Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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KNITTED BRA HAVING VARIABLE ELASTICITY
TECHNICAL FIELD
The invention relates to a brassiere which is made of circular knit-fabric and
which
includes a plurality of portions having variable elasticity.
BACKGROUND
It is known to make a knit-fabric brassiere, in particular circular or tubular
knit-fabric
brassiere, such as the brassiere described and shown in the document U.S. Pat.
No.
4,531,525.
This brassiere type, which is made by means of a circular knitting machine
provided for
this end, has the advantage of being comfortable to wear and of offering some
flexibility
and elastic extensibility.
A brassiere described and shown in the document U.S. Pat. No. 7,163,432, which
aims in
particular to propose a brassiere adjustable to different sizes, is also
known.
According to this document, the brassiere includes a first knitted cup and a
second knitted
cup which are transversely aligned and each have a generally hemispherical
shape.
Conventionally, the brassiere includes a strip for attaching the back and a
pair of straps.
Each cup includes a first lower peripheral portion which is made of knit-
fabric, for
supporting the chest.
Complementarily, each cup is supported by a lower tubular added underwire
forming a
stiffener, which is sewn or glued under each cup.
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Although this type of brassiere offers some elasticity, allowing to adapt to
different sizes,
the added underwire risks to cause discomfort to the person wearing the
brassiere.
In addition, the underwire attachment on the brassiere requires an additional
manufacturing operation.
BRIEF SUMMARY
To overcome these drawbacks in particular, the invention proposes a brassiere
made of
knit-fabric, of the type including at least:
a first knitted cup and a second knitted cup which are transversely aligned
and which
have each a generally hemispherical shape, each cup including a first
elastically
extensible peripheral portion which is made of knit-fabric, for supporting the
chest,
a part forming a stiffener which extends at least partially under each cup,
and
a strip for attaching the back of the brassiere,
characterized in that the stiffener forms an underwire strip which surrounds
at least
partially the first peripheral supporting portion of each cup, and in that the
stiffener is
made of knit-fabric according to a first type of stitch designed to replace an
added
underwire.
Thus, the invention allows to provide a brassiere allowing an optimal chest
holding
without the need to resort to added underwires nor to thermoformed cups.
According to another characteristic, the stiffener has a low or null elastic
extensibility
according to a vertical direction, perpendicular to a transverse direction, so
as to support
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the chest.
In addition, the first peripheral supporting portion of each cup has a
vertical elastic
extensibility superior to that of the stiffener, and in that said first
portion is vertically
responsive, so as to lift the chest without crushing it.
Also, each cup includes a second inner annular portion which is adjacent to
the first
portion, which is transversely and vertically elastically extensible, and
which has a
vertical and transverse elastic extensibility superior or equal to that of the
first portion.
The second portion allows in particular to give depth to the cups when the
brassiere is
worn.
According to another aspect, the stiffener and the first portion of each cup
includes a
number of stitches per unit area which is inferior to the number of stitches
per unit area of
the second portion of each cup, to make the stiffener and said first portion
less
transversely extensible than the second portion.
In addition, each cup includes a third central portion which is adjacent to
the second
.. portion, which has a generally circular shape arranged generally at the
center of the
associated cup, and which has a vertical and transverse elastic extensibility
inferior to that
of the nearby second portion.
Similarly, the third portion includes a number of stitches per unit area which
is inferior to
the number of stitches per unit area of the second portion of each cup, to
make the third
portion less transversely extensible than the second portion.
Also, each portion of each cup is made of knit-fabric according to a different
stitch type.
In addition, the stiffener forms a central strip which connects the first cup
and the second
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cup together so as to limit their transverse spacing.
Finally, the different portions of each cup, the stiffener and the strip for
attaching the
back are made in one piece by circular knitting.
