Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
WO 2022/189583
PCT/EP2022/056239
Woven fabric, garment and method for manufacturing the woven fabric
The invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular to a denim fabric, a
garment comprising
such fabric and a method for manufacturing such fabric or garment. The woven
fabric has a
frontside and a backside. In particular, the woven fabric has a denim-like
appearance on the
frontside and a knit-like appearance on the backside.
Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics generally have different properties. Woven
fabrics such as
denim, gabardine, poplin or linen, are more stable than knitted fabrics but
also more rigid so
that they do not drape well and feel uncomfortable on a wearers skin. Denim is
a very popular
woven fabric. Usually, denim fabrics have a 3/1 weave in that the warp yarns
have over portions
extending along three weft yarns on the frontside and under portions extending
along only one
weft yarn on the backside. Thereby, in particular, the frontside becomes
visually dominated by
the warp yarns whereas the backside of the fabric commonly shows mainly weft
yarns. In
particular, such denim fabrics are warp-faced fabrics. In particular, warp-
faced fabrics are
fabrics in which the frontside of the fabric is visibly dominated by warp
yarns. Other warp-
faced fabrics include twill, cavalry twill, chino, covert, drill, fancy twill,
gabardine, and lining
twill. Another characteristic of a denim fabric is in particular the presence
of a diagonal pattern
on the frontside. Such diagonal pattern is in particular realized by an
diagonal offset of the
warp yarn over portions on the frontside of the fabric. In particular, another
characteristic of
denim fabrics is the use of indigo dyed warp yarns and in particular undyed
weft yarns. In
particular in combination with the warp-faced structure, this allows providing
the typical
indigo blue look of a denim fabric's frontside while the backside remains
substantially white.
In the case of ring dyed yarns used for the denim fabric, the indigo dye is
most concentrated at
the surface of the yarns whereas the yarns' cores remain undyed which allows
for very
characteristic coloring options. Different finishing techniques can be applied
to denim to
enhance the coloring properties. For example, denim can be hand scraped,
sandblasted, stone
washed, or treated in other ways that allow varying amounts of the undyed
cores of the indigo
yarns to become visible. In the following, one or more of the above
characteristics of denim
fabrics will be referred to as denim-like appearance.
Although denim is very popular, it has, due to its woven nature, rarely been
used for articles of
clothing that are expected to drape well over the wearer's body and/or to feel
soft on a wearers
skin, particularly for tops, such as shirts, blouses and sweat-shirts. For
articles of clothing
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 2 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
providing such characteristics, knitted fabrics are used most often, because
knitted fabrics are
generally more flexible and able to stretch in every direction so that they
drape well over the
wearer's body and/or provide a soft feeling on the wearers' skin. In the
following, one or more
of these characteristics will be referred to as knit-like appearance.
Drawbacks of knit-like fabrics are in particular their lower stability, high
manufacturing costs
and limited suitability to provide a denim-like appearance. In particular, it
is very expensive to
create knitted fabric of indigo color. In particular, the yarns used to create
a knitted fabric must
first be wound on a bobbin for dying, so that a time consuming and thus
expensive additional
manufacturing step is necessary. Contrary thereto, in weaving processes, the
yarns are in
anyway wound on a bobbin prior to weaving so that no additional step is
required.
Furthermore, when manufacturing a knitted fabric, both sides thereof will be
dyed, including
the fabric's back side which is in contact with the wearer's skin and may thus
leave stains.
In the past, attempts have been made to combine advantageous of knit fabrics
and woven
fabrics. For instance, in order to create a fabric that can be manufactured
easily by weaving but
which provides a look and feeling similar to a knitted fabric, EP 2 539 493 Bi
suggests to weave
warp yarns with two different types of weft yarns, namely elastomeric and hard
weft yarns. By
means of a larger shrinkage ratio of the elastomeric weft yarns, the hard weft
yarns form
droopy loops which shall provide a knit-like feeling and look on the backside
of the fabric.
However, the inventors identified a need to further increase the knit-like
appearance on the
backside. Additionally, the inventors found that the woven fabric according to
EP 2 539 493 Bi
does not look like a denim on the frontside, in particular because the over
portions on the
frontside of the fabric create not only one diagonal pattern, which is typical
for denim, but also
a second diagonal pattern created by the over portions of the hard weft yarn,
which is offset
with respect to the first diagonal pattern.
The applicant of the present invention identified some of these drawbacks of
EP 2 539 493 Bi
in the past and provided a solution in EP 3 231 907 Al. Therein, instead of
using two weft yarn
systems, two warp yarn systems comprising frontside warp yarns and backside
warp yarns are
used for providing droopy loops on the backside of the fabric. Thanks to the
use of two warp
yarn systems, the loop providing warp yarns can be offset from the frontside
of the fabric
towards the backside of the fabric so that their over portions do not impair
the denim-like
appearance on the frontside of the fabric. However, the inventors of the
present invention
identified a need to further increase the knit-like appearance on the backside
in particular
without impairing the denim-like appearance on the frontside.
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 3 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
Therefore, it is on object of the invention to overcome drawbacks of the prior
art, in particular
to provide a woven fabric, a garment comprising such fabric and a method for
manufacturing
such fabric with increased knit-like appearance on the backside and in
particular with a denim
like appearance on the frontside.
The object is solved by the independent claims.
The invention relates to a woven fabric, in particular a denim fabric. The
woven fabric
comprises a base weave comprising base warp yarns and base weft yarns. The
base warp yarns
and weft yarns are in particular woven into a base weave being a warp faced
fabric and/or a
denim fabric as described below. The warp faced fabric is in particular
realized by a base weave
in which the base warp yarns comprise under portions extending on the back of
at least one, in
particular exactly one, of the base weft yarns and over portions being
confined by two such over
portions and extending in between the confining over portions on the front of
at least two,
three or four, in particular of exactly three, base weft yarns. Additionally
or alternatively, the
base weave has a diagonal pattern on the frontside. Such diagonal pattern is
in particular
realized by an diagonal offset of the warp yarn over portions on the frontside
of the fabric.
Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns comprise under portions,
wherein the under
portions of adjacent base warp yarns form a diagonal pattern which in
particular enhances the
denim like look of the base weave. In particular the denim fabric is a warp
faced fabric having
a diagonal pattern.
The woven fabric further comprises a loop weave comprising anchor yarns and
loop yarns
extending orthogonal to the anchor yarns. In other words, if the anchor yarns
are warp yarns,
the loop yarns are weft yarns and vice versa. In particular, the anchor yarns
connect the loop
weave with the base weave, in particular by over portions extending on the
front of at least one,
in particular exactly one, base weft yarn or base weft yarn and being confined
by two under
portions of the anchor yarns extending on the back of at least one base warp
yarn or base weft
yarn.
The woven fabric further comprises a frontside and a backside, wherein each of
the base warp
yarns, base weft yarns, anchor yarns and loop yarns has a front facing the
frontside and a back
facing the backside. In particular, it shall be clear that the terms front and
back of a yarn does
not necessarily require the yarn to be present on the frontside or,
respectively, the backside of
the woven fabric. Rather, in particular, the front and the back are defined as
the sides facing
the frontside and, respectively the backside. In particular, the frontside can
be defined as a
fictitious straight plane lying flat on one side of the fabric while the
backside can be defined as
a fictitious straight plane lying flat on the opposite side of the fabric.
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 4 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
Each anchor yarn comprises at least one under portion extending on the back of
at least one of
the base warp yarns or weft yarns and two over portions confining the at least
one anchor yarn
under portion and connecting it with the base weave by extending on the front
of at least one,
in particular exactly one, of the base warp yarns or weft yarns.
