Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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DESCRIPTION
"SEWING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR SEWING TOGETHER, BY MEANS OF
SAID SEWING MACHINE, AT LEAST TWO OVERLAPPING FLAPS OF TEXTILE"
*********
The present invention relates to a sewing machine of the "overlock" "cut-and-
sew" type for sewing together at least two superposed flaps of textile and
belonging to one or more textile articles. The invention further relates to a
process for sewing together at least two superposed flaps of textile by means
of
a sewing machine of the overlock cut-and-sew type.
io The "overlock" "cut-and-sew" sewing machine can be for example a machine
of
the type products by UNION SPECIAL in one of the models from the 9M
series, or the like, as described for example in the relative instruction
manual
and catalog, 103XQA-GR, of November 2006.
The type of stitch known as overlock or also as overedge is in itself widely
known in the sector and will therefore not be described in further detail in
the
present description. As is known, this type of sewing machine can be used for
numerous applications, among which also the sewing of light-textile articles
such as ladies' tights, and the like. These sewing machines are in particular
applicable as components of known machines for assembling textile articles
automatically, in which a plurality of articles are assembled to one another
(for
example the assembling of two tubular stocking legs to form a single textile
article known as panty-hose).
In the field of these assembly machines of textile articles, sewing machines
of
the overlock cut-and-sew type completely automatically perform the cutting of
at least two flaps of textile, by moving appropriate sewing needles and
elements
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of known type known as "crotchets", without any intervention by an operator.
It is known that the type of sewing realised by sewing machines of the
overlock
cut-and-sew type, in which two flaps of textiles are sewn superposed on one
another, can in some cases exhibit an excessive thickness for an optimal use
of
the product, and thus can be aesthetically unattractive and uncomfortable for
the
wearer of the product.
An example of this known type of sewing machine is described in patent
US3,079,882A (Washburn) which illustrates a sewing machine of the overedge
type with a specific needle plate and two sewing needs.
=
The two-stitch sewing realised by this machine enables effective sewing of the
two flaps of the textile, but is excessively thick for some particular
applications,
for example for sewing tights and in general light textiles, with respect to
which
the presence of the stitching in relief can be annoying.
A further example of a sewing machine of the overedge type is illustrated in
patent US3,885,509A (Cox), which describes a machine provided with three
sewing needles cooperating with a needle plate having two passage seatings for
the needles, so that a first needle passes in the relative seating, and the
remaining two needles pass in another common seating. This solution is
proposed in the attempt to obtain a stitching that is less thick and equally
efficient, but the result is only partially satisfying.
A third solution that has been proposed is illustrated in patent US6,167,825
(Marchetti), in which the sewing machine of the overlock type is equipped with
two sewing needles and with a needle plate having a lateral appendage having a
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first portion with substantially parallel sides and a second portion which
narrows.
Such solution was aimed at enabling obtaining an "Overlock" stitching which
might thereafter be better stretched out, better separating the two sewn flaps
of
textile, and therefore having a less thick seam. This solution too is not
without
drawbacks, as the presence of the first parallel position can obstruct the
sliding
of the sewing stitches and as the conformation of the needle plate illustrated
in
o the patent determines a stitching that is not very tight at the point of
join of the
two textile flaps, with the risk, especially in the case of light textiles, of
an
opening appearing in the stitching at some points, with aesthetic and
functional
drawbacks.
The aim of the present invention is to obviate one or more of the above-
is described drawbacks.
An aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an overlock cut-and-
sew type which enables sewing together at least two flaps of textile that are
= overlapping and belonging to one or more textile articles, such as to
realise
= textile articles of high quality and substantially free of imperfections.
20 A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an
overlock
cut-and-sew type which enables reducing production waste.
A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an overlock
cut-and-sew type which enables obtaining sewing of a high quality and
perfectly
"closed" at the joining point between the two flaps of textile.
25 A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an
overlock
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cut-and-sew type which enables obtaining stitched seams which are controlledly
extendable to achieve a sewing effect that is wider and/or flatter with
respect to
known stitched seams.,
= A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an
overlock
cut-and-sew type which enables obtaining products having a high degree of
uniformity within the range of the various articles produced.
