Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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SKIN CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING
FIRST AND SECOND EMULSIONS
Field of Invention
The present invention relates to a skin care composition comprising a first
emulsion and a
second emulsion. Especially, the present invention relates to transparent or
translucent skin care
composition providing aesthetic benefits and/or additional conditioning
benefits, while not
deteriorating transparency and skin conditioning benefits such as
moisturization, smoothness and
softness.
Back~ound of the Invention
Many personal care products 'currently available to consumers are directed
primarily to
improving the health and/or physical appearance of the skin. Among these skin
care products,
many are directed to delaying, minimizing or even eliminating skin wrinkling
and other
histological changes typically associated with skin aging or environmental
damage to human skin.
In order to maintain or return skin to a healthy and/or youthful state, the
skin is typically
treated with a moisturizing agent. Known moisturizing agents include, for
example, water soluble
humectants such as glycerin. Addition of oily components is also known to be
advantageous, in
that they provide softness, smoothness, and supplement of intercellular lipid.
Transparent forms of lotions and emulsions incorporating water soluble
humectants and
oils, to provide moisturization, smoothness and softness to the skin, are
known in the art such as
PCT publications W099/49841, WO00/37029, WO00/61098, and WO00/61083. The
transparent
appearance is appealing to consumers, as there is a belief that application of
such compositions
will make their skin transparent and young-looking. It would be even more
appealing to
consumers if such products provide other benefits such as aesthetic benefits
and/or additional
conditioning benefits, in addition to moisturiGation, smoothness and softness.
Such aesthetic
benefits and/or additional conditioning benefits can be obtained from
components such as
perfumes, hydrophobic plant extracts, and hydrophobic vitamins.
It is desired to incorporate materials such as perfumes, hydrophobic plant
extracts, and
hydrophobic vitamins, into the transparent forms of lotions and emulsions,
without deteriorating
transparency, moisturization, smoothness, and softness of the composition.
Based on the foregoing, there exists a need for transparent or translucent
skin care
composition providing aesthetic benefits and/or additional conditioning
benefits, while not
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deteriorating transparency and skin conditioning benefits such as
moisturization, smoothness and
softness.
None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the
present
invention.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention is directed to a skin care composition comprising:
(a) a first emulsion comprising a first surfactant system, a first oily
component, and a first
aqueous carrier; wherein the first surfactant system comprises two or more
nonionic
surfactants selected from the group consisting of polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers
having the
C12-1~ of alkyl substitute, polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated caster oils, and a
linear or
branched, mono-or tri-alkyl glycerides; wherein the first oily component is
selected from
the group consisting of emollients, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; and
wherein the
weight ratio of the first surfactant system to the first oily component is
from about 5:1 to
about 1:1;
(b) a second emulsion comprising a second surfactant system, a second oily
component, and
a second aqueous carrier; wherein the second surfactant system comprises one
or more
nonionic surfactants selected from the group consisting of polyoxyalkylene
hydrogenated
caster oils, polyglycerin alkyl esters having the C10-20 of alkylsubstitute,
polysorbates,
polyoxyethylene sterols, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated sterols, hydroxylated
lecithin,
polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates and salts thereof, and glycereth-25 PCA
isostearate; wherein the second oily component comprises is selected from the
group
consisting of perfumes, hydrophobic plant extracts containing terpene
compounds,
hydrophobic vitamins, and mixtures thereof; and wherein the weight ratio of
the second
surfactant system to the second oily component is from about 20:1 to about
3:1; and
(c) a third aqueous carrier.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention
will become
better understood from a reading of the following description, and appended
claims.
All documents cited are, in relevant part, incorporated herein by reference;
the citation of
any document is not to be construed as an admission that it is prior art with
respect to the present
invention.
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Detailed Description of the Invention
While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and
distinctly
claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be
better understood from the
following description.
Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not
affect the
end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of and
"consisting
essentially of'.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the
compositions of
the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they
pertain to listed
ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include
carriers or by-products that
may be included in commercially available materials.
Herein, "mixtures" is meant to include a simple combination of materials and
any
compounds that may result from their combination.
While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and
distinctly claim
the invention, it is believed the present invention will be better understood
from the following
description.
Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not
affect the
end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of and
"consisting
essentially of'.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the
compositions of
the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they
pertain to listed
ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include
carriers or by-products that
may be included in commercially available materials.
COMP~SITI~N
The composition of the present invention is suitable for topical use on human
body skin,
particularly suitable for facial skin. The composition has a transparent to
translucent appearance,
and thus is particularly suitable for a clear lotion product. Typically,
applications would be on the
order of about once per day over such extended periods while application rates
can be up to about
three times per day or more.
The present compositions can provide aesthetic benefits and/or additional
conditioning
benefits, while not deteriorating transparency and skin conditioning benefits
such as
moisturization, smoothness and softness.
The "base composition" of the present composition has high transparency. By
"base
composition", what is meant is the composition of the present invention
containing only the
essential components, i.e., a composition consisting essentially of the first
emulsion, the second
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emulsion, and the third aqueous carrier. The base composition has an
absorbance of less than
about 2 at a wave length of 340 nm; preferably from about 1 to about 1.5 at
the same wave length.
Absorbance herein can be determined by using the Micro Plate Reader by TECAN
Co. Ltd.
FIRST EMULSION
The composition of the present invention comprises a first emulsion. The first
emulsion
comprises a first surfactant system, a first oily component, and a first
aqueous carrier. The first
emulsion may further contain preservatives such as benzyl alcohol.
Preferably, the first emulsion have a mean particle size of less than about
100nm, more
preferably less than about 80nm. The size of the droplets can be determined
using a Laser
Scattering Particle Size Distribution Analyzer LA-910 by Horiba (Japan). The
size of droplets is
measured with the emulsion at a temperature of 25°C +/- 1°C,
after 30 seconds mixing. The first
emulsion has a form of a microemulsion. Herein, "microemulsion" means an
emulsion containing
an aqueous carrier as the continuous phase, in which water-insoluble
components, which would
otherwise provide a non-transparent appearance, are dispersed as such small
droplets that they
appear as a transparent emulsion. One skilled in the art understands certain
oily components may
appear transparent even when dispersed at a larger droplet size. In the
present invention, the
droplet size of the oily components that do not appear transparent at larger
droplet size, are
critical for providing the base composition transparent. Without being bound
by theory, it is
believed the selection of species and amount of the surfactant system provides
a suitable
microemulsion for dispersing the oily components. The weight ratio of the
first surfactant system
to the first oily component is from about 5:1 to about 1:1.