In particular, confining over portions within the meaning of the present
invention, regardless
of whether warp yarns or weft yarns are concerned, are over portions between
which the under
portion extend, in other word which limit the extension of the under portion
in the direction
in which the respective yarn extends. In particular, this applies mutatis
mutandis to previously
and subsequently described confining under portions.
Each loop yarn comprises at least one under portion extending on the back of
at least one of
the anchor yarns and two over portions confining the at least one loop yarn
under portion and
extending on the front of at least one of the anchor yarns. In particular, the
confining loop yarn
over portions connect the loop yarns with respective anchor yarns, in
particular in that each of
the confining over portions extend on the front of at least one, in particular
exactly one, anchor
yarn being confined by two loop yarn under portions.
In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, a yarn extending
on the front of
another yarn is to be understood in that it extends between the frontside of
the woven fabric
and that other yarn. In particular, within the meaning of the present
invention, a yarn
extending on the back of another yarn is to be understood in that it extends
between the
backside of the woven fabric and that other yarn. In particular, a yarn
portion, such as an over
portion or under portion, extending on minimum or specific number of yarns on
the front or
the back of a yarn has to be understood in that the yarn floats in its
direction of extension, for
instance for warp yarns the warp direction, along this number of yarns in
between its confining
portions, for instance if an under portion is concerned between its two
confining over portions.
According to one aspect of the invention the at least one anchor yarn under
portion and loop
yarn under portion extend in between their confining over portions on the back
of at least five
yarns. This aspect of the invention will be described in more detail with
respect to
embodiments in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and in which the loop
yarns are weft
yarns. However, instead, the anchor yarns can also be weft yarns and the loop
yarns can be
warp yarns. All subsequently described embodiments of the invention, according
to which the
anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns, shall be
considered to be
mirrored with this alternative configuration.
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 5 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion extends in between
their confining
over portions on the back of at least five weft yarns. In particular, these at
least five weft yarns
can be base weft yarns and/or loop yarns as long as the sum of the base weft
yarns and the loop
yarns on the back of which the at least one anchor yarn under portion extends
is at least five.
Additionally or alternatively, the at least one loop yarn under portion
extends in between their
confining over portions on the back of at least five warp yarns. In
particular, these at least five
warp yarns can be base warp yarns and/or anchor yarns as long as the sum of
the base warp
yarns and the anchor yarns on the back of which the at least one anchor yarn
under portion
extends is at least five.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion and the at least one
loop yarn under
portion can be classified as long under portion. The inventors found that the
use of long under
portions in the anchor yarns and in the loop yarns and therefore in warp
direction and in weft
direction increases the knit-like appearance on the backside compared to the
use of long under
portions only in weft direction or warp direction. Surprisingly, it has been
found that the knit-
like appearance is thereby increased beyond a knit-like appearance which would
be achieved
by Lhe same number of long under portions only in warp or vvell direction. In
addition Lo the
advantageous described below with respect to the inventive concept of droopy
under portions
in warp and weft direction, one reason for this increased knit-like appearance
is that the long
under portions extending in warp and weft direction particularly provide a
visual barrier hiding
large sections of the base weave from being seen and felt at the backside.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion extends in between
its confining over
portions on the back of at least six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven or
twelve yarns. In the case
of the anchor yarns being warp yarns, these number of yarns can be the sum of
base weft yarns
and/or loop yarns. In particular, it is within the scope of this invention
that the anchor yarn
under portion also extends on the front of loop yarns. However, such loop
yarns do not count
for the defined minimum number of yarns to be bypassed by the anchor yarn
under portion.
However, in particular, in the case of the anchor yarns being warp yarns, it
shall be clear that
the anchor yarn under portion does not extend on the front of base weft yarns
in between its
confining over portions. The above applies mutatis mutandis to configurations
in which the
anchor yarns are weft yarns.
In particular, the at least one loop yarn under portion extends in between its
confining over
portions on the back of at least five, seven, nine, eleven, thirteen, fifteen,
seventeen, eighteen,
twenty, twenty-two, twenty-four or twenty-six yarns. In the case of the loop
yarns being weft
yarns, these number of yarns can be the sum of base warp yarns and/or anchor
yarns. In
particular, it shall be clear that the loop yarn under portion does not extend
on the front of
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 6 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
anchor yarns in between its confining over portions. The above applies mutatis
mutandis to
configurations in which the loop yarns are warp yarns.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion extends in between
its confining over
portions on the back of at least four, five, six, seven or eight base warp
yarns, in configurations
in which the anchor yarns are weft yarns, or base weft yarns, in
configurations in which the
anchor yarns are warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the at least one
anchor yarn under
portion extends in between its confining over portions on the back of at least
one, two, three
or four loop yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the at least one anchor
yarn under portion
extends in between its confining over portions on the front of at least five,
six, seven or eight
loop yarns.
In particular, the at least one loop yarn under portion extends in between its
confining over
portions on the back of at least three, four, five, six, seven, eight or nine
base warp yarns, in
configurations in which the loop yarns are weft yarns, or base weft yarns, in
configurations in
which the loop yarns are warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the at
least one loop yarn
under porlion exlends in beLween iLs confining over porLions on the back of
al. least. Lwo, three,
four, five, six, seven or eight anchor yarns.
According to another aspect of the invention, which can be combined with the
previously
described aspect of the invention and all of its embodiments, the at least one
anchor yarn under
portion and loop yarn under portion are droopy in that they have a length
surplus compared
to the distance between their confining over portions. In particular, the at
least one anchor
yarn under portion and/or the loop yarn under portion extend between their
confining over
portions curved and spaced from the yarns on the backside of which they
extend.
In particular, the presence of droopy under portions in the anchor yarns and
the loop yarns
and in particular therefore in warp direction and in weft direction increases
the knit-like
appearance on the backside compared to the use of droopy under portions only
in weft
direction or warp direction. In particular, the inventive solution increases
the knit-like
appearance of the backside to such an extent that a person wearing a garment
made of the
inventive fabric or looking on the backside of such garment, i.e. the side
facing the skin, would
classify the fabric to be a knit fabric. Surprisingly, it has been found that
the knit-like
appearance is thereby increased beyond a knit-like appearance which would be
achieved by the
same number of droopy under portions only in warp or weft direction. One
reason for this is
that with the inventive solution, the same number of droopy under portions can
be provided
by a reduced number of backside warp yarns compared to the solution known from
EP 3 231
907 Al and with a reduced number of backside weft yarns compared to the
solution known
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 7 - PC
T/EP2022/056239
from EP 2 539 493 Bi. Thereby, the warp density and the weft density of the
fabric can be
chosen more similar which leads to a more uniform fabric coming closer to a
knit appearance.
Additionally, the inventors of the present invention surprisingly found that
distributing the
required number of yarns providing droopy under portions for the desired knit-
like
appearance in warp and weft direction reduces the impairment of the denim-like
look on the
frontside by these droopy loop providing yarns compared to providing such
number of yarns
only in warp direction or weft direction. Another reason is that droopy under
portions
extending in warp direction and weft direction provide the appearance of a
loosely woven fabric
being independent from base warp yarns and/or base weft yarns. Additionally,
the extension
of droopy under portions in warp and weft direction provides a visual barrier
better hiding the
frontside warp yarns and/or frontside weft yarns from being seen and felt from
the backside of
the fabric.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion and/or the loop yarn
under portion
extend in between their confining over portions on the back of at least three,
four, five, six,
seven or eight yarns, in particular as described with respect to the
previously described aspect
of Lhe invention. IL has been found LhaL realising Lhe droopy under porLions
of Lhis aspecL of
the invention as long under as described with respect to the previous aspect
of the invention
leads to a significant increase of the knit-like appearance on the backside of
the woven fabric.
