed and Intensive conditioners.
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PCT~P97/01177
W097l34S70
T~RT~
INGREDIENTS EXA~PLES ~WE~GHT %)
6 7 8 g
Cetearyl 3.75 3.50 3.75 3 75 4 75
Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol3.75 3.50 3.75 3.75 4.75
Cetrimonium 3.45 3.45 4.31 4.65 3.45
Chloride ~29
active)
Paraffin 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
DC 1784 (50~1.00 0.50 1.50 2.50 3.00
active)
Stearyl 0.50 0.00 0.50 ~0;50 0.00
Stearate
Crotein HKP~0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Fragrance 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60
Glydant Plus~ 0.. 10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Phytantriol 0.. 10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
Behenyl 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.43
Trimonium
Chloride ~35%
active)
Cetyl ~-~~ 0-50 ~ ~~ ~'~~ 0 50
Palmitate
PEG 1450 0.00 0.10 0.00 0.00 0.00
Panthenol 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0-50
Water bal~nce balance balance balance balanc
~ MPT.F~ 1 0
This Example demonstrates the benefits o~ phytantriol and
silicone oil combinations for improving the conditioning
property of wet combing.
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11
Chemically untreated European brown hair was formed into 6-
inch long, 5-gram hair swatches. Each was bleached twice
within 48 hours to represent chemically damaged hair. A
sample size of 1 swatches was used for each shampoo
treatment.
A shampoo base identical to the formula of Example 1 ~absent
DC 1784, Crotein HK~, Timiron~ MP1001 and Jaguar~ C13S) was
applied to the hair swatches in a treatment consisting of:
A one minute soak in 40~C water
Shampoo for one minute
Rinse under running water for 30 seconds
Shampoo for one minute
Rinse under running water for 30 seconds
After rinsing, the cc,mbability of the swatches was evaluated.
Wet combability was measured using an INSTRON Universal
Testing Instrument Model 4501, INSTRON Corporation, Canton,
MA. The instrument is a computer-controlled electro-
mechanical device designed to measure force as a function of
applied strain. A hair swatch was suspended from the
instrumentls load cell, while a comb attached to the
instrument~s moving c:rosshead passed through it at a speed of
5 cmtmin. A comp~ter collected the data and transformed it
into the amount of work required to comb through the swatch.
The data is presented in Table III.
.
, *, ; ,
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T~Rr-F JII
wet C~mhin~ Resulta
SAMP~E NO. SHAMPOO TESTED WOR~ ~gm-cm)
1 Base 1344
2Base + 0.05% phytantriol 1021
3Ba~,e + 0.1% phytantriol 988
4Base + 0.2~ phytantriol 836
5 B'~se + 0.5~ silicone 1118
6Base + 0.05% phytantrial + 0.5~ 848
silicone
7~ase + 0.1% phytantriol + 0.5% 73g
silicone
8Base + 0.25 phytantriol + 0.5~ 648
silicone
A lower value for l~work~ indicates an improve~ent in wet
combing, i.e., less ef:Eort to comb the hair. The standard
deviation for all the samples was generally 10%. The results
indicate that phytantriol assisted in reducing wet combing
work and that increasing its level decreased the work.
Silicone, as shown in ',ample 5, also had an effect. The
combinations of phytant:riol and silicone have an
exceptionally large effect upon enhancing wet combability.
Although the invention has been described with reference to
specific Examples, it will be apparent to one skilled in the
art that various modifications will be suggested, all of
which are within the spirit and purview of this invention.
, ~
