Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
J 244 (R)
10630Z~
The present invention relates to a cosmetic prepara-
tion, in particular to a hair treating preparation having
improved sebostatic or sebo-repressing activity,
It is generally known that seborrhoea of the human
scalp is a s`erious problem. Seborrhoea of the scalp is
caused by excessive secretion Or the sebaceou~ glands, the
result of which i8 that the hair, after being washed,
becomes rapidly greasy again and consequently wispy and
untidy in appearance.
The object of the invention therefore is to provide
a cosmetic preparation, in particular a hair treating
preparation by which a significànt decreaæe of subsequent
or recurrent greasing is obtained.
This object is achieved in that it was found that
hair treating preparations with a pH within a ~pecific
range, which contain glycyrrhizin or salts thereof, cause
a substantial decrease of recurrent greasing of the hair
treated with them. Whereas on applying conventional hair ;-
tréating preparations renewed grease formation will often
set in after two days already, the result Or hair treat-
ment with the preparations according to the invention -
depending on which type of glycyrrhizin is used - i8 that
grease formation may only recur after. 5 dayD.
"~ Accordingly the present invention relates to a cos-
2~5 metic preparation, in particular a cosmetic hair treating
preparation~ with sebostatic or sebo-repressing action,
having a pH within a speciric range and comprising an
e~fective amount Or glycyrrhizin or salts thereof.
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J 244 (R)
1063029
Glycyrrhizin is a compound, known per se, and is the
g~ycoside Or 1 mole glycyrrhetinic acid and 2 moles glucur-
onic acid. According to the invention glycyrrhizin can be
used either as such or in the rorm Or its salts as e.g.
potassium, a~monium or calcium salts and other soluble salts,
including hydrolysed potassium/calcium glycyrrhizinate. For
the purpose of the invention the ammonium salt is preferred.
The proportion of glycyrrhizin or salts thereof to
be used is of course dependent on the purity Or the product;
in general, however, the proportion thereor is in the
range of 0.1-10, preferably between 0.25-5, in particular
between 0.5-1.5%, calculated on the hair treating prepara-
tion.
The ,~H require~ for the hair treating p~eparation
according to ~he in~ention is between 5.0 and 9.~, pre~er-
ably between 6.0 and 8.o.
The preparation according to the invention may be
provided in any suitable form. It may for instance be
formulated into an aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solution;
it may also be applied in the form of a gel by means of
suitable thickening agents or it may be administered in
the form of a spray. Further forms Or application are
hair setting agents,hair-cure preparations, hair creams,
hair lotionR, etc. It is prererred that the compositions
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2~~ Or the invention do not contain reducing agents of the type
` used in cold permanent waYe compositions, such as thio-
glycolates ~r cysteine hydrochloride, as these may interfere
w~th the sebostatic or sebo-suppressing action or the
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J 244 (R)
1063029
glycyrrhizin or the salts thereof. A preferred embodiment
of the present invention is however a shampoo which in
addition to glycyrrhizin or salts thereof essentially
comprises a detergent-active material. Examples of such
detergent-active materials are anionic surfactants such
as alkylaryl sulphonate, alkyl- and alkylarylether sulphate,
alkyl sulphate, sarcoside, ~atty acid alkylolamide sulphate,
sulphuric acid ester o~ monoglycerides,peptide fatty acid
condensates,alkylpolyglycolether carboxylic acids, alkyl-
and alkylether phosphate, alpha olefin sulphonate, etc.
Also cationic surfactants may be used, such as quaternary
ammonium compounds, as well as ampholytic surractants such
as betaines and sulpho-betaines, alkylamino carboxylic acids,
imidazoline derivatives. Further, nonionic surfactants may
be used, such as for instance fatty alcohol polyglycolethers,
fatty acid polyglycol esters, alkylphenolpolyglycols,
ethoxylated amides and amines. Furthermore also tertiary
amine-oxides may be used. The proportion of detergent-active
material amounts in general to 5 to ~0% by weight, prefer-
ably 10-80% by weight.
The shampoos according to the invention may rurther
contain the usual additives as e.g. thickening agents,
foam improvers, foam stabilizers, conditioning agents,
antistatic agents, pH controllers, opaci~iers and gloss
improving agents, solubilizers, perrumes, preservatives,
colourants, etc. The pre~erred shampoos are liquid aqueous
compositions according to the invention.
The present invention is further illustrated by the
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1063029 J 244 (R)
~ollowing examples.
