Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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Rinsable Skin Conditioning Compositions
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to rinsable, skin conditioning compositions.
More
particularly it relates to skin conditioning compositions comprising high
internal phase emulsions
substantially free of surfactant.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Skin conditioning compositions that provide moisturizing benefits are known.
Many of
these compositions are aqueous systems comprising an emulsified conditioning
oil or other
similar material stabilized with surfactant. Typically, skin moisturizing
compositions are in the
form of lotions meant to be applied to the skin after bathing and throughout
the day if
reapplication is necessary.
Skin is made up of several layers of cells, which coat and protect the keratin
and collagen
fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of
these layers, referred to
as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25nm protein bundles
surrounded by 8nm
thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the
stratum corneum
membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum
corneum), destroy its
integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough
feel and may
eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin,
creating irritation.
It is now recognized that maintaining the proper water gradient across the
stratum
corneum is important to its functionality. Most of this water, which is
sometimes considered to be
the stratum corneum's plasticizer, comes from inside the body. If the humidity
is too low, such as
in a cold climate, insufficient water remains in the outer layers of the
stratum corneum to properly
plasticize the tissue, and the skin begins to scale and becomes itchy. Skin
permeability is also
decreased somewhat when there is inadequate water across the stratum corneum.
On the other
hand, exposure to high water concentration for long periods of time on the
outside of the skin
causes the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb three to five times its own
weight of bound water.
This swells and puckers the skin and results in approximately a two to three
fold increase in the
permeability of the skin to water and moisturizer molecules. In the shower or
bath, as skin
becomes hydrated, this is recognized as an ideal time to deliver moisturizer
to the skin since
absorption of the moisturizer will be high.
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It is further desirable to deliver the above skin conditioning benefits via an
in-the-shower
or in-the-bath lotion. Unfortunately, in the shower/bath, moisturizers are
often readily rinsed
from the skin. This is particularly true when surfactant is present.
Thus, a need exists for compositions, which will effectively deposit
moisturizers and /or
other skin benefit agents in the shower and/or bath and thereby assist the
stratum corneum in
maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance
in spite of
deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and
recreation.
Desirable properties of such skin care compositions are to provide good skin
feel, water
retention, moisturization, absorption, and rub-in characteristics. One way of
delivering high
moisturization to the skin is to incorporate polyhydric alcohol-like humectant
materials such as
glycerine into a composition. Skin compositions with high levels of polyhydric
alcohols and
therefore high levels of moisturization when left-on the skin, however, are
readily rinsed away in
the shower and/or bath by the consumer. An alternative way of delivering
desirable benefits to
the skin is to incorporate oil-soluble skin care ingredients such as
petrolatum into skin care
compositions. Compositions, which incorporate the oil as an oil-in-water
emulsion, must stabilize
the emulsion which is generally done with surfactant (typically nonionic
surfactant for lotions and
anionic or amphoteric surfactant for lathering products). Again, such
compositions when
stabilized with surfactant, deposit poorly on the skin due to emulsification
of the oil by the
surfactant.
Another method previously used to deposit oil more effectively is to deliver
the oil via a
water-in-oil emulsion. Such compositions however, have big trade-offs in terms
of poor (greasy)
aesthetics, poor spreading on skin and creation of unsafe, slippery shower
and/or tub floors.
It is a tremendous challenge to deposit effective amounts of skin conditioning
ingredients
on skin via a rinsable skin conditioning composition that also has excellent
consumer acceptance.
While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the oil soluble
conditioning agents are
easily emulsified by the surfactant present in most body wash and body lotion
compositions.
Therefore, the conditioning agents are rinsed away during the personal
cleansing process.
Although attempts have been made to formulate two-in-on body wash products
that not only
cleanse the skin, but additionally deliver skin moisturization, they don't
generally deposit
sufficient amount of skin conditioning ingredients to deliver the same level
of skin moisturization
as a leave-on lotion. This inadequate conditioning leaves consumers with an
unmet need.
Accordingly, the need remains for a rinsable, skin-conditioning composition
that can
provide improved conditioning and other skin care benefits to human skin.
Additionally, there
remains a need for a rinsable, skin-conditioning composition which exhibits
pleasing tactile
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properties and increased deposition of skin conditioning and/or skin care
agents. The need also
remains for in-shower and/or bath lotion compositions which show low levels of
stickiness or
tackiness whilst providing high levels of moisturization, as well as providing
excellent skin feel,
skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.
It has now been unexpectedly found that compositions comprising high internal
phase oil-
in-water emulsions show excellent oil deposition, excellent moisturization
benefits, with low
levels of stickiness or tack and superior product stability. These
compositions can be formulated
at surprisingly high viscosities while maintaining excellent spreadability on
wet skin. The
compositions also show good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness
benefits. Other
benefits in using high internal phase emulsions are that they are very easy to
manufacture, they
give the formulated great control over oil droplet size, they are low
irritating and they allow for
emulsification of previously incompatible materials in the same product. These
and other benefits
will be discussed in greater detail below.
The present invention provides rinsable, skin-conditioning compositions, which
may
further comprise skin benefit agents. These compositions provide improved
aesthetics and skin
feel during and/or after application, and are especially useful in providing
improved deposition or
effectiveness of skin conditioning agents to the desired area of the skin. The
benefits of the
compositions of the present invention are further improved
The present invention further provides a method of conditioning the skin using
the
described compositions.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention meets the aforementioned needs by providing a rinsable
skin
conditioning composition comprising a an oil-in-water emulsion wherein the
composition has a
Deposition Efficiency (DE) of at least about 2% wherein DE = [Wafter Wo] / L =
r before - W0] X 100.
The present invention further relates to a rinsable skin conditioning
composition comprising (a) at
least one high internal phase emulsion comprising (i) an oil; (ii) a
stabilizer; (iii) water; and (b)
the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care ingredients.
The present invention further relates to a rinsable skin conditioning
composition wherein
the composition comprises (i) from about 20% to about 90% by weight of the
oil; (ii) from about
0.1% to about 10% by weight of the stabilizer; (iii) from about 9.5% to about
79.5% by weight of
water; and (iv) from about 0% to about 2% by weight of a perfume
The present invention further relates to an article of commerce comprising a
container
comprising a rinse off skin conditioning composition, which provides skin
conditioning and/or
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moisturizing benefits to the human skin when applied in the shower and/or bath
and rinsed and
comprises I. at least one high internal phase emulsion comprising an oil, a
stabilizer, water and II.
the balance being conventional cosmetic and slain care ingredients, wherein
the composition is
substantially free of surfactant and wherein said container has instructions
for conditioning and
moisturizing the skin comprising the instructions to wash skin and rinse as
normal, smooth
product onto skin while out of the flow of water, rinse briefly, and pat dry
with towel.
