UTILISATION D'UN ECRAN SOLAIRE AU POLYSILOXANE POUR AMELIORER LA RETENTION DE PARFUM DES CHEVEUX

USE OF A POLYSILOXANE SUNSCREEN TO ENHANCE FRAGRANCE RETENTION ON HAIR

Abrégé français

L'invention concerne un écran solaire au polysiloxane utilisé comme agent de fixation de parfum dans les compositions de laque capillaire.

Abrégé anglais

The use of a polysiloxane sunscreen as a fragrance fixating agent in hairspray
compositions.

Revendications

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What is claimed is
1. The use of a polysiloxane sunscreen as a fragrance fixating agent in
hairspray
compositions.
2. The use as in claim 1 wherein the polysiloxane sunscreen is of the formula
Ia or Ib
<IMGS>
wherein R and R" are C1-10alkyl or phenyl;
X and X' are C1-10alkyl, phenyl or a group Y;
r is an average number from 0 to 150;
s is an average number from 0 to 30; where, when s = 0 at least one of X and
X' is Y;
the sum of r and s is .gtoreq. 3;
t is an average number from 0 to 10;
v is an average number from 1 to 10;
the sum of v and t is .gtoreq. 3;
Y is a group of the formula (a) or (b)
<IMGS>
wherein
R1 and R2 are C1-6alkyl;
R5 is hydrogen or C1-6alkyl;
Z' and Z" are, independently, hydrogen, hydroxy, C1-6alkyl or C1-6alkoxy; and
p is an integer from 1 to 6;
or a group of the formula (c)

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<IMG>
wherein R3, R4 is hydrogen or C1-6-alkyl.
3. The use according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the polysiloxane sunscreen is of
the formula
<IMG>
wherein s is ca. 4 and r is ca. 60, and which contains ca. 20 % of the
alkylene isomer (cf. the
general formula (b) above) and which is referred to hereinafter as PARSOL®
SLX.
4. The use of a polysiloxane sunscreen absorbing in UV-A and/or UV-B and/or
broadband
and mixtures thereof as a fragrance fixating agent in hairspray compositions.
5. The use as in any one of claims 1-4 wherein the amount of the polysiloxane
sunscreen is
from about 0.01 to 10 wt.-%.
6. The invention as described hereinbefore, especially with reference to the
Examples.

Description

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USE OF A POLYSILOXANE SUNSCREEN TO ENHANCE FRAGANCE RETENTION ON HAIR
The present invention relates to an improvement in fragrance retention on hair
treated
with hairspray compositions.
Perfumes are a conventional component of hairsprays. In accordance with the
present
invention it has been found that polysiloxane sunscreens improve the retention
on hair of
fragrances contained in hairsprays.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to the use of a polysiloxane
sunscreen as a
fragrance fixating agent in hairspray compositions. The polysiloxane sunscreen
may be any
conventional polysiloxane sunscreen as disclosed, e.g., in EP 392,882, EP
358,584, EP
l0 538,431, and EP 709,080. Examples of such polysiloxane sunscreens are those
of the
general formula Ia or Ib
R" R
R" R R"
X Si-O-~--~-Si-O-~Si-X' (Ia) Si-O~-t --~-Si-O ~ (Ib)
I I I R" Y
R» Y R»
wherein R and R" are C1_loalkyl or phenyl;
X and X' are Cl_loalkyl, phenyl or a group Y;
r is an average number from 0 to 150;
s is an average number from 0 to 30; where, when s = 0 at least one of X and
X' is Y;
the sum of r and s is >_ 3;
t is an average number from 0 to 10;
v is an average number from 1 to 10;
2o the sum of v and t is >_ 3;
Y is a group of the formula (a) or (b)