Example I
The following liquid shampoo was prepared:
wt.%
A B
Sodium laurylethersulphate 70.0 70.0
Coconut fatty acid diethanolamide2.0 2.0
Formalin 0.1 0.1
Perfume 0.5 -5
NaCl 3.0 4.0
Distilled water 24.3822.4
Citric acid 0.02
Ammoniumglycyrrhizinate
(100% active ingredient) - 1.0
15 ~ pH-value 6.9 6-7
Each shampoo was used one time by a test panel of
40 members, who had very greasy hair; subsequently the
results on the hair were observed over a12days' period,
without the hair being washed again during this period.
With product A recurrent grease ~ormation could be ob~erved
a~ter one day already, whereas with product B recurrent
greasing could be observed only after six days.
Example II
The followinE shampoos were prepared:
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1063029 J 2 4 4 ( R )
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o
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h N al ~ h ~ ~ ~
h ~ c h S
S ~ 3 ~ ~ O
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1063029 J 2 4 4 ( R )
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J 244 (R)
` 1063029
The above shampoos were each tested by a panel Or
- 25 members, who showed fairly severe scalp and hair greasing
(age of test members in each group 24-45 years; men:women
about 50:50); The washing tests were so arranged that as
many shampoos as possible were tested under analogous
conditions so as to exclude climatic influence as much
as possible. The treatment was erfected,in such a way that
during six weeks one hair washing was performed once a
week. The initial assessment, which preceded the issue of
shampoo, was made by personnel who were experts in the '
assessment of human scalp and hair. At the end of the six -
weeks' treatment the extent of recurrent grease forma~ion
of scalp and hair was subjected ror 10 days to a visual '''
and manual assessment. The following results were obtained:
Recurrent grease formation Or scalp and hair o~'the head
after one weekly hair washing performance over a period Or
six weeks
Shampoo Numbers of Number of testers with grease
~testers formation back at starting value
?o 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 days ,'
after
last
treat-
~,~ , ment
.
: 25 A 25 9 12 3 1 - - - ,- - -
- B 25 - 3 6 14 2
C 25 1 - 14 7 1 - - _ _ _
: ~ D 25 4 12 8
E 25 - ~ 5 2 10 8 - ~ - -
~:30 F 25 - 1 3 3 8 8
~: ~ G 25 ~ ~ ~ 1 1 8 12 3
: g H 25 ~ ~ ~ 2 3 6 8 4 2
J 25 ~ - - - 2 2 4 15 2 - -
K 25 . ~ ~ ~ 2 12 8 3
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- J 244 (R)
- 1063029
These results show that on us-ing shampoos A and D,
which contained no glycyrrhizinate, grease formation had
returned to the initial value after 1-2 days already. With
shampoos B and C this occurred only after 3-4 days and
with shampoosE-K grease formation was back at starting
value only after 5-7 days. Recurrent grease formation
was therefore substantially reduced by the use of the
preparations of the invention, as compared with placebos
A and D.
On comparing shampoos H, G, J and K (pH values
6, 7, 8 and 9) it was found that shampoosH, G and J-
showed a comparable effect and that shampoo K was rela-
tively less effective. Moreover, on using shampoo H
it was found that the hair could be very easily dressed.
15 Example III
In the manner as described in Example II, composi-
tions ~, G, J (pH values 6, 7 and 8) were compared with
composition L. L was identical to the other compositions,
except that it did not contain Na2HPO4.2H2O nor NaOH, and
20 that its pH was adjusted with HCl to 4.
The test-period was 14 day~, and the hair-washing
.
took place twice a week. The results showed that with
composition L grease formation returned to the initial
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value after two days with 5% of the testers, after three
25 days with another 5% of the testers, and after four days
~-~ with another 10% o~ the testers. With the compositions
H, G and J no grease ~ormation occurred at all until
arter four days~ when 8, 4 and 8% o~ the testers showed
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J 244 (R)
~063029
Lrease formation.
Example IV
A te~t as described in Example III with three identical
compositions as composition J, having a pH of 8, but with
0.3, 0.5 and 1.0% ammoniumglycyrrhizinate showed a relative
increase in effectiveness of the same order.
Example V
Using higher amounts of ammoniumglycyrrhizinate in
Example I B, e.g. 1.5, 2 and 5%, produced similar results,
but at the higher concentrations the appearance of the hair
becomes cosmetically less attractive.
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