The present invention further relates to a method of conditioning the skin
comprising the
steps of (A) preparing a rinsable skin condition composition comprising at
least one high internal
phase emulsion comprising I. (i) an oil; (ii) a stabilizer; (iii) water; and
U. the balance being
conventional cosmetic and skin care ingredients, wherein the composition is
substantially free of
surfactant; (B) applying the product of step (A) to wet human skin; and (C)
rinsing the product off
of the skin.
The citation of any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is
prior art with respect
to the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The specific embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail
below.
The term "ambient conditions" as used herein, unless otherwise specified,
refers to
surrounding conditions at one (1) atmosphere of pressure, 50% relative
humidity, and 25 C.
The term "skin conditioning composition" as used herein, unless otherwise
specified, refers
to the compositions of the present invention, wherein the compositions are
intended for topical
application to the skin.
The term "rinsable" as used herein, unless otherwise specified, refers to
compositions that
can be both rinsed off the skin after application or left on depending upon
the desire of the user.
All percentages, parts and ratios as used herein are by weight of the total
composition,
unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed
ingredients are based on the
active level and, therefore, do not include solvents or by-products that may
be included in
commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.
The skin conditioning compositions and methods of the present invention can
comprise,
consist of, or consist essentially of, the essential elements and limitations
of the invention
described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients,
components, or limitations
described herein or otherwise useful in skin conditioning compositions
intended for topical
application to the hair or skin.
Product Form
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The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention are
liquid or semi-
liquid, cream or mousse compositions intended for topical application to the
skin. The product
forms contemplated for purposes of defining the compositions and methods of
the present
invention are typically rinsable formulations, by which is meant the product
is applied topically
to the skin and then subsequently (i.e., within minutes) rinsed away with
water, or otherwise
wiped off using a substrate or other suitable removal means. However, it is
contemplated that the
subject compositions may be used as leave-on lotions as well without deviating
from the spirit of
the invention.
All elements of the present invention will be described in detail hereafter.
High Internal Phase Emulsion
The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention comprise
at least one
high internal phase (HIP) emulsion comprising an oil, a stabilizer, and water.
The compositions
are substantially free of surfactant including anionic, amphoteric,
zwitterionic, cationic or
nonionic surfactant. By "substantially free" is meant that the compositions
comprise less than
about 3%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%,
even more
preferably less than about 0.25%, and most preferably less than about 0.1%
surfactant.
Optionally, the compositions may contain other skin benefit agents and
conventional cosmetic or
skin care ingredients.
The main difference between HIP emulsions and conventional emulsions is that
HIP
emulsions use high oil-packing to build viscosity.
Oils
The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention typically
comprise
from about 20% to about 90% of oil, more preferably 25 to 70% oil, even more
preferably from
25 to 60% oil and most preferably from 30% to 40%. Oils suitable for use
herein include any
natural and synthetic materials with an overall solubility parameter less than
about 12.5
(cal/cm)0's, preferably less than about 11.5 (cal/cm3)0.5Solubility parameters
for the oils
described herein are determined by methods well known in the chemical arts for
establishing the
relative polar character of a material. A description of solubility parameters
and means for
determining them are described by C. D. Vaughn, "Solubility Effects in
Product, Package,
Penetration and Preservation" 103 Cosmetics and Toiletries 47-69, October
1988; and C. D.
Vaughn, "Using Solubility Parameters in Cosmetics Formulation", 36 J. Soc.
Cosmetic Chemists
319-333, September/October, 1988.
By "overall solubility parameter" is meant that it is possible to use oils
with higher
solubility parameters than 12.5 (cal/cm)o's if they are blended with other
oils to reduce the overall
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solubility parameter of the oil mixture to less than about 12.5
(cal/cm3)0.5For example, a small
portion of diethylene glycol (sol par = 13.61) could be blended with lanolin
oil (sol par = 7.3) and
a cosolublizing agent to create a mixture that has a solubility parameter of
less than
12.5(cal/cm)o.s
These oils include but are not limited to hydrocarbon oils and waxes,
silicones, fatty acid
derivatives, cholesterol, cholesterol derivatives, diglycerides,
triglycerides, vegetable oils,
vegetable oil derivatives, acetoglyceride esters, alkyl esters, alkenyl
esters, lanolin and its
derivatives, wax esters, beeswax derivatives, sterols and phospholipids, and
combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils and waxes suitable for use herein
include
petrolatum, mineral oil, micro-crystalline waxes, polyalkenes, paraffins,
cerasin, ozokerite,
polyethylene, perhydrosqualene, poly alpha olefins, hydrogenated
polyisobutenes and
combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of silicone oils suitable for use herein include
dimethicone
copolyol, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, mixed C1-C30 alkyl
polysiloxanes, phenyl
dimethicone, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. Preferred are non-
volatile silicones
selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol, mixed C1-C30 alkyl polysiloxane, and
combinations
thereof. Nonlimiting examples of silicone oils useful herein are described in
U.S. Patent No.
5,011,681 (Ciotti et al.).
Non-limiting examples of diglycerides and triglycerides suitable for use
herein include
castor oil, soy bean oil, derivatized soybean oils such as maleated soy bean
oil, safflower oil,
cotton seed oil, corn oil, walnut oil, peanut oil, olive oil, cod liver oil,
almond oil, avocado oil,
palm oil and sesame oil, vegetable oils, sunflower seed oil, and vegetable oil
derivatives; coconut
oil and derivatized coconut oil, cottonseed oil and derivatized cottonseed
oil, jojoba oil, cocoa
butter, and combinations thereof. In addition any of the above oils that have
been partially or fully
hydrogenated are also suitable.
Non-limiting examples of acetoglyceride esters suitable for use herein include
acetylated
monoglycerides.
Non-limiting examples of alkyl esters suitable for use herein include
isopropyl esters of
fatty acids and long chain esters of long chain fatty acids, e.g. SEFA
(sucrose esters of fatty
acids). Lauryl pyrolidone carboxylic acid, pentaerthritol esters, aromatic
mono, di or triesters,
cetyl ricinoleate, non-limiting examples of which incloude isopropyl
palmitate, isopropyl
myristate, cetyl riconoleate and stearyl riconoleate. Other examples are:
hexyl laurate, isohexyl
laurate, myristyl myristate, isohexyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl
oleate, hexadecyl stearate,
decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl
adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate,
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diisopropyl sebacate, acyl isononanoate lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate,
cetyl lactate, and
combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of alkenyl esters suitable for use herein include oleyl
myristate,
oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, and combinations thereof.
Non-limiting examples of lanolin and lanolin derivatives suitable for use
herein include
lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids,
isopropyl lanolate, acetylated
lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohols, lanolin alcohol linoleate, lanolin
alcohol riconoleate,
hydroxylated lanolin, hydrogenated lanolin and combinations thereof.
