Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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"Preparation for treating human skin and human hair
comprising a special. active ingredient combination, and
use of this active ingredient combination"
The invention re-~ates to preparations comprising a
special active ingredient combination of biotin and at
least one glycoprotein for treating human skin and
human hair, and to the use of this active ingredient
combination.
Human skin and human hair are treated with cosmetic
preparations in diverse ways. Since time immemorial,
this has included, i_rl particular, the cleansing and the
care of skin and r~air. However, recent times have seen
ever greater interest in products which, in addition to
the customary cleansing or care, are intended to
preserve or restore a condition which corresponds t=o a
certain ideal of beauty. Apart from the coverings of
gray hair, thi~~ includes, in particular, the
maintenance or restoration of vital hair and a full
head of hair, and also counteraction of the development
of wrinkles in the skin. There is therefore an
increasing need for new active ingredients or active
ingredient combinations having corresponding positive
effects on skin arid hair. These active ingredients and
active ingredient combinations can be applied in the
form of special formulations. However, it is also
advantageously the aim that they can be incorporated
into customary s)<:i:n- and hair-treatment compositions
and then develop t:he desired additional effect upon
application of said compositions.
Surprisingly, we have now found that an active ingredi-
ent combination consisting of biotin and at least one
glycoprotein increases the protein production in human
cells upon topica_1_ application. A corresponding appli-
cation :results not. only in the above-mentioned
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undesired developments being counteracted, but a:Lso,
associated with the increase in the vitality of cells,
the vitality of sl~;:in and hair significantly increases,
which is evident, for example, from improved ;skin
elasticity.
The invention therefore firstly provides preparations
for treating human skin and human hair, characterized
in that they compi:~ise an active ingredient combination
consisting of biotin and at least one glycoprotein.
Both biotin (seE~ e.g. Fey, Otto, Worterbuch der
Kosmetik [Cosmetic:s Dictionary], 4th edition, Wissen-
schaftliche Verlagsgesellschaft mbH Stuttgart, 1997,
page 39) and glycoproteins (see e.g. Product Specifica-
tion 12/94 regarding "Phytodermin" from the company
Chemisches Laborator.ium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH, Berlin)
are known as active ingredients for cosmetics. However,
these publications rnake no reference to the combination
2 0 according to the _Lnvent ion or the influence thereof on
the protein production in human cells and the positive
effects on human skin and hair effected thereby.
The first: component of the active ingredient combina-
tion according to the invention is biotin. Biotin is
understood as meaning (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydro-
thienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid. The compound
is also referred to as vitamin H or vitamin B~.
The active ingredient combination according to the
invention also cc:>mprises at least one glycoprotein.
Glycoproteins is the term used to refer to compounds
which contain carbohydrates and protein in the same
molecule.
Preference is given according to the invention to
glycoproteins of vegetable origin, in which case the
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glycoprotein origi.n<~tes in particular from a primary
plant cel:L wall.
Glycoproteins which have proven particularly suitable
according to the in~aention are those from soybe<~ns,
rice, oats, wheat, potatoes, peaches, almonds, mush-
rooms and peas . Glycoproteins from soybeans are parti-
cularly preferred according to the invention. From the
primary cell wal:L of soybeans, it is possible to
obtain, in particular, hydroxyproline-rich
glycoproteins or extensins, arabinogalactan proteins
and proline-rich proteins. Approximately 20-30% by
weight of: the dry mass of the primary cell wall of
soybeans consist of these three components.
As the c:arbohydrat~? portion, the glycoproteins used
according to the :invention preferably comprise ara:bin-
ose, galactose, m~~nnose, glucose and fucose. Arabi:nose
and galactose are preferred carbohydrates.
A glycoprotein which is particularly suitable according
to the invention is the product obtainable commercially
0
under the name Phytodermin .
The preparations according to the invention preferably
comprise biotin in amounts of 0.000001-0.5% by weight,
based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.000005-
0.05% by weight, in particular 0.00001-0.01% by weight,
are particularly preferred.
The glycoprotein:> are preferably present in the
preparations according to the invention in amount: of
from 0.0001-5% b~.~ weight, in particular 0.001-1°-<. by
weight, likewise bared on the total preparation.