In particular, the length surplus of the at least one anchor yarn under
portion is at least 10 %,
20%, 30%, 50% or 70%. Additionally or alternatively, the length surplus of the
at least one loop
yarn under portion is at least io %, 20%, 3-0/
o /0, 50% or 70%.
The length surplus of an under portion compared to the distance between its
confining over
portions can be calculated by the following equation:
L U
LS = (- - 1) * 100%
D 0
Therein, LS is an abbreviation for the length surplus, LU is an abbreviation
for the length of an
under portion between its two confining over portions, and DO is an
abbreviation for the
distance between the two over portions confining the under portion.
In particular, the base warp yarns comprise under portions extending on the
back of at least
one of the base weft yarn and over portions confining the base warp yarn under
portions and
extending on the front of at least one of the base weft yarns. In particular,
the base weft yarns
comprise under portions extending on the back of at least one of the base warp
yarn and over
portions confining the base weft yarn under portions and extending on the
front of at least one
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 8 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
of the base warp yarns. In particular, the base warp yarn under portions
and/or the base weft
yarn under portions do not have a length surplus or at least a smaller length
surplus compared
to the distance between their confining over portions than the length surplus
of the at least one
anchor yarn under portion and/or of the at least one loop yarn under portion.
In particular in
cases where the base warp yarn under portions and/or base weft yarn under
portion have a
length surplus compared to the distance between its confining over portions,
the length surplus
is smaller than 70%, 6o%, 50%, 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5 %, 3%, 2% or 1%. In
particular by
weaving and/or choosing the material of the base warp yarns and/or base weft
yarns in that
their under portions have no length surplus or a smaller length surplus than
the anchor yarn
under portion and/or the loop yarn under portion, the knit-like appearance of
the fabric can
be increased on the backside of the fabric by the droopy under portions of the
loop weave while
the denim-like look can be maintained or enhanced by in particular relatively
straight
extension of the base warp yarns and weft yarns. In particular, under portions
having no length
surplus extend straight between their confining over portions, in particular
not curved and/or
without a space to the yarns on the back of which the under portions extend.
According to yet another aspect of the invention, which can be combined with
the previously
described aspect of long loops and/or of droopy loops in the anchor yarns and
in the loop yarns,
the loop yarns do not comprise over portions extending on the front of the
base warp yarns
and/or of the base weft yarns. This aspect of the invention will be described
in more detail with
respect to a configuration in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns and in
which the loop yarns
are weft yarns. In such configuration, the loop yarns do not comprise over
portions extending
on the front of the base warp yarns. However, according to an alternative
configuration, the
anchor yarns can also be weft yarns and the loop yarns can be warp yarns. With
this
configuration, the loop yarns do not comprise over portions extending on the
front of the base
weft yarns. All subsequently described embodiments of the invention, according
to which the
anchor yarns are warp yarns and the loop yarns are weft yarns, shall be
considered to be
mirrored with this alternative configuration.
In particular, the loop weave is only connected with the base weave by over
portions of the
anchor yarns extending over at least one, in particular exactly one, base weft
yarn. In particular,
the loop yarn is exclusively interwoven with the anchor yarns. Thereby, the
loop yarns can
exclusively extend on the backside of the fabric. Such loop yarns can in
particular be called
hidden yarn. In particular, the loop yarns exclusively form over portions with
respect to the
anchor yarns but not with respect to the base warp yarns. In particular
thereby, the loop yarn
do not impair the appearance of the frontside of the fabric. In particular
therefore, with this
aspect of the invention, the knit-like appearance on the backside can be
increased without
impairing the denim-like appearance by the loop yarns. Additionally in
combination with the
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 9 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
aspect of droopy anchor yarn under portions and droopy loop yarn under
portion, the loop
yarns are exclusively connected with yarns being itself droopy, namely the
anchor yarns,
thereby providing droopy loop yarn under portions which can easily move in
warp direction
thereby further increasing the knit-like appearance.
In particular, the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are offset, in
particular along their entire
extension, from the front side towards the backside. In particular, the
frontside can be defined
as a fictitious straight plane lying flat on one side of the fabric.
Accordingly, the offset of the
anchor yarns and/or of the loop yarns can be understood in that they extend,
in particular
along their entire extension, spaced from this fictitious straight plane. In
other words, in
particular, the anchor yarns and/or of the loop yarns extend, in particular
along their entire
extension, spaced from this fictitious straight plane. In particular the
offset or the space is at
least 5%, 10%, 20%, 30% or 50% of the diagonal extension of at least one, in
particular all, of
the base warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20 %, 30%, 40%,
50%, 60%, 70%,
80%, yo% or mo % of the base warp yarns and/or of the base weft yarns can be
in lateral
contact with each other. In particular thereby, the base warp yarns and/or of
the base weft
yarns can form a closely woven base warp yarn and/or base weft yarn
arrangement hiding the
anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns from being seen and/or felt on the
frontside of the woven
fabric. Additionally or alternatively, at least 20 %, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%,
80%, 90% or
100 % of the anchor yarns can located substantially above, in a configuration
where the anchor
yarns are warp yarns, at least one or two base warp yarn/s. Additionally or
alternatively, at
least 20 %, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, 800,/0 y, -
o% or mo % of the loop yarns can be located
substantially above, in a configuration where the loop yarns are weft yarns,
at least one or two
base weft yarn/s. In this regard, substantially can in particular be
understood in that a yarn
being located substantially above another yarn overlaps the other yarn in the
orthogonal
direction of its extension, for instance if a warp yarn is concerned in the
weft direction, with at
least 30%, 40%, 50%, 6o%, 70%, 8o%, 90%, 95% or l00% of its radial extension.
In case of an
l00% overlap, the respective yarn can in particular be considered to extend
directly above at
least one other yarn having a larger diameter than the yarn or two other yarns
each of which
having at least a diameter of 50% of the yarn. By one or more of the above
embodiments, the
anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns can be hidden by the base weft yarns and/or
warp yarns
from being seen and/or felt at the frontside of the fabric. In particular
thereby, the anchor
yarns and/or the loop yarns can provide the backside of the fabric with a knit-
like appearance
without impairing the look, in particular the denim like look, provided by the
base weave on
the frontside of the fabric.
Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns have axial centrelines and
define a base
warp/weft plane extending through the axial centrelines along over portions of
the base warp
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 10 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
yarns extending on the front of the base weft yarns, wherein the anchor yarns
and/or the loop
yarns have axial centrelines and wherein the anchor yarns and/or the loop
yarns axial
centrelines particularly along their entire extension extend on the back of
the base warp/weft
plane.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion extends in between
the base warp
yarns or weft yarns and the loop yarns along at least two, in particular three
four, five, six,
seven or eight, loop yarns and/or along at least two, in particular three,
four, five, six, seven or
eight, base warp yarns, in a configuration in which the anchor yarns are weft
yarn, or base weft
yarns, in a configuration in which the anchor yarns are warp yarns.
An anchor yarn under portion extending in between the base weft yarns, in a
configuration in
which the anchor yarns are warp yarns, and the loop yarns along such minimum
number of
base weft yarns and loop yarns can in particular be called concealed under
portion. The
inventors found that such concealed under portions are of particular advantage
because they
allow on the one hand the concealed under portions to be in particular
substantially not
interrupted in particular in their long or droopy extension in this section
and on the other hand
shield the concealed under portion in this section from being seen and/or felt
at the frontside
of the woven fabric.