First surfactant s s
The first surfactant system comprises two or more nonionic surfactants
selected from the
group consisting of polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers having the C12-18 of alkyl
substitute,
polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated caster oils, and a linear or branched, mono-or
tri-alkyl glyccrides.
Polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers useful herein are the condensation products of
alkylene
oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols (~.~., vrherein the
polyalkylene oxide portion is
esterified on one end with a fatty acid and etherified (e.~., comiected via an
ether linkage) on the
other end with a fatty alcohol). These materials have the general formula
R1CO(X1)zOR2
wherein Rl and R2 are independently alkyl of from about 12 to about 18
carbons; Xl is -
OCH2CH2 derived from, for example ethylene glycol or -OCH2CHCH3- derived from
propylene
glycol or oxide; and z is an integer from about 6 to about 50.
Nonlimiting examples of such alkylene oxide derived nonionic surfactants
include
ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12,
ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30,
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steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-20, PEG-100 steareth, PEG-6
stearate, PEG-10
stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20
glyceryl stearate,
PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate,
PEG-200
glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof;
preferably,
ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, and ceteareth-30. Commercially available
surfactants include
ceteareth-12 with tradename Eumulgin B1, ceteareth-20 with tradename Eumulgin
B2, and
ceteareth-30 with tradename Eumulgin B3, all available from Henkel.
Examples of polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oil useful herein include
polyoxyethylene hydrogenated caster oil; preferably polyoxyethylene (20)
hydrogenated caster
oil.
Examples of mono- or tri-alkyl glyceride useful herein include glyceryl
monostearate,
glyceryl oleate, and triglyceryl diisostearate; preferably triglyceryl
diisostearate.
The first surfactant system is contained in the composition of the present
invention at a
level of preferably from about 0.02% to about 3%, more preferably from about
0.1% to about 2%
by weight of the composition.
The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the first surfactant system is
selected by the
artisan in view of the amount and species of the first oily component.
Preferably, the HLB of the
first surfactant system as a whole is higher than about 10. Preferably, among
the surfactants used
for the first surfactant system, at least one surfactant has an HLB of more
than 10, and at least one
surfactant has an HLB of below 10. More preferably, the amount of higher HLB
surfactants is
greater than the lower HLB surfactants. Without being bound by theory, by
using both a higher
HLB surfactant and a lower HLB surfactant, a stable emulsion can be made with
as low level of
surfactant possible. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least 3
surfactants are used, such
surfactants each having different HLBs.
In a preferred method of preparing the composition of the present invention,
the first
surfactant system is first mixed with the first oily component, and such
mixture is added to the
first aqueous carrier. The amount of the first aqueous carrier used in this
step is preferably from
about 0.~ to about 10 times, more preferably from about 1 to about 7times the
total weight of the
first oily component and the first surfactant system. Without being bound by
theory, by
incorporating the surfactant system in such manner, a stable emulsion can be
made with as low
level of surfactant possible.
First oily com o~ nent
The first oily components comprise one or more selected from the group
consisting of (i)
emollients, (ii) silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. The first oily
components useful herein
provides moisturizing efficacy to the skin.
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The first oily component is preferably heat tolerant at 80°C. By "oily
component being
heat tolerant at 80°C", what is meant is that the oily component meets
following conditions at
80°C, preferably 82°C, more preferably 85°C: (i) the oily
component is not volatile; (ii) the oily
component is not irreversibly thermally denatured.
The first oily component, which is encompassed in the first emulsion, can be
contained in
the composition at a level of preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, more
preferably from
about 0.05% to about 2% by weight of the composition.
Vii) Emollient
The emollient oil useful herein are those having a melting point of not more
than about
25°C, and provide emollient benefit to the skin. The emollient oils
useful herein include esters
and hydrocarbons. Emollient oils of lower viscosity, low molecular weight, or
branched
structure, are highly preferable. It has been surprisingly found that, by the
use of such oils, the
tacky and greasy feel to the skin can be alleviated.
Emollient oils useful herein are esters, particularly esters having branched
alkyl and
alkenyl groups. Such esters include, for example, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate,
tridecyl isononanoate,
isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isosteatrate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl
isonoanoate, cetyl
octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate,
isotridecyl myristate,
isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl
palmitate, isodecyl
palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl myristate, octyl palmitate,
caprylic/capric acid
triglyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol di(2-ethyl
hexanoate), neopentyl
glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimerate, glycerol trioctanate, glycerol
triisopalmitate, isopropyl
myristate, octyldodecyl lactate, and mixtures thereof. Triglycerides such as
caprylic/capric
triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, and PEG-8 caprylic/capric
triglyceride may also
be useful. Crude mixtures of such triglycerides by the CTFA name Meadowfoam
seed oil are also
useful. Coanmercially available oils include, for example, isononyl
isononanoate with tradenames
Salacos 99 available from lVisshin ~il Mills, or Lanol 99 available from
Seppic; tridecyl
isononanoate with tradename Crodamol T1~T available from Croda, and I~exalan
available from
lVisshin Seiyu, and Meadowfoam Seed ~il with tradename Cropure MI2F available
from Croda.
Emollient oils also useful herein are the various grades and types of
hydrocarbons.
Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from
petroleum. Specific
examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil including those called
light paraffin or
isoparaffm, mineral oil, squalane, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane,
isohexadecane, eicosene,
isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane,
and mixtures
thereof. Commercially available hydrocarbons useful herein include
isododecane, isohexadeance,
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and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL lOlA, and PERMETHYL
1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), mineral oil
with tradename
BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR available from
Exxon
Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA.), tradename Isoparaffin 2028 available from
Idemitsu, and
tradename Amsco Mineral Spirits available from Ashland.
(ii) Silicone oils
The silicone components useful herein include insoluble silicones suitable for
use on the
skin. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate,
discontinuous phase from
the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of
the silicone. The
silicone components herein may be made by any suitable method known in the
art, including
emulsion polymerization. The silicone components may further be incorporated
in the present
composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my
mechanical mixing, or
in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the
aid of a surfactant
selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants,
and mixtures thereof.
Silicone components of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion
polymerization.
Silicone components useful herein include polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes,
silicone resins,
amino-substituted siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The silicone component is
preferably selected
from the group consisting of polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes, silicone resins,
and mixtures thereof,
and more preferably from one or more polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes.
Polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes useful here in include those with the following
structure (I)
A ~ -O-f ~ -~-l~ ~ -A (I )
R R R
wherein R is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
"A" represents groups
which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups
substituted on the siloxane
chain (R) or at the ends of the siloxane chains (A) can have any structure as
long as the resulting
silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither
irritating, toxic nor otherwise
harmful when applied to the skin, is compatible with the other components of
the composition, is
chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of
being deposited on
and conditions the skin. Suitable A groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy,
ethoxy, propoxy,
and aryloxy. The two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group
or different
groups. Preferably, the two R groups represent the same group. Suitable R
groups include
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methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred
silicone
compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and
polymethylphenylsiloxane.
Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially
preferred. The
polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example,
polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone
compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in
their Viscasil and
SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in , their Dow Corning 200 series.
Polymethylphenylsiloxanes, for example, from the General Electric Company as
SF 1075 methyl
phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, are useful
herein.
Another polyalkyl polyaryl siloxane that can be especially useful is a
silicone gum. The
term "silicone gum", as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material
having a viscosity at
25°C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is
recognized that the silicone gums
described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone
compounds. This
overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone
gums are described by
Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al.,
issued May 1, 1979 and
Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press
1968. Also
describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data
Sheets SE 30, SE 33,
SE 54 and SE 76. All of these described references are incorporated herein by
reference in their
entirety. The "silicone gums" will typically have a mass molecular weight in
excess of about
200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific
examples include
polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,
poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and
mixtures thereof.
The method of manufacturing these silicone components, can be found in
Encyclopedia
of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308,
John Wiley &
Sons, Inc., 1989.
In one preferred embodiment, the silicone component is a mixture of high
viscosity
silicone compounds and silicone based carriers. High viscosity silicone
compounds herein
include those having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 540,000
selected from
those mentioned above, preferably selected from the group consisting of
du~nethiconol,
fluorosilicone dimethicone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably essentially
dimethiconol.
Particularly preferred dimethiconols are those having dimethylpolysiloxane
repeating units, and
terminated with hydroxy groups, wherein the dimethylsiloxane portion is made
of from about
2700 to about 4500 repeating units. Silicone based carriers include those
having a viscosity of
from about 6mPa~s to about 100mPa~s selected from cyclomethicones and
dimethicones having
lower repeating units.
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Commercially available silicone components which are useful herein include
Dimethicone with tradename DC345 available from Dow Corning Corporation,
Dimethicone gum
solutions with tradenames SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 available from General
Electric,
Dimethiconol with tradenames DCQ2-1403 and DCQ2-1401 available from Dow
Corning
Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba
Silicone as
described in GB application 2,303,857.
SECOND EMULSION
The composition of the present invention comprises a second emulsion. The
second
emulsion comprises a second surfactant system, a second oily component, and a
second aqueous
carrier. Preferably, the second emulsion further contain a polyol carrier. The
particle size of the
second emulsion can be in a range of preferably about SOnm or less, more
preferably about 30nm
or less.
The weight ratio of the second surfactant system to the second oily component
is from
about 20:1 to about 3: l, preferably from about 15:1 to 5:1.
Second surfactant system
The second surfactant system comprises one or more nonionic surfactants
selected from
the group consisting of polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated caster oils, polyglycerin
alkyl esters
having the C10-20 of alkylsubstitute, polysorbates, polyoxyethylene sterols,
polyoxyethylene
hydrogenated sterols, hydroxylated lecithin, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether
phosphates and salts
thereof, and glycereth-25 PCA isostearate. Preferably, the second surfactant
system comprises
two or more nonionic surfactants selected from the above species.
Polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oils useful herein include, for example,
polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oils having 20-100 moles of ethylene
oxides, such as
polyoxyethylene (20) hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene (40) hydrogenated
castor oil, and
polyoxyethylene (100) hydrogenated castor oil.
Polyglycerin alkyl esters having the C10-20 of alkylsubstitute useful herein
include, for
example, those having 6-10 moles of glycerin units such as polyglyceryl-6
laurate, polyglyceryl-
laurate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.
Polysorbates useful herein include, for example, those having 20-80 moles of
ethylene
oxides, such as polysorbate-20, polyborbate-40, polysorbate-60, and
polysorbate-80.
Polyethylene sterols and polyethylene hydrogenated sterols useful herein
include, for
example, those having 10-30moles of ethylene oxides, such as polyethylene (10)
phytosterol,
polyethylene (30) phytosterol, and polyethylene (20) cholesterol.
Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates useful herein include, for example,
those having
one or two polyoxyethylene alkyl ether groups wherein the alkyl portion has
from about 10 to
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about 20 carbon atoms. Such polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates are
preferably included as
salts in the composition of the present invention. Salts of the
polyoxyethylene alkyl ether
phosphates useful herein include, for example, sodium salts, ammonium salts,
and potassium
salts. Preferred are, for example, sodium dilaureth-10 phosphate, and sodium
didioleth-8
phosphate.
The second surfactant system is contained in the composition of the present
invention at a
level of preferably from about 0.003% to about 3%, more preferably from about
0.01% to about
2% by weight of the composition.
The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the second surfactant system is
selected by
the artisan in view of the amount and species of the second oily component -
Preferably, the HLB
of the second surfactant system as a whole is higher than about 8, more
preferably higher than
about 10. Preferably, the second surfactant system consists essentially of
nonionic surfactants
having an HLB of 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more. Without being bound by
theory, by
using only higher HLB surfactant, the second emulsion can be contained in the
present
composition without deteriorating its transparency.
In a preferred method of preparing the composition of the present invention,
the second
surfactant system is first mixed with the second oily component, and such
mixture is added to the
second aqueous carrier. ~ The amount of the second aqueous Garner used in this
step is preferably
from about 0.5 to about 20 times, more preferably from about 1 to about 10
times the total weight
of the second oily component and the second surfactant system. Without being
bound by theory,
by incorporating the surfactant system in such manner, a stable emulsion can
be made with as low
level of surfactant possible.
Second oil~component
The second oily components comprise one or more selected from the group
consisting of
perfumes, hydrophobic plant extracts containing terpene compounds, hydrophobic
vitamins, and
mixtures thereof.
