Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
UPPER AND LOWER TORSO GARMENTS HAVING AN IMPROVED BAND
[0001]
Technical Field
[0002] This disclosure relates to circularly knitted upper and lower torso
garments, such as a
brassiere or brief. More particularly, the present disclosure relates to a
circularly knitted
brassiere and a lower torso undergarment having an improved chest band and
waist band,
respectively, affixed between the overlapping plies of fabric.
Background
[0003] Upper torso garments, such as, brassieres generally and sports bras in
particular have a
torso encircling band that is knitted at or attached to the lower edge of the
brassiere to provide
stability and additional support to the wearer. Such bands also are knitted at
or attached to the
upper edge of lower torso undergarments, such as briefs, to function as a
waist band. One known
way to form a chest band or waist band is to knit a turned welt during the
process of knitting the
fabric tube. An alternative method is to stitch an elastomeric band to the
bottom edge of the
brassiere, or the top edge of the brief, around the entire periphery; this
additional step requires
additional labor and increases costs. The resulting band tends to be
relatively bulky and thick,
and, therefore more visible and less comfortable when worn.
Summary
[0004] An aspect of the present disclosure is a circularly knitted garment,
such as a brassiere or
brief, having a thin elastomeric band affixed between overlapping plies of
knitted fabric. In one
exemplary embodiment, the elastomeric band comprises a thin polyamide film
having a modulus
(kilograms of holding power) that is greater than can be achieved by
conventional elastomeric
yarns, such as spandex and Lycra . The modulus of the plies and film combined
may be
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between about 1.0 kg and 4 kg. As used herein, the term "modulus" refers to
the kilograms of
recovery force available in the material at a given percentage of stretch. The
greater the
modulus, the stiffer the material, i.e. the more resistant the material will
be to linear stretch.
Depending upon the type of elastomeric material, its width and thickness, its
modulus may vary
widely.
[0005] Another aspect of the present disclosure is a method of forming a
brassiere or lower torso
undergarment having an elastomeric band affixed between the overlapping plies
of fabric. The
method comprises circularly knitting a body that is symmetrically dimensioned
for forming a
two-ply gal ment, comprising inner and outer layers when folded about a
central fold line. The
elastomeric band is positioned proximate the fold line and the plies are
symmetrically overlapped
about the fold line, thus enclosing the elastomeric band and forming the two-
ply garment with a
torso band that is thinner and, therefore, less visible and more comfortable
when worn. In one
embodiment, the elastomeric band is affixed to one or both of the inner and
outer layers of
knitted fabric by the application of temperature and pressure for a selected
amount of time.
Brief Description of the Drawings
[0006] The present disclosure will be more apparent from the following
detailed explanation of
embodiments of the disclosure in connection with the accompanying drawings.
[0007] Figure 1 is a front perspective environmental view of an example
brassiere.
[0008] Figure 2 is a rear perspective environmental view of the example
brassiere of Figure 1,
illustrating an embodiment having a rear closure
[0009] Figure 3 is a rear perspective environmental view of the example
brassiere of Figure 1,
illustrating a sports-type bra embodiment without a rear closure.
[0010] Figure 4 is a front view of the example brassiere of Figures 1 and 2.
[0011] Figure 5 is a rear view of the example brassiere of Figures 1 and 2.
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[0012] Figure 6 is a cross-sectional view of the example brassiere of Figure
1, taken along Line
6-6.
[0013] Figure 7 is a front perspective environmental view of example boxer
briefs.
[0014] Figure 8 is a cross-sectional view of the example boxer briefs of
Figure 7, taken along
line 8-8.
Detailed Description
[0015] One aspect of the present disclosure is directed to an upper torso
garment, such as, a
brassiere, a sports bra or a camisole. Referring to Figures 1-6 in general, a
circularly-knitted
brassiere is shown generally as 100. The circularly-knitted brassiere 100,
which is formed on a
conventional circular knitting machine, may comprise a two-ply brassiere body
having
overlapping inner 112 and outer 114 layers, or plies. While a two-ply
brassiere is illustrated and
described herein, the disclosure is not limited to a two-ply garment; rather,
one-ply garments,
such as brassieres and lower torso undergarments, are within the scope of the
disclosure.
