Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
SHAPE MEMORY ALLOY MOUNTING COLLET WITH
GROOVED GEMSTONE
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to jewelry, and more specifically, to
shape memory alloy
mounting collet.
[0002] Gemstones are traditionally set in a collet, also known as a setting or
a basket, which is fixedly
attached to a piece of jewelry. Various collets are available and may form
part of 'jewelry
findings' as understood by a person skilled in the art. Jewelry findings may
include, but not
limited to, items like clasps, butterflies, pins, jump rings, and lockets.
[0003] There are currently several ways of setting gemstones in jewelry. As
shown in FIGS. 1(a)-(e),
for round gemstones there are mainly five ways of setting them in jewelry. In
four of these
cases a collet is used. In FIGS. 1(a) and (b), a gemstone is mounted in a four-
prong collet and
a six-prong collet, respectively. In FIGS. 1(c) and (d), a gemstone is mounted
in a bezel collet
and a half-bezel collet, respectively. FIG. 1 (e) illustrates a setting where
a collet is absent and
the gem is held in place by means of a tensioned hoop, which takes on the form
of a ring
shank.
[0004] US Patent 795,109 to Dover describes a typical bezel setting where part
of the gemstone is
covered.
[0005] US Patent 5,115,649 to Amber describes a method and apparatus for
invisibly setting round
diamonds. The diamonds are provided with grooves cut in the pavilion below the
girdle of the
diamond, and a round barrel is provided which has ridges projecting inwardly
from the inner
wall of the barrel. The diamond is rotated into the barrel to interlock the
ridges within the
grooves formed in the diamond to hold the barrel and diamond securely
together. However,
during the wear of the jewelry the valuable gemstone may become unscrewed and
lost.
[0006] US Patent. 4,738,240 to Aich describes a dihedron notch on the edges of
a pyramid shaped
diamond. One of the two surfaces of the dihedron is parallel to an inclined
polished table to
minimize the grey reflections to the polished table of a diamond. This
approach has the
disadvantage that only a pyramid shaped diamond can be applied and the
polished table
needs to be inclined by about 7 to the natural table.
08922793CA - 1 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
,
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to holding a round gemstone securely in
place in jewelry in a way
that allows the full diameter of the gemstone to be visible. There is further
a need to a
gemstone that can be easily mounted onto a collet.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] According to one aspect of the invention there is provided a jewelry
article comprising: a
gemstone and a shape memory alloy collet. The gemstone comprises a girdle
dividing the
gemstone into a pavilion and a crown having a table surface; and a continuous
groove located
in the pavilion and parallel to the girdle, the continuous groove has a first
surface and a second
surface, the first surface is substantially parallel to the table surface, the
first surface and the
second surface of the groove form a first angle. The shape memory alloy collet
has a mounting
rim, the mounting rim has an inner surface and a top surface defining an
opening of the shape
memory alloy collet, the inner surface and the top surface form a second
angle, the second
angle corresponds substantially to the first angle, and a profile of the
mounting rim corresponds
substantially to a profile of the continuous groove.
[0009] In accordance with another aspect of the invention there is provided a
gemstone comprising: a
girdle dividing the gemstone into a pavilion and a crown having a table
surface; and a
continuous groove located in the pavilion and parallel to the girdle. The
continuous groove has
a first surface and a second surface, the first surface is substantially
parallel to the table
surface, the first surface and the second surface of the groove form a first
angle which
corresponds substantially to a second angle formed by an inner surface and a
top surface of a
mounting rim of a shape memory alloy collet. The inner surface and the top
surface define an
opening of the shape memory alloy collet, wherein a profile of the mounting
rim corresponds
substantially to a profile of the continuous groove.
pm
In accordance with yet another aspect of the invention there is
provided a shape memory alloy
collet comprising: a mounting rim, the mounting rim has an inner surface and a
top surface
defining an opening of the shape memory alloy collet. The inner surface and
the top surface
form a second angle, the second angle corresponds substantially to a first
angle formed by a
first surface and a second surface of a continuous groove located in a
pavilion and parallel to a
girdle of a gemstone. The gemstone has a crown including a table surface;
wherein the first
surface is substantially parallel to the table surface, and a profile of the
mounting rim
corresponds substantially to a profile of the continuous groove.