In the present composition the second oily components are emulsified
separately from
the first oily component, and preferably emulsified at a temperature of about
20-40°C. Preferably,
in the present composition, the second oily components especially perfumes are
present in form of
only the second emulsion. It is believed that; by incorporating the second
oily components into
the composition in form of the second emulsion, the composition can have
improved stability. It
has been found by the inventors that; when incorporating second oily
components, especially
perfumes, into the composition without the preparation of a second emulsion
encompassing the
second oily component, the oily components deteriorate the transparency or
translucency of the
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composition, i.e., the composition becomes opaque or milky, especially during
the storage at a
temperature of 50°C or above.
Perfumes useful herein include one perfume component and a mixture of two or
more
perfume components. Such perfume components useful herein include natural
perfume
components and synthetic perfume components. Synthetic perfumes highly useful
herein include,
fore example, terpenes such as menthol, camphor, and limonene; and aldehydes
such as y -heptyl
butyrolactone and ethyl (3 -methyl- a -phenyl glycidate.
Hydrophobic plant extracts containing terpene compounds useful herein include,
for
example, tea tree oil containing terpinene-4-of and y -terpinene and chamomile
extract containing
bisarol.
Hydrophobic vitamins useful herein include, for example, vitamin A and its
derivatives
such as vitamin A palmitate and vitamin A propyonate, and vitamin I? and its
derivatives.
The second oily component can be contained in the composition at a level of
preferably
from about 0.001% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 0.5%
by weight of
the composition.
Pol~ol carrier
Preferably the second emulsion further contains a polyol carrier. Polyol
carriers useful
herein include, for example, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, pentylene glycol,
and propylene
glycol. Some of these polyol carriers can be also used as "WATER S~LUBLE
HUMECTANT"
described below.
The polyol carrier can be contained in the composition at a level of
preferably from about
0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 6% by weight of
the
composition. The weight ratio of the polyol carrier to the second surfactant
system is preferably
from about 5:1 to about 1:5, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3.
It is believed that, polyol carriers help the second emulsion form, by solving
the second
surfactant system. In a preferred method of preparing the composition of the
present invention,
the polyol carrier is first mixed with second surfactant system and the second
oily component, and
such mixture is added to the second aqueous carrier.
AQUEQUS CARRIER
The compositions of the present invention comprise aqueous carriers. The level
and
species of the carriers are selected according to the compatibility with other
components, and
other desired characteristic of the product.
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12
Garners useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of
lower alkyl
alcohols. Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1
to 6 carbons,
more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
Preferably, aqueous carriers are substantially water. Deionized water is
preferably used.
Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used,
depending on the desired
characteristic of the product.
Generally, the composition of the present invention comprises from about 10%
to about
99%, preferably from about 50% to about 95%, more preferably from about 60% to
about 90%
by weight of the composition, of a total of aqueous carriers.
The pH of the present composition is preferably from about 4 to about ~, more
preferably
from about 5 to about 7. The suitable tacky skin treatment agents are
particularly efficient in
such pH range. )3uffers and other pH adjusting agents can be included to
achieve the desirable
pH.
CARS~XYLIC ACID/CAR)3~XYLATE COP~LYMEI~
The compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.01% to about
5%,
preferably from about 0.04% to about 1% of a carboxylic acid/carboxylate
copolymer.
Without being bound by theory, the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is
believed to
provide a shear thinning property to the present composition. What is meant by
shear thinning
property is that a yield point exists within a typical shear stress applicable
by the hand on the
skin, and that the viscosity of the composition beyond the yield point
significantly decreases to
the extent such decrease is noticeable by the consumer. In a preferred
embodiment, the
composition of the present composition, prior to application of shear, has a
suitable viscosity,
preferably from about 100 mPa~s to about 6000 mPa~s, more preferably from
about 500 mPa~s to
about 4500 mfa~s, still preferably from about 700 mFa~s to about 4000 mPa~s.
The viscosity
herein can be suitably measured by Brookfield LV at 20rpm at 25°C using
either spindle #4~, 5, 6
or 7 depending on the viscosity and the characteristic of the composition. In
a highly preferred
embodiment, the viscosity beyond the yield point is similar to that of water.
The shear thinning
property provides a low viscous composition directly upon use, thereby
providing the feel of
applying water to the skin.
The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer also keeps the composition
relatively
transparent and at a suitable viscosity without making the composition tacky
or greasy upon use.
Additionally, the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is capable of
dispersing and
stabilizing the oily components in an aqueous environment, so that such
components do not
separate out. When first oily components are incorporated in the composition
in addition to the
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13
amount encompassed in the first emulsion, the additional first oily components
can be
incorporated into the composition, by dispersing with the carboxylic
acid/carboxylate copolymer.
The additional first oily components are preferably silicone oils. The
additional first oily
components, dispersed with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, can be
included in the
composition at a level of from about 0.05% to about 5%, preferably from about
0.5% to about 3%
by weight of the composition.
The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are hydrophobically-modified
cross-
linked coplymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate, and have an
amphiphilic property. It
is believed that, because of the alkyl group contained in the copolymer, the
carboxylic
acid/carboxylate copolymers do not make the composition undesirably sticky.
Suitable carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers herein are acrylic acid/alkyl
acrylate
copolymers having the following formula:
52
-CH-CH2 C-CHI
n I
CH2
~H2
CH2 n"
CH2
~H-CH C-CH2
C~~~1 ~ X52
wherein R51, independently, is a hydrogen or an alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons
wherein at least one of
R51 is a hydrogen, R5~ is as defined above, n, n', m and m' are integers in
which n+n'+m+m' is
from about 40 to about 100, n" is an integer of from 1 to about 30, and ~ is
defined so that the
copolymer has a molecular weight of about 500,000 to about 3,000,000.
Commercially available carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymers useful herein
include:
CTFA name Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer having tradenames
Pemulen TR-1,
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14
Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, and Carbopol ETD 2020, all
available from B. F.
Goodrich Company.
Neutralizing agents may be included to neutralize the carboxylic
acid/carboxylate
copolymers herein. Nonlimiting examples of such neutralizing agents include
sodium hydroxide,
potssium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monethanolamine, diethanolamine,
triethanolamine,
diisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tromethamine, tetrahydroxypropyl
ethylenediamine,
and mixtures thereof.
ADDITIONAL WATER SOLUBLE POLYMER
The compositions of the present invention may further comprise an additional
water
soluble polymer, preferably at a level of from about 0.01% to about 5%, more
preferably from
about 0.04% to about 1%. The additional water soluble polymers herein are
water soluble or
water miscible polymers, and are compatible with the carboxylic
acid/carboxylate copolymers.
Without being bound by theory, it is believed the controlled amount of
additional water soluble
polymers in the composition provides improved moisturization and smoothness to
the skin
without giving an undesirable tacky or sticky feeling.