The active ingredient combination according to the
invention can be incorporated, in principle, into all
customary hair- a~~d. skin-treatment compositions provi-
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ded known instabilities do not prevent this. Thus,
biotin is unstable, for example, in combination with
strong oxidizing a.g~~nt.s. However, in principle, it is
not the intention to exclude preparations with such
incompatibilities within the scope of the present
invention. Instead, it may be entirely possible accord-
ing to the invention to pack in this case one of the
incompatible components separately and only to add it
to the preparation d.i.rectly prior to application.
According to a first: preferred embodiment, the prep<~ra-
tions according to t:he invention also comprise at least
one penetration auxiliary.
Penetration auxiliaries which can be used according to
the invention are, for example, polyethylene glycols
having molar masses of from about 200 to 45,000, in
particular about 4C0, glycols, urea and glucose, and
glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
hydrogenc,arbonates, guanidines, and primary, secondary
and tertiary phosphates. Preferred penetration auxili-
aries are the polyethylene glycols, propylene glycols,
butylene glycols, urea and glucose.
The preparations according to the invention preferably
comprise the penetration auxiliaries in amounts of from
0.1-15o by weight,. based on the total preparation.. If
the field of application is skin, amounts of 0.1-loo by
weight are preferred, and if the field of application
is hair, amounts of 0.1-15o by weight are preferred. In
both cases, partic=ular preference is given to amounts
of about 0.1-5% by weight.
According to a ,second embodiment, the compositions
according to the :invention comprise a protein hydroly-
sate. Within the scope of the application, this; is
understood as meaning both protein hydrolysates them-
selves and also condensation products thereof with
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fatty acids, and quaternized protein hydrolysat;es.
Preferred protein hydrolysates are elastin, collagen,
keratin, milk protr~in, soybean protein, almond protein,
pea protein, rice protein and wheat protein hydroly-
sates. Vegetable protein hydrolysates are particularly
preferred. Furthermore, those protein hydrolysates
which have a high proportion of the amino acids
hydroxyproline anc~. proline are particularly suitable
according to the invention. The protein hydrolysates
are preferably present in the compositions according to
the invention in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on
the total composition.
According to a further preferred embodiment, the
preparations according to the invention comprise a
further vitamin component, chosen from panthenol, toco-
pherol and vitamin A and precursors and derivatives
thereof.
Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to
the invention are, 7_T1 particular, the esters and ethers
of panthenol, and canonically derivatized panthenols.
Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol
triacetate, panthE,nol monoethyl ether and its mono-
acetate, and the cationic panthenol derivatives dis-
closed in WO 92/7.3829. Panthenol itself is preferred
within this group. Panthenol and its derivatives are
preferably present 7_I1 the compositions according to the
invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on
the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are
particularly preferred.
Tocopherol and it;~ derivatives, which include, in
particular, the esters, such as the acetate, the nico-
tinate, the phosphat=e and the succinate, are preferably
present in the prE-~parations according to the invention
in amounts of 0 . ()5-1 % by weight, based on the total
preparation.
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Suitable vitamin A components according to the inven-
tion are,, for example, vitamin A acid and esters
thereof, vitamin P, aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and
esters thereof , such as the palmitate and the acetate .
The preparations according to the invention preferably
comprise the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1%
by weight, based on the total preparation.
According to a further preferred embodiment, the
preparations according to the invention comprise a
plant extract .
These extracts are usually prepared by extraction of
the whole plant. In individual cases, however, it may
also be preferred t.o prepare the extracts exclusively
from flowers and/o:r_ leaves of the plant.
With regard to the plant extracts which can be used
according to the invention, reference is made in parti-
cular to the extr<:~cts listed in the table starting on
page 44 of the third edition of the guidelines relating
to the declaration of. ingredients of cosmetic composi-
tions, published k:~y the Industrieverband Korperpfl~~ge-
and Waschmittel a .~V. ( IKW) , Frankfurt .
According to the invention, the extracts from oak bark,
stinging nettle, hamamelis, hops, camomile, burdock,
horsetail, hawthorn, :Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera,
spruce needle, roast chestnut, sandalwood, juniper,
coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon,
orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow,
lady's ~~mock, wi~!_d thyme, yarrow, thyme, balm,
restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng,
root ginger and green tea, in particular, can be used.