In particular, the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns are elastic
yarns. Additionally or
alternatively, the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are elastic yarns. In
particular, elastic
yarns can be described as being capable of being elastically stretched, for
example for around
ro% to around 25% of their original length. The initial or original length of
the yarn can be
measured while essentially no tensile tension is applied. In particular, an
elastic yarn, may
consist of or comprise T400, spandex or elastane, as for instance Lycra made
by Invista.
Preferably, an elastic yarn is a composite yarn comprising at least one
inelastic filament
and at least one elastic filament consisting of T400, spandex or elastane, as
for instance Lycra
made by Invista.
In particular, an elastic yarn comprises an elastic core and a sheath, in
particular a cotton or
polyester sheath. In particular, the elastic core can comprise at least one,
two or three elastic
filament. In particular, such elastic filament is capable of stretching at
least about two times of
its initial length, i.e. package length. After having stressed the elastic
filament by stretching at
least about two times of its initial length, an elastic recovery of at least
90 % up to roo % arises.
The elastic recovery is a parameter for the elastic performance of said
filament. The elastic
recovery in percent represents a ratio of the length of the elastic filament
following the release
of tension stress with respect to the length of the elastic filament prior to
be subjected to said
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 11 - PC
T/EP2022/056239
tension stress (package length). In particular, an elastic recovery having a
high percentage, i.e.
between 90 % and loo %, is to be considered as providing an elastic capability
of returning
substantially to the initial length after the stress was applied. In
particular, contrary to an
elastic filament, an inelastic filament, is defined by a low percentage
elastic recovery, i.e. an
inelastic filament will not be able to return substantially to its initial
length, if a stretching of
at least two times of its initial length is realized. Said percent elastic
recovery of filaments can
be tested and measured according to the standard ASTMD31o7, the entire content
of which is
expressively incorporated hereinto by reference. Said test method ASTMD3107 is
a testing
method for a fabric made from yarns. Of course, it is possible to deviate from
the test results of
the fabric the elastic recovery for the yarn itself. However, a yarn testing
method and testing
device can be used for individual measuring filaments and/or yarns. For
instance, USTER
TENSOR RAPID-3 device (Uster, Switzerland) is able to measure elasticity,
breaking force, etc.
of yarns or filaments. An example of said testing device is described in WO
2012/062480 A2
which shall be incorporated hereinto by reference.
In particular, typical examples for an elastic filament are a polyurethanic
fiber such as elastane,
spandex and those filaments that have similar elastic properties. In
particular, an elastic
filament according to the invention particularly may be stretched at least 300
% or 400 % of
the package length (e.g. as elongation at break). Package length shall be
understood as the
initial or original length of the elastic filament while essentially no
tensile tension is applied.
In particular, examples of elastic filaments which can be used include but are
not limited to,
Dowxla, Dorlastan (Bayer, Germany), Lycra (Invista, USA), Clerrspan (Globe
Mfg. Co., USA),
Glospan (Globe Mfg. Co., USA), Spandaven (Comelast C.A., Venezuela), Rocia
(Asahi Chemical
Ind., Japan), Fujibo Spandex (Fuji Spinning, Japan), Kanebo LooBell 15 (Kanebo
Ltd., Japan),
Spantel (KurarayõTapan), Mobilon (Nisshinbo Industries), Opelon (Toray-DuPont
Co. Ltd.),
Espa (Toyoba Co.), Acelan (Teakwang Industries), Texlon (Tongkook Synthetic),
Toplon
(Hyosung), Yantai (Yantei Spandex), Linel, Linetex (Fillatice SpA). In
general, these elastic
filaments provide as a basis of the yarn sufficient elastic properties. It is
noted that also elastic
filaments made of polyolefin could be used. Besides, a preferred elastic
performance filament,
according to its (own) manufacturing process, may be formed of multiple
elastic
monofilaments which are coalesced by one another so as to form a single or
mono elastic
performance filament. The single elastic filament, after its manufacturing
step, is to be used as
an interstage product, i.e. its own manufacturing process was finalized,
however, each single
elastic filament particularly provided on a mandrel or the like, is ready to
be used particularly
for realizing an the elastic yarn, in particular the elastic base warp yarns
and/or base weft
yarns.
In particular, the base warp yarns, the base weft yarns, the anchor yarns
and/or the loop yarns
can comprise a filamentary core as described in WO 2016/135211 and/or can be
an elastic
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 12 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
composite yarn as described in WO 2016/135211 which shall be incorporated
hereinto by
reference.
The inventors have found that the use of elastic base warp yarns and/or base
weft yarns is of
particular advantage because they can on the one hand be used to provide the
anchor yarns
and/or the loop yarns with droopy under portions upon taking the fabric from
the loom and
provide the woven fabric with stretch ability in warp direction and in weft
direction. In
particular in combination with droopy anchor yarn under portions and/or droopy
loop yarn
under portions being inelastic yarns, such as pure cotton yarns or polyester
yarns, a safety
mechanism can be established in warp and/or weft direction avoiding an
overstretching of the
fabric in warp and/or weft direction as soon as the length surplus of the
droopy under portions
is compensated by stretching the woven fabric in the respective direction. In
particular thereby,
a slaggy look of the woven fabric, which can be caused by overstretching of
the elastic yarns,
can be avoided.
In particular, the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are less elastic than
the base warp yarns
and/or the base weft yarns. In particular, the anchor yarns and/or the loop
yarns are inelastic
yarns, in particular cotton yarns or polyester yarns. In particular, an
inelastic yarn can be
described as not being capable of being stretched beyond a maximum length
without
permanent deformation, said maximum length being less than 1.05 times,
preferably less than
1.02 times, of its original length; or not at all. In particular, typical
material for an inelastic
yarn are: natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, polyester, nylon, etc.
Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns
have a greater
shrinkage ratio than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns. In particular,
the shrinkage ratio
of the base warp yarns and/or base weft yarns is at least 5 %, 10 %, 15%, 20%,
25% or 30 %
higher and/or maximally 200%, 150%, l00%, 80%, 50%, 45%, 40% or 35% higher
than the
shrinkage ratio of the base warp yarns. In particular, the shrinkage ratio
relates to shrinkage
occurring upon taking a fabric from the loom, washing or wetting the yarns
and/or a fabric
made of these yarns and/or to thermal shrinkage. In particular, methods for
measuring the
shrinkage ratio of a yarn have been described in EP 3 231 907 which shall be
incorporated
hereinto by reference.
It has been found that using base warp yarns and/or weft yarns having a
greater shrinkage
ratio than the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns is of particular advantage in
that it can be used
to provide the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns with the previously
described loose under
portions.
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 13 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
In particular, the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns have a greater
weave tightness
than the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns. In particular, the sum of a number of
over portions
and under portions of one yarn in relation to the number of picks bypassed by
said over
portions and under portions, defines that yam's weave tightness. In
particular, the term
"greater weave tightness" shall be understood in that the respective yarn
having the greater
weave tightness makes more ups and downs than the yarn having the lower weave
tightness.
In particular, ups and downs mean, in the example of a warp yarn, that the
warp yarn comes
up to the front of a weft yarn and, after passing on the front of a certain
number of weft yarns
(defining an over portion) goes down to the back of a weft yarn. In
particular, for the same
unitary length of fabric, in the case of warp yarns in warp direction, the
number of ups and
downs of the yarn having the greater weave tightness is larger than the number
of up and down
movements of the yarn having the smaller weave tightness.