08922793CA - 2 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
[0011] Preferably, the gemstone has a round shape.
[0012] Preferably, the shape memory alloy collet is a titanium alloy collet.
[0013] Preferably, the first angle is between 75 and 85 degrees.
[0014] Preferably, the first angle is 80 degrees.
[0015] Preferably, the shape memory alloy collet has a plurality of holes for
cleaning an interior of the
shape memory alloy collet.
[0016] Preferably, the gemstone is selected from the group consisting of
diamond, ruby, sapphire and
alexandrite.
[0017] Preferably, a diameter of the round shape gemstone is at least 10%
greater than the opening
of the shape memory alloy collet.
[0018] Preferably, a wall of the shape memory alloy collet is thicker at a
bottom end.
[0019] Preferably, a diameter of the shape memory alloy collet at a bottom end
is less than that at the
mounting rim.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0020] These and other features of the invention will become more apparent
from the following
description in which reference is made to the appended drawings wherein:
FIG. 1(a) illustrates a prior art mounting of a gemstone in a four-prong
collet;
FIG. 1(b) illustrates a prior art mounting of a gemstone in a six-prong
collet;
FIG. 1(c) illustrates a prior art mounting of a gemstone in a bezel collet;
FIG. 1(d) illustrates a prior art mounting of a gemstone in a half-bezel
collet;
FIG. 1(e) illustrates a prior art mounting of a gemstone in a tensioned hoop
in a form of a ring
shank;
08922793CA - 3 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
FIG. 2 (a) is a sectional view of a shape memory alloy mounting collet in
accordance with one
embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 2 (b) is an enlarged view of the mounting rim of the shape memory alloy
mounting collet;
FIG. 3 is a top view of the shape memory alloy mounting collet;
FIG. 4 is a top perspective view of the shape memory alloy mounting collet;
FIG. 5 is a bottom view of the shape memory alloy mounting collet;
FIG. 6 is a bottom perspective view of a round grooved gemstone with a
continuous groove in
accordance with one embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 7 (a) illustrates the grooved gemstone in a sectional view;
FIG. 7 (b) shows the detail of the groove;
FIG. 7 (c) shows the angle of the groove and the direction of inclination;
FIG. 8 is a top view of the grooved gemstone in accordance with one embodiment
of the
present invention;
FIG. 9 is a bottom perspective view of the grooved gemstone;
FIG. 10 is a bottom view of the grooved gemstone;
FIG. 11 shows the mounted grooved gemstone in the shape memory alloy mounting
collet;
FIG. 12 shows the mounted grooved gemstone in the shape memory alloy mounting
collet in a
perspective view;
FIG. 13 shows an exploded view of the grooved gemstone and the shape memory
alloy
mounting collet;
FIG. 14 is a top perspective view of the assembled grooved gemstone and shape
memory alloy
collet; and
FIG. 15 is a bottom view of the mounted grooved gemstone in the shape memory
alloy collet.
08922793CA - 4 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0021] Reference will now be made in detail to some specific embodiments of
the invention including
the best modes contemplated by the inventors for carrying out the invention.
Examples of these
specific embodiments are illustrated in the accompanying drawings. While the
invention is
described in conjunction with these specific embodiments, it will be
understood that it is not
intended to limit the invention to the described embodiments. On the contrary,
it is intended to
cover alternatives, modifications, and equivalents as may be included within
the spirit and
scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. In the following
description,
numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough
understanding of the
present invention. The present invention may be practiced without some or all
of these specific
details. In other instances, well-known process operations have not been
described in detail in
order not to unnecessarily obscure the present invention.
[0022] In this specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a,"
"an," and "the" include
plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Unless
defined otherwise, all
technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly
understood to
one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs.