Preference is given to the extracts from oak bark,
stinging nettle, h~amamelis, hops, camomile, burdock,
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horsetail,, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut,
mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange,
grapefruii~, sage, rosemary, birch, lady's smock, wild
thyme, yarrow, re~;tharrow, meristem, ginseng, root
ginger and green tea.
For the use according to the invention, the extr<~cts
from almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon,
wheat, kiwi, melon <~nd green tea are very particularly
suitable.
As extra~~tants for the preparation of said p:Lant
extracts it is po~;s:ible to use water, alcohols, wai~er-
alcohol mixtures, and C02. Of the alcohols, preference
is given here to lower alcohols, such as ethanol and
isopropanol, but in particular to polyhydric alcohols,
such as ethylene g:Lycol and propylene glycol, both as a
sole extractant and also as a mixture with water. P.Lant
extracts based on water/propylene glycol in the ratio
1:10 to 10:1 have proven particularly suitable.
The plant extracts can be used according to the inven-
tion both in pure form and in dilute form. If they are
used in dilute foxrm, they usually comprise about 2-80%
by weighty of active substance and, as solvent, the
extractant or ext:ra.ctant mixture used in obtaining
them.
In addition, it may be preferred to use mixtures of two
or more, in particu7_ar of two, different plant extracts
in the compositions according to the invention.
Honey extracts are obtained in an analogous mannez- to
the plant extract~~ and usually comprise 1-10% by
weight, in particular 3-5o by weight, of active
substance. V,Iater/propylene glycol mixtures may also be
preferred extractant.:~:here.
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Plant extracts are preferably used in compositions
according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-20% by
weight, in particular in amounts of 0.2-8% by weight.
Amounts of 0.5-5% by weight may be very particularly
preferred. This quantitative data is firstly basecL on
the total composition according to the invention, and
secondly on the p ant extract in the form in which it
is added to the composition. As already stated above,
the plant. extract may be pure or in the form of a
solution usually containing 2-80% by weight of active
substance.
With regard to the quantitative data and the formula-
tion form of the honey extracts, the same applie~~ as
for plant extract.:, where extracts containing 0.01-10%
by weight, in particular 3-5% by weight, of active sub-
stance may be preferred.
In addition, the preparations according to the inwen-
tion alsc> preferably comprise a film former. Suitable
film formers are prz_marily ionic and, in particular,
nonionogenic polymers.
Preferred nonioniw polymers are polyvinylpyrrolidone
and vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers (for
example the products Luviskol K 30, K 90, VA 64 and
VA 37) and polysiloxanes (such as, for example, the
commercial products Dow Corning 345, 190, 193, 200,
245, 246, 1401 and 7.403).
Preferred cationic' polymers according to the invention
are quaternized cellulose ethers, such as, for example,
0
the commercial procLuct Polymer JR 400, polysiloxanes
0
having quaternary groups, such as Dow Corning DC 929,
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, such as
0
Merquat 100, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chlor-
0
ide copo:Lymers, such as Merquat 550, dimethylamino-
ethyl met~hacrylate=_-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers quater-
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0
nized with diethyl sulfate, such as Gafquat 734 and
755, vinylpyrrolic3one-imidazolinium methochloride co-
polymers, such as the commercial products of the
0
Luviquat series, ~:~n.d quaternized polyvinyl alcohol.
Suitable zwittericn_Lc and amphoteric polymers are, for
example, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/-
acrylate copolymer:, octylacrylamide/methylmethacryl-
ate/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl
methacrylate copolymers, such as the commercial product
0
Amphomer , and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
acrylic acid copolyrners, such as the commercial product
0
Merquat 280.
Preferred anionic polymers according to the invention
are pol~~acrylic acids and crosslinked polyacrylic
acids, such as, for example, the commercial groducts of
R
the Carbopol serie:~, in particular Carbopol ETD 2020,
vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers and terpolymers,
0
such as the prod~,zcts of the Luviset series, vinyl
pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/
butyl ma.leate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl
vinyl etlzer/maleic: anh~dride copolymers, such as the
P
products of the Gantrez series, and acrylic acid/ethyl
acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers.