This characteristic allows to make a large part of the brassiere according to
the invention
on a circular knitting machine in one single knitting step.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will become apparent
upon reading
the detailed description which follows for the understanding of which
reference will be
made to the appended drawings in which:
FIG. 1 is a perspective view, which illustrates a brassiere made of knit-
fabric including a
plurality of portions having variable elasticity, according to the invention;
FIG. 2 is a plan view, which illustrates the brassiere of FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is a schematic front view, which illustrates a first stitch type
foirning a stiffener;
FIG. 4 is a schematic front view similar to FIG. 3, which illustrates a second
stitch type
forming a first portion of each cup;
FIG. 5 is a schematic front view similar to FIG. 3, which illustrates a third
stitch type
forming a second portion of each cup;
FIG. 6 is a schematic front view similar to FIG. 3, which illustrates a fourth
stitch type
farming a third portion each cup.
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
To clarify the description and the claims, the longitudinal, vertical and
transverse
terminology will be adopted without limitation, with reference to trihedral L,
V, T
indicated in the figures.
Is shown in FIG. 1 a brassiere 10 made of knit-fabric which is shown in a
configuration
worn by a standing person, so that the transverse direction T shown by the
trihedral L, V,
T in FIG. 1 corresponds to a horizontal direction.
The brassiere 10 includes a first knitted cup 12a and a second knitted cup 12b
which are
transversely aligned and which have each a generally hemispherical shape, of a
convexity
oriented forward according to a longitudinal direction.
In addition, the brassiere 10 includes a strip 14 for attaching the back which
is here
composed of a first section 16a and of a second section 16b which are joinable
together in
the back of the user by a removable fastening means 17, shown in FIG. 2.
The fastening means 17 is of the clip and of the complementary notches type,
for
example.
However, without limitation, the brassiere 10 can also be designed to be
fastened from
the front, between the two cups 12a, 12b, according to a not shown design
example.
Similarly, the brassiere 10 can be made of tube without fastening means, to be
slipped
through the head.
The strip 14 for attaching the back is made of knit-fabric extensible
according to a
transverse direction corresponding to its large length.
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Moreover, the brassiere 10 is equipped with a pair of straps 18a, 18b which
are designed
to support the brassiere 10 on the shoulders of the user.
As it can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2, the brassiere 10 includes a knit-fabric
part 20 which is
called "stiffener" 20 in the following of the description.
The stiffener 20 forms in particular an underwire strip 22 which extends under
each cup
12a, 12b to promote the support and the holding of each cup 12a, 12b.
To this end, the underwire strip 22 of the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower
periphery of
each cup 12a, 12b, generally the lower half of each cup 12a, 12b.
In addition, the stiffener 20 forms a central strip 24 which connects the
first cup 12a and
the second cup 12b together so as to limit their transverse spacing relative
to each other.
Also, the stiffener 20 forms a first side strip 26a which connects the first
cup 12a on the
first section 16a, and a second side strip 26b which connects the second cup
12b on the
second section 16b of the attaching strip 14.
The stiffener 20 is made of knit-fabric according to a first stitch type 28
illustrated in
FIG. 3 and described later, which is designed to replace an added underwire,
such as a
metal underwire, for example.
For this purpose, the first stitch type 28 of the stiffener 20 has a low or
even null elastic
extensibility, according to a vertical direction.
Here, "low elastic extensibility" means an extensibility which is inferior or
equal to
twenty percent, and preferably inferior or equal to ten percent relative to a
rest state of the
knit-fabric.
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According to another aspect, each cup 12a, 12b includes, from the periphery
toward the
center of the cup, a first portion 30a, 30b, a second portion 32a, 32b, and a
third portion
34a, 34b respectively.
The first portion 30a, 30b forms the lower periphery of each cup 12a, 12b, so
as to
support the chest.
As it can be seen in FIG. 1, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b
surrounds
substantially three quarters of each cup 12a, 12b, including a lower half and
an upper
outer side quarter, at the side of the arm of the user.
In addition, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b is elastically
extensible and it
is made of knit-fabric according to a second stitch type 36 which will be
described
afterward.
