Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
2173I99
Attorney Docket: BLAUM39322
IMPROVED WATERPROOF BREATHABLE LINING AND
OUTERWEAR CONSTRUCTED THEREFROM
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to fabric constructions for
outerwear, and, more particularly, to fabric constructions for
coats, pants, jackets, boots, gloves and other outer clothing
that are designed for protection against inclement weather.
The Prior Art
Clothing for inclement weather typically is constructed
from fabrics or combinations of fabrics that strive to achieve
seemingly inconsistent objectives. It is desired that such
clothing be vapor permeable, water repellent, wind obstructing,
stain resistant, dimensionally stable, externally durable, and
internally comfortable. Vapor permeable membranes and/or tight
weaving have been among the compromises needed to permit
simultaneous vapor permeability, water repulsion, and wind
obstruction. Special fabrics and/or coatings have been among
the compromises needed for stain resistance, dimensional
stability, external durability, and internal comfort. In
particular, for example, the interstices within tightly woven
fabric, which must remain open to achieve breathing, tend to
become blocked by water proofing and wind blocking treatments.
There is an ongoing need for the improvement of outerwear for
protection against inclement weather.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to outerwear comprising an
outer shell and an inner lining that combine to achieve vapor
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permeability, water repellency, wind obstruction, stain
resistance, dimensional stability, external durability, and
internal comfort. More specifically, the present invention
relates to a fabric construction comprising an outer shell and
an inner lining that are characterized by particular materials
and interrelationships.
The shell is composed of a tightly woven synthetic fabric,
which initially has imprinted on its inner face a high tensile
strength pattern, and which thereafter is impregnated with a
protective coating. The lining is composed of either a soft
synthetic fabric supporting a waterproof, breathable membrane
or a waterproof, breathable membrane sandwiched between a pair
of soft synthetic fabric supports. The membrane is either a
separate film that is laminated to the fabric or a coating that
is either formed on or adhered to the fabric. The membrane has
a structure that is characterized by either mechanical
micropore diameters or hydrophilic molecular intervals which
are infinitesimally smaller in dimension than the interstices
in the synthetic fabric of the shell. External durability and
stain resistance are provided by the tightly woven synthetic
fabric of the shell. Dimensional stability is provided by the
imprinted high tensile strength pattern. Water repellency and
wind obstruction are provided to some degree by the tightly
woven synthetic fabric of the shell and to a major degree by
the membrane of the lining. Vapor transmission is enabled by
the membrane of the lining and permitted by the interstices in
the support for the membrane, the interstices in the synthetic
fabric of the shell, and the openings in the pattern imprinted
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thereon. Comfortable contact with the wearer is provided by
the fabric support for the breathable membrane.
The invention accordingly comprises the fabric structures,
outerwear, and processes which are described in the following
specification, the scope of which will be indicated in the
appended claims.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
For a fuller understanding of the nature and objects of the
present invention, reference is made to the accompanying
drawings, wherein:
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a storm coat and storm
pants embodying the present invention;
Fig. 2 is a grossly exaggerated view of the shell
construction of the clothing of Fig. 1, cross-sectioned to
illustrate fabric, impregnation, and molecular structure;
Fig. 3 is a grossly exaggerated cross-sectional view of one
embodiment of the lining of the clothing of Fig. l;
Fig. 4 is a grossly exaggerated cross-sectional view of
another embodiment of the lining of the clothing of Fig. l;
20Fig. 5 illustrates one unconnected pattern that may be
imprinted on the inner face of the shell;
Fig. 6 illustrates a second unconnected pattern that may be
imprinted on the inner face of the shell;
Fig. 7 illustrates a third unconnected pattern that may be
imprinted on the inner face of the shell;
Fig. 8 illustrates one connected pattern that may be
imprinted on the inner face of the shell;
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Fig. 9 illustrates a second connected pattern that may be
imprinted on the inner face of the shell; and
Fig. 10 illustrates a connected pattern with interruptions
for a logo that may be imprinted on the inner face of the
shell.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT
Fig. 1 illustrates an outdoor outfit 10 consisting of a
jacket and pants that embody the present invention. All of the
major areas, i.e. bodice, arms and legs, comprise an outer
shell 12 and an inner lining 14. Figs. 2 to 10 illustrate
details of the shell 12 and the lining 14, of which the
illustrated clothing is constructed.