[0016] The brassiere body may be formed of any of the conventional materials
such as polyester,
nylon, etc. The body may be formed by also knitting in one or more elastomeric
yarns, such as
spandex, having some degree of elasticity for securing the garment about the
wearer's torso.
Each ply of fabric for the embodiments described herein may be between about
0.6 mm and
about 2.0 mm thick.
[0017] As shown in Figures 2, 4 and 5, the brassiere disclosed herein
comprises a pair of breast
cups 120, and a torso encircling strap 130 extending outwardly from the outer
edges of each
breast cup 120, with the two torso straps 130 fastening at the back of the
wearer with fasteners
150. In the exemplary embodiment shown in Figure 3, a single continuous torso
strap 135
extends between the outer edges of the breast cups 120 to encircle the torso
of the wearer. This
embodiment is typical of a pullover sports-type brassiere. Further, the breast
cups 120 may be
either molded after the brassiere body is formed, or may be knitted in as
loose areas on the front
of the body during the knitting process.
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[0018] As shown in Figures 1-6, an elastomeric band 170 is inserted along the
bottom of the
brassiere 100, between the inner 112 and outer 114 plies, and extends beneath
the breast cups
120, the central gore 180, and along the lower edges of the torso straps 130,
135.
[0019] Turning now to Figure 6, the elastomeric band 170 of the brassiere 100
comprises a
relatively thin elastomeric material having an improved modulus and that
maintains a relatively
consistent modulus across a useful range of elongation. Depending upon the
type and style of
the brassiere 100, the thickness of the elastomeric band 170 may range from
between about .010
mm and 0.45 mm to reduce the visibility of the elastomeric material when the
garment is worn.
The optimal thickness of the elastomeric band 170 will depend on the desired
level of control to
be provided for the brassiere 100, which is typically size dependent. As will
be appreciated, the
thinner the elastomeric band 170, the less visible the band when worn. The
degree of control and
support for the brassiere 100 type and style also depends on the width of the
elastomeric band
170. The width of the elastomeric band 170 can range from about one-quarter
(1/4) inch for a
minimally supporting bra up to seven (7) or more inches wide for a lower torso
control garment.
An optimal width for the exemplary embodiments illustrated herein is between
about three-
quarters (3/4) inch and one and one-quarter (1 1/4) inches.
[0020] In one embodiment, the elastomeric band 170 comprises a thin film of
thermoplastic
elastomer (TPE). In another embodiment, the elastomeric band 170 comprises a
woven or
nonwoven material of filaments and/or fibers of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE).
In certain
instances, the elastomeric band includes multiple plies of material, with at
least one of the plies
being TPE. The thermoplastic elastomer may comprise a polyamide blend. One
such polyamide
blend is available under the trademark Pebax from Arkema Inc. of King of
Prussia, PA. Other
thin elastomeric materials, including other films, having the physical
properties described below,
may be suitable to form the elastomeric band 170. For example, the
thermoplastic elastomer
(TPE) can include styrene-based block copolymers, and/or thermoplastic
urethane (TPU). One
such styrenic block copolymer is SBC by Kraton , as shown in Table 1 below. In
some
examples, the TPE can include styrene ethylene butadiene styrene (SEBS) block
copolymers,
styrene ethylene propylene (SEP) block copolymers, styrene isoprene styrene
(SIS), styrene
ethylene ethylene propylene styrene (SEEPS) block copolymers, styrene ethylene
propylene
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styrene (SEPS) block copolymers, combinations of the foregoing block
copolymers, and/or other
styrenic block copolymers. In certain implementations, the elastomeric band
170 includes
thermoplastic elastomeric fibers integral to the band 170.
[0021] In some implementations, the elastomeric band 170 has elastic recovery
properties
described below following test methods and procedures, for example, according
to ASTM
D4964. This test method includes constant rate of extension testing (i.e.,
stretch-strain testing).