[0023] The present invention encompasses a method and a collet for holding a
round gemstone
securely in place in jewelry in a way that allows the full diameter of the
gemstone to be visible.
The mounting mechanism is by way of a shape memory alloy collet, for example
but not limited
to, a titanium alloy that snaps onto a grooved gemstone. The collet with the
mounted gemstone
may be then fixedly attached to a piece of jewelry.
[0024] The present invention differs from the prior art in that a conical
collet made of a shape memory
alloy, for example but not limited to, titanium alloy with shape memory is
being used. Unlike
with the prior art device where a deformable metal is used, the shape memory
alloy, for
example but not limited to, titanium alloy deforms slightly during the
mounting process, but
regains its original shape after fitting the gemstone into the collet.
[0025] A shape memory alloy is an alloy which upon being thermally treated
becomes fixed in a given
shape due to crystalline alignment, yet is relatively easily deformable. One
example of shape
memory alloy is the alloy of titanium and nickel. Other shape memory alloys
may include, but
08922793CA - 5 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
not limited to, copper-aluminum-nickel, gold-cadmium, copper-zinc aluminum,
silver cadmium,
silver-zinc, copper-aluminum and copper-zinc.
[0026] The mounting groove of the present invention is a continuous groove. In
the described
embodiment, the continuous groove is circular, corresponding to the shape of
the gemstone.
The continuous groove in the gemstone has the same profile as the mounting
receptacle of the
shape memory alloy collet, for example, titanium alloy collet. In the
described embodiment, the
shape is conical. This method of mounting gemstones allows for gemstones to be
mounted in
a secure way. The shape memory alloy collet containing the gemstone may then
be fixedly
attached to jewelry by means of laser welding or other mechanical means.
[0027] FIGS. 2-5 are different views of the shape memory alloy collet in
accordance with one
embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 (a) is a sectional view of a shape
memory alloy,
for example, titanium alloy mounting collet 200. The shape memory alloy
mounting collet 200
provides a mounting rim 202 which is inclined towards the center at a certain
angle 204, that is,
the angle formed by the inner surface 206 of the mounting rim 202 and the top
surface 208
forming an opening of the mounting collet, as illustrated in FIG. 2 (b). The
angle 204 is
preferably at 75-85 degrees, more preferably at 80 degrees. The shape memory
alloy mounting
collet may also comprise a plurality of holes 210 to facilitate cleaning.
Preferably, the mounting
collet wall is thicker at the bottom end 212 where the diameter is less than
at the mounting rim
202. This prevents any unplanned temporary deformation during the mounting
process.
[0028] FIG. 3 is a top view of the shape memory alloy mounting collet, while
FIG. 4 is a top
perspective view. FIG. 5 is a bottom view of the shape memory alloy mounting
collet. Although
four holes 210 to facilitate the cleaning process are indicated in FIGS. 3-5,
it should be
understood by a person skilled in the art that other appropriate number of
holes may be
provided, as determined by factors, for example but not limited to, the size
of the mounting
collet.
[0029] FIG. 6 is a bottom perspective view of a round grooved gemstone 600
with a continuous
groove 602 in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention.
[0030] FIG. 7 (a) illustrates the grooved gemstone 600 in a sectional view.
The groove 702 is
continuous and cut parallel with the table surface 704 of the gemstone 700. A
gemstone 700
generally has a girdle 706, dividing the gemstone into a crown 705 and a
pavilion 707. The
08922793CA - 6 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
continuous groove 702 is located in the pavilion 707 and offset sufficiently
away from the girdle
706 to reveal the full diameter of the grooved gemstone 700 once mounted in
the shape
memory alloy mounting collet. FIG. 7 (b) shows the detail of the groove and
FIG. 7 (c) shows
the angle of the groove and the direction of inclination. Preferably, the
groove 702 has two
s groove surfaces 708, 710. Groove surface 708 is substantially
parallel to the plane defined by
the table surface 704. Groove surface 710 forms an angle with the groove
surface 708.
Preferably, the angle is between 75 to 85 degrees, more preferably, the angle
is 80 degrees.