The Shell of Figs. 2 and 5 to 10
As shown in Fig. 2, the shell 12 generally comprises a
closely woven, synthetic polymer fabric 15 that is
characterized generally by a low level of water absorption,
i.e. nylon, acrylic, or polyester. After being scoured and
dyed, the inner face of the fabric 15 is directly imprinted
with a pattern stratum 16 of a relatively high tensile
strength, highly flexible elastomer, for example, an acrylic
urethane. The imprinted pattern 16 provides the shell 12 with
dimensional stability and prevents the fabric 15 from
unraveling. Preferably, the pattern is characterized by solid
portions that cover between 10 and 90% of the fabric 15 and
weighs from 0.1 to
1 ounces per square yard. It has been discovered that a
multiplicity of patterns, both unconnected and connected are
satisfactory, provided that the coverage is from 10 to 90% of
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the fabric 15. Unconnected patterns are characterized by
separate and discrete portions of elastomer. There are
patterns that are unconnected in only one dimension, such as a
set of wavy lines that extend from one side of the fabric to
another, and patterns that are unconnected in two dimensions,
such as a set of dots. Examples of unconnected patterns are
shown in Figs. 5 to 7, and include dots 16a, hexagons 16b, and
wavy lines 16c.
Connected patterns are patterns in which the elastomer is
uninterrupted; that is, the pattern is a mesh. Examples of
connected patterns are shown in Figs. 8 and 9, and include
contiguous hollow regular shapes with common sides, shapes such
as squares 16d or hexagons 16e. As shown in Fig. 10, it may be
noted that, even in connected patterns, there may be
discontinuities 36 in the pattern 16f where, for example, a
company logo might be placed.
Following imprinting of the pattern stratum 16, the entire
fabric/pattern combination is impregnated with a finishing
composition 18, preferably a fluorocarbon release agent that
will not clog the interstices of the fabric.
The Lining of Figs. 3 and 4
In one embodiment of the present invention, shown in Fig.
3, the lining 14 comprises, at its outer face, a membrane
stratum 22 and, at its inner face, a fabric stratum 24. The
membrane stratum 22 is composed of a thin polymer which, by
virtue of its physico-chemical structure, i.e. its
microstructure or molecular structure, is capable of
transmitting water vapor and of repelling liquid water. The
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fabric stratum 24 is a knitted or woven synthetic, such as
polyester or nylon, that presents a soft, comfortable surface
for contact with and drape about a wearer.
In another embodiment, shown in Fig. 4, a membrane stratum
30 is sandwiched between an outer fabric stratum 34 and an
inner fabric stratum 32. The membrane stratum 30 is composed
of a thin polymer which is capable of transmitting water vapor
and of repelling liquid water. The inner fabric stratum 32 is
shown as a knitted or woven synthetic polymer fabric and the
outer fabric stratum 34 is shown as a knitted synthetic, where
the synthetics are fabrics such as polyester or nylon.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the membrane
stratum 22, 30 is composed of an expanded microporous polymer,
i.e. a polymer which has been stretched to produce therethrough
microscopic pores (micropores) that are sufficiently large to
permit the transmission of water vapor, but that are too small
to permit the passage of droplets of liquid water. Droplets of
liquid water have a sufficiently large surface tension to
preclude deformation necessary for passage through the
micropores.
In another embodiment, the membrane stratum 22, 30 is a
hydrophilic urethane polymer or a hydrophilic copolyester
polymer. In these materials, water vapor travels along
molecular chains through the thermal gradient established
between a relatively high temperature at the surface of a
wearer and a relatively low temperature remote from the surface
of the wearer.