For example, elastomeric properties of the elastomeric band 170 can include a
substantially zero
hysteresis loss, where the elastomeric band 170 has an elasticity that is
substantially maintained
between a stretched state and an unstretched state of the band 170. In other
words, a return
percentage (e.g., stretch-back) of the elastomeric band 170 after stretch is
at least about 98%, for
example, up to about 99.9%. In certain implementations, the elastic band 170
can withstand at
least 25 launderability cycles (e.g., washing and drying cycles) while
retaining a percentage
retention (e.g., 95% stretch retention). In some instances, the elastic band
170 is resistant to
ultraviolet light and nitrous oxide (NO) gas degradation (e.g., discoloration,
negative elastomeric
effects, and/or other). In certain implementations, desired elastic film
characteristics of the
elastomeric band 170 can be achieved through adjustment of certain polymer
ratios, and the
addition of process oils, thermosetting resins, tackifier resins, anti-shrink
agents, pigments,
and/or other chemistry agents.
[0022] An example testing method (the "Stretch Back Indicator Test") for
determining a stretch-
back of the elastomeric band 170 includes a length of 1-inch-wide elastomeric
band 170 held on
each longitudinal end. The band is stretched to a length 150% of the initial
unstretched length,
for example, on a Zwick testing machine. After reaching the stretched length,
the band is
immediately returned to an unstretched state (e.g., without holding at
stretched length). After
cycling the band through two exercises of three cycles, a final unstretched
length is determined
every third cycle and compared to the initial unstretched length of the band.
After the test is
performed through the two exercises of three cycles for each sample, an
indication of stretch-
back (i.e., elastic recovery) is determined (e.g., by machine output) for the
band by dividing the
initial unstretched length over the final unstretched length and multiplying
by 100 to obtain a
percentage. The closer the final result is to 100%, the better the stretch
back properties.
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[0023] By way of example and comparison, for the exemplary embodiments shown
herein, a
typical knitted-in torso band, e.g., a turned welt, would be approximately 2.0
mm thick. A cut
and sew brassiere with a sewn in elastic band of similar weight to the turned
welt would be
approximately 1.8 mm thick For example, a band having the thermoplastic
elastomeric
polyamide film described above can be approximately 1.5 mm thick.
[0024] The modulus of the elastomeric material depends on its type of
material, width and
thickness. In the exemplary embodiments described herein, an optimal modulus
may be between
about 1.0 and 4.0 kilograms. As shown in the several examples in Table 1
below, this range in
the modulus corresponds to between about 95% and 140% in defoi Illation
(stretch) when the
elastomeric band 170 is subjected to a length direction static load of 7
kilograms.
Table 1
Elastomeric Band Thickness of Modulus (kg) Modulus
(kg) Total Percent
Material Elastomeric Band (40% elongation) (60%
elongation) Deformation
(band plus plies) (band plus plies) (band
plus plies)
Pebax 0.10 mm 1.08 1.66 132%
Pebax 0.15 min 1.59 2.25 123%
SBC by Kraton0 0.30 mm 2.31 3.50 102%
[0025] By way of comparison, the body of brassiere 100 will have a modulus of
less than 1
kilogram. For example, the two overlapped plies, formed from a conventional
blend of 89%
weight nylon and 11% weight spandex has a modulus of about 0.132 kg at 40%
elongation and
about 0.35 kg at 60% elongation. As seen in Table 1 above, the elastomeric
bands provide a
reduced increase in modulus with increased elongation. This produces a
brassiere 100 that will
be comfortable over a larger range of sizes. In the torso band region at the
bottom of the
brassiere proximate the fold line 173, the two-ply body material alone would
allow for
elongation of 160% when tested under the same 7 kg load as the samples in
Table 1.
[0026] Referring again to Figure 6, the method of forming the brassiere 100 of
the present
disclosure is best illustrated. The brassiere body or blank is knitted in the
form of a tube on a
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conventional circular knitting machine. The center periphery of the tube
corresponds to the fold
line 173 about which the inner 112 and outer 114 layers will be overlapped
into the two-ply
brassiere body.