A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an overlock
cut-and-sew type which enables obtaining stitched seams simply, rapidly and
= automatically, in particular also integrating the sewing machine in an
automatic
io machine for assembly of textile articles.
A further aim of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of an overlock
cut-and-sew type which is simple, sturdy and economical to manufacture, also
in
terms of modest modifications with respect to the sewing machines of known
type.
These and other aims besides, which will better emerge during the course, of
the
following description, are substantially attained by a sewing of an overlock
cut-
and-sew type, and a process for use thereof, according to the appended claims,
in any combination with one another and/or with one or more of the aspects
indicated herein below.
In an aspect, the invention further relates to a sewing machine,
according to any one of the appended claims or indicated aspects, in which the
upper crochet is supplied with the tying thread and the lower crochet is not
supplied with the tying thread and is therefore "blind", or wherein the lower
crochet is supplied with the tying thread and the upper crochet is not
supplied
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with the tying thread and is therefore "blind", or wherein both the upper and
lower crochets are supplied with the tying thread.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the claims
or
aspects indicated in the following, the invention further relates to a sewing
5 machine, according to any one of the appended claims or indicated
aspects,
wherein at least one of the seatings for passage of sewing needles is
dimensioned and configured for the passage of two adjacent sewing needles.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the claims
or
aspects indicated in the following, the invention further relates to a sewing
machine, according to any one of the appended claims or indicated aspects,
comprising at least two separating portions or wherein the separating portions
each exhibit a thickness of at least 0.6mm or at least 0.8mm or at least 1 mm.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the claims
or
aspects indicated in the following, the invention further relates to a sewing
machine, according to any one of the appended claims or indicated aspects,
wherein the separating portions exhibit a longitudinal extension along an
advancement direction of the flaps of textile of at least 0.5 cm, or at least
1 cm,
or at least 1.5 cm.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the claims
or
zo aspects indicated in the following, the invention further relates to a
sewing
machine, according to any one of the appended claims or indicated aspects,
wherein the needle plate is made of a metal material and wherein the openings
defining the seatings are realised by slot-milling of the needle plate.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the
aspects indicated in the following, the invention further relates to a sewing
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machine, according to any one of the indicated aspects, wherein the separating
portions are
defined by separating elements mounted on the needle plate at the
corresponding mounting
seatings.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of the claims
or aspects indicated
s 5 in the following, the invention further relates to a sewing machine,
according to any one of the
appended claims or indicated aspects, wherein the sliding line of the lateral
appendage exhibits, at
least in a tract extending between the passage zone of the sewing needles and
an end portion of the
appendage, or over a whole extension thereof, a conformation which is
substantially curved and
transversal with respect to a prevalent longitudinal development direction of
the lateral appendage
and/or to the sliding direction of said flaps of textile.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any aspects indicated
in the following, the
invention further relates to a sewing machine, according to any one of the
indicated aspects,
wherein the substantially curved conformation is substantially concave or
wherein the
substantially curved conformation is substantially convex.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any aspects indicated
in the following, the
invention further relates to a sewing machine, according to any one of the
indicated aspects,
wherein the stretching device of the tying thread from the upper crotchet
and/or the lower crotchet
is a stretcher blade oscillating in synchrony with the sewing needle-bearing
device.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any aspects indicated
in the following, the
invention further relates to a sewing machine, according to any one of the
indicated aspects,
wherein the sewing machine is automatic and/or integrated in a machine for
assembling textile
articles.
In a further aspect, taken alone or in combination with any one of aspects
indicated in the
following, the invention further relates to a sewing machine, according to any
one of the indicated
aspects, wherein the needle thread feeder and the tying thread feeder are of
an active type, able to
actively supply the thread to the needles or the crotchets or wherein the
needle thread feeder and
the tying thread feeder are passive and able to passively supply the thread
which is pulled directly
by the needles or crochets.
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In a further aspect, the invention further relates to a needle plate according
to the aspects indicated
in the below following.
In a further aspect, the invention further relates to a needle-bearing device
according to the
characteristics or aspects indicated in the following.