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In a further embodiment, the membrane stratum 22, 30 is a
combination of a microporous material and a hydrophilic
material, thereby taking some of the characteristics of both
materials.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the membrane
stratum 22, 30 is a separate film that is laminated to the
fabric stratum 24, 32, 34. In another embodiment, the membrane
stratum 22, 30 is a coating that is formed on or adhered to the
fabric stratum 24, 32, 34. There are several methods for
forming the coating. Direct coating consists of depositing the
coating material directly onto the fabric stratum 24, 32 and
then smoothing the material to a layer that is approximately 1
mm thick. Cast coating entails depositing a uniformly thick
layer of the coating on a release paper, adhering the exposed
surface of the coating to the fabric stratum 24, 32, and
removing the release paper.
Examples of Preferred Components
The following examples are preferred materials of the
different components of the fabric construction of the present
invention:
EXAMPLE I - Shell Fabric 15
Cloth Type:
200 Denier nylon (warp), and 3-ply 70 denier taslanized
nylon (filling), plain weave
Count:
warp: 114, filling: 52
Weight (uncoated):
5.5 ounces per square yard (+ 0.4 ounces)
Break Strength (pounds):
warp: 351 (minimum), filling: 156 (minimum)
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Tear Strength (lbs.): 21 7 31 9 ~
warp: 19 (minimum), filling: 8 (minimum)
Shrinkage:
warp 2% (maximum), filling 2% (maximum)
Color Fastness and Crocking:
Good
EXAMPLE II - Shell Fabric 15
Cloth Type:
70 denier nylon (warp), and 2-ply 70 denier taslanized
nylon (filling), plain weave
Count:
warp: 158, filling: 68
Weight:
(uncoated): 3.0 ounces per sq. yd. (+ 0.4 ounces)
Break Strength (pounds):
warp: 210 (minimum), filling: 100 (minimum)
Tear Strength (lbs):
warp: 4 (minimum), filling: 6 (minimum)
Shrinkage:
warp 2% (maximum), filling 2% (maximum)
Color Fastness and Crocking:
Good 20/40 hours
EXAMPLE III - Printed Pattern 16
A printed, non-ravel, honeycomb-pattern coating to ensure
breathability, prevent seam slippage and fabric unraveling, and
to maintain shell fabric appearance. The coating consists of
an aqueous blend of acrylic, urethane and silicone. The
resulting pattern consists of a terpolymer which on drying
contains about 12 to 30% urethane, about 1% silicone, and a
roughly remainder of acrylic. During printing, the viscosity
is adjusted so that it may be applied with a rotary screen
printing head onto dyed fabric using a rotary screen having the
desired pattern. In the present case, the screen is designed
to have a hexagonal pattern, where the hexagonal shapes are
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hollow and contiguous with common sides. The pattern has abouta 50% coverage and 9 cells per linear inch. Preferred coating
weight add-on is in the range of 0.3 to 0.5 ounces per square
yard. A formulation of this type is sold by Lyons Coatings,
Inc., Franklin, Massachusetts, under the trade designation
Coating Compound 975-3.
EXAMPLE IV - Printed Pattern 16
A printed, non-ravel, wavy line-pattern coating to ensure
breathability, prevent seam slippage and fabric unraveling, and
to maintain shell fabric appearance. The coating consists of
an aqueous blend of acrylic, urethane and silicone. The
resulting pattern consists of a terpolymer which on drying
contains about 12 to 30% urethane, about 1% silicone, and a
roughly remainder of acrylic. During printing, the viscosity
is adjusted so that it may be applied with a rotary screen
printing head onto dyed fabric using a rotary screen having the
desired pattern. In the present case, the screen is designed
to have a wavy-line pattern, such that the lines are continous
from one edge of the fabric 15 to the opposite edge. The lines
are approximately sinusoidal is shape and are about 1/8 inches
in width and about 1/8 inches apart. The pattern has about a
50% coverage. Preferred coating weight add-on is in the range
of 0.3 to 0.5 ounces per square yard. A formulation of this
type is sold by Lyons Coatings, Inc., Franklin, Massachusetts,
5 under the trade designation Coating Compound 975-3.