[0027] The elastomeric band 170 is positioned proximate the center fold line
173 on what will
become the inner surfaces of the two-ply brassiere body when the tube is
folded. The
elastomeric band 170 may be coated on one or both sides with a heat-sealable
adhesive 172 for
adhering the elastomeric band 170 in position once the brassiere construction
is complete. One
suitable heat-sealable adhesive 172 is RX 2641, available from Bixby
International Corp. of
Newburyport, MA. The disclosure, however, is not limited to using a heat-
sealable adhesive to
adhere the band 170; rather, the use of other suitable materials and methods
for securing the band
to the garment are within the scope of the disclosure.
[0028] The inner 112 and outer 114 layers of the brassiere body are next
symmetrically
overlapped about the fold line 173, enclosing the elastomeric band 170 and
forming the two-ply
brassiere body as described above. Where a heat-sealable adhesive 172 is
applied to one or both
sides of the elastomeric band 170, the elastomeric band 170 is affixed between
the two plies with
an air-operated press having upper and lower heating elements. An application
temperature may
be between about 150 degrees Fahrenheit and 380 degrees Fahrenheit, preferable
about 320
degrees Fahrenheit. The application pressure should be no less than about 10
psi and no more
than about 120 psi, preferably between about 30 and about 60 psi. The
preferred pressure should
be applied for no less than about 5 seconds and no more than about 90 seconds,
preferably
between about 20 and about 30 seconds. In certain implementations, the
elastomeric band 170
can be applied to fabric layers without the heat-sealable adhesive 172 For
example, the
elastomeric band 170 can have melt properties allowing the elastomeric band
170 to fuse (e.g.,
heat-set, melt, and/or otherwise affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat
of between about 300
degrees Fahrenheit and about 360 degrees Fahrenheit. Alternatively, the
elastomeric band 170
can have melt properties allowing the elastomeric band 170 to fuse (e.g., heat-
set, melt, and/or
otherwise affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat of between about 300
degrees Fahrenheit
and about 340 degrees Fahrenheit. As yet another alternative, the elastomeric
band 170 can have
melt properties allowing the elastomeric band 170 to fuse (e.g., heat-set,
melt, and/or otherwise
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affix) to a fabric layer with an applied heat of between about 320 degrees
Fahrenheit and about
340 degrees Fahrenheit. (e.g., at about 300, 305, 310, 315, 320, 325, 330, 335
or 340 degrees
Fahrenheit).
[0029] Once the elastomeric band 170 is adhered between the inner 112 and
outer 114 layers, the
brassiere body may be cut to the desired shape. Subsequently, trim 190 is
applied along the free
edges, shoulder straps 160 attached, and fasteners 150 are affixed to complete
the brassiere 100
construction. Where shoulder strap portions 160 are formed and cut with the
brassiere body,
they need only to be seamed together proximate the top of the shoulder.
Similarly, where the
torso strap 135 is continuous, no fasteners 150 are necessary.
[0030] Another aspect of the present disclosure is directed to a circularly-
knitted lower torso
undergarment, such as a boxer, a brief, a boxer brief, panties, pantyhose or
shapewear. Referring
to Figures 7 and 8, a boxer brief is shown generally as 200. The circularly-
knitted brief 200,
which is formed on a conventional circular knitting machine, comprises a body
formed of any of
the conventional materials such as polyester, nylon, etc. The body may be
formed by also
knitting in one or more elastomeric yarns, such as spandex, having some degree
of elasticity for
securing the garment about the wearer's lower torso.
[0031] The briefs 200 of the present disclosure comprises a pair of leg
openings 210, a crotch
portion 230 and a waist opening 220 surrounded by a waist band 250 of the
present disclosure.
The embodiment illustrated includes leg portions 240 as is typical of boxer
style briefs.
Conventional briefs, i.e. without leg portions 240, for males or females
having the waist band
250 are also within the scope of the disclosure.