The preparations according to the invention can be
formulated on an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoho-
lic basi:~. Suitable alcohols here are, in particular,
lower alc:ohols, Sl:lCh as ethanol and isopropanol. Here,
aqueous-alcoholic bases may comprise water and alcohol
preferably in a ratio of 1:5 to 5:1.
The active ingredient combination according to the
invention. can be appl.i.ed to the hair either in the form
of a separate formulation or as an additional component
in other compositloIls .
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According to a fs.rst embodiment, the preparations
according to the invention are formulated as hair
tonic, hair rinse or as hair cure . Hair tonics usually
remain on the hair until the next hair treatment, e.g.
daily hair washing . Hair rinses are usually formul<~ted
such that: rinsing out of the active ingredients is
intended with water or an at least predominantly wai~er-
containing composition after the desired contact tame.
The conta~~t time w:it:h the hair is generally short . Hair
cures comprise the active ingredient combination i.n a
higher concentration than hair rinses and are intended
for the intensive treatment of the hair and, where
appropriate, of the scalp. The contact time may be
short, for example in the order of magnitude of the
contact time of hair rinses, although it can also be as
much as 20 minute::, depending on the degree of damage
to the hair. When this contact time is over, the hair
cures according to t:he invention can also be rinsed out
with water or an at least predominantly water-
containing composition; they may, however, also be left
on the hair. These compositions can be formulated in a
preferred variant as foam aerosols. For this, the
compositions may comprise propellants. However, in this
variant, preference is given to the formulation as a
pump spray with air as propellant.
According to further embodiments, the compositions
according to the invention may be, for example, clean-
sing compositions, such as shampoos, setting composi-
tions, such as hair-setting products, hairsprays and
blow-waving product:, permanent shaping agents, such as
permanent waving compositions and permanent fixing
compositions, color-changing compositions, such as
bleaching agents, oxidation colorants and tinting
agents based on dirE=ct dyes, hair lotions and split-end
fluids.
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For the treatment of the skin, the preparations
according to the invention can be formulated, for
example, as skincare compositions and skin-cleansing
compositions. Particularly in the case of skin-
s treatment compositions, preference is given according
to the invention t:o those compositions which remain on
the body, in this ~:a.se the skin, following application.
Accordingly, the preparations can be formulated as
solutions, oil-in--water emulsions, water-in-oil emul-
sions, nanoemulsions, microemulsions, in particular
those of the PI'r type, gels, creams, aerosols or
lotions. The preparations can also be formulated. in
encapsulated form, Eor example in gelatin or polyvinyl
alcohol, and in t.r~.e form of liposomes, e.g. with leci-
thin. If these preparations comprise components which
cannot be formula.t:ed in a storage-stable manner
together with one or more constituents) of the active
ingredient combination according to the invention, it
is possible, as alrE=_ady stated above, to formulate this
active ingredient:. component or active ingredient
combination according to the invention in the form of a
separate formulation and only to mix it into the
preparation directly prior to application.