In one preferred embodiment, the additional water soluble polymer is selected
so that the
composition of the present composition has a suitable viscosity of preferably
from about 100
mPa~s to about 6000 mPa~s, as described above.
Additional water soluble polymers useful herein include anionic polymers and
nonionic
polymers. Useful herein include, for example, vinyl polymers such as cross
linked acrylic acid
polymers with the CTFA name Carbomer; cellulose derivatives and modified
cellulose polymers
such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose,
hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,
hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose; polyvinylpyrrolidone; polyvinyl alcohol; gums
such as guar
gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, and xanthan gum; microbiological polymers such as
dextran and
succinoglucan; starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and
methylhydroxypropyl
starch; acrylate polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylacrylate, and
polyacrylamide.
Polyalkylene glycols having a molecular weight of more than about 1000 are
also useful herein.
Additional water soluble polymers also useful herein include amphoteric
polymers such as
Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 39, Polyquaternium 47, and
octylacrylamine/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
Commercially available additional water soluble polymers highly useful herein
include
xanthan gum with tradename Keltrol series available from Kelco, Carbomers with
tradenames
Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, and Carbopol 981, all
available from
B. F. Goodrich Company, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer with
tradename
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ACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass, nonoxynyl hydroxyethylcellulose with
tradename
AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol, methylcellulose with
tradename
BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl
cellulose with
tradename I~LUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67,
all supplied
by Herculus, scleroglucan with tradename Clearogel SC11 available from Michel
Mercier
Products Inc. (NJ, USA), ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers
with tradenames
CARBOWAX PEGS, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied by Amerchol.
WATER SOLUBLE HUMECTANT
The composition of the present invention comprises from about 1 % to about
20%,
preferably from about 5% to about 15% of a water soluble humectant. Water
soluble humectants
useful herein include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, sorbitol,
propylene glycol, butylene
glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose, 1,2-hexane diol, 1,2-pentane
diol, hexanetriol,
dipropylene glycol, erythritol, trehalose, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol,
maltose, glucose, fructose,
sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium adenosin phosphate,
sodium lactate,
pyrrolidone carbonate, glucosamine, cyclodextrin, and mixtures thereof.
Water soluble humectants useful herein include water soluble alkoxylated
nonionic
polymers such as polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having a
molecular weight of
up to about 1000 such as those with CTFA names PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-
1000, and
mixtures thereof.
Commercially available humectants highly useful herein include: butylene
glycol with
tradename 1,3-butylene glycol available from ASAHI DENKA Co. Ltd.; glycerin
with
tradenames CRODEROL GA7000 available from Croda Universal Ltd., PRECERIN
series
available from Unichema, and a same tradename as the chemical name available
from NOF;
propylene glycol with tradename LEXOL PG-865/855 available from Inolex, 1,2-
PROPYLENE
GLYCOL USP available from BASF; dipropylene glycol with the same tradename
available from
BASF; diglycerin with tradename DIGLYCEROL available from Solvay GmbH;
polyethylene
glycols with the tradename CARBOWAX series available from Union Carbide, and a
mixture of
glyceryl polyr~ethacrylate, propylene glycol and PYM/MA copolymer with
tradename Lubrajel
Oil available from Guardian Lab.
SEBUM ABSORBING AGENT
The composition of the present invention may contain from about 0.1% to about
10%,
preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a sebum absorbing agent. Sebum
absorbing agents
useful herein include those which actually absorb the sebum discreted from the
pores, and are
compatible with the aqueous composition of the present invention. Components
which are water
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16
soluble, water swellable, or have high emulsifying ability are not suitable
herein, as they would
no longer have sebum absorbing ability when formulated in the composition.
Preferable sebum absorbing agents herein include porous spherical cellulose
powder,
solid silicone elastomer powder, surface modified porous silica powder, porous
nylon powder,
porous acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. The type and amount of sebum
absorbing
agents are selected according to the desired character of the product.
Commercially available porous spherical cellulose powders highly useful herein
include
the materials with tradename Celluflow series, such as Celluflow 0025
available from Chisso
Corp. Commercially available solid silicone elastomer powders highly useful
herein include
vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer with tradenames KSP
series available
from ShinEtsu Chemical Co., Ltd., Tokyo Japan. Other commercially available
sebum absorbing
agents include porous acrylatc copolymers with tradename Polytrap available
from Dow Corning.
TACKS SKIN TREAT1VIENT AGENT
The composition of the present invention may contain from about 0.5% to about
10%,
preferably from about 1% to about 5% of a tacky skin treatment agent. Skin
treatment agents
useful herein are those which help repair and replenish the natural moisture
barrier function of the
epidermis, thereby providing skin benefits such as texture improvement. It is
generally known
that, while such agents provide useful benefits to the skin when used
chronically, they also tend
to provide negative skin feel upon use when applied by itself.
Tacky skin treatment agents useful herein are niacinamide, nicotinic, acid and
its esters,
nicotinyl alcohol, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, n-acetyl cysteine, n-
acetyl-L-serine,
phosphodiesterase inhibitors, trimethyl glycine, urea, gelatin, soluble
collagen, royal jelly,
tocopheryl nicotinate, and vitamin D3 and analogues or derivatives, and
mixtures thereof.
Niacinamide is particularly preferred in that, when used in a pharmaceutically
effective amount,
is capable of reducing or alleviating the intensity of chronical spots.
Niacinamide is suitably
incorporated in the composition by first dissolving in water. Panthenol is
also particularly
preferred in that, when used in an amount of at least about 1°f~, it
provides texture improvement
benefits. Niacinamidc and panthenol are commercially available, for example,
by Roche.
SEBUIvI SUPRESSING PLANT EXTRACT
The composition of the present invention may further comprise from about
0.001% to
about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% of a sebum suppressing
plant extract.
The plant extracts useful herein are those which have an astringent type of
effect for reducing the
size of pores, or inhibition effect of 5-a-reductase, and are compatible with
the aqueous form of
the present composition, and preferably do not alter the transparent or
translucent appearance of
the present composition. Water soluble plant extracts are preferred. Useful
plant extracts herein
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17
include clove (choji) extract, coix (yokuinin) extract, witch hazel
(hamamerisu) extract, and
mixtures thereof. Such plant extracts are available from Iwase.
