Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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A GARMENT
The present invention relates to a garment, in particular but not exclusively
a brassiere and to a method of constructing a garment.
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a garment
having a body formed from a weft knitted fabric having courses and wales,
the body including at least one first fabric zone separated from at least one
second fabric zone in the coursewise direction, the fabric having a first set
of knitted courses extending continuously through the first and second
to fabric zones and for each second fabric zone a second set of knitted
courses
extending through the respective second fabric zone only, the second set of
courses comprising an elastomeric yarn, and for each second zone the
knitted fabric adjacent to the terminal ends of the second set of courses
including a filling yarn which is located to extend across a predetermined
number of wales so as to prevent run back of said second set of courses.
Preferably the body is formed from a weft knitted tubular blank, preferably
knitted on a circular knitting machine.
2o According to another aspect of the invention there is provided a method of
producing a garment from a weft knitted fabric having a plurality of courses
and wales, the method including, knitting said fabric from first and second
sets of knitted courses to produce first and second fabric zones separated in
the coursewise direction, said f rst set of knitted courses extending
continuously through the first and second zones and the second set of
courses being knit for each second zone as partial courses extending
through the respective second zone only, and for each second zone
introducing a filler yarn into the knitted fabric which extends over a
predetermined number of wales adjacent to the terminal ends of the second
3o set of courses so as to prevent run back of said second set of course.
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According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
weft knitted tubular blank for forming a garment as defined above.
s Various aspects of the present invention are hereinafter described with
reference to the accompanying drawings; in which:-
Figure 1 is a schematic perspective view of a brassiere according to
an embodiment of the present invention;
Figure 2 is a section along line II-II in Figure l;
to Figure 3 is a schematic rear view of a breast cup of the brassiere
shown in Figure l;
Figure 4 is a development of a tubular blank for forming the
brassiere of Figure 1.
15 Referring initially to Figures l to 3 there is shown a brassiere 10
including a
body 11 having a pair of breast cups 12 located at the front of the brassiere
10, and a back band 14 which extends from the outer side of each cup 12
and around the rear of the brassiere 10.
2o A pair of shoulder straps 16 are provided which extend upwardly from each
breast cup 12 to the upper edge 15 of the back band 14.
The body 11 is formed from a weft knitted fabric having courses which
extend around the body 11 in the direction of arrows C, i.e. the courses
2s encircle the body of the wearer when the brassiere 10 is being worn.
The fabric portion 11 a which forms band 14 is therefore integrally
connected (i.e. it is a continuous extension) of the fabric l 1b which forms
the breast cups 12.
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Preferably the breast cups 12 each include a cup insert 18 which is provided
to give shape to the breast cup 12. Preferably the cup insert 18 is a
laminated structure comprising a central plastics foam layer having a
polyester or cotton fabric layer bonded on each face of the foam layer.
Preferably the lower edge 20 of the body 11 is defined by edge banding 22
which is folded over and seamed to the fabric of the body I I .
Similarly the upper edge 15 of the body I I is defined by edge banding 23
Io which is folded over and seamed to the fabric of the body 11.
Both edge bandings 22 and 23 are preferably formed from an elasticated
tape and serve to protect the edges of the fabric of body 1I from
unravelling.
IS
Preferably portions 23a of bandings 23 extend upwardly from the cups 12 in
order to define straps 16.
Preferably each cup insert 18 is provided along its lower edge 26 with a
2o tubular band 27 which houses a reinforcement wire. Preferably the entire
upper edges of each insert 18 is attached along the upper edge of the body
11 by edge banding 23 and is attached partially along its lower edge to the
lower edge of the body l I by banding 22. The lower edge portions 30
inbetween the upper and lower edges of the body 11 are preferably left
2s unattached to the body 11.
Preferably the body 11 is formed from a single layer of knitted fabric so that
band 14 comprises a single layer of knitted fabric and, as more clearly seen
in Figure 2, each cup 12 comprises an outer, single, layer of weft knitted
3o fabric l 1b and an inner cup insert 18.