[0032] As best seen in Figure 8, an elastomeric band 270, as described above,
is inserted along
the waist opening 220 of the brief 200, between inner 212 and outer 214 plies.
Both the inner
and outer plies 212, 214 are formed as parts of a single tube created by a
circular knitting
machine. The top portion of the tube is then folded downward along a top fold
line 273 to form
the waist band 250 having two plies, the elastomeric band 270 disposed
adjacent to the fold line
273 and covered by the two plies. The elastomeric band 270, inner ply 212 and
outer ply 214
may be held in place by adhesive 272, set using heat and pressure similar to
the method
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discussed above. Alternate methods of adhering the elastomeric band to the
body of the brief
200 are within the scope of the present disclosure.
[0033] In a first aspect, an upper torso garment comprises a body formed of
inner and outer
layers, the body comprising at least one torso band extending from a bottom
portion of the body,
the inner and outer layers overlapping along a lower fold line, and an
elastomeric band
positioned between the inner and outer layers proximate the lower fold line.
[0034] In a second aspect, according to the first aspect, the elastomeric band
comprises a
thermoplastic elastomer film.
[0035] In a third aspect, according to the second aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film
comprises polyamide.
[0036] In a fourth aspect, according to the second or third aspect, the
thermoplastic elastomer
film comprises a styrenic block copolymer.
[0037] In a fifth aspect, according to the fourth aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film
comprises a styrene ethylene butadiene styrene (SEBS) block copolymer.
[0038] In a sixth aspect, according to the fourth aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film
comprises a styrene ethylene propylene styrene (SEPS) block copolymer.
[0039] In a seventh aspect, according to any one of the second aspect through
the sixth aspect,
the thermoplastic elastomer film has a modulus that is greater than the
modulus of the body.
[0040] In an eighth aspect, according to any one of the second aspect through
the seventh aspect
the modulus of the thermoplastic elastomer film is between about 1.0 and about
4.0 kilograms
when measured with a static load of 7 kilograms up to 60% elongation.
[0041] In a ninth aspect, according to any one of the second aspect through
the eighth aspect, the
theiinoplastic elastomer film has a thickness between about 0.1 mm and about
0.3 mm.
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[0042] In a 10th aspect, according to any one of the second aspect through the
ninth aspect, the
thermoplastic elastomer film has a width of between about 0.75 inches and
about 1.25 inches.
[0043] In an 11th aspect, according to any one of the first aspect through the
101h aspect, the
elastomeric band is coated on at least one side for adhesively affixing the
elastomeric band to at
least one inner surface of the inner and outer layers of the body.
[0044] In a 12th aspect, according to any one of the first aspect through the
11th aspect, the
elastomeric band is configured to fuse to at least one of the inner layer or
outer layer of the body
at an applied heat of between 300 degrees Fahrenheit and 360 degrees
Fahrenheit.
[0045] In a 13111 aspect, according to any one of the first aspect through the
12t11 aspect, the
elastomeric band is resistant to at least one of ultraviolet light degradation
or nitrous oxide gas
degradation.
[0046] In a 14th aspect, according to any one of the first aspect through the
13th aspect, a stretch
back indicator of the elastomeric band is greater than 98% after using the
stretch back indicator
test.
[0047] In a 15th aspect, according to any one of the first aspect through the
14th aspect, the body
comprises a circularly knit body having a front breast covering portion, and
wherein the galment
is a brassiere, a sports bra or a camisole.
[0048] In a 16th aspect, a method of forming a garment comprises knitting a
body dimensioned
for forming a Raiment, the garment comprising inner and outer layers when
folded about a
central fold line, positioning an elastomeric band proximate the fold line,
and overlapping the
inner and outer layers of the body about the fold line, enclosing the
elastomeric band and
forming a torso band of the body.
[0049] In a 17th aspect, according to the 16t1i aspect, the elastomeric band
comprises a
thermoplastic elastomer film.
[0050] In an I 8" aspect, according to the 17th aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises
a polyamide film.