UV PROTECTING AGENT
The composition of the present invention may further comprise from about 1% to
about
10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 9.5% of a UV protecting agent. UV
protecting
agents generally prevent excessive scaling and texture changes of the stratum
corneum by
exposure of ultraviolet light and may be added to the emulsion of the present
invention. Suitable
UV protecting agents may be organic or inorganic. Hydrophobic and water
insoluble UV
protecting agents may be used at controlled levels.
A wide variety of conventional UV protecting agent are suitable for use
herein. Preferred
among those UV protecting agent which are useful in the emulsions are those
selected from 2-
ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCP),
butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone, 2-
phenylbenzimidazole-
5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl
N,N-dimethyl-p-
aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid,
octocrylene,
oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-
butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-
isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)
camphor, titanium
dioxide such as MT-100 available from Tayca, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide,
EusolexTM 6300,
Octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly useful herein are UV protecting agents such as those disclosed in
U.S. Patent
4,937,370, Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990, and U.S. Patent 4,999,186,
Sabatelli, issued March 12,
1991. The UV protecting agents disclosed therein have, in a single molecular,
two distinct
chromophore moieties which exhibit different ultraviolet radiation absorption
spectra. One of the
chromophore moieties absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation range and the
other absorbs
strongly in the UVA radiation range. These UV protecting agent provide higher
efficacy, broader
LTV absorption, lower skin penetration and longer lasting efficacy relative to
conventional UV
protecting agent.
Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired
Sun
Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of
a sunscreen
against erythema. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269,
August 25, 1978.
WHITENING AGENT
The composition of the present invention may further comprise from about
0.001% to
about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% of a whitening agent.
Whitening
agents useful herein are those which are compatible with the aqueous form of
the present
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18
composition. Water soluble whitening agents are preferred. The whitening agent
useful herein
refers to active ingredients that not only alter the appearance of the skin,
but further improve
hyperpigmentation as compared to pre-treatment.
Useful whitening agents useful herein include ascorbic acid compounds, azelaic
acid,
butyl hydroxy anisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizinic acid,
hydroquinoine, kojic
acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, and mixtures thereof. Use of combinations of
whitening agents is
believed to be advantageous in that they may provide whitening benefit through
different
mechanisms.
Preferably, the ascorbic acid compound useful herein is an ascorbic acid salt
or derivative
thereof. Exemplary water soluble salt derivatives include, but are not limited
to, L-ascorbic acid
2-glucoside, L-ascorbyl phosphate ester salts such as sodium L-ascorbyl
phosphate, potassium L-
ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbyl
phosphate, aluminum
L-ascorbyl phosphate. L-ascorbyl sulfate ester salts can also be used.
Examples are sodium L-
ascorbyl sulfate, potassium L-ascorbyl sulfate, magnesium L-ascorbyl sulfate,
calcium L-ascorbyl
sulfate and aluminum L-ascorbyl sulfate.
ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS
The compositions herein may further contain other additional components, which
may be
selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final
product and which are
suitable for rendering the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically
acceptable or to
provide them with additional usage benefits. The components useful herein are
conveniently
categorized by a certain benefit or their postulated mode of action, however,
a given category is
not limiting of its use. Further, it is understood the one component may
provide multiple benefits.
Anti-Oxidants and Radical Scavengers
Anti-oxidants and radical scavengers are especially useful for providing
protection
against UV radiation which can cause increased scaling or texture changes in
the stratum corneum
and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage. Preferred
anti-
oxidants/radical scavengers include, for example, tocopherol sorbets and other
esters of
tocopherol, more preferably tocopherol sorbets. For example, the use of
tocopherol sorbets in
topical emulsions and applicable to the present invention is described in U.S.
Patent 4,847,071,
l~issett et al, issued July 1 l, 1989.
iii) Anti-Inflammatory Aged
Anti-inflammatory agents enhance the skin appearance benefits, by for example,
contribution of uniformity and acceptable skin tone and/or color. Preferably,
the anti-
inflammatory agent includes a steroidal anti-inflammatory agent and a non-
steroidal anti-
inflammatory agent. Preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory for use is
hydrocortisone. So-called
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19
"natural" anti-inflammatory agents are also useful. For example, alpha
bisabolol, aloe vera,
Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia
Cordifolia), and Guggal
(extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora
Mukul), kola extract,
chamomile, and sea whip extract, may be used.
(iii) Antimicrobial Agent
As used, "antimicrobial agents" means a compound capable of destroying
microbes,
preventing the development of microbes or preventing the pathogenic action of
microbes.
Antimicrobal agents are useful, for example, in controlling acne. Preferred
antimicrobial agents
useful in the present invention are benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin,
tetracycline, clindamycin,
azelaic acid, sulfur resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, and IrgasanTM DP 300 (Ciba
Geigy Corp.,
U.S.A.). A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial agent may be added to
emulsions of the
present invention, preferably from about 0.001°/~ to about 10%, more
preferably from about
0.01% to about 5%, still more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%.
(iv) Chelators
As used herein, "chelator" refers to a compound that reacts for removing a
metal ion from
a system by forming a complex so that the metal ion cannot readily participate
in or catalyze
chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelator is especially useful for
providing protection
against UV radiation which can contribute to excessive scaling or skin texture
changes and
against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage. Exemplary
chelators that are
useful herein are disclosed in U.S. Patent 5,487,884, Bissett et al, issued
January 30, 1996; PCT
application 91/16035 and 91/16034, Bush et al, published October 31, 1995.
Preferred chelators
are furildioxime and derivatives thereof.
~) Other Components
In addition to the above described components, the composition of the present
invention
may further include preservatives and preservative enhancers such as water-
soluble or
solubilizable preservatives including Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and
butyl esters of
hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, imidazolidinyl urea, EDTA and its salts,
Bronopol (2-
bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; antifoaming agents;
binders; biological
additives; bulking agents; coloring agents; essential oils and solubilizers
thereof; other natural
extracts; compounds which stimulate collagen production; yeast fermented
filtrates, and others.
METHOD OF PREPARATION
Preferably, the composition of the present invention is prepared by a method
of
preparation comprising the steps of:
(a) preparing a first mixture comprising the steps of
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(al) mixing the first oily component with the first surfactant system and the
first aqueous
carrier at a temperature of about 70-80°C to form a first emulsion; the
amount of the first aqueous
carrier being from about 0.5 to about 10 times the total weight of the first
oily component and the
first surfactant system;
(a2) cooling the mixture of (al) to about 50°C;
(a3) adding the mixture of (a2) to the third aqueous carrier, the temperature
of the third
aqueous carrier being cold enough to immediately cool the obtained mixture to
a temperature of
no higher than 40°C;
(b) preparing a second mixture comprising the step of
(bl) mixing the second oily component with the second surfactant system and
the second
aqueous carrier at a temperature of about 20-40°C to form the second
emulsion; the amount of the
second aqueous carrier being from about 0.5 to about 20 times the total weight
of the second oily
component and the second surfactant system;
(c) mixing the first mixture and the second mixture.