EXAMPLE V - Printed Pattern 16
A printed, non-ravel, dot-pattern coating to ensure
breathability, prevent seam slippage and fabric unraveling, and
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to maintain shell fabric appearance. The coating consists of
an aqueous blend of acrylic, urethane and silicone. The
resulting pattern consists of a terpolymer which on drying
contains about 12 to 30% urethane, about 1% silicone, and a
roughly remainder of acrylic. During printing, the viscosity
is adjusted so that it may be applied with a rotary screen
printing head onto dyed fabric using a rotary screen having the
desired pattern. In the present case, the screen is designed
to have a circular dot pattern with about 50% coverage and 9
dots per linear inch with each dot being about 1/8 inches in
diameter. Preferred coating weight add-on is in the range of
0.3 to 0.5 ounces per square yard. A formulation of this type
is sold by Lyons Coatings, Inc., Franklin, Massachusetts, under
the trade designation Coating Compound 975-3.
EXAMPLE VI - Protective Impregnation 18
After pattern 16 has been applied and dried, shell 12 is
given a water repellent treatment which consists of a
protective material being applied onto the surface and dried in
a manner which is well understood by those skilled in the art.
One such coating is a fluorocarbon solution sold by 3M under
the trade designation SCOTCHGARD~. It has been found that
durability of pattern 16 and its adhesion to fabric 15 is
optimum when protective impregnation 18 occurs after pattern 16
has been applied.
EXAMPLE VII - Lining Fabric 24, 32, 34
The lining fabric 24, 32, 34 is a nylon weave or knit.
This fabric has the following specifications:
Cloth Type:
40 denier single ply 100% nylon weave or knit
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Count:
Wales: 39, Courses: 40
EXAMPLE VIII - Lining Fabric 24, 32, 34
The lining fabric 24, 32, 34 is a polyester weave or knit.
The fabric has the following specifications:
Cloth Type:
100% texturized polyester, 70 denier warp and
filling
Count:
warp: 102, filling: 102
Weight:
2.18 ounces per square yard
EXAMPLE IX - Vapor Permeable Membrane 22, 30
Membrane 22, 30 is a porous composite film that is
laminated to the lining fabric 24, 32, 34. The film 22, 30 is
made from two components. One component is pure expanded
polytetrafluoroethylene. This portion of the film 22, 30
contains about nine billion pores per square inch. The pores
are much smaller than a droplet of liquid water but much larger
than a molecule of water vapor. Liquid water cannot pass
through the film 22, 30 but moisture vapor can pass through.
The other component is polyalkylene oxide polyurethane-urea, an
oleophobic substance that prevents contamination of the film
22, 30 from oils, cosmetics, insect repellents, food
substances, and other hazards. Porous films of this type are
sold under the trade designation GORE-TEX~ by W. L. Gore &
Associates, Inc., Elkton, Maryland. This film has the
following specifications:
Weight (ounces per square yard):
0.75 + 0.25
Breathability (MVTR grams per square meter per 24 hours):
650 minimum, ASTM E-96-80 Procedure B
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Hydrostatic Resistance (pounds per square inch):
60 minimum, Federal Standard 191, Method 5512 (Mullen
Tester)
EXAMPLE X - Vapor Permeable Membrane 22, 30
Membrane 22, 30 is a microporous coating. The coating is
either directly applied to the lining fabric 24, 32 or is
applied to a release paper, adhered to the lining fabric 24,
32, and the release paper removed. The micropores in the
coating are much smaller than a droplet of liquid water but
much larger than a molecule of water vapor. Liquid water
cannot pass through the membrane 22, 30 but moisture vapor can
pass through. Porous coatings of this type are sold under the
trade designation ULTREX~ III by Burlington Industries of
Burlington, New York. This coating has the following
specifications:
Raw Material:
Polyurethane
Spray Rating:
100, AATCC-22-85
Suter Hydrostatic (millimeters):
greater than 1275, AATCC-127-85
Rain Test (grams):
0.02, AATCC-35-85, 3 feet for 5 minutes
Impact Penetration (grams):
0.01, AATCC-42-80
Breathability (MVTR grams per square meter per 24 hours):
250 - 600, ASTM E-96-80, 74F ~49% relative humidity
EXAMPLE XI - Vapor Permeable Membrane 22, 30
Membrane 22, 30 is a non-porous, hydrophilic polyester
ether film that is laminated to the lining fabric 24, 32, 34.