According to the type of composition chosen, the
preparations accor.-dinc~ to the invention may comprise
the further constit:uents customary in these composi-
tions. Further customary constituents of the prepara-
tions according to t:he invention may thus be:
- anionic surfactants such as, in particular, alkyl-
sulfates, alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates and ether
carboxylic aci.d;~ having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in
the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in
the molecule, and also sulfosuccinic mono- and
dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the
alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl
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esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
- nonionogenic :~urf:actants such as, in particular,
the addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethyl
ene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to
linear fatty alc:ohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
to fatty acid~~ having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, to
alkylphenols r.a~aing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the
alkyl group, a:nd to corresponding fatty acid amides
and fatty amines, C12-C22-fatty acid mono- and di-
ester:~ of addition products of from 1 to 30 mo:L of
ethylene oxide to glycerol, C8-C22-alkyl mono- and
oligoglycoside:~ and ethoxylated analogs thereof,
fatty acid N-~ul:k~~lglucamides, addition product: of
from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil
and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid
ester;, sugar c=_sters, sorbitan esters and poly-
sorbai~es. If the nonionic surfactants contain poly-
glyco:L ether chains, they may have a conventional
or narrowed homologue distribution,
- zwitterionic :surfactants, in particular the so-
called betaine:~, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimet:hyl-
ammon:ium glycicza.tes, for example cocoalkyldimet:hyl-
ammon:ium glyci:nat=e, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-
ammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylamino
propy:Ldimethyl<:~mmonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3
carbo:~ymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in
each case 8 to 1.8 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl
group, and cor_c>acylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxy
methyl glycinat:e,
- ampho:Lytic sur_-factants, such as N-alkylglyci:nes,
N-alkylpropion:ic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids,
N-alkylaminoditpropionic acids, N-hydroxyet:hyl-
N-alkylamidopropy:Lglycines, N-alkyltaurines,
N-alk~~lsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and
alkyl<~minoacet:ic acids having in each case about 8
to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
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cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium
compound type, preferably ammonium halides, in
particular chlox-ides and bromides, such as al:kyl-
trimet~hylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethyl-
ammon_i.um chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium
chlor_i.des, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,
stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, disteary:ldi-
methylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium
chlor_ude, laur;yld.imethylbenzylammonium chloride and
tricet:ylmethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimetlzyl-
ammon~_um methosulfate, and the imidazo:Lium
compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27
and Quaterniurn-83, of the esterquat type, for
examp7_e based on triethanolamine, diethanol-
alkylamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines on
the one hand and fatty acids, such as caproic acid,
capry7_ic acid, ~~apric acid, lauric acid, myristic
acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid,
oleic acid, el.aidi.c acid, arachidic acid, behenic
acid and eruc:ic acid or technical-grade mixtures
thereof, as are produced, for example, during the
pressurized cleavage of natural fats and oils, such
as, for example,, t=he products available under the
0 0
trade names l~ehyquart and Armocare , and the
alkylamidoamine type, such as the stearamidopropyl-
dimethylamine available commercially under the name
0
Tegoamid S 18,
- symmet:rical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched
dialkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36
carbon atoms, i.n particular 12 and 24 carbon atoms,
such as, for ex<~mple, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl
ether, di-n-norxyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-
n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl
n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl
n-dodecyl ethex:~ and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-
tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl-
decyl ether, tert--butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl. n-
octyl ether and.:z-methylpentyl n-octyl ether,
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- antifoams, such as silicones,
- thickeners, such. as agar agar, guar gum, alginates,
xanthan gum, gelatins, pectins, hydroxyet:hyl
cellulose, and polyacrylamides and copolymers
thereof,
- struct~urants, such as malefic acid,
- mono-, di- ancL oligosaccharides, such as, for
example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar
and lactose,
- ceramides,
- veget<~ble oils, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil,
orange oil, almond oil, wheatgerm oil and peach
stone oil, and paraffin oils,
- saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched
fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and
mixtures there~:~f , which form by reducing naturally
occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm
oil, groundnut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil,
soy o_L1, sunflc:~wer oil and linseed oil,
- monoesters of ratty acids with alcohols having 6 to
24 carbon atoms,
- hair-condition_i.ng compounds of the phosphol:ipid
type, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and
cephalins,
- perfurne oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclo-
dextrins,
- solubility promoters, such as ethanol, isopropanol,
ethylene glycc;~l, propylene glycol, glycerol and
diethylene glyc:vol,
- dyes t:o color t:.he composition,
- antidandruff active ingredients, such as piroctone
olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole,
- further substances for adjusting the pH,
- active ingrediE:mts, such as allantoin, pyrrolidone-
carboxylic acids and bisabolol,
- light protecti<:>n agents,
- consi~~tency-imparting agents, such as sugar estc=_rs,
polyo7_ esters c:~r polyol alkyl ethers,
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fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, mo:ntan
wax and paraffins,
- fatty acid alkanclamides,
- opacif_iers, ;such as latex, styrene/PVP and
styrene/acrylarnide copolymers,
- pearlizing age:nt~s, such as ethylene glycol mono-
and distearate,, and PEG-3 distearate,
- complE~xing ageni~s, such as EDTA, NTA, (3-alanine-
diacet~ic acid and. phosphonic acids,
- directs dyes,
- so-called coupler and developer components as
oxidation dye precursors,
- reducing agents such as e.g. thioglycolic acid and
derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
thiomalic acid anal a-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
- oxidizing agent=s, such as hydrogen peroxide,
potassium bromate and sodium bromate,
- propellants, such as propane/butane mixtures, N20,
dimethyl ether; CO~, N2 and air, and
- antioxidants.