In particular after weaving the fabric, the warp yarns and weft yarns are not
straight anymore,
but corrugated. This effect can be referred as to crimping, and, depending on
the yarn that it
relates to, either as warp crimp or weft crimp. For example, wo cm of a
straight warp yarn will
in particular be woven to a fabric length of less than loo cm, for example 98
to 89 cm. In
particular, the shorter length of the woven fabric in warp direction with
respect to the original
length of the warp yarn can be referred to as crimp ratio. In particular, the
crimp ratio depends
on the diameters of the warp yarns and weft yarns, the densities of the warp
yarns and weft
yarns, as well as on the weaving pattern. If the warp yarn changes up or down
for every
successive weft yarn, a 1:1 weave pattern would be realized which would in
particular result in
the maximum corrugation or maximum warp crimp. Such a warp moving up and down
with
respect to each successive weft yarn realizes the maximum possible weave
tightness. If another
warp yarn defines a pattern having alternating over portions bypassing one
weft yarn and
under portions bypassing five weft yarns (which may be called 1/5 weave
pattern), the weave
tightness would be much less.
In particular by choosing the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns to
have a greater
weave tightness than the anchor yarns and/or loop yarns, droopy anchor yarn
under portions
and/or loop yarn under portions can be provided.
In particular, the base warp yarns and/or weft yarns are tensioned, in
particular remain
tensioned after taking the woven fabric from the weaving loom, and/or the
anchor yarns
and/or loop yarns are tensionless.
In particular, the base warp yarns, the base weft yarns, the anchor yarns
and/or the loop yarns
are composite yarns or comprise a fibrous core as described and claimed in
WO2o2o/211977
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 14 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
which shall be incorporated hereinto by reference. Preferably the base warp
yarns and the base
weft yarns are such composite yarns and/or comprise such fibrous core.
In particular, at least one, in particular all, of the base warp yarns and/or
base weft yarns are
indigo dyed, and/or wherein the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns are not
indigo dyed.
In particular, the base warp yarns are indigo dyed and the base weft yarns are
undyed. In
particular in combination with the warp-faced structure, this allows providing
the typical
indigo blue look of a denim fabric's frontside while the backside remains
substantially white.
In the case of using ring dyed yarns for the indigo dyed yarns, the indigo dye
is most
concentrated at the surface of the yarns whereas the yarns' cores remain
undyed which allows
for very characteristic coloring options. Different finishing techniques can
be applied to the
woven fabric to enhance the coloring properties. For example, the woven fabric
can be hand
scraped, sandblasted, stone washed, or treated in other ways in particular to
allow varying
amounts of the undyed cores of the indigo yarns to become visible. In
particular in combination
with the above described long and/or droopy anchor yarn under portions and
loop yarn under
portions, using dyed base warp yarns and/or dyed base weft yarns in
combination with undyed
anchor yarns and undyed loop yarns significanCy increases the proLedion of the
backside of
the woven fabric and in particular a wearers skin contacting the backside from
staining.
In particular, at least one, in particular all, of the base warp yarns and/or
base weft yarns is
thicker than at least one, in particular all, of the anchor yarns and/or of
the loop yarns. The
inventors have found that in particular choosing thicker base warp yarns
and/or base weft
enhances the effect of hiding the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns by the
base warp yarns
and/or weft yarns as well as the previously described closely woven base warp
yarn and/or
base weft yarn arrangement. In particular thereby, the effect of hiding the
anchor yarns and/or
the loop yarns from being seen and/or felt at the frontside of the woven
fabric is increased
thereby avoiding the look of the frontside, in particular the denim like look
provided by the
base weave, to be impaired by the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns. The
inventors have
found that this effect can be surprisingly increased by choosing the base warp
yarns and the
base weft yarns to be thicker than the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns.
In particular, the base warp yarns have a yarn count between 7 and 30 Ne, in
particular
between 7 and 20 Ne, more in particular between 7 and 10 Ne, In particular
alternatively, the
base warp yarns can have a yarn count between 20 and 30 Ne or between 10 and
20 Ne.
In particular, the base weft yarns have a yarn count between 10 and 40 Ne, in
particular
between 10 and 30 Ne, more in particular between 10 and 20 Ne. In particular
alternatively,
the base weft yarns have a yarn count between 30 and 40 Ne or between 20 and
30 Ne.
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 15 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
In particular, the anchor yarns have a yarn count between 10 and 75 Ne, in
particular between
30 and 75 Ne, more in particular between 50 and 75 Ne. In particular
alternatively, the anchor
yarns have a yarn count between 10 and 30 Ne or between 30 and 50 Ne.
In particular, the loop yarns have a yarn count between 40 and 90 Ne, in
particular between
60 and 90 Ne, more in particular between 70 and 90 Ne. In particular
alternatively, the loop
yarns have a yarn count between 40 and 6o Ne or between 6o and 70 Ne.
In particular, the base warp yarns and/or the base weft yarns have a lager
yarn density than
the anchor yarns and/or the loop yarns.
In particular, the base warp yarns have a yarn density between 20 and 6o
yarns/cm, in
particular between 20 and 40 yarns/cm, more in particular between 20 and 30
yarns/cm. In
particular alternatively, the base warp yarns have a yarn density between 40
and 6o yarns/cm
or between 30 and 40 yarns/cm.
In particular, the base weft yarns have a yarn density between 10 and 50
yarns/cm, in
particular between 20 and 40 yarns/cm, more in particular between 20 and 30
yarns/cm. In
particular alternatively, the base weft yarns have a yarn density between 30
and 50 yarns/cm
or between 10 and 20 yarns/cm.
In particular, the anchor yarns have a yarn density between 5 and 30 yarns/cm,
in particular
between 5 and 20 yarns /cm, more in particular between 10 and 20 yarns /cm. In
particular
alternatively, the anchor yarns have a yarn density between 20 and 30 yarns/cm
or between 5
and 10 yarns/cm.
In particular, the loop yarns have a yarn density between 5 and 30 yarns/cm,
in particular
between 5 and 20 yarns/cm, more in particular between 5 and 10 yarns/cm. In
particular
alternatively, the loop yarns have a yarn density between 20 and 30 yarns/cm
or between 10
and 20 yarns/cm.
In particular, the woven fabric has a fabric weight between 6 and 16
ounces/yard, in particular
between 8 and 14 ounces/yard, more in particular between 10 and 12
ounces/yard.
In particular, the anchor yarns and the base warp yarns or weft yarns are
alternated in
particular in that each anchor yarn is followed by at least one, in particular
at least two, base
warp yarn or weft yarn and/or in that each base warp yarn or weft yarns is
followed by at least
one, in particular at least two, anchor yarn. Additionally or alternatively,
the loop yarns and
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 16 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
the base warp yarns or weft yarns are alternated in particular in that each
loop yarn is followed
by at least one, in particular at least two, base warp yarn or weft yarn
and/or in that each base
warp yarn or weft yarn is followed by at least one, in particular at least
two, loop yarn.
In particular, the at least one anchor yarn under portion comprises at least
20 O, 40%, 6o%,
80 % or 100 % of the anchor yarn under portions. In other words, one or more
of the features
previously and subsequently described with respect to the at least one anchor
yarn under
portion is realized in at least 20 %, 40%, 60%, 80 % or 100 % of the under
portions of the
anchor yarns, in particular of at least 20 %, 40%, 60%, 80 % or wo % of the
anchor yarns.