In a further aspect, the invention further relates to a sewing device of the
overlock cut-and-sew
type, comprising at least a needle plate and at least three sewing needles,
according to the aspects
indicated herein below.
In a further aspect, the invention further relates to a machine for assembling
textile articles
comprising a sewing machine according to the aspects indicated herein.
In a further aspect, the invention further relates to equipment for a sewing
machine of an overlock
cut-and-sew type for sewing together at least two flaps of textile that are
overlapping and
belonging to one or more textile articles, the equipment comprising at least a
needle plate suitable
for supporting at least two overlapping flaps of textile of one or more
textile articles which are
sliding for forming sewing stitches, the needle plate being provided with
through-openings
defining respective seatings for passage of sewing needles and at least a
lateral appendage
defining a sliding line for the sewing stitches; and further comprising at
least a sewing needle-
bearing device, provided with three sewing needles mounted on said sewing
needle-bearing
device, reciprocally flanked, aligned to one another and supplied with
respective sewing threads,
the sewing needles being suitable for passing through the seatings of the
needle plate for sewing
the overlapping flaps of textile, the needle plate being provided with at
least three of said seatings
for passage of the sewing needles, each of the seatings for passage of the
sewing needles being
configured for being crossed by at least a respective sewing needle, the
needle plate being
provided with respective separating portions suitable for at least partially
separating each seating
for passage of sewing needles from the adjacent seatings for passage of
needles, at least at the
passage zone of the needles, such as to enable formation in parallel of at
least three sewing
stitches that are distinct and reciprocally distanced from one another.
In a further aspect, the invention relates to a sewing machine of an overlock
cut-and-sew type for
sewing together at least two flaps of textile that are overlapping and
belonging to one or more
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textile articles, comprising at least: a needle plate suitable for supporting
at least two overlapping
flaps of textile of one or more textile articles which are sliding for forming
sewing stitches, the
needle plate being provided with through-openings defining respective seatings
for passage of
sewing needles and of at least a lateral appendage defining a sliding line for
the sewing stitches; a
lower crochet hook; an upper crochet hook; an advancing device suitable for
advancing said
overlapping flaps of textile along an advancement direction with respect to
said needle plate
during a sewing operation; a device for cutting said overlapping flaps of
textile in correspondence
of a cutting line of the textile, in proximity and upstream of said lateral
appendage along said
advancement direction of said flaps of textile; at least a thread feeder for
needles suitable for
supplying sewing thread to the needles of said sewing machine; at least a
tying thread feeder for
supplying tying thread to at least one from between said upper crochet and
said lower crochet; a
stretcher device of the tying thread from at least one of said upper crochet
and said lower crochet;
at least a sewing needle-bearing device; wherein at least three sewing needles
mounted on said
sewing needle-bearing device, reciprocally flanked, are aligned to one another
and supplied with
respective sewing threads, said sewing needles being suitable for passing
through said seatings of
the needle plate for sewing the overlapping flaps of textile, said needle
plate being provided with
at least three of said seatings for passage of the sewing needles, each of
said seatings for passage
of the sewing needles being configured for being crossed by at least a
respective sewing needle,
the needle plate being provided with respective separating portions suitable
for at least partially
separating each seating for passage of sewing needles from the adjacent
seatings for passage of
needles, at least at the passage zone of the needles, such as to enable
formation in parallel of at
least three sewing stitches that are distinct and reciprocally distanced from
one another.
Further characteristics and advantages will more fully emerge from the
detailed description of a
preferred but not exclusive embodiment, according to the accompanying figures
of the drawings,
in which:
figure 1 is a perspective view of some components of a sewing machine
according to an
embodiment of the present invention;
figure 2 is a perspective view of some components of a sewing machine
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according to an embodiment of the present invention;
figure 3 is a larger-scale view of a component of figure 1, in particular a
needle-
bearing device;
figure 4 is a larger-scale view of a component of figure 1, in particular a
lower
crotchet;
figure 5 is a larger-scale view from above of a component of figure 1, in
particular a needle plate;
figure 6 is a detail of the sewing machine of figure 1 relating to a forming
step
of the sewing stitches, with a needle plate sectioned for the sake of clarity;
o figure 7 is a view from above of a forming step of sewing stitches on two
flaps
of textile, at the needle plate of figure 5;
figure 8 is a front view in section of the needle plate of figure 7, with the
sewing
stitches illustrated, realised at the needle plate;
figure 9 is a plan view of two flaps of textile sewn with a process according
to
an embodiment of the present invention, as illustrated in figure 7, in which
the
textiles have been partially separated, stretching the stitches sewn;
figure 10 is a lateral view of the two flaps of textile of figure 9, sewn
using a
process according to an embodiment of the present invention and partially
separated by stretching the stitches sewn.