Still other suitable oils include milk triglycerides (e.g., hydroxylated milk
glyceride) and
polyol fatty acid polyesters.
Still other suitable oils include wax esters, non-limiting examples of which
include
beeswax and beeswax derivatives, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl
stearate, and
combinations thereof. Also useful are vegetable waxes such as camauba and
candelilla waxes;
sterols such as cholesterol, cholesterol fatty acid esters; and phospholipids
such as lecithin and
derivatives, sphingo lipids, ceramides, glycosphingo lipids, and combinations
thereof.
Stabilizers
The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention typically
comprise
from about 0.1% to about 10% of a stabilizer, preferably from about 0.5% to
about 5%, and more
preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%. Preferred stabilizers are any
stabilizers that reduce the
surface tension of water to not less 60 mN/m at 25 C as measured by standard
surface tension
apparati and methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art, for example
ASTM D1331-89
(2001) Method A, "Surface Tension". Preferred stabilizers exhibit a minimum
surface tension in
water of 60 mN/m or higher. Suitable stabilizers promote stability of the oil
in water emulsion by
inhibiting coalescence of the oil droplets, and/or inhibiting phase separation
of the oil and water
phases.
Some suitable stabilizers are Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
TM
Crosspolymer-Noveon), Pemulen TR-2 (Acrylates/ CIO-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer-
TM
Noveon), ETD 2020 (Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolym -Noveon),
Carbopol 1382
TM TM
(Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer-Noveon), Natrosol CS Plus 330,
430, Polysurf
TM
67 (Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose-Hercules), Aculyn 22 (Acrylates/ Steareth-20
Methacrylate
Copolymer-Rohm&Haas) Aculyn 25 (Acrylates/Laureth-25 Methacrylate copolymer-
Rohm&Haas), Aculyn 28 (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer
Rohm&Haas),
TM
Aculyn 46 (Peg-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI copolymer-Rohm&Haas) Stabylen 30
(Acrylates/
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TM
Vinyl Isodecanoate-3V), Structure 2001 (Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate
copolymer-National
Starch), Structure 3001 (Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate copolymer-National
Starch), Structure
Plus (Acrylates/Aminoacrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Peg 20 Itaconate copolymer-
National Starch,
TM
Quatrisoft LM-200 (Polyquaternium-24), the metal oxides of titanium, zinc,
iron, zirconium,
silicon, manganese, aluminium and cerium, polycarbonates, polyethers,
polyethylenes,
polypropylenes, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyacrylates,
cyclodextrins and
mixtures thereof.
Cyclodextrins are solubilized, water-soluble, uncomplexed cyclodextrins. As
used herein,
the term "cyclodextrin" includes any of the ]mown cyclodextrins such as
unsubstituted
cyclodextrins containing from six to twelve glucose units, especially, alpha-
cyclodextrin, beta-
cyclodextrin, gamma-cyclodextrin and/or their derivatives and/or mixtures
thereof.
Examples of preferred water-soluble cyclodextrin derivatives suitable for use
herein are
hydroxypropyl alpha-cyclodextrin, methylated alpha-cyclodextrin, methylated
beta-cyclodextrin,
hydroxyethyl beta-cyclodextrin, and hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin.
It is also preferable to use a mixture of cyclodextrins. Such mixtures can
complex with a
wider range of perfume molecules having a wider range of molecular sizes.
Preferably at least a
portion of the cyclodextrins is alpha-cyclodextrin and its derivatives
thereof, gamma-cyclodextrin
and its derivatives thereof, and/or derivatised beta-cyclodextrin, and
mixtures thereof.
Cyclodextrins particularly preferred for use herein are alpha cyclodextron,
beta
cyclodextron, hydroxypropyl alpha cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl beta
cyclodextrin, and a mixture
thereof.
Water
The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention typically
comprise
from about 9.5% to about 79.5% of water.
Perfume Oils
Preferred compositions of the present invention may optionally contain
perfume. Suitable
perfumes are those known to those skilled in the cosmetic and fragrance arts.
When present the
perfumes can be added to compositions according to the present invention via
conventional
methods. When added via conventional methods the perfume ingredients can be
added at
amounts from about 0% to about 2% relative to the entire composition.
It is especially desirable to add perfumes via a HIP emulsion. Without being
bound by
theory it is believed that perfumes incorporated via HIP emulsions deposit
onto the skin at higher
rates. Therefore, these perfumes may provide the present compositions with
longer lasting scents
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and thus provide a more pleasing experience for the consumer. The perfume
containing HIP
emulsion is prepared as described above and stabilized with the previously
listed stabilizers.
When incorporated via a separate HIP emulsion the HIP emulsion is formulated
with from about
20% to about 70% of perfume oil by weight of the HIP emulsion. It is often
advantageous to
include cyclodextrin in the perfume high internal phase emulsion as it can
provide residual, long
lasting fragrance on skin. The overall concentration of the perfume in the
total composition is
from 0% to about 2% regardless of the method for incorporation.
Gel Networks
The skin conditioning composition of the present invention may comprise a gel
network.
The gel network includes a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound and
water. The gel
network is typically characterized by a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to
about 40,000 cps,
preferably from about 10,000 cps to about 30,000 cps, and more preferably from
about 12,000 cps
TM
to about 28,000 cps, as measured at 250 C, by means of a Brookfield
Viscometer at shear rate of
1.0 rpm. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the
gel network significantly
improves deposition of the conditioning agents and/or other skin benefit
agents onto skin.
In a highly preferred embodiment, the gel network is a lamellar gel network,
which
provides improved skin feel, spreadability of the compositions, and other
substantial benefits.
Generally, the preferred cationic surfactants in the lamellar gel network
contain one or two long
chain (e.g.,C12-30) alkyl groups, and a tertiary or quaternary amine group.
Tertiary amine groups
having one or two C16-22allcyl chains are preferred.
Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention
include
materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14,
quatemium-l8,
quaternium- 1 8methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
Among the cationic surfactants preferred are those containing in the molecule
at least one alkyl
chain having at least 16 carbons.
Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants include:
dioleyolethyl
hydroxyethymonium methoulfate, behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride available,
for example,
TM TM
with trade name INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo
Kasei(Osaka, Japan); cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example,
with tradename
CA-2350 from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan), hydrogenated tallowalkyl trimethyl
ammonium
chloride, dialkyl (14-18) dirnethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl
ammonium
chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dirnethylammonium chloride, distearyl
dirnethyl
ammonium chloride, dicetyl dirnethylammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl)
dimethyl
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ammonium chloride,dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl direthyl
benzyl
ammoniumchloride, stearyl propyleneglycol phosphate dimethyl ammonium
chloride,stearoyl
ainidopropyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearoyl arnidopropyldirnethyl
(myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, and N-(stearoyl colarnino formylmethyl)
pyridinium
chloride.