Additionally or alternatively the at least one loop yarn under portion
comprises at least 20 %,
40%, 60%, 80 % or 100 % of the loop yarn under portions. In other words, one
or more of the
features previously and subsequently described with respect to the at least
one loop yarn Linder
portion is realized in at least 20 O, 40%, 60%, 80 % or 100 % of the under
portions of the loop
yarns, in particular of at least 20 c/o, 40%, 60%, 80 % or 100 % of the loop
yarns.
The invention also relates to a garment, in particular a trouser, more in
particular a denim
trouser, comprising a woven fabric according Lo any of the above described
aspeas of the
inventions or any of its embodiments, in particular wherein the frontside is
the side being
visible upon wearing the garment and/or wherein the backside is the side
facing a wearers skin.
The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a woven fabric
according to any of
the above described aspects of the inventions or any of its embodiments and/or
for
manufacturing the above described garment. In particular the method can be
conducted in that
such woven fabric or garment can be manufactured.
Preferred embodiments of the invention are described in the dependent claims.
Further
advantages, features, and characteristics of the invention become apparent by
the subsequent
description of the preferred embodiments which are illustrated in the figures,
wherein:
Fig 1 illustrates a schematic view of an exemplary woven fabric
according to the
invention;
Fig. 2a does not illustrate an embodiment of the invention but
schematically illustrates
the extension of anchor yarn under portions and loop yarn under portions when
the woven fabric is on the loom;
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 17 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
Fig 2b does not illustrate an embodiment of the invention but
schematically
illustrates the droopy nature of the anchor yarn under portions and of the
loop
yarn under portions after taking the woven fabric from the loom;
Fig. 3 illustrates a first example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig. 4 illustrates a second example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig. 5 illustrates a third example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 6 illustrates a fourth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 7 illustrates a fifth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 8 illustrates a sixth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 9 illustrates a seventh example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 10 illustrates an eighth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 11 illustrates a ninth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
and
Fig 12 illustrates a tenth example of a weave structure of the
inventive woven fabric;
Fig 1 illustrates an exemplary, schematic embodiment of a woven fabric 1
according to the
invention. The woven fabric 1 comprises a base weave comprising base warp
yarns 3 and base
weft yarns 5. The base warp yarns 3 and the base weft yarns 5 are woven into
the base weave
in that the base warp yarns 3 comprise under portions 13 extending on the back
of one weft
yarn 5 and over portions 23 confining the base warp yarn under portions 13 and
extending on
the front of three base weft yarns 5. The base weft yarns 5 comprise under
portions 15 extending
on the back of three base warp yarns 3 and over portions 25 confining the base
weft yarn under
portions 15 and extending on the front of one base warp yarn 3. The base weft
yarn over
portions 25 of adjacent base weft yarns 5 are diagonally offset from each
other to provide a
base weave with a diagonal pattern on the frontside FS. The base weave has a
3/1 weave
providing the base weave with a typical denim look on the frontside (FS).
CA 03211782 2023- 01441
WO 2022/189583 - 18 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
The woven fabric further comprises a loop weave comprising anchor yarns 7 and
loop yarns 9
extending orthogonal to the anchor yarns 7. In the illustrated embodiment of
Fig. 1, the anchor
yarns 7 are warp yarns so that the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns. This is also
the case for the
subsequently described weaving patterns shown in Figs. 3 to 12. However, as
explained above,
it is also within the scope of the present invention that the anchor yarns 7
are weft yarns, so
that the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns. Where it is described in the claims and
the description of
the present invention that an over portion or an under portion extends along
base warp yarns
3 or base weft yarns 5, the "or" alternative relates to these alternative
configurations. In other
words, in an embodiment where the anchor yarns 7 are warp yarns, the
subsequently described
anchor yarn under portions 17 and anchor yarn over portions 27 extend on the
front and,
respectively, the back of the base weft yarns. In the alternative
configuration, in which the
anchor yarns 7 are weft yarns and in which the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns,
the subsequently
described anchor yarn under portions 17 and over portions 27 respectively
extend on the back
and, respectively, the front of the base warp yarns 3. The same applies
mutatis mutandis to the
loop yarns 9. In the illustrated embodiment, in which the loop yarns 9 are
weft yarns, the
subsequently and previously described loop yarn under portions 19 and over
portions 29
extend on the back and, respectively, on the front of the base warp yarns 3.
However, in the
alternative configuration where the anchor yarns 7 are weft yarns, so that the
loop yarns 9 are
warp yarns, the respectively described loop yarn under portions 19 and loop
yarn over portions
29 extend on the back and, respectively, on the front of base weft yarns 5.
In the following, the invention will be described with respect to embodiments
in which the
anchor yarns 7 are warp yarns and in which the loop yarns 9 are weft yarns.
However, as
previously described, it is also within the embodiment of the invention that
the anchor yarns 7
are weft yarns and the loop yarns 9 are warp yarns. In this case, as
previously described, the
extension of the respective anchor yarn under portions 17 and of the anchor
yarn over portions
27 do not extend on the back of the base weft yarns 5 and, respectively, on
the front of the base
weft yarns 5 but on the back of the base warp yarns 3 and, respectively, on
the front of the base
warp yarns 3. The same applies mutatis mutandis for the loop yarns 9.
The woven fabric 1 shown in Figure 1 comprises a frontside FS and a backside
BS. The side
facing the viewer in Figure 1 is the backside BS. The side facing away from
the viewer is the
frontside FS. Each of the base warp yarns 3, base weft yarns 5, anchor yarns 7
and loop yarns
9 has a front facing the frontside FS and a back facing the backside BS. For
purpose of
illustration, the frontside FS and the backside BS are indicated in Figures 2a
and 2b.
In Figure 1, the anchor yarns 7 and the base warp yarns 3 are alternated in
that each anchor
yarn 7 is followed in weft direction by a group of two base warp yarns 3. Each
group of two base
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 19 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
warp yarns 3 is followed in weft direction by a single anchor yarn 7. Beside
this preferred
embodiment of the invention, the anchor yarns 7 can also be alternated with
the warp yarns 3
in that each anchor yarn 7 is followed by a single base warp yarn 3 or by more
than two base
warp yarns. Additionally or alternatively, the anchor yarns 7 can be
alternated with the base
warp yarns 3 in that each base warp yarn 3 or group of base warp yarns 3 is
followed by a group
of at least two adjacent anchor yarns 7.
In Figure 1, the loop yarns 9 are alternated with the base weft yarns 5 in
that each loop yarn 9
is followed in warp direction by a group of two adjacent base weft yarns 5.
Each group of these
two adjacent base weft yarns 5 is followed in warp direction by a single loop
yarn 9. Besides
this embodiment, the loop yarns 9 can also be followed in warp direction by
single-base weft
yarns 5. Additionally, or alternatively, each base weft yarn 5 or group of two
adjacent base weft
yarns can be followed in warp direction by a group of at least two adjacent
loop yarns 9.
In Figure 1, each anchor yarn 7 comprises a plurality of under portions 17
extending on the
back of five base weft yarns 5 and a plurality of over portions 27 confining
each of the anchor
yarn under portions 17 and connecting ale anchor under portions.17 with the
base weave by
extending on the front of one of the base weft yarns 5.
Further, each loop yarn 9 comprises a plurality of under portions 19 extending
on the back of
multiple anchor yarns 7 and on the back of multiple base warp yarns 3. The
loop yarns 9 further
comprise a plurality of over portions 29 confining the plurality of loop yarn
under portions 19
and extending on the front of at least one of the anchor yarns 7.