With regard to further compounds, reference is made to
the handbooks known to the person skilled in the art,
e.g. K. Schrade:r, Grundlagen and Rezepturen der
Kosmetika [Cosmetic fundamentals and formulations], 2na
edition, Hizthig Bu:~h Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989.
The pH of the preparations according to the invention
may be, in principle, between 4.5 and 7, the person
skilled in the art t=aking into consideration instabili-
ties known to him, i=or example of the basic substance
panthenol in the alkaline medium. The pH of the compo-
sitions according to the invention is preferably :bet-
ween 6 and 6.5. T.:~ adjust this pH, virtually any acid
useable for cosmetic purposes can be used. Food a~~ids
are usually used. Food acids are understood as meaning
those acids which are taken in in the course of usual
food consumption and have positive effects on the human
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organism. Food acids are, for example, acetic acid,
lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid,
ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. Within the scope of
the invention, the use of lactic acid and citric acid
is particularly preferred.
The invention further provides for the use of an active
ingredient combinat.i_on consisting of biotin and at
least one glycoprotein for treating human skin and
human hair, and for the use of this active ingredient
combination for increasing the protein production in
human cells.
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Examples
1. Determination o:E the protein production in human
cells
Normal human keratinocytes were placed in culture in
24-well dishes in accordance with the supplier's
instructions (PRObZO CELL) (5% of C02, 37°C, saturated
water vapor atmo:>phere) and placed in subconfluence
with the substances dissolved in the medium. After 24
hours, the total protein was determined in accordance
with Low_ra (n - E. wells). The total protein is a
measure of the biomass produced, which can be regarded
as a characteristic value of the vitality of the cell.
The compositions investigated and the results obtained
for the protein forrnation are given in the table below.
Mixture C1 is a phy:>.iological sodium chloride solution
diluted by a factor of 10. Unless stated otherwise, all
amounts are parts by weight.
C1 C2 C3 El
Components:
~ Sodium chloride 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09
~ Biotin - 0.00001 - 0.00001
~ Phytodermine~ 1 - - 0.5 0.5
~ Water <- - - - - ad 100 - - - - - - - - ->
Amount of protein formed [~] 100 98 99 138
Proteins from the soybean (hydroxyproline-:rich
glycoproteins as existensins, arabinose galactans
as proteoglycan equivalents and proline-rich glyco-
proteins from the plant matrix of the soybean in
natural distribution: INCI name: Soybean (Glycine
Soya) protein; (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr.
Kurt Richter)
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2. Working Examples
Unless stated otfzerwise, all amounts are parts by
weight.
2.1 Hair tonic
Biotin 0.005
Phytodermin° 0.5
D-panthenol 0.2
Gluadin~ W 20~' 0.1
Cremophor~ RH 403 0.3
Perfume oil 0.15
Ethanol 30.0
Water ad 100
Wheat protein hydrolysate (20% of active substance
in water; INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolized Wheat
Protean (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol
(and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (HENKEL)
Hydrogenated caw>t:or oil + 45 EO (INCI name: PEG-40
Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)
2.2 Hair tonic
Biotin 0.003
Phytodermin~ 0.3
D-panthenol 0.1
Honey extract HS 25E.0 G4 0.2
Gluadin° W 405 0.1
0
Carbopol ETD 2020' 0.1
Cremophor~ RH 40 0.3
Perfume oil 0.15
Isopropanol 35.0
Water ad 100
Honey extract (12-150 of active substance; INCI
name : honey ) ( (~RAU AROMAT I C S )
Wheat protein hydrolysate (40% of active substance
in water; INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolized Wheat
Protean (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol
(and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (HENKEL)
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Polyacrylic acid copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/-
C10-30 Alkyl A:~ry.late Crosspolymer) (GOODRICH)