Also preferred as cationic surfactants are hydrophilically substitutedcationic
surfactants in
which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether,
ester, amido, or amino
moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein
at least one of the RI"-
R' 04 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy
(preferably C,_C3
alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably Cl_C3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido,
hydroxyalkyl,
alkylester, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilically
substituted cationic
surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located
within the above
stated ranges. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilic ally substituted cationic
surfactants useful in
the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA
designations: quaternium-
16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33,quaternium-43,
quaternium-52,
quatemium-53, quatemium-56, quatemium-60,quaternium-61, quaternium-62,
quaternium-70,
quaternium-71, quaternium-72,quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen,
quaternium-
77, quaternium-78, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed
keratin,quatemium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quatemium-79 hydrolyzed
silk,quatemium-79
hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-
80,
quaternium-8 1, quatemium-82, quatemium-83,quaternium-84, and mixtures
thereof.
Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include
dialkylarnido
ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl
ethyl
hydroxyethylamonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyidimonium salt, and mixtures thereof;
for example,
TM
commercially, available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT
222,
VARIQUAT K121T and VARIQUAT 638 from WitcoTMChemicals (Greenwich, Connecticut,
M
USA), MACKPIRO KLP, MACKPIRO WLK MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPIRO
TM
NLW, MACKPIRO WWP, MACKPIRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from McIntyre, ETHOQUAD
TM
18/25, ETHOQUAD 0/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25,ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD
TM TM
from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel (Germany), and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas
(Wilmington, Delaware,io USA).
Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable
cationic
surfactants. The alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about to
about 22 carbon
atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted.
Particularly useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines. Such amines,
as useful
herein, include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine,
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stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldime:thylamine,
palmitamidopropyidimethylamine,
painzitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine,
palniitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine,
behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine,
behenamidoethyldimethylamine,
arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine,
arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidarnidoethyldimethylamine, and
diethylammoethylstearamide.
Also useful aredimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine,
tridecylamine,ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5
moles ofethylene
oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, andarachidylbehenylamine.
These amines are
typically used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species.
The preferred acid
useful herein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic
acid, succinic acid,
acetic acid,fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic
hydrochloride, L-aspartic acid,and
mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
The fatty alcohol compound and cationic surfactant are included in the skin
conditioning
composition at a level by weight of the total composition from about 0.1% to
about 20%,
preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to
about 10%.
The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 22
carbon atoms,
preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are
saturated and can bed
straight or branched chain alcohols.
Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol, behenyl
alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30
carbon atoms,
preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from
about 16 to about
22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or
branched chain acids. Also
included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the
requirements herein.
Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of
fatty acids
include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid,
and mixtures thereof.
Solid fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl
alcohol,
stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred. By "pure" herein,
what is meant is that
the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about
95%. These single
compounds of high purity may provide good rinsability from the skin when the
consumer rinses
off the composition.
Commercially available solid fatty compounds useful herein include: cetyl
alcohol,
TM
stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having trade names KONOL series available
from Shin-
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nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available fromNOF (Tokyo, Japan);
pure behenyl
TM
alcohol having trade name 1-DOCOSANOLavailable from Wako Chemical (Osaka,
Japan),
TM
various fatty acids having trade names NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago,,
Illinois, USA),
HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA), and DERMA available
from
Vevy (Genova, Italy).
While poly fatty alcohols may form the gel network, mono fatty alcohols are
preferred.
Either the cationic surfactant, and/or the solid fatty compound may be first
mixed with,
suspended, and/or dissolved in water when forming a gel network.
Deposition Efficiency:
Compositions of the present invention provide deposition of the skin
conditioning or skin
benefit agents onto skin with a Deposition Efficiency (DE) of at least about
2%, preferably from
about 3% to about 40%, more preferably from about 4% to about 30%, and most
preferably from
about 4% to about 20%, by weight of the total composition, wherein DE =
[Wafter` Wo] / [Wbefore -
Wo] x 100. Deposition Efficiency is determined using the method described
below.
The test method described below is used to determine the level of deposition
of skin
conditioning and other optional skin benefit agents.
Clear 3 mil thick polyethylene sheets are cut to 21.5 cm x 32.0 cm. Both sides
of the
sheets are sprayed with ethanol, wiped with a paper towel and allowed to hang
dry for a few
hours. The initial weight of each sheet is measured using a 4-digit analytical
balance and
recorded as Wo.
A piece of thick, grooved vinyl shelf covering (i.e. "Groovy Easy Liner" for
shelves) is
clipped to a 10 x 13 inch plastic clipboard. The grooves are about 5 mm wide,
spaced about 5
mm apart, and are about 1.6 mm thick with 0.55 mm thick valleys. The grooves
run across the
short direction of the clipboard, and serve to provide underlying texture.
One polyethylene sheet is attached to the clipboard using a clip, placing the
sheet over the
underlying grooved vinyl covering. I gram of rinsable skin conditioning
composition is applied
to the sheet and spread by hand on the sheet for 30 seconds to all edges of
the sheet. The sheet is
again weighed. This weight, prior to rinsing is recorded as WW,e.
The sheet is rinsed for 30 seconds in warm water (100-105 F), letting the
water stream hit
the top edge of the sheet and cascade down the length of the sheet. Water flow
rate is between
210 and230 ml/l0 seconds. The sheet is hung to dry from one corner using a
clothespin and dried
overnight (e.g. at 120 OF at 5% relative humidity for greater than 8 hours).
The sheet is weighed
again the next day. This weight after rinsing is recorded as Wafter.
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The deposition efficiency is calculated as: Deposition Efficiency = [Wafter
Wo] / [Wbefore -
WO] x 100.
Rheology
Compositions according to the present invention preferably have a yield stress
of from
about 20 to about 200 Pa., more preferably from about 30 to about 100 Pa.,
even more preferably
from about 50 to about 90 Pa. Preferred compositions also have viscosity in
the range of from
about 1,000 to about 20,000 cP, preferably from about 1,500 to about 10,000
cP, even more
preferably from about 2,000 to about 7,000 cP. Yield stress and viscosity can
be measured using
methods familiar to those with ordinary skill in the art as described below.