Moreover, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a, 12b has a vertical
elastic
extensibility superior to that of the stiffener 20.
Similarly, the first portion 30a, 30b of each cup 12a. 12b is sufficiently
vertically
responsive to lift the chest without crushing it.
The term "responsive" translates here a capacity to exert a vertically
important restoring
force when the knit-fabric is taut.
Complementarily, the second portion 32a, 32b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a ring
which is
arranged inside the first portion 30a, 30b.
In addition, the second portion 32a, 32b is elastically extensible according
to a transverse
direction and it has an elastic extensibility superior to that of the first
portion 30a, 30b, so
as to obtain a satisfactory depth of the cups 12a, 12b.
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To this end the second portion 32a. 32b is made of knit-fabric according a
third stitch
type 38 which is described afterward.
Finally, the third portion 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b forms a circle which
is arranged
at the center of the associated cup and which is surrounded by the second
adjacent
portion 32a, 32b.
In addition, the third portion 34a, 34b is elastically extensible and it has
an elastic
extensibility inferior to that of the second portion 32a, 32b.
To this end, the third portion 34a, 34b is made of knit-fabric according to a
fourth stitch
type 40 described afterward.
The different portions 30a, 30b. 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b, the
stiffener 20
and the strip 14 for attaching the back are made in one piece by circular
knitting.
In addition, the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b, 34a, 34b of each cup
12a, 12b are
arranged in a generally concentric way, as it can be seen in FIGS. 1 and 2.
In FIGS. 3 to 6 the visual rendering of a unit area 42 of the first stitch
type 28, of the
second stitch type 36, of the third stitch type 38 and of the fourth stitch
type 40
respectively, is schematically shown, each unit area 42 being constituted of
eight
transverse rows of yarns forming eight vertical columns of knit-fabric.
The eight yarn rows of each knit-fabric stitch type are successively
constituted of a
covered yarn Fl, a first polypropylene yarn F2, a first textured yarn F3, a
second
polypropylene yarn F4, flat yarn F5, a third polypropylene yarn F6, a second
textured
yarn F7 and a fourth polypropylene yarn F8.
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It is meant by ''covered yarn" a yarn constituted of a central part called
core, and of a
peripheral part called coverage.
The central part is an elastane or natural rubber yarn, for example, which
gives the
covered yarn elastic characteristics.
The peripheral part is made of natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, or is
made of
synthetic fibers, such as polyamide or polyester, for example.
However, according to the example described here, the covered yarn Fl includes
an
elastane central part and a polyamide peripheral part.
It is meant by "textured yarn" a flexible and voluminous yarn having elastic
extensibility
properties, unlike a flat yarn.
The textured yarn is for example obtained by twisting smooth fibers, usually
synthetic, to
increase the volume thereof, making it soft to touch and a bit extensible.
It is meant by "flat yam" a yarn that does not stretch out, which is here made
of polyester
or of polyamide.
The flat yarn is a mono-filament yarn, as opposed to a textured yam which is a
multi-
filaments. The flat yarn is obtained by spinning the material to a sufficient
speed, usually
comprised between 1000 meters per minute and 5000 meters per minute, and if
necessary
by means of a complementary stretching to obtain an amorphous yarn or having a
low
degree of crystallinity, usually less than 5 percent.
The extensibility of each stitch type 28, 36, 38, 40, in a transverse
direction in the sense
of the yarn, and in a vertical direction in the sense of the stitch, is
determined by the
nature of the used yarn and the made knit-fabric type.
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Indeed, the stitches skipping technique, which comprises "keeping'' a stitch
on several
rows, allows to vary the vertical extensibility of the knit-fabric.
The stitch skipping is illustrated in FIGS. 3 to 6, by the loops which extend
vertically on
a plurality of rows afterward. The more extended the stitch skipping is, the
lower the
intrinsic vertical elastic extensibility of the knit-fabric is.