With reference to the figures, 1 denotes in its entirety a sewing machine of
an
overlock cut-and-sew type for sewing together at least two flaps 3a, 3b of
textile
that are overlapping and belonging to one or more textile articles.
Figure 1 illustrates some essential components of the sewing machine 1. The
remaining parts of the sewing machine 1 are of known type and therefore are
not
illustrated in the accompanying drawings and are not described in detail in
the
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present description.
The sewing machine 1 comprises at least a needle plate 2 able to support at
least
two superposed flaps 3a, 3b of textile, of one or more sliding textile
articles, for
forming sewing stitches.
5 The needle-bearing plate 2 is provided with through-openings defining
respective seatings 4 for the passage of sewing needles 5 and at least a
lateral
appendage 6 defining a sliding line 7 for the sewing stitches 10a, 10b, 10c.
The needle-bearing plate 2 is provided with at least three seatings 4 for
passage
of sewing needles 5, each of the seatings 4 for passage of sewing needles 5
1 o being configured such as to be crossed by at least a respective sewing
needle 5.
The needle-bearing plate 2 is provided with respective separating portions 8
able
to at least partly separate each seating for passage of sewing needles 5 from
the
seatings 4 for the passage of adjacent sewing needles 5, at least at the
passage
zone 9 of the needles 5, so as to enable forming at least three sewing
stitches
10a, 10b, 10c that are distinct and reciprocally distant from one another.
Each of the seatings 4 for the passage of sewing needles 5 can be dimensioned
and configured for passage of a single and corresponding sewing needle, as in
the embodiment illustrated in the appended drawings. The seatings 4 for the
passage of sewing needles 5 can be entirely separate from one another over the
whole extension thereof by means of the separating portions 8. The seatings 4
for the passage of sewing needles 5 can be defined by through-openings that
are
entirely distinct from one another.
The needle plate 2 can comprise at least two separating portions or in which
the
separating portions 8 each exhibit a thickness of at least 0.6mm or at least
0.8mm or at least lmm. The separating portions 8 can exhibit a longitudinal
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extension along an advancement direction of the flaps 3a, 3b of textile of at
least
0.5 cm, or at least 1 cm or at least 1.5 cm.
The needle plate 2 can be made of a metal material and the openings defining
the seatings 4 can be realised by slot-milling of the needle plate 2.
Alternatively,
for example, the separating portions 8 can be defined by separating elements
mounted on the needle plate 2 at corresponding mounting seatings.
In a variant embodiment, not illustrated, at least one of the seatings 4 for
sewing
needle 5 passage can be dimensioned and configured for enabling passage of
two adjacent sewing needles 5, and therefore four needles 5 can be provided,
io passing in three seatings 4, two needles 5 being passing in a common
seating.
The sewing machine 1 further comprises at least a sewing needle-bearing device
11, such as for example a needle-bearing bar.
The sewing machine 1 further comprises at least three sewing needles 5
mounted on the sewing needle-bearing 11 device, reciprocally flanked, aligned
to one another and supplied with respective sewing threads 10 for needles. The
sewing needles 5 are suitable for passing through the seatings 4 of the needle
plate 2 for sewing the overlapping flaps 3a, 3b of textile.
The needles 5 can be mounted on the needle-bearing device 11 with a reciprocal
distance defined by an interaxis comprised between 1.4 e 2.8mm, or between
1.,5 and 2.5mm or between 1.6 and 2.0mm, corresponding to the distances
between the eyelets 19 of the needles 5 from which the respective sewing
threads exit.