Advantageously, the angle formed by the surfaces 708, 710 of the groove 702
corresponds to
the angle 204 of the mounting rim 202 of the shape memory alloy collet.
[0031] FIG. 8 is a top view of the grooved gemstone 700 in accordance with one
embodiment of the
present invention. FIG. 9 is a bottom perspective view of the grooved gemstone
700 and FIG.
10 is a bottom view of the grooved gemstone 700. The gemstone 700 was designed
to ensure
maximum light return and a five-tier faceting technique is used on the
bottom/pavilion of the
gemstone to facilitate the cutting of the mounting groove as well as providing
ample faceting to
reflect as much light as possible. Design patent US D656,061S to one of the
present inventors
was adapted for this purpose.
[0032] FIG. 11 shows the mounted grooved gemstone 1102 in the shape memory
alloy mounting
collet 1104. FIG. 12 shows the mounted grooved gemstone 1102 in the shape
memory alloy
collet 1104 in a perspective view. Preferably, the diameter of the grooved
gemstone 1102 is
10% greater than the widest diameter of the opening of the shape memory alloy
mounting
collet to hide the mounting collet from view in the perpendicular or slightly
tilted line of sight.
FIG. 13 shows an exploded view of the grooved gemstone 1102 and the shape
memory alloy
mounting collet 1104.
[0033] FIG. 14 is a top perspective view of the assembled grooved gemstone and
shape memory alloy
collet. FIG. 15 is a bottom view of the mounted grooved gemstone in the shape
memory alloy
collet.
[0034] In general, the size of the groove in the gemstone matches that of the
rim of the shape memory
alloy mounting collet. Once the grooved gemstone is pressed into the mounting
collet, the
groove in the gemstone is biased toward the profile of the rim of the collet.
The collet rim and
gemstone groove is of the same size, resulting in a secure interference fit
once the groove
gemstone is snapped into place.
08922793CA - 7 -
CA 02790467 2012-09-20
,
,
[0035] The illustrated embodiment utilizes a round gemstone and a
corresponding shape memory
alloy mounting collet. It should be apparent to a person skilled in the art
that other shapes, for
example but not limited to, pyramid or oval shape, may also be used without
departing from the
scope of the invention.
[0036] In general, a continuous groove is cut into the gemstone to be mounted
into the corresponding
shape memory alloy mounting collet. Preferably, the groove is cut into the
gemstone just below
the girdle on the pavilion, also known as the bottom of the gemstone. Once the
gemstone is
prepared, a shape memory alloy mounting collet is pressed onto the gemstone to
snap into
place into the continuous groove of the gemstone. The continuous groove of the
gemstone and
the protruding rim of the collet are of the same size resulting in a very
secure interference fit.
This method of setting gemstones is particularly suited for gemstones with a
hardness of
greater than 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, for example diamonds, rubies,
sapphire and
alexandrite.
[0037] The continuous groove in the gemstone is cut to conform to the shape of
the mating area of
the shape memory alloy mounting collet. The continuous groove of the gemstone
is cut by
laser or diamond impregnated profiling wheels. The protruding rim of the shape
memory alloy
mounting collet is advantageously biased toward the continuous groove of the
gemstone, once
in place. Gemstones mounted by means of this method appear to be 'floating' as
the method of
setting is out of sight or invisible if viewed perpendicularly. Due to the
shape of the collet, the
jewelry piece has to be tilted significantly in order for the collet to be
seen. An additional
advantage of this method of setting is that the full diameter of the gem is
visible without any
metal covering parts of the crown of the gemstone.
[0038] The shape memory alloy mounting collets may be anodized to match the
particular color of the
precious metal of the jewelry piece into which the mounted gemstone would be
fitted. The
toughness of shape memory alloy, for example titanium alloy, is a well-known
fact and setting
gemstones this way ensures that the gems will not be lost due to prongs
wearing off.
[0039] The present invention has been described with regard to one or more
embodiments. However,
it will be apparent to persons skilled in the art that a number of variations
and modifications can
be made without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the
claims.
08922793CA - 8 -