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As seen in Figure l, the fabric portions 11 a, 1 1b forming the body 11
extend continuously around the body in the coursewise direction, i.e. the
body 11 is a continuous tube.
s
It will be appreciated that, if desired, the band 14 may be split, for example
along line S for the incorporation of a clasp to enable portions of the back
band 14 to be detachably secured together.
to A blank 50 for forming the body 11 is illustrated in Figure 4.
The blank 50 is preferably knit on a circular knitting machine and so is
tubular. The blank 50 is illustrated in Figure 4 as a development for ease of
illustration (i.e. edges EI, E2 are in fact joined together).
is
The blank 50 is knitted so as to have an upper edge 51 (which is preferably
defined by a tubular welt 52) and a lower edge 53 which is preferably
pressed off the knitting machine prior to knitting welt 52 of the next blank.
2o A marking yarn is preferably knitted-in using the patterning control of the
knitting machine in order to define upper and lower marking lines 56, 57 for
defining the outline of the body 11 along which a cutting operation can be
performed for forming the body 11.
2s The upper marking line 56 preferably includes a first pair of pinnacle
shaped portions 60, and a second pair of pinnacle shaped portions 61. The
first pair of portions 60 define points of attachment of the straps 16 to the
brassiere cups 12 and the second pair of portions 61 define points of
attachment of the straps 16 to the back band 14.
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Preferably alignment markings 65 are knitted-in along marking lines 56 and
57. The alignment markings 65, after cutting of the body 11 from blank 50
enable an operative to align corresponding markings on the inserts 18 to
ensure that the inserts 18 are correctly positioned prior to the connection to
s the body 11.
Preferably linear markings 58 are provided to assist positioning of the blank
50 on a former (not shown) for heat setting of the blank after knitting and
prior to cutting along lines 56, 57.
to
In order to provide the necessary performance characteristics required for
the body 11 to act as a brassiere, the fabric portions 11a, llb are knit to
provide the required stretch extension in both the course and walewise
directions and to provide the desired elastic stretch recovery.
is
Preferably for the fabric portion 11 a forming the back band 14, the knitted
structure is such as to provide greater coursewise stretch recovery than the
fabric 1 1b forming the cups 12.
2o This is preferably achieved by introducing additional partial courses of an
elastomeric yarn in the region of fabric portion 11 a.
Accordingly, when knitting blank 50 on a circular knitting machine, a first
set of knitted courses are provided which extend continuously around the
2s blank S0, i.e. they extend continuously through fabric portion 11 a into
and
through fabric portion 1 1b.
When knitting portion 11 a, a second set of knitted courses are provided
which extend partially around the blank, i.e. only extend through the back
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band 14 from boundary BI to boundary Ba between knitted portions 11a,
1 1b.
Preferably each partial course defining the second set of courses is separated
s from the next adjacent partial course by courses defining the first set of
continuous courses.
Preferably each partial course is separated from the next partial course by at
least one continuous course, preferably by at least 3 continuous courses.
For example, when using an 8 feed circular knitting machine, yarns knitting
the continuous courses may be introduced on feeds 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8 and
yarns knitting the partial courses may be introduced on feeds 2 and 6.
1s Preferably the continuous courses of the first set are knit on every needle
with a plain knit construction.
Preferably the partial courses of the second set are knit with a miss-knit
structure, preferably a knit 1 miss-knit 3 rotation.
Preferably the partial courses of the second set are knit such that the
knitted
wale on one course is on a different wale to the adjacent partial course.
A suitable knitted structure for the fabric portion 11 a on an 8 feed machine
iS
Course
I X X X X X X X X
2 X - - - X - - - repeat
3 X X X X X X X X
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4 X X X X X X X X
s x x x X x x x x
6 - - X - - - X - repeat
7 X X X X X X X X
8 X X X X x X X X
X = plain stitch
- = miss-knit
s Preferably for each course comprising the, first set (i.e. courses l, 3, 4,
s, 7
and 8 in the above example) two yarns are plated together, viz. a non-
elastomeric yarn and an elastomeric yarn.