The previously described aspect of the invention, according to which the at
least one anchor
yarn under portion 17 and loop yarn under portion 19 extend in between their
confining over
portions 27,29 on the back of at least five yarns can be seen in Figure 1.
Therein, the anchor
yarn under portions 17 extend in between their confining anchor yarn over
portions 27 on the
back of five base weft yarns 5. As can be seen in Figure 1, some of the anchor
yarn under
portions 17 additionally extend on the back of one loop yarn 9 so that they
extend in total on
the back of six yarns, namely five base weft yarns 5 and one loop yarn 9. It
shall be clear that
the number of yarns along which the anchor yarn under portions 17 extend
represent the sum
of base weft yarns 5 and loop yarns 9 on the back of which the anchor yarn
under portions 17
extend in between their confining anchor yarn over portions 27. As can be seen
in the different
embodiments of weave patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12, the aspect of the
invention relating
to the number of yarns along which the anchor yarns under portions 17 pass
does not
necessarily exclusively relate to the number of base weft yarns 5 and/or loop
yarns 9. As, for
instance, shown in Fig. 12, the anchor yarn under portions 17 can only extend
on the back of
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 20 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
two loop yarns 9 between their confining anchor yarn over portions 27 as long
as they
additionally extend on the back of at least three base weft yarns 5 between
their confining
anchor yarn over portions 27. The same applies mutatis mutandis to the number
of yarns
bypassed by the loop yarn under portions 19 between their confining loop yarn
over portions
29.
In Figure 1, the loop yarn under portions 19 extend in between their confining
over portions
29 on the back of at least five anchor yarns 7. Since the anchor yarns 7 are
alternately arranged
with groups of two adjacent base warp yarns 3, the loop yarn under portions 19
additionally
extend in between their confining over portions 29 on the back of six groups
of two base warp
yarns 5 (in other words, in addition on the back of twelve base warp yarns 5).
Thus, in total,
the loop yarn under portions 19 extend between their confining over portions
29 on the back
of at least seventeen yarns.
The aspect of the invention, according to which the at least one anchor yarn
under portion 17
and loop yarn under portion 19 are droopy in that they have a length surplus
compared to the
distance between their confining over portions 27, 29 can also be see in Fig.
i. In Fig, 1, the
anchor yarn under portions 17 extend curved in that they are spaced from the
base weft yarns
and loop yarns 9 on the back of which they extend. The same applies to the
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending curved and being spaced from the base warp yarns 3 and
the anchor
yarns 7 on the back of which they extend. Contrary thereto, the base warp yarn
under portions
13 and the base weft yarn under portions 15 are in contact with the yarns 5, 3
on the back of
which they extend.
A method for calculating the length surplus of the anchor yarn under portions
17 and loop yarns
under portion 19 compared to the distance between their confining over
portions 27, 29 can be
explained on the basis of figure 2b. In Fig. 2b, droopy under portions are
only shown in one.
However, as previously described, contrary to figure 2b, the inventive fabric
can comprise
droopy under portions in warp direction and in weft direction. In Fig. 2b,
droopy under
portions 17, 19 can be seen extending curved and spaced from the yarns 3, 5 on
the back of
which they extend. The droopy under portions 17, 19 are confined by two over
portions 27, 29
extending on the front of one yarn 3, 5. The length surplus of an under
portion 13, 15, 17, 19
compared to the distance between its confining over portions 23, 25, 27, 29
can be calculated
by the following equation:
LU
LS = (¨DO¨ 1) * 100 %
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 21 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
Therein, LS is an abbreviation for the length surplus, LU is an abbreviation
for the length of an
under portion 13, 15, 17, 19 between its two confining over portions 23, 25,
27, 29, and DO is
an abbreviation for the distance between the two over portions 23, 25, 27, 29
confining the
under portion13, 15, 17, 19. In particular, the length surplus of the droopy
under portions 17,
19 has to be calculated after taking the fabric from the loom. As long as the
fabric is on the
loom, the anchor yarn under portions 17 and the loop yarn under portions 19
can extend
straight as shown in figure 2a between their confining over portions 27, 29,
in other words do
not have a length surplus.
The aspect of the invention, according to which the loop yarns 9 do not
comprise over portions
extending on the front of the base warp yarns 3 and/or the base weft yarns 5
can be seen in Fig.
1. As previously described, Fig.1 shows an embodiment in which the loop yarns
9 are weft yarns
5. Respectively, with respect to Fig. 1, this aspect of the invention requires
the loop yarns 9 to
not comprise over portions extending on the front of the base warp yarns 3. In
other words,
the loop yarns 9 do never extend on the front of the base warp yarns 3.
As can be seen in Fig.1, the anchor yarns 7 and the loop yarns 9 are offset
along their entire
exlension from the fronL side FS. In order Lo check whether Lhe loop yarns 9
and Lhe anchor
yarns 7 are offset from the front side FS, the front side FS can be defined as
a fictitious straight
plane lying flat on one side of the fabric. Additionally or alternatively it
could be said that the
base warp yarns 3 have axial centerlines and define a base warp/weft plane
extending through
the centerlines along over portions 23 of the base warp yarns 3 extending on
the front of the
base weft yarns 5, wherein the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9 have
axial centerlines
and wherein the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9 axial centerlines
particularly along
their entire extension extend on the back of the base warp/weft plane. The
term "axial
centerlines" as used herein particularly refers to the longitudinal axis of a
yarn, in other words,
to a line connecting the center (midpoint) of the cross sections of the
respective yarn, in
particular of the cross sections of infinite slices arranged one after the
other in longitudinal
direction to form the yarn. In particular, the axial centerline follows the
course of the yarn, in
other words, if the yarn is curved or extends in a sinus like manner, the
axial center line extends
in the same curved or sinus like manner. In Fig. 1, the anchor yarn under
portions 17 extend in
between the base weft yarns 5 and the loop yarns 9 along one or two loop yarns
9 and along
five base weft yarns 5.
The droopy nature of the anchor yarn under portions 17 and/or of the loop yarn
under portions
19 can be realized for instance by choosing elastic yarns for the base warp
yarns 3 and/or the
base weft yarns 5 and/or by choosing anchor yarns 7 and/or loop yarns 9 being
less elastic than
the base warp yarns 3 and/or the base weft yarns 5. Additionally or
alternatively, the droopy
nature might be realized by choosing base warp yarns 3 and/or base weft yarns
5 haying a
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 22 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
greater shrinkage ratio than the anchor yarns 7 and/or the loop yarns 9. As
exemplary
illustrated in figure 2b, after taking the woven fabric 1 from the loom, the
base warp yarns 3
and/or the base weft yarns 5, can be tensioned. Additionally or alternatively,
the anchor yarn
under portions 17 and/or the loop yarn under portions 19 can be tensionless.
As illustrated in Fig. 1, the base warp yarns 3 can be thicker than the anchor
yarns 7 and/or the
loop yarns 9. Additionally or alternatively, the base warp yarns 3 can be
thicker than the base
weft yarns 5. Additionally or alternatively, the anchor yarns 7 can be thicker
than the loop yarns
9.
In the following, the invention will be described in more detail with respect
to ten embodiments
of weave patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12. In all of these weave patterns,
the vertical direction
is the warp direction and the horizontal direction is the weft direction. All
of these weave
patterns comprise base warp yarns 3, base wefts yarns 5, anchor yarns 7 and
loop yarns 9. All
of these weave patterns comprise three sub-weave patterns, namely a selvedge
sub-weave
pattern 31, a base warp yarn sub-weave pattern 33 and an anchor yarn sub-weave
pattern 37.