As it can be seen in FIGS. 3 and 4, the first stitch type 28 and the second
stitch type 36
.. include each a "kept" stitch on eight rows, alternating one column in every
two.
The yarn of the kept stitch of the first stitch type 28 is the flat yarn F5,
which does not
stretch out, so that the first stitch type 28 has low or even null vertical
elastic
extensibility.
According to FIG. 4, the yarn of the "kept" stitch of the second stitch type
36 is the
covered yarn Fl, which is relatively elastic, so that the second stitch type
36 is too
responsive vertically.
.. For indication, according to an exemplary embodiment, the second stitch
type 36 has a
vertical extensibility of one hundred and forty percent relative to a rest
state.
As it can be seen in FIG. 5, which illustrates the third stitch type 38, the
first covered
yarn Fl, and the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured
yarn F7 are each
"kept" on two rows, one column in every four, forming stitches skippings
arranged in
staggered rows.
Similarly, according to FIG. 6 which illustrates the fourth stitch type 40,
the first covered
yarn F1, the third textured yarn F3, the flat yarn F5 and the textured yarn F7
are each kept
on two rows, one column in every two, forming stitches skippings arranged in
staggered
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rows.
Complementarily, the extensibility of each stitch type 28, 36, 38, 40, in a
transverse
direction, in the sense of the yarn, is determined by the number of stitches
per unit area
42. The greater the number of stitches is, the higher the transverse elastic
extensibility of
the stitch tends to be.
Referring to FIGS. 3 to 6, the first stitch type 28 and the second stitch type
36 include
each thirty six stitches per unit area 42, the third stitch type 38 includes
fifty six stitches
per unit area 42 and the fourth stitch type 40 includes forty eight stitches
per unit area 42.
The high number of stitches of the fourth stitch type 40 allows to make the
third central
portion 34a, 34b of each cup 12a, 12b opaque, thus hiding the chest.
The vertical elastic extensibility characteristics relating to different
stitch types 28, 36,
38, 40 are described afterward.
The first stitch type 28 has the lowest vertical extensibility, which is for
example
comprised between zero and twenty percent, and which is preferably equal to
ten percent,
or even zero percent, relative to a rest state.
The second stitch type 36 has a vertical extensibility which is superior to
that of the first
stitch type 28, and which is for example equal to one hundred and forty
percent of
stretching relative to a rest state.
The third stitch type 38 has a vertical extensibility which is superior to
that of the second
stitch type 36, and which is for example equal to one hundred seventy five
percent of
stretching relative to a rest state.
The fourth stitch type 40 has a vertical extensibility which is inferior to
that of the third
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stitch type 38, and which is for example equal to one hundred and fifty
percent of
stretching relative to a rest state.
Concerning the transverse elastic extensibility characteristics relating to
different stitch
types 28, 36, 38, 40, the first stitch type 28 and the second stitch type 36
have a
transverse extensibility lower than that of the third stitch type 38 and of
the fourth stitch
type 40, which is for example of seventy five percent of stretching relative
to a rest state.
Finally, the transverse elastic extensibility of the third stitch type 38 and
of the fourth
stitch type 40 is, for example, of one hundred and seventy five percent of
stretching
relative to a rest state.
Thus, the brassiere 10 according to the invention allows to get free from an
added
underwirc.
However, without limitation, the brassiere 10 according to the invention can
be equipped
with an added underwire to improve the chest holding.
In addition, the disposition of the different portions 30a, 30b, 32a, 32b,
34a, 34b of each
cup 12a, 12b and of the stiffener 20, as well as the mechanical
characteristics of each
stitch type 28, 36, 38, 40 allow to offer an optimal chest holding.
According to a variant, not shown, the stiffener 20 surrounds the lower
periphery of each
cup 12a, 12b, as well as a part of the upper periphery of each cup 12a, 12b,
to highlight
the volume of the cups 12a, 12b.
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