Preferably the non-elastomeric yarn is a coloured yarn which lies on the
to face of the fabric. Preferably the non-elastomeric yarn is a 78 dtex 68
filament polyamide yarn and the elastomeric yarn is a 22 dtex lycra (RTM)
core covered with a 44 dtex 20 filament polyamide yarn.
Preferably the elastomeric yarn is floated across selected Wales on the face
1s of the fabric to define a desired pattern.
Preferably for each partial course of the second set (i.e. courses 2 and 6 in
the above example) an elastomeric yarn is used which is preferably of a
higher count (i.e. dtex value) than the elastomeric yarn used in the first set
20 of courses. Preferably, for the second set of courses, the elastomeric yam
comprises a 78 dtex lycra (RTM) core covered with a 22 dtex 7 filament
polyamide yarn.
Preferably as indicated in the above example, the elastomeric yarn is floated
2s over three adjacent Wales in order to improve the elastic recovery
properties
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of fabric portion 11 a. It will be appreciated that other miss-knit
constructions for this purpose may be used. e.g. knit 2 miss-knit 3.
It will be appreciated that at boundaries B1, BZ the partial courses of the
s second set terminate, i.e. yarn ends are located.
In order to prevent the partial courses from running back, a filling yarn is
preferably knit-in with the elastomeric yarn on each partial course over a
predetermined number of needles indicated in Figure 4 by regions FY.
to Preferably the number of needles over which the filling yarn.is introduced
is
in the range of 8 to 25 needles or about 0.5 to 1.5 cm of fabric.
The filling yarn is preferably a non-elastomeric yarn which is of a
sufficiently high count to cause the knitted stitches of the second set of
15 courses to be tightly gripped with stitches in the adjacent courses of the
first
set. Preferably the yarn count for the filling yarn is also chosen so as to be
not too high that it becomes visible on the face of the fabric. Preferably,
for
the example given above, the filling yarn is a 44 dtex 13 filament polyamide
yarn.
In the example given above, each course of the second set is separated from
the adjacent course of the second set by three successive courses of the first
set.
It is to be appreciated that the courses of the second set may be separated by
less or more than three successive courses of the first set. Also, it is
envisaged that groups of successive courses of the second set may be
separated by one or more successive courses of the first set.
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In the above described embodiment, formation of a simple blank 50 on a
circular knitting machine is preferred in order to provide ease of handling
and sizing consistency during subsequent handling operations.
s It is however envisaged that blanks 50 may be formed on the knitting
machine as a continuous string of blanks which are subsequently separated
from one another.
It is to be appreciated that the brassiere 10 illustrated and described with
1o reference to Figures 1 to 4 is an example of a garment which may be
produced in accordance with the present invention.
In this respect, it will be appreciated that fabric portions l la, 1 1b
constitute
separate zones in the tubular body 11 which are separated in the coursewise
~s direction and which exhibit different degrees of elastic stretch recovery.
The different degrees of elastic stretch recovery is achieved by the
incorporation of partial courses of elastomeric yarn into the zone
represented by fabric portion 11 a.
2o In other words, fabric portions 1 1b constitute a first zone having a
relatively
lower elastic stretch recovery and fabric portions 11 a constitute a second
zone having a relatively higher elastic stretch recovery. In the garment
example of Figures 1 to 4, the tubular body 11 has two zones only, viz one
first coursewise zone and one second coursewise zone. It will be
2s appreciated that in other garments, more than two coursewise zones may be
provided, e.g. two or more second coursewise zones may be provided ,
separated by two or more first coursewise zones.
It will therefore be appreciated that other types of garment may be produced
3o by knitting a blank 50 having partial courses of elastomeric yarn to define
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one or more second coursewise zones so as to provide in the finished
garment fabric portions at desired locations which have a greater degree of
elastic stretch recovery than neighbouring fabric portions. For example,
the garments may be a pair of briefs or a crop top.