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[0051] In a 19th aspect, according to the 17t11 aspect or the 18th aspect, the
thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises a styrenic block copolymer.
[0052] In a 20th aspect, according to the 19t11 aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises a
styrene ethylene butadiene styrene (SEBS) block copolymer.
[0053] In a 21 aspect, according to the 19th aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises a
styrene ethylene propylene styrene (SEPS) block copolymer.
[0054] In a 22nd aspect, according to any one of the 16th aspect through the
21st aspect,
comprising coating on at least one side of the elastomeric band an adhesive
for affixing the
elastomeric band to at least one inner surface of the inner and outer layers
of the body.
[0055] In a 23'd aspect, according to any one of the 161h aspect through the
22"d aspect, further
comprising affixing the elastomeric band to one of the inner and outer layers
by the application
of temperature and pressure for a selected amount of time.
[0056] In a 24th aspect, according to the 23rd aspect, the application
temperature is between about
150 degrees F and 380 degrees F, the application pressure is between about 10
pounds per square
inch and 120 pounds per square inch, and the amount of time is between about 5
seconds and 90
seconds.
[0057] In a 25th aspect, according to the 23rd aspect or the 24111 aspect,
affixing the elastomeric
band to one of the inner and outer layers comprises fusing the elastomeric
band to at least one of
the inner layer or outer layer at an applied heat of between 300 degrees
Fahrenheit and 360
degrees Fahrenheit.
[0058] In a 26th aspect, according to any one of the 23rd aspect through the
25th aspect, the
application temperature is about 320 degrees F, the application pressure is
between about 30 and
about 60 pounds per square inch, and the amount of time is between about 20
and about 30
seconds
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[0059] In a 27th aspect, according to any one of the 16th aspect to the 26th
aspect, a stretch back
indicator of the elastomeric band is greater than 98% after using the stretch
back indicator test.
[0060] In a 28' aspect, according to any one of the 16th aspect through the
27' aspect, the
garment is an upper torso garment.
[0061] In a 29th aspect, a lower torso garment comprises a body comprising a
pair of leg
openings, a crotch portion between the leg openings and a waist opening, a
waist band formed at
the waist opening by folding a portion of the body to provide an inner layer
and an outer layer
overlapping along an upper fold line, and an elastomeric band positioned
between the inner and
outer layers proximate the upper fold line.
[0062] In a 30th aspect, according to the 29th aspect, the elastomeric band
comprises a
thermoplastic elastomer film.
[0063] In a 31 aspect, according to the 30th aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises
polyamide.
[0064] In a 32' aspect, according to the 30th aspect or the claim 31' aspect,
the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises a styrenic block copolymer.
[0065] In a 33'1 aspect, according to the 32" aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises
a styrene ethylene butadiene styrene (SEBS) block copolymer.
[0066] In a 34th aspect, according to the 32' aspect, the thermoplastic
elastomer film comprises
a styrene ethylene propylene styrene (SEPS) block copolymer.
[0067] In a 35th aspect, according to any one of the 30th aspect through the
34th aspect, the
thermoplastic elastomer film has a modulus that is greater than the modulus of
the body.
[0068] In a 36th aspect, according to any one of the 29th aspect through the
35th aspect, a stretch
back indicator of the elastomeric band is greater than 98% after using the
stretch back indicator
test.
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[0069] In a 37th aspect, according to any one of the 29th aspect through the
36th aspect, the
elastomeric band is coated on at least one side for adhesively affixing the
elastomeric band to at
least one inner surface of the inner and outer layers of the body.
[0070] In a 38th aspect, according to any one of the 29th aspect through the
37th aspect, the
garment is a boxer, a brief, a boxer brief, panties, pantyhose or shapewear.
[0071] It should be understood that the foregoing descriptions and examples
are only illustrative
of the disclosure. Various alternatives and modifications thereof can be
devised by those skilled
in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present
disclosure. Accordingly, the
present disclosure is intended to embrace all such alternatives,
modifications, and variations.
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