Yield Stress:
A rheometer with a 4 cm diameter parallel plate geometry at a gap setting of 1
mm, for
example a TA Instruments AR 2000 controlled stress rheometer manufactured by
TA
Instruments-Waters LLC, New Castle, Delaware, 19720, is used. A composition is
loaded onto
the rheometer base plate at 25 C, and the upper plate is positioned at a
distance 1 mm from the
base plate, containing the composition between the plates. Without disturbing
the composition,
excess is removed to the edge of the plate with a spatula. Using a controller
and a computer
(provided with rheometer), the rheometer is programmed to increase stress on
the sample from a
starting value of 0.1 Pa to a final value of 1,000 Pa in a series of 50 steps
per decade of stress at a
logarithmic rate of increase, over a total measurement time of 3 minutes. Data
are collected in an
electronic file for analysis. First, data are plotted as the log of stress/Pa
vs. log of strain, and the
yield stress is determined. The yield stress, or stress at which product flow
begins, is the point at
which the data exhibit a transition from non-flow into flow, evident as a kink
in the curve of the
log stress vs. log strain curve. Data in the non-flow region are linearized by
regression or simply
drawing a straight line through the non-flow data; and data in the flow region
are linearized by
regression or drawing a similar straight line, and the intersection of the
linear regressions or the
straight lines is determined to be the yield stress. For preferred products, a
pronounced yield
stress is demonstrated as a sharp bend in the data curves at the yield stress,
as the composition
rapidly shifts from non-flow to flow with increasing stress. For compositions
that do not exhibit a
yield stress by this method, the yield stress is taken to be a low value,
i.e., less than 1 Pa or even 0
Pa for fluids such as Newtonian fluids.
Viscosity:
To determine the viscosity of the composition, the same data obtained above
are plotted
as viscosity (centipoises, or cP) vs. shear rate (inverse seconds, or 1/sec).
The viscosity at a shear
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rate of 100 1/seconds is easily determined by observation of the data, and can
be interpolated from
the viscosity-shear rate data if needed. If a shear rate of 100 1/sec is not
reached even at the
highest stress in this test, the composition isre-tested with a higher stress
range using the same
measurement time per stress decade (1 minute per stress decade) until a
sufficiently high shear
rate is obtained.
Optional Ingredients
The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention may further
comprise other
optional ingredients that may modify the physical, chemical, cosmetic or
aesthetic characteristics
of the compositions or serve as additional "active" components when deposited
on the skin. The
compositions may also further comprise optional inert ingredients. Many such
optional
ingredients are known for use in personal care compositions, and may also be
used in the skin
conditioning compositions herein, provided that such optional materials are
compatible with the
essential materials described herein, or do not otherwise unduly impair
product performance.
The rinsable skin conditioning compositions of the present invention may
optionally
comprise from about 0.1% to about 0.75% of a conventional preservative. Non-
limiting examples
of preservatives which may be used in the compositions of the present
invention are benzyl
alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, DMDM hydantoin,
methylchloroisothiaoline,
methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate,
and benzoic acid.
EDTA and salts thereof are often used to further enhance preservation.
Such optional ingredients are most typically those materials approved for use
in cosmetics
and that are described in reference books such as the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient
Handbook,
Second Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association, Inc.
1988, 1992. These
optional materials can be used in any aspect of the compositions of the
present invention.
Additional optional ingredients may include Clays (silicates), either
synthetic or natural,
and are used to provide high temperature phase stability. Examples of a
synthetic Clay is Laponite
a synthetic layered silicate from 0.05 to 2%, most preferably from 0.075 to
1.0%. Also useful are
TM
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate clays such as Gelwhite MAS and natural clays such
as bentonites
of the name Gelwhite L. Both Gelwhite MAS and Gelwhite L are useful in the
range of 0.1 to 1%
and most preferably from 0.2 to 0.5%.
Other optional ingredients include silicone elastomer powders and fluids to
provide any of a
variety of product benefits, including improved product stability, application
cosmetics,
emolliency, conditioning, and so forth. The concentration of the silicone
elastomers in the
composition preferably ranges from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably
from about 0.5%
to about 10%, by weight of the composition. In this context, the weight
percentages are based
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upon the weight of the silicone elastomers material. itself, excluding any
silicone-containing fluid
that typically accompanies such silicone elastomers materials in the
formulation process. The
silicone elastomers suitable for optional use herein include emulsifying and
non-emulsifying
silicone elastomers.
Skin benefit agents
The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention may optionally
further
comprise a skin benefit agent suitable for use on the skin, and which is
otherwise compatible with
the other selected ingredients in the composition. The skin benefit agent can
be blended with the
oils previously described and included as part of the main high internal phase
emulsion. In this
case the oil functions as a carrier for the skin benefit agent. The skin
benefit agent may also be
included as part of a separate high internal phase emulsion. The skin benefit
agent may also be
included as an add-on ingredient wherein it is not part of any of the high
internal phase emulsion
premixes.
Non-limiting examples of skin benefit agents suitable for use herein are
described in The
CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992), which includes a
wide variety of
cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care
industry, and which are
suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. Non-limiting
examples of such skin
benefit agents include abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as
fragrances, pigments,
colorings/colorants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, etc. (e.g.,
clove oil, menthol,
camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate),
anti-acne agents, anti-
caking agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate),
antioxidants, colorants,
cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, drug astringents, external
analgesics, opacifying agents,
pH adjusters, skin bleaching and lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic
acid, ascorbic acid,
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), skin-conditioning and/or
moisturizing
agents, i.e. glycerine, skin soothing and/or healing agents (e.g., panthenol
and derivatives (e.g.,
ethyl panthenol), aloe vera, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, allantoin,
bisabolol, and
dipotassium glycyrrhizinate), retinoids, (e.g. retinol palmitate), tocopheryl
nicotinate, skin treating
agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof. In any embodiment of the present
invention, however,
the actives useful herein can be categorized by the benefit they provide or by
their postulated
mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the actives useful herein
can in some
instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of
action. Therefore,
classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not
intended to limit the active
CA 02483534 2008-08-07
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to that particular application or applications listed. The skin benefit agents
are furthered described
hereinafter in details.
A) Desquamation Actives
The skin benefit agent for use herein can include desquamation actives,
preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably
from about 0.2%
to about 5%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, by weight of
the composition
for non-surfactant containing actives and from about 0.1% to about 3%, more
preferably from
about 0.2% to about 3%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% for
surfactant
containing actives. Desquamation actives enhance the skin appearance benefits
of the present
invention. For example, the desquamation actives tend to improve the texture
of the skin (e.g.,
smoothness). One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein contains
sulfhydryl
compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S. Patent No.
5,681,852, to Bissett.
Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herein contains salicylic
acid and
zwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S. Patent No. 5,652,228 to
Bissett.
B) Anti-Acne Actives
The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include anti-acne actives,
preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably
from about 1% to
about 20%, by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of anti-acne
actives suitable for
use herein include resorcinol, sulfur, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide,
erythromycin, zinc, and
other similar materials.
Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-acne actives for use herein are
described in
U. S. Patent No. 5,607,980, issued to McAtee et al.
C) Anti-Wrinkle Actives/Anti-Atrophy Actives
The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include anti-wrinkle actives or
anti-atrophy
actives, including sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives
and salts,
particularly the N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-
acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols,
e.g. ethane thiol; hydroxy acids (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic
acid and glycolic acid or
beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives such
as the octanoyl
derivative), phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peel
agents (e.g., phenol and
the like). Also suitable is niacinamide.