The needles 5 can be equi-distanced, being mounted on the needle-bearing
device (11) at equal distances between adjacent needles (5).
In a variant which is not illustrated the needles can be mounted with
different
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interaxes between them. The needles can be of a same size and can be supplied
with identical threads, or different threads of the same size. Alternatively
the
needles can exhibit different sizes and be supplied with threads of different
sizes.
As can be seen in figure 7, the sliding line of the lateral appendage 6
exhibits, at
least in a tract extending between the sewing needle 5 passage zone 9 and a
front
end portion of the appendage 6, or over the whole extension thereof, a
substantially straight conformation that is transversal with respect to a
prevalent
longitudinal direction of the lateral appendage 6 and/or the sliding direction
of
io the flaps 3a, 3b of textile.
The lateral appendage 6 can exhibit a front portion 6a having a narrowed end,
having a thickness, measured in a through-plane for an upper rest surface of
the
needle plate 2, of less than 2 mm or less than 1 mm or less than 0.5 mm.
The lateral appendage 6 can exhibit a rear base portion 6b, opposite the front
end portion, having a transversal thickness at the longitudinal extension
comprised between 4 rnm and 7 mm, or between 5 mm and 6.5 mm, or between
5.5 e 6 mm.
The lateral appendage 6 can exhibit, at the passage zone 9 of the sewing
needles
5, a thickness 6c transversal to the longitudinal extension, comprised between
3
mm and 6 mm, or between 4mm and 5.5mm, or between 4.2 and 5mm. The
transversal thickness can be greater than 3mm, or greater than 3.5mm, or
greater
than 4 mm, or greater than 4.2mm.
Alternatively the sliding line 7 of the lateral appendage 6 can exhibit, at
least in
a portion extending between the passage zone 9 of the sewing needles 5 and a
terminal end of the appendage 6, or in all the extension thereof, a
substantially
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curved conformation that is transversal with respect to a prevalent
longitudinal
extension direction of the lateral appendage 6 and/or to the sliding direction
of
the flaps 3a, 3b of textile. The substantially curved conformation can be
substantially concave or substantially convex.
As can be seen in figure 8, at least the lateral appendage 6 defining a
sliding line
and/or at least one of the separating portions 8 and/or all the separating
portions
8 can be inferiorly terminated or tapered to allow for passage of the lower
crochet in proximity of the needle plate 2.
The sewing machine 1 can further comprise an advancing device (not illustrated
io as of known and conventional type) able to advance the flaps 32a, 3b of
superposed textile along an advancement direction with respect to the needle
plate 2 during a sewing operation.
The sewing machine 1 can further comprise a device 12 for cutting the flaps
3a,
3b of superposed textile at a cutting line 20 of the textile, in proximity to
and
15 upstream of the lateral appendage 6 along the advancement direction of
the flaps
3a, 3b of textile, as illustrated in figure 7.
The sewing machine 1 can further comprise at least a thread feeder for needles
5
able to supply sewing thread 10 to the needles 5 of the sewing machine.
The sewing machine 1 further comprises at least a lower crochet 14 and at
least
20 an upper crochet 15, able to contribute to the forming of the stitches
10a, 10b,
10c.
The sewing machine 1 further comprises at least a tying thread feeder 16 able
to
supply tying thread to at least from between the upper crochet 15 and the
lower
crochet 14.
25 In a first embodiment, illustrated in the figures, the lower crochet 14
is supplied
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with the tying thread 17 and the upper crochet 15 is not supplied with the
tying
thread 17 and therefore is of the "blind" type.
In a variant that is not illustrated, the upper crochet 15 can be supplied
with the
tying thread 17 and the lower crochet 14 can be not supplied with the tying
thread 17 and therefore of the "blind" type.
In a further variant, not illustrated, both the upper crochet 15 and the lower
crochet can be supplied with the tying thread 17. In the illustrated
embodiment,
the lower crochet 14, supplied with tying thread 17, contributes to the
formation
of the sewing stitches 10a, 10b, 10c with the respective tying thread 17 which
io cooperates with the sewing thread 10, while the upper crochet 15, not
supplied,
or "blind", contributes to the forming of the sewing stitches 10a, 10b, 10c by
operating on the tying thread 17 supplied by the lower crochet 14.