In Fig. 3, Lhe selvedge sub-weave pattern 31 is highlighled by Lhe frame 31
framing all weft
yarns 5, 9 and the first two warp yarns in weft direction. The base warp yarn
sub-weave pattern
33 is highlighted by the frame 33 framing all weft yarns 5, 9 and the base
warp yarns 3. The
anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37 is highlighted by the frame 37 framing all
weft yarns 5, 9
and the anchor yarns 7.
In all of the weave patterns shown in the figures 3 to 12, the alternation of
the base weft yarns
with the loop yarns 9 is specified. In the weave pattern illustrated in Figs.
3, 4 and 7, the loop
yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are alternated in that single loop yarns 9
are followed by
groups of two base weft yarns 5. In the weave pattern illustrated in Figs 5, 8
and 9, the loop
yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are alternated in that groups of two loop
yarns 9 are followed
by groups of two base weft yarns 5. In the weave pattern illustrated in Figs
6, 10, 11 and 12, the
loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5 are alternated in that single loop
yarns 9 are followed
by single base weft yarns 5.
Contrary to the alternation of the loop yarns 9 and the base weft yarns 5, the
alternation of the
base warp yarns 3 and the anchor yarns 7 is not specified in the weave
patterns shown in Figs.
3 to 12. The preferred alternation of anchor yarns 7 and base warp yarns 3 of
any of the weave
patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12 is the previously described and in Fig. 3
illustrated
alternation, according to which each anchor yarn 7 is alternated with base
warp yarns 3 in that
single anchor yarn 7 are followed in weft direction by groups of two base warp
yarns 3.
However, it shall be clear that the weave patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12
can also be realized
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 23 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
by different alternations of the anchor yarns 7 and base warp yarns 3, such as
those alternations
described above.
The base warp yarn sub-weave pattern 33 illustrates how the base weft yarns 5
and the loop
yarns 9 are interwoven with respect to the base warp yarns 3. This means that,
regardless of
the alternation of the base warp yarns 3 and the anchor yarns 7, the base weft
yarns 5 and the
loop yarns 9 will always, with respect to the base warp yarns 3, be woven as
illustrated in the
base warp yarn sub-weave pattern 33. As can be seen by comparing Figs. 3 to
12, in the base
warp yarns sub-weave pattern 33 of all Figs. 3 to 12, the base weft yarns 5
are woven with the
base warp yarns 3 in an 3/1 alternation in that the base weft yarns 5 comprise
over portions 25
extending on the front of one base warp yarn 3 and under portions 15 extending
between two
confining over portions 25 on the back of three base warp yarns 3. Contrary
thereto, the loop
yarns 9, in the base warp yarn sub-weave pattern 33 shown in all Figs. 3 to
12, do not comprise
over portions extending on the front of the base warp yarns 3. In other words,
the loop yarns 9
always remain on the back of the base warp yarns 3. The base weft yarn over
potions 25
extending on the front of the base warp yarns 3 form a diagonal pattern in all
base warp yarn
sub-weave pallerns 33 shown in Figs. 3 Lo 12 for providing the base weave wiLh
the diagonal
look of a denim fabric.
Now, the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37 will be described in more detail for
each of the
weave patterns shown in Figures 3 to 12 separately. In Fig. 3, in the anchor
yarn sub-weave
pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5 comprise under portions extending on the
back of one anchor
yarn 7 confining over portions extending on the front of eight anchor yarns 7.
The loop yarns
9 comprise in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37 over portions 29 extending
on the front of
one anchor yarn 7 and confining loop yarn under portions 19 extending on the
back of six
anchor yarns 7 between its confining over portions 29. In particular, these
under portions 19
can be called longer under portions. In weft direction, each longer under
portion 19 is followed
by one shorter under portion, after an intermediate over portion 29, extending
on the back of
one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig.3, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions 17
extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining anchor
yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17. As can be seen in the small frame, framing such anchor yarn under
portion 17 and
its two confining over portions 27, the anchor yarn under portion 17 can in
addition extend on
the back of two loop yarns 9 (black boxes) and on the front of three loop
yarns 9 (white boxes)
in between its confining over portion 27. Respectively, the framed anchor yarn
under portion
17 extends on the back of ten yarns, namely on the back of eight base weft
yarns 5 and on the
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 24 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
back of two loop yarns 9, between its confining over portions 27. The over
portions and under
portions of the base weft yarns 5 and of the loop yarns 9 are arranged in all
examples shown in
the Figs. 3 to 12 in a diagonal pattern.
In Fig. 4, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of four anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions
29. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under
portions. In weft direction,
each longer under portion 19 is followed by two shorter under portion, after
respective
intermediate over portions 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 4, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 5, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of six anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions 29.
In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under portions. In
weft direction,
each longer under portion 19 is followed by one shorter under portion, after
one respective
intermediate over portion 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 5, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions 17
extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining anchor
yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 6, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of six anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions 29.
In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under portions. In
weft direction,
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 25 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
each longer under portion 19 is followed by one shorter under portion, after
one respective
intermediate over portion 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 6, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 7, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of eight anchor yarns 7 between its
confining over portions
29.
In Fig. 7, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions 17
exLending on Lhe back of eighL base weft yarns 5 beLween Lwo confining anchor
yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 8, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of eight anchor yarns 7 between its
confining over portions
29.
In Fig. 8, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 9, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of four anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions
29. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under
portions. In weft direction,
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 26 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
each longer under portion 19 is followed by two shorter under portion, after
respective
intermediate over portions 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 9, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 10, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of four anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions
29. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under
portions. In weft direction,
each longer under portion 19 is followed by two shorter under portion, after
respective
intermediate over portions 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 10, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 11, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
portions 19 extending on the back of eight anchor yarns 7 between its
confining over portions
29.
In Fig.ii, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
In Fig. 12, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern 37, the base weft yarns 5
comprise under
portions extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7 confining over portions
extending on the
front of eight anchor yarns 7. The loop yarns 9 comprise in the anchor yarn
sub-weave pattern
37 over portions 29 extending on the front of one anchor yarn 7 and confining
loop yarn under
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
WO 2022/189583 - 27 -
PCT/EP2022/056239
portions 19 extending on the back of two anchor yarns 7 between its confining
over portions
29. In particular, these under portions 19 can be called longer under
portions. In weft direction,
each longer under portion 19 is followed by three shorter under portion, after
respective
intermediate over portions 29, extending on the back of one anchor yarn 7.
In Fig. 12, in the anchor yarn sub-weave pattern, the anchor yarns 7 comprise
under portions
17 extending on the back of eight base weft yarns 5 between two confining
anchor yarn over
portions 27 extending on the front of one base weft yarn 5 and confining the
anchor yarn under
portion 17.
The features disclosed in the above description, the figures and the claims
may be significant
for the realisation of the invention in its different embodiments individually
as in any combi-
nation.
Reference signs
1 woven fabric
3 base warp yarns
base weft yarns
7 anchor yarns
9 loop yarns
13 base warp yarn under portion
base weft yarn under portion
17 anchor yarn under portion
19 loop yarn under portion
23 base warp yarn over portion
base weft yarn over portion
27 anchor yarn over portion
29 loop yarn over portion
31 selvedge sub-weave pattern
33 base warp yarn sub-weave pattern
37 anchor yarn sub-weave pattern
FS front side
BS back side
64/872
CA 03211782 2023- 9- 11