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Rs C _Rs
I I
\ CH
I
.(CH2)P (
H2)p
O O
Z" Z" ~ \ Z,
\ Z, (a) (b)
~ /
/
COORi \ COOR'
COOR2 COOR2
wherein
Rl and R2 are Cl_6alkyl;
RS is hydrogen or Cl_6alkyl;
Z' and Z" are, independently, hydrogen, hydroxy, Cl_6alkyl or Cl_6alkoxy; and
p is an integer from 1 to 6;
or a group of the formula (c)
CH2
HC- R4
I
CH2
\ OH
/ N~N
R3 I
N
wherein R3, R4 is hydrogen or CI_6-alkyl.
to Compounds of the formula Ia and Ib wherein Y is a group (a) or (b) and
their preparation
are disclosed, e.g., in EP 538,431 and EP 679,645. Compounds of the formula Ia
or Ib
wherein Y is a group (c) and their preparation are disclosed, e.g., in EP
354,145,
EP 388,218, EP 392,883 and WO 94106,404.
Preferred are polysiloxane sunscreens of the formula Ia wherein s is an
average number of
1s 3 to 10 and r is an average number of 20 to 80. Most preferred are
polysiloxane sunscreens
of the formula Ia wherein s is ca. 4 and r is ca. 60, and wherein about 80 %
of the groups Y
are of the alkylidene structure (a) and about 20 % of the groups Y are of the
alkylene struc-
ture (b), such as disclosed in EP 709,080 and referred to therein as
"Polysiloxane A".

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Particularly preferred for the purpose of the present invention is the
polysiloxane
sunscreen of the formula
CH CH
(CH3)3SI-f -O-SI-~-~-O-SI~CH3
H C~C~CH CH3
z~ z
C(O)OC2H5
C~C(~~~C2H5
H
wherein s is ca. 4 and r is ca. 60, and which contains ca. 20 % of the
alkylene isomer (cf. the
general formula (b) above) and which is referred to hereinafter as PARSOL~
SLX. The
preparation of the polysiloxane sunscreen PARSOL~ SLX is disclosed in more
detail in EP
709 080 where it is referred to as "Polysiloxane A".
The amount of the polysiloxane sunscreen in a hairspray for use in accordance
with the
present invention is about 0.01 to about 10 wt.-%, preferably about 0.1 to
about 5 wt.-%.
to The perfume can be any perfume or mixture thereof from natural or synthetic
origin
including essential oils especially those which conventionally find use in
hairspray
compositions and may be present in the hairspray composition in an amount of
e.g., 0.001
to 50 wt.-%, particularly about 0.01 to about 10 wt.-%, and preferably about
0.1 to about 5
wt.-%.
15 The hairspray composition can be a non-aerosol spray lotion which is
sprayed
mechanically or an aerosol which is sprayed with a propellant. Further, the
hairspray
composition may contain, besides the perfume and the polysiloxane sunscreen
fragrance
fixation agent additional components conventionally used in hairspray
compositions such
as vitamins, e.g. biotin, vitamin E or phytantriol; propellants, e.g. DME, F
152 , propane,
2o butane or pentane; conventional cosmetic solvents such as ethanol and
water; styling
polymers; silicones for hair care such as dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone or
silicone
emulsions; neutralizing agents, e.g. AMP; preservatives; and further UV-A and
UV-B
absorbing agents, e.g. dibenzoylmethane, cinnamate, camphor or
phenylbenzimidazol
derivatives to name a few as specified in EP 979 645.
25 The following Examples illustrate the invention further.
Example 1: Propellant Spray

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A) . Luviflex Silk 4.80
Ethanol96% 50.63
Luviskol Plus 1.50
AMP 0.57
Perfume 1.00
PARSOL~ SLX 1.00
Panthenol 0.50
B) Propane/Butane 40.00
100.00
A solution of phase A) is filled in an aerosol can with phase B) as a
propellant.
Example 2: Propellant Spray
Wt.-
A) Amphomer 5.00
AMP 0.82
Ethanol 66.18
PARSOL~ SLX 2.00
Perfume 1.00
B) Propane/Butane 25.00
1VV.VV
The solution of phase A) is filled in an aerosol can with phase B)as a
propellant.
Example 3: Propellant Spray
wt.-
A) Ethano196% 50.50
AMP 0.50
Perfume 0.50
Panthenol 0.50
Cyclomethicone1.00
PARSOL~ SLX 1.00
B) Luviset CA 6.00
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C) DME 40.00