The sewing machine 1 further comprises a stretcher device 18 of the tying
thread 17 from the upper crochet 15 and/or from the lower crochet 14. The
stretcher device 18 of the tying thread 17 from the upper crochet 15 and/or
from
the lower crochet 14 can be for example a stretcher blade oscillating in
synchrony with the sewing needle-bearing device 11.
The thread feeder 13 for needles 5 and the thread feeder 16 of tying thread
can
be of the active type, able to actively supply the thread to the needles 5 or
to the
crochets, or alternatively the needle thread feeder 13 and the tying thread
feeder
16 can be of the passive type and able to passively supply the thread which is
pulled directly by the needles 5 or by the crochets.
In a variant that is not illustrated, the sewing machine 1 can comprise four
of the
sewing needles 5 mounted on the needle-bearing device 11 and the needle plate
can be provided with four of the openings for the passage of sewing needles 5.
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The invention further relates to an equipment for a sewing machine 1 of the
overlock sew-and-cut type, the equipment comprising at least a needle plate 2
and at least three sewing needles 5, such as to enable the formation of at
least
three sewing stitches 10a, 10b, 10c distinct and reciprocally distanced from
one
5 another, as described above.
The equipment essentially comprises the components illustrated in figure 1.
The
sewing machine 1 can be automatic, in particular in the case in which it is
integrated in a machine for assembly of the textile articles.
The invention further relates to a machine for assembling textile articles, of
10 known type and thus not described in the present text, comprising a
sewing
machine 1 of the above-described type. The sewing machine will not be
described in greater detail as the remaining parts thereof are conventional
and of
known type.
The present invention further relates to a process for sewing together at
least two
15 superposed flaps 3a, 3b of textile with a sewing machine 1 of the
overlock cut-
and-sew type, comprising at least steps of: providing at least two superposed
flaps 3a, 3b of textile at a needle plate 2 of a sewing machine 1 of the
overlock
cut-and-sew type, the needle plate 2 being provided with at least three
openings,
at least partially distinct from one another, for the passage of sewing
needles 5;
advancing the flaps 3a, 3b of textile with respect to the needle plate 2;
progressively cutting a lateral portion of the flaps 3a, 3b of textile;
causing each
of the three openings for the passage of sewing needles 5 to be passed through
by at least a respective sewing needle supplied with a respective sewing
thread
10, such that the at least three reciprocally-flanked sewing needles 5 sew the
flaps 3a, 3b of textile to each other, realising at least three distinct
sewing
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stitches 10a, 10b, 10c, cooperating with at least a lower crochet 14 and with
at
least an upper crochet 15, at least one of the crochets being supplied with a
tying
thread 17.
Various aspects of the process, corresponding to the further aspects described
above in relation to the sewing machine, are not repeated herein.
The further aspects of the forming process of the sewing stitches not
described
in detail in the present description and not deriving from peculiar
characteristics
of the sewing machine as described above are to be considered of conventional
type.
o The invention as it is conceived is susceptible to numerous modifications
and
variants, all falling within the scope of the inventive concept, and the cited
components can be substituted by other technically-equivalent elements.
The invention provides important advantages
Primarily the invention enables obviating at least some of the drawbacks of
the
prior art.
The invention further enables sewing together at least two superposed flaps of
textile belonging to one or more textile articles, realising textile articles
of high
quality and substantially free of imperfections.
The invention further enables obtaining high-quality and perfectly "closed"
seams in the join points between the two flaps of textile and/or reducing
production waste.
The invention further enables obtaining seams that are extendable in a
controlled
way such as to provide a wider stitching effect and/or a flatter stitching
effect
with respect to the known stitching.
The invention further enables obtaining productions with high levels of
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uniformity between the various articles produced.
The invention further enables realising stitching simply, rapidly and
automatically, in particular also by integrating the sewing machine in an
automatic machine for assembling textile articles of known type.
The invention is also simple, sturdy and relatively economical to manufacture,
and guarantees high standards of repeatability and safety.