While not essential to the present method, a polyol carrier, a carboxylic
acid/carboxylate
copolymer, and a water soluble humectant are typically added. The components
used in the
present method are the same as those described above.
A first mixture is prepared with the first surfactant, the first oily,
component, the first
aqueous carrier, and the third aqueous carrier. In step (al), the first oily
component, the first
surfactant system, and the first aqueous carrier are mixed together in an
anchor mixer at a
temperature of about 70-80°C to form the first emulsion. Preferably,
the first surfactant system is
first mixed with the first oily component, and such mixture is added to the
first aqueous carrier.
The amount of the first aqueous carrier used in step (al) is preferably from
about 0.5 to about 10
times, more preferably from about 1 to about 7 times the total weight of the
first oily component
and the first surfactant system. In step (a2), the mixture of step (al) is
cooled to 50°C, preferably
within a period of about 20 minutes. It has been discovered that such cooling
allows the mixture
to become transparent. In step (a3), the mixture of step (a2) is further
cooled by mixing with the
third aqueous carrier. The third aqueous carrier to be mixed with the mixture
of step (a2) has a
temperature cold enough that the obtained mixture is immediately cooled to no
higher than 40°C,
preferably about 30°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed
this second cooling process
provides a stable transparent mixture with as small amount of surfactant as
possible.
Separately, a second emulsion is prepared with the second surfactant, the
second oily
component, and the second aqueous carrier. In step (bl), the second oily
component, the second
surfactant system, and the second aqueous earner are mixed together in an
anchor mixer at a
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21
temperature of about 20-40°C to form the second emulsion. Preferably,
the second surfactant
system is first mixed with the second oily component, and such mixture is
added to the second
aqueous carrier. The amount of the second aqueous Garner used in step (bl) is
preferably from
about 0.5 to about 20 times, more preferably from about 1 to about 10 times
the total weight of
the second oily component and second surfactant system. Polyol Garners are
preferably added to
the second emulsion. Preferably, the polyol carriers are mixed with the second
surfactant system
prior that the second surfactant system is mixed with the second oily
component.
Finally, the first mixture and the second mixture are mixed until homogeneous
(Step c).
Mixing at this step is preferably conducted by an anchor mixer at a relatively
low rotation speed,
preferably from about SOrpm to about 100rpm. This step can be carried out at
room temperature.
In the composition of the present invention, carboxylic acid/carboxylate
copolymer and
water-soluble humectant are preferably added. Preferably, the carboxylic
acid/carboxylate
copolymer, and if present, additional water soluble polymers are dispersed in
a fourth aqueous
carrier at a temperature of about 70-~0°C until homogeneous. When these
polymers are
dispersed, a high speed agitator may be used and the rotation speed is
controlled to no more than
about SOOOrpm to avoid destruction of the polymer structures. When
neutralizing agents are
present, they are added subsequent to this dispersion. Preferably water
soluble humectant is
added to this polymeric mixture. The remaining components, if present, such as
sebum absorbing
agents, tacky skin treatment agents, sebum suppressing plant extracts, UV
absorbing agents,
whitening agents, and preservatives may be added to this polymeric mixture.
This polymeric
mixture, when included, is added to the mixture of step (c).
In the composition of the present invention, when carboxylic acid/carboxylate
copolymer
is contained, first oily components such as silicone oils may be contained in
the present
composition by dispersing with this carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, in
addition to the
amount encompassed in the first emulsion. In this case, the additional first
oily components are
preferably added to the above polymeric mixture.
EXAMPLES
The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the
scope
of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of
illustration and are not
to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations
thereof are possible
without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Where
applicable, ingredients are
identified by chemical or CTFA name, or otherwise defined below.
Compositions
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22
Phase Ex.lEx.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.SEx.6
O1 Ceteareth-12 0.0130.01 0.02 0.04 0.020.013
O1 Ceteareth-20 0.050.05 0.13 0.14 0.0540.05
O1 Ceteareth-30 0.090.1 0.15 0.24 0.0970.09
O1 Polyglyceryl -3 Diisostearate0.140.1 0.32 0.39 0.1560.14
O1 PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor 0.040.04 0.15 0.12 0.0480.04
0i1
O1 Cetyl2-ethylhexanoate 0.0250.03 0.23 0.07 0.0280.025
O1 Meadowfoam Seed Oil * 1 0.050.05 0.15 0.15 0.060.05
O1 Isohexadecane - - - 0.1 0.1 -
O1 IsononylIsononanoate - - - - - 0.1
O1 Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3 0.3 - 0.120.2
02 De ionized Water 1.6 1.6 4.3 4~.3 1.721.6
03 De ionized Water 30.030.0 30.0 30.0 30.030.0
03 Sodium Benzoate 0.070.07 0.07 0.07 0.070.07
03 EDTA 2-Na 0.040.04 0.04 0.04 0.040.04
03 Glycerin 0.722.0 - 2.0 - 2.0
03 Glyceryl Polymethacrylate 1.5 - 1.5 2.0 - -
& Propylene
Glycol & PVM/MA copolymer
*2
03 1,3-Butylene glycol 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3
03 Methyl Paraben 0.070.07 0.07 0.07 0.070.07
04 Menthol 0.01- 0.01 0.05 0.05-
04 Perfume *3 0.050.05 0.06 - 0.05-
04 Tea tree oil *4 - - - - - 0.1
04~ PEG-4~0 Hydrogenated Castor 0.4 0.5 - 0.2 0.4~0.4
Oil
04 PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor 0.2 - - - - 0.2
Oil
04~ Polysorbate-20 - - - 0.3 0.2 -
04 Polyglyceryl-6laurate - - 0.6 - - -
04 1,3-Butylene Glycol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6
OS De ionized water 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
06 Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate- - - - 0.230.2
copolymer 1 *5