Hydroxy acids as skin benefit agents herein include salicylic acid and
salicylic acid
derivatives, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to about
50%, more
preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5%
to about 2%, by
weight of the composition.
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Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-wrinkle actives for use herein
are described
in U. S. Patent No. 6,217,888, issued to Oblong et al.
D) Anti-Oxidants/Radical Scavengers
The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include anti-oxidants or
radical scavengers,
preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more
preferably from
about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of anti-oxidants or radical scavengers for use herein
include
ascorbic acid and its salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid
derivatives (e.g.,
magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate),
tocopherol,
tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic
acids and their salts, 6-
hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available
under the
tradename Trolox ), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl
gallate, uric acid and its
salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, lipoic acid, amines (e.g.,
N,N-
diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g.,
glutathione), dihydroxy
fumaric acid and its salts, lycine pidolate, arginine pilolate,
nordihydroguaiaretic acid,
bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase,
silymarin, tea
extracts, grape skin/seed extracts, melanin, and rosemary extracts may be
used.
E) Chelators
The skin benefit agent for use herein can also include chelating agents. As
used herein,
the term "chelating agent" or "chelator" refers to those skin benefit agents
capable of removing a
metal ion from a system by forming a complex so that the metal ion cannot
readily participate in
or catalyze chemical reactions.
The chelating agents as skin benefit agents for use herein are preferably
formulated at
concentrations ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from
about 1% to about
5%, by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable chelating
agents are
described in U.S. Patent No. 5,487,884, issued 1/30/96 to Bissett et al.;
International Publication
No. 91/16035, Bush et al., published 10/31/95; and International Publication
No. 91/16034, Bush
et al., published 10/31/95.
Preferred chelating agents for use in the active phase of the compositions of
the present
invention include furildioxime, furilmonoxime, and derivatives thereof.
F) Flavonoids
The skin benefit agent for use herein includes flavonoid compounds suitable
for use on
the hair or skin, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.01% to
about 20%, more
preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to
about 5%, by
weight of the composition.
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Non-limiting examples of flavonoids compounds suitable for use as skin benefit
agents
include flavanones such as unsubstituted flavanones, mono-substituted
flavanones, and mixtures
thereof; chalcones selected from unsubstituted chalcones, mono-substituted
chalcones, di-
substituted chalcones, tri-substituted chalcones, and mixtures thereof;
flavones selected from
unsubstituted flavones, mono-substituted flavones, di-substituted flavones,
and mixtures thereof;
one or more isoflavones; coumarins selected from unsubstituted coumarins, mono-
substituted
coumarins, di-substituted coumarins, and mixtures thereof; chromones selected
from
unsubstituted chromones, mono-substituted chromones, di-substituted chromones,
and mixtures
thereof; one or more dicoumarols; one or more chromanones; one or more
chromanols; isomers
(e.g., cis/trans isomers) thereof; and mixtures thereof. By the term
"substituted" as used herein
means flavonoids wherein one or more hydrogen atom of the flavonoid has been
independently
replaced with hydroxyl, C1-C8 alkyl, CI-C4 alkoxyl, O-glycoside, and the like
or a mixture of
these substituents.
Examples of suitable flavonoids include, but are not limited to, unsubstituted
flavanone,
mono-hydroxy flavanones (e.g., 2'-hydroxy flavanone, 6-hydroxy flavanone, 7-
hydroxy
flavanone, etc.), mono-alkoxy flavanones (e.g., 5-methoxy flavanone, 6-methoxy
flavanone, 7-
methoxy flavanone, 4'-methoxy flavanone, etc.), unsubstituted chalcone
(especially unsubstituted
trans-chalcone), mono-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2'-hydroxy chalcone, 4'-hydroxy
chalcone, etc.),
di-hydroxy chalcones (e.g., 2',4-dihydroxy chalcone, 2',4'-dihydroxy chalcone,
2,2'-dihydroxy
chalcone, 2',3-dihydroxy chalcone, 2',5'-dihydroxy chalcone, etc.), and tri-
hydroxy chalcones
(e.g., 2',3',4'-trihydroxy chalcone, 4,2',4'-trihydroxy chalcone, 2,2',4'-
trihydroxy chalcone, etc.),
unsubstituted flavone, 7,2'-dihydroxy flavone, 3',4'-dihydroxy naphthoflavone,
4'-hydroxy
flavone, 5,6-benzoflavone, and 7,8-benzoflavone, unsubstituted isoflavone,
daidzein (7,4'-
dihydroxy isoflavone), 5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy isoflavone, soy isoflavones (a
mixture
extracted from soy), unsubstituted coumarin, 4-hydroxy coumarin, 7-hydroxy
coumarin, 6-
hydroxy-4-methyl coumarin, unsubstituted chromone, 3-formyl chromone, 3-formyl-
6-isopropyl
chromone, unsubstituted dicoumarol, unsubstituted chromanone, unsubstituted
chromanol, and
mixtures thereof.
Among these flavanoid compounds, preferred are unsubstituted flavanone,
methoxy
flavanones, unsubstituted chalcone, 2',4-dihydroxy chalcone, isoflavone,
flavone, and mixtures
thereof, more preferably soy isoflavones.
Other non-limiting examples of flavanoid compounds suitable for use as skin
benefit
agents herein are described in U.S. Patents 5,686,082 and 5,686,367.
G) Anti-Inflammatory Agents
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The skin benefit agent for use in the present composition can include anti-
inflammatory
agents, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1 % to about 10%,
more preferably
from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
Non-limiting examples of steroidal anti-inflammatory agents suitable for use
herein
include corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-
methyl
dexamethasone, dexamethasone-phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionates,
clobetasol valerate,
desonide, desoxymethasone, desoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone,
dichlorisone,
diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone
acetonide,
fludrocortisone, flumethasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide,
flucortine
butylesters, fluocortolone, fluprednidene (fluprednylidene) acetate,
flurandrenolone, halcinonide,
hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprednisolone,
triamcinolone acetonide,
cortisone, cortodoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate,
fluradrenolone,
fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetonide, medrysone,
amcinafel,
amcinafide, betamethasone and the balance of its esters, chloroprednisone,
chlorprednisone
acetate, clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone, diflurprednate,
flucloronide, flunisolide,
fluoromethalone, fluperolone, fluprednisolone, hydrocortisone valerate,
hydrocortisone
cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, paramethasone,
prednisolone, prednisone,
beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures thereof may be used.
The preferred
steroidal anti-inflammatory for use is hydrocortisone.
Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents are also suitable for use herein as skin
benefit
agents in the active phase of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of non-
steroidal anti-
inflammatory agents suitable for use herein include oxicams (e.g., piroxicam,
isoxicam,
tenoxicam, sudoxicam, CP-14,304); salicylates (e.g., aspire disalcid,
benorylate, trilisate,
safapryn, solprin, diflunisal, fendosal); acetic acid derivatives (e.g.,
diclofenac, fenclofenac,
indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, isoxepac, furofenac, tiopinac, zidometacin,
acematacin,
fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, ketorolac); fenamates
(e.g., mefenamic,
meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic, tufenamic acids); propionic acid
derivatives (e,g., ibuprofen,
naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen,
indopropfen, pirprofen,
carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen,
alminoprofen, tiaprofenic);
pyrazoles (e.g., phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone,
trimethazone); and
combinations thereof as well as any dermatologically acceptable salts or
esters of thereof.
Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or similar other
skin benefit
agents include candelilla wax, bisabolol (e.g., alpha bisabolol), aloe vera,
plant sterols (e.g.,
phytosterol), Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia,
particularly Rubia Cordifolia),
and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Comminhora. particularly
Commiphora Muku1),
kola extract, chamomile, red clover extract, sea whip extract, and
combinations thereof.
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Other non-limiting examples of suitable anti-inflammatory or similar other
skin benefit
agents include compounds of the Licorice (the plant genus/species Glycyrrhiza
lg abra) family,
including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e.g.,
salts and esters).
Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds include metal and ammonium salts.
Suitable esters
include C2 - C24 saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids, preferably C10 -
C24, more
preferably C16 - C24. Specific non-limiting examples of the foregoing include
oil soluble
licorice extract, the glycyrrhizic and glycyrrhetic acids themselves,
monoammonium
glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-
beta-glycyrrhetic
acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, disodium
3-succinyloxy-beta-
glycyrrhetinate, and combinations thereof.
H) Anti-Cellulite Agents
The skin benefit agent for use in the compositions of the present invention
anti-cellulite
agents, non-limiting examples of which include xanthine compounds such as
caffeine,
theophylline, theobromine, aminophylline, and combinations thereof.
1) Topical Anesthetics
The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention include topical
anesthetics, non-
limiting examples of which include benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine,
chlorprocaine, dibucaine,
etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine, procaine,
ketamine, pramoxine,
phenol, pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
J) Tanning Actives
The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention include tanning
actives, preferred
concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the
composition.
Non-limiting examples of such tanning agents include dihydroxyacetone, which
is also known as
DHA or 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone.
K) Skin Lightening Agents
The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention can include skin
lightening agents,
preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more
preferably from
about 0.2% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight
of the
composition. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening agents suitable for use
herein include
kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g., magnesium
ascorbyl phosphate or
sodium ascorbyl phosphate), and extracts (e.g., mulberry extract, placental
extract) as well as
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Non-limiting examples of skin lightening
agents suitable for use
herein also include those described in WO 95/34280, WO 95/07432, and WO
95/23780.
L) Skin Soothing and Skin Healing Actives
The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention include skin soothing
and skin
healing actives, preferred concentrations of which range from about 0.1% to
about 30%, more
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preferably from about 0.5% to about 20%, still more preferably from about 0.5%
to about 10 %,
by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of skin soothing or skin
healing actives
suitable for use herein include panthenoic acid derivatives (e.g., panthenol,
dexpanthenol, ethyl
panthenol), aloe vera, allantoin, bisabolol, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
M) Antimicrobial Actives
The skin benefit agent for use in compositions of the present invention may
include
antimicrobial actives, preferred concentrations of which range from about
0.001% to about 10%,
more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and still'more preferably from
about 0.05% to
about 2%, by weight of the compositions.
Non-limiting examples of antimicrobial actives for use herein includes fi-
lactarn drugs,
quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin,
amikacin, 2,4,4'-
trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol,
phenoxy propanol,
phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine,
chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline,
clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine,
gentamicin,
kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin,
netilmicin,
paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline hydrochloride,
erythromycin,
zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin
sulfate, doxycycline
hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine
hydrochloride,
chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin
hydrochloride,
ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine
hydrochloride, gentamicin
sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline
hydrochloride, methenamine
hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate,
netilmicin
sulfate, paromomycin sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate,
miconazole
hydrochloride, ketaconazole, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate,
octopirox,
parachlorometa xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione, clotrimazole,
and combinations
thereof.
N) Sunscreen Actives
The skin benefit agent for use in the present invention may comprise a
sunscreen active,
either organic or inorganic sunscreen actives. Among the inorganic sunscreens
useful hererin are
metallic oxides such as titanium dioxide having an average primary particle
size of from about 15
nm to about 100 nm, zinc oxide having an average primary particle size of from
about 15 nm to
about 150 nm, zirconium oxide having an average primary particle size of from
about 15 nm to
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WO 03/094867 PCTIUS03/14321
about 150 rim, iron oxide having an average primary particle size of from
about 15 nm to about
500nm, and mixtures thereof.
The concentration of the sunscreen active for use in the composition
preferably ranges
from about 0.1% to about 20%, more typically from about 0.5% to about 10%, by
weight of the
composition. Exact amounts of such sunscreen actives will vary depending upon
the sunscreen or
sunscreens chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).
A wide variety of conventional organic sunscreen actives are also suitable for
use herein,
non-limiting examples of which include p-arninobenzoic acid, its salts and its
derivatives (ethyl,
isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (i.e.,
o-amino-benzoates;
methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and
cyclohexenyl esters);
salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-pro-
pyleneglycol esters);
cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile;
butyl cinnamoyl
pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone,
methylumbelliferone,
methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin,
methylesculetin,
daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons
(diphenylbutadiene, stilbene);
dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-
naphthol-3,6-
disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); di-hydroxynaphthoic acid
and its salts; a- and
p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3 -
phenyl); diazoles
(2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various
aryl
benzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and
tannate); quinoline
derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-
substituted
benzophenones; uric and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g.,
hexaethylether);
(butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones
(oxybenzene,
sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2',4,4'-
tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-
dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone; 4-
isopropyldibenzoylmethane;
butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; octocrylene; [3-(4'-
methylbenzylidene bornan-2-
one), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and 4-isopropyl-di-
benzoylmethane. Among
these sunscreens, preferred are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially
available as
TM
PARSOL MCX), 4,4'-t-butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially available as
PARSOL
1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid,
digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxy-
propyl))aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-
salicylate,
glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate,
methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-
aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-
,
phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-
sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid,
octocrylene and combinations thereof.
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Non-limiting examples of other sunscreen actives suitable for use herein
include those
described in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990,
and U.S. Patent No.