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100.00
Phase B) is added to the solution of phase A) and the mixture is filled in an
aerosol can
with phase C) as a propellant.
Example 4: Pump Spray
wt.-%
A) Ethanol 88.20
Perfume 2.00
Amphomer 2.00
B) AMP 95% 0.35
Vitamine PP 0.20
Phytantriol 0.25
Ethylpanthenol 1.00
PARSOL~ SLX 5.00
Phenyltrimethicone
1.00
1VV.VV
The solution of phase A) is mixed with phase B) and the mixture is filled in a
pump spray
can.
Example 5: Sensory panel evaluation of fragrance fixation by PARSOL~SLX
Commercially available, bleached blond hair, flat swatches, 10 cm long were
used. The
1o tresses were pre-washed with a commercial shampoo prior to use.
Each hair tress was immersed in 20.0 grams of the spray in a 50 ml glass
cylinder. The
cylinder was shaken for 1 minute. The tresses were removed, suspended for 2
minutes,
combed 10 times from root to end in a downward motion to remove the excess
solution,
and allowed to dry in ambient conditions for 15 minutes. The hair tresses were
then
submitted for fragrance evaluation.
The following spray formulas were tested:
FormulaEthanol Fragrance Fragrance PARSOL~SLX [%]
[%] A [%] B [%]
1 99.5 0.5 - -
2 ~ 98.5 0.5 - ~ 1.0

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3 99.5 ~~ - 0.5 -
4 98.5 - 0.5 1.0
Fragrance A: "Lemarome" (contains only one fragrance)
Fragrance B: "Canangan" (a complex mixture of fragrances)
Both Fragrances were supplied from Givaudan Roure
A panel consisting of 10 persons were asked to compare 2 tresses each (Placebo
and Test)
in regard to fragrance intensity. The perceived intensity was plotted on a 10
cm horizontal
line by positioning a mark on the line, with the start of the line (0 cm)
representing no
perceptible odour and the end of the line ( 10 cm) representing a strong
odour. The
position of the mark was then read into a numerical value between 0 and 10.
The
1o individual ratings and the average of the perceived intensity along with
the uncertainty at
the P=95% level are shown in tables 1 and 2 below.
Table l: Results obtained with Fragrance A (Lemarome)
Test person Formula 1 reported Formula 2 reported change
value value [%]
1 2.4 6.8 183
2 4.6 0.6 -87
3 9.3 0.7 -92
4 2.6 7.6 192
5 1.9 3.8 100
6 1.5 8.0 433
7 0.5 6.1 1120
8 1.4 0.9 -36
9 1.1 5.0 355
1.9 5.3 179
Average 2.72 4.48 235
Standard deviation2.56 2.86 -
Uncertainty 1.83 2.05 -
Uncertainty (P = 95%, n=10, Student distribution)
As can be seen from Table 1, hair treated with 1 % PARSOL~SLX (Formula 2 hair
tress)
was rated significantly higher in terms of perceived fragrance intensity than
the placebo
(Formula 1) hair. Further, seven out of ten persons reported that hair treated
with

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PARSOL~SLX had a stronger fragrance. On average, the rating of the fragrance
intensity of
the PARSOL~SLX treated hair was 2.4 times higher than the rating for placebo.
Table 2: Results obtained with Fragrance B (Canangan):
Test person Formula 3 reported Formula 4 reported change
value value [%]
1 6.7 9.0 34
2 3.4 7.0 106
3 3.1 5.2 68
4 2.4 5.6 133
3.5 9.2 163
6 8.6 3.8 -56
7 2.4 9.6 300
8 2.6 5.7 119
9 1.2 6.3 425
5.4 7.2 33
Average 3.93 6.86 133
Standard deviation2.28 1.92
Uncertainty 1.63 1.37
Uncertainty (P = 95%, n=10, Student distribution)
As can be seen from Table 2, hair treated with 1 % PARSOL~SLX (Formula 2 hair
tress)
was rated significantly higher in terms of perceived fragrance intensity than
the placebo
(Formula 1) hair. Further, nine out of ten persons reported that hair treated
with
PARSOL~SLX had a stronger fragrance. On average, the rating of the fragrance
intensity of
the PARSOL~SLX treated hair was 1.3 times higher than the rating for placebo.