06 Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate0.250.25 0.25 0.3 - -
copolymer 2 *6
06 De ionized Water balance
to
100%
07 De ionized water 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
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08 Sodium Hydroxide 0.070.1 0.1 0.85 0.2 0.06
08 De ionized water - - - 0.12 0.150.1
09 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol 1.5 - 2.0 - 1.0 -
*7
09 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol - 1.5 - 1.5 - 1.0
*8
De ionized water 20.020.0 20.0 20.0 20.020.0
10 Methyl paraben 0.1 0.05 0.1 0.05 0.070.07
10 1,3-butylene glycol 4.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 4.0
10 Xanthan gum *9 0.040.04 0.04 0.04 - -
10 Carbomer *10 - - - - ~~2 -
10 Sodium Hyaluronate * 11 0.05- - - 0.020.02
11 D-panthenol ~ 12 - 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 1.0
11 IViacinamide * 13 - 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
11 Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract0.1 - 0.15 0.1 - 0.15
* 14
11 Witch Hazel Extract *15 - - - 0.1 - -
11 Clove Extract * 16 - - 0.1 - - -
11 Magnesium Ascorbyl Glucoside- - - - 2.0 -
11 Benzophenone-1 - - - - - 2.0
11 Titanium Dioxide * 17 - - - - - 1.0
11 Cellulose Powder * 18 - - - - 3.0 -
11 Vinyl Dimethicone / methicone- - - - - 5.0
Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
* 19
11 De ionized water 10 10 10 10 10 10
Compositions
Phase Ex.7Ex.8
O1 Ceteareth-12 0.0130.01
Ol Ceteareth-20 0.050.05
O1 Ceteareth-30 0.090.1
O Polyglyceryl -3 Diisostearate0.140.1
l
O1 PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor 0.040.04
Oil
O1 Cetyl2-ethylhexanoate 0.0250.03
O1 Meadowfoam Seed Oil * 1 0.050.05
Ol Benzyl alcohol 0.3 0.3
02 De ionized Water 1.6 1.6
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03 De ionized Water 30.030.0
03 Sodium Benzoate 0.070.07
03 EDTA 2-Na 0.040.04
03 Glycerin 0.722.0
03 Glyceryl Polymethacrylate 1.5 -
& Propylene
Glycol & PVM/MA copolymer
*2
03 1,3-Butylene glycol 2.3 2.3
03 Methyl Paraben 0.070.07
04 Menthol 0.01-
04 Perfume *3 0.050.05
04 Sodium Dilaureth-10 Phosphate0.45-
04 Glycereth-25 PCA Ispstearate- 0.45
04 1,3-Butylene Glycol 0.6 0.6
05 De ionized water 2.0 2.0
06 Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate0.250.25
copolymer 2 *6
06 De ionized Water balance
to
100%
07 De ionized water 5.0 5.0
08 Sodium Hydroxide 0.070.1
09 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol 1.5 -
*7
09 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol - 1.5
*8
De ionized water 20.020.0
10 Methyl paraben 0.1 0.05
10 1,3-butylene glycol 4.0 2.0
10 Nanthan gum *9 0.040.04
10 Sodium Hyaluronate ~ 11 0.05-
11 D-panthenol ~ 12 - 1.0
11 Niacinamide ~ 13 - 2.0
11 Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract0.1 -
* 14
11 De ionized water 10 10
Definitions of Components
* 1 Meadowfoam Seed Oil: Cropure MDF available from Croda
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*2 Glyceryl Polymethacrylate & Propylene Glycol & PVM/MA copolymer: Lubrajel
Oil
available from Guardian Lab
*3 Perfume: containing limonene
*4 Tea tree oil: containing terpinene-4-of and Y-terpinene available from
Southern Cross
Botanicals.
*5 Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer l: PEMULEN TR-1 available from B.
F.
Goodrich
*6 Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer 2: PEMULEN TR-2 available from B.
F.
Goodrich
*7 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol: DCQ2-1403 available from Dow Corning
*8 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol: DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning
*9 Xanthan gum: Keltrol T available from Kelco
~° 10 Carbomer: Carbopol 981 available from B. F. Goodrich
11 Sodium Hyaluronate: available from Chisso core.
* 12 Panthenol: available from Roche
* 13 Niacinamide: available from Roche
* 14 ~izyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract: Available from Ichimaru Pharcos
* 15 Witch Hazel Extract: Hamamerisu Liquid available from Iwase .
* 16 Clove Extract: Choji Extract BG available from Iwase
*17 Titanium Dioxide: Titanium Dioxide MT-100 available from Tayca
* 18 Cellulose Powder: Celluflow C-25 available from Chisso core.
*19 Vinyl dimethicone/methicone Silsesqueioxane Crosspolymer: KSP-100
available from
Shinetsu Chemical
Method of Preparation
(al) Heat Phase Ol to about 80°C. Heat Phase 02 to about 78°C.
Emulsify by adding Phase
O1 to Phase 02 and mixing.
(a2) Cool the mixture of (al) to about 50°C within a period of about 10
to about 20 minutes.
(a3) Add the mixture of (a2) to Phase 03, Phase 03 being at room temperature.
(bl) Emulsify by adding Phase 04 to Phase OS at about 25°C.
(c) Mix the mixture of step (a3) and the product of step (bl).
(dl) When included, heat Phase 06 to about 80°C, and mix Phase 06 with
high speed agitator
at no more than SOOOrpm until homogenous.
(d2) Add Phase 06 to Phase 07 of about 80°C, and cool the mixture to
about 45°C.
(d3) Add Phase 09 to the mixture of (d2).
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(d4) Add Phase 08 to the mixture of (d4).
(d5) Heat Phase 10 to about 80°C and mix Phase 10 with high speed
agitator at no more than
SOOOrpm until homogenous. Add Phase 10 to the mixture of (d4).
(d6) Mix Phase 11 with high speed agitator at no more than SOOOrpm until
homogenous. Add
Phase 11 to the mixture of (d5).
Finally mix the mixture of step (c) and the mixture of step (d6).
The embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous examples have many
advantages. For example, Examples 1 through 8 are particularly useful for
providing clear lotions
for use on the facial skin. When used on the facial skin, the compositions of
Examples 1 through
8 can provide moisturizing benefit, smoothness and softness to the skin
without leaving a tacky
and/or greasy feel to the skin.
In Examples 1 through 8, the base compositions comprising Phases O1, 02, 03,
04, and OS
have a transparent appearance, and an absorbance of no more than about 2 at a
wave length of
340nm. The compositions of Examples 1 through 8 have translucent appearance.
The
compositions of Examples 1 through 5, 7, and 8 can provide an aesthetic
benefit due to perfume
and/or menthol. The composition of Example 6 can provide an additional
conditioning benefit
due to tea tree oil.