4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli & Spirnak on March 12, 1991. Among those
sunscreen actives
described, preferred are 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of
2,4-
dihydroxybenzophenone; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-
hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester
with 4-
hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of
2-hydroxy-4-
(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)-methylaminobenzoic acid
ester of 4-(2-
hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid
ester of 2-
hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; and N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-
aminobenzoic acid
ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof. Especially
preferred
sunscreen actives include 4,4'-t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-
methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene.
0) Visual Skin Enhancers
The skin benefit agent for use in compositions of the present invention may
include visual
skin enhancement ingredients. These include ingredients that mask the
appearance of any number
of skin imperfections such as age spot, fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes etc.,
including but not
limited to titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and iron oxides. Also suitable for use
herein are organic
particulates that diffuse light when deposited on the skin. Preferred
concentrations of these
ingredients range from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about
0.01% to about
5%, and still more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%, by weight of the
compositions.
Method of Use
The present invention is also directed to methods of using the skin
conditioning
compositions of the present invention comprising the steps of:
(A) preparing a rinsable skin condition composition comprising at least one
high internal phase
emulsion comprising
I. (i) an oil;
(ii) a stabilizer;
(iii) water; and
II. the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care ingredients,
wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant;
(B) applying the product of step (A) to wet human skin; and (C) rinsing the
product off of the
skin.
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While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that efficacy of the
product can be
linked to the ability of the consumer to understand the usage instructions and
to use the product
accordingly. The instruction set included may contain pictures or
illustrations of the product
being applied as well as written instructions. Therefore, the present
invention also relates to an
article of commerce comprising a container comprising a rinse off skin
conditioning composition,
which provides skin conditioning and moisturizing benefits to the human skin
when applied in the
shower and/or bath and rinsed and comprises:
I. at least one high internal phase emulsion comprising
i) an oil
ii) a stabilizer;
iii) water; and
H. the balance being conventional cosmetic and skin care ingredients,
wherein the composition is substantially free of surfactant and wherein said
container has
instructions for conditioning and moisturizing the skin comprising the
instructions to wash skin
and rinse as normal, smooth product onto skin while out of the flow of water,
rinse briefly, and
pat dry with towel.
Method of Manufacture
The skin conditioning compositions of the present invention may be prepared by
any
known or otherwise effective technique, suitable for making and formulating
the desired product
form. Specific non-limiting examples of such methods as they are applied to
specific
embodiments of the present invention are described in the following examples.
For illustration
purposes only, the following suitable method of manufacture employs two high
internal phase
emulsion premixes, to prepare a single product. Depending upon the properties
of the specific
oils and stabilizers selected it will be recognized by one of skill in the art
that certain
modifications may need to be made to the manufacturing method. It is
contemplated however,
that one or any number of premixes can be made and mixed together to form the
final product.
An oil premix is prepared as follows: ,
1. Add ambient temperature water to a vessel
2. Add stabilizer to water.
3. Heat and mix water and stabilizer with a propeller blade until it reaches
85 C.
4. Continue to mix at 85 C until stabilizer is completely hydrated (viscosity
will increase as
stabilizer hydrates and then decrease when stabilizer is hydrated-
approximately 30
minutes)
5. In a separate vessel add oil and heat and mix at 85 C.
6. Add oil to water/stabilizer mixture slowly and increase propeller blade
speed.
7. Continue to mix for 5 minutes at 85 C.
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8. Add preservative to mixture and decrease temperature to 75 C.
Any number of oil premixes can be prepared as described above and used alone
or in
combination with other oil premixes in a final product. Skin benefit agents
can also be
included in the oil premixes.
Fatty Alcohol Gel Network Main Mix
9. Add ambient temperature water to a vessel
10. Add Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and glutamic acid and stabilizer to
water.
11. Heat and mix mixture with a propeller blade until it reaches 85 C.
12. Continue to mix at 85 C until stabilizer is completely hydrated
(viscosity will increase as
stabilizer hydrates and then decrease when stabilizer is hydrated-
approximately 30
minutes)
13. Add fatty alcohol to hot mixture and continue to mix until fatty alcohol
is completely
melted.
14. Transfer to high shear mixer for 5 minutes.
Add Oil Premixs
15. Oil premixs are cooled to 75 C and passed through a static mixer (or
mill) to achieve
desired particle size if necessary then added into the fatty alcohol gel
network main mix
tank with agitation.
Add Optional Ingredients i.e. Preservative and Perfume
16. Add solid preservatives first and liquid preservatives next.
17. Mix slowly to move entire batch.
18. Cool mixture to 42 C and add remaining preservatives, fragrance and other
conventional
ingredients.
Continue mixing for 15 minutes
EXAMPLES
The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the
scope
of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of
illustration and are not
to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations
thereof are possible
without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. All exemplified
amounts are
concentrations by weight of the total composition, i.e., wt/wt percentages,
unless otherwise
specified.
Each of the exemplified compositions provides improved cosmetics during and
after
application, including reduced greasy or sticky skin feel, and provides
improved deposition or
effectiveness of the skin conditioning agent delivered from each prepared
composition.
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
water 58.198 48.688 43.688 48.8 51.278 51.078 58.198 58.036 53.688 45.188
40.188 44.188 37.144 48.856
petrolatum 30.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 40.000 0.000 20.000 40.000
40.000 40.000 40.000 30.000 40.000
shea butter 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 30.000 10.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
Dimethicone/
Dimethiconol 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 0.000 0.000 5.000 5.000
5.000 0.000 2.000
sunflower oil 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 5.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
glycerine 0.000 0.000 5.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 5.000 5.000
stearyl alcohol 2.310 2.310 2.310 2.310 0.430 0.430 2.310 2.310 2.310 2.310
2.310 2.310 0.640 0.640
cetyl alcohol 1.290 1.290 1.290 1.290 0.240 0.240 1.290 1.290 1.290 1.290
1.290 1.290 0.360 0.360
cetylhydroxy
cellulose 1.250 0.760 0.760 0.760 1.310 1.310 1.250 1.400 0.760 0.760 0.760
0.760 0.000 1.000
perfume 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.000 1.000 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200 1.200
1.200 0.000 1.200
glydant 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370 0.370
0.370 0.370 0.370
henox of 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250 0.250
0.250 0.250 0.250
disodium 0.120 0.120
EDTA 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120
SAPDMA1 0.009 0.009 0.009 0.006 0.002 0.002 0.009 0.018 0.009 0.009 0.009
0.009 0.003 0.003
lutamic acid 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.002 0.001 0.001 0.003 0.006 0.003 0.003 ,
0.003 0.003 0.001 0.001
propane!
isobutane 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
pentane
propellant 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 3.500
ZnO2 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 5.000 0.000
0.000 0.000
tocopherol
nicotinate 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
1.000 0.000 0.000
Pemulen TR-2 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.200 0.000
GelWhite L 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.500 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.000 0.200 0.200
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated
and
described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other
changes and
modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is
therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and
modifications that are
within the scope of this invention.
26