The film has molecular chains that have a water vapor
conductive or capillary effect. Water vapor enters into the
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closed membrane and moves along the molecular chains. The
direction of movement is determined by the water vapor
concentration gradient between the front and back of the
membrane. In the vicinity of a textile, water vapor is mixed
with air. As the temperature of air rises, it can absorb
increasing concentrations of water vapor. For example, the
warm air between skin and clothing can absorb up to
approximately 40 ,ug/m3 of water vapor, and outside air at 20C
up to 17 ,ug/m3. Even in rainy weather, the water vapor
concentration is higher on the side closest to the skin than on
the outside. This results in transport of water vapor from
inside to outside. Non-porous hydrophilic polyesters of this
type are sold under the trade designation SYMPATEX~ by Ekzo of
Arnheim, Netherlands. This film has the following
specifications:
Raw material: hydrophilic polyester ether
Structure: homogeneous, non-porous
Density: 1.27 grams per cubic meter
Thickness: 15 ,um
Width: 155 cm
Visual properties: colorless, transparent, slightly
opaque
Softening point: above 200C
Melting point: above 220C
Shrinkage in hot air: slight shrinkage (< 1%) up to
200C
Strength: more than 1.5 daN/5 cm
Stretch before tearing: approximately 300%
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Permanent stretch: approximately 20% after 50%
overall stretch
Recovery: up to approximately 4% overall
stretching no residual
stretching
Moisture absorption: 1.6% at 50% relative humidity,
20C
Windproofness: no air passage (DIN 53887)
Water absorption: approximately 5% at 20C after
wetting and spin drying
Water vapor permeability: above 2500 grams per square
meter per 24 hours ASTM E 96-66
(method B, modified)
Water tightness: no water permeation at 1 bar =
10 meter water column (DIN
53886)
EXAMPLE XII - Vapor Permeable Membrane 22, 30
Membrane 22, 30 is a non-porous, hydrophilic polyurethane
coating. The coating is either directly applied to the lining
fabric 24, 32 or is applied to a release paper, adhered to the
lining fabric 24, 32, and the release paper removed. The
coating has molecular chains that have a water vapor conductive
or capillary effect. Water vapor enters into the coating and
moves along the molecular chains. The direction of movement is
determined by the water vapor concentration gradient between
the front and back of the coating. In the vicinity of a
textile, water vapor is mixed with air. As the temperature of
air rises, it can absorb increasing concentrations of water
vapor. For example, the warm air between skin and clothing can
absorb up to approximately 40 ,ug/m3 of water vapor, and outside
air at 20C up to 17 ,ug/m3. Even in rainy weather, the water
vapor concentration is higher on the side closest to the skin
than on the outside. This results in transport of water vapor
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from inside to outside. Non-porous hydrophilic polyurethanes
of this type are sold under the trade designation TRAVTECH~ by
Travis Textiles, Inc., New York, New York. This coating has
the following specifications:
Raw material:
hydrophilic polyurethane that is the reaction product
of an organic polyisocyanate, poly(alkalenether)glycol,
poly(oxyethylene)glycol, and a reactive hydroxyl group-
containing poly(dimethyl siloxane) with a functionality
of two or more
Water vapor
permeability (grams per square meter per 24 hours):
500-600, ASTM E 96
Hydrostatic Resistance (pounds per square inch):
100, 50 after 5 launderings, Method 5512 (Mullen
Tester)
Spray Rating:
90 - 100, 50 - 70 after 5 launderings, Method AATCC-22
Examples of Preferred Combinations
The following examples are preferred combinations of the
above-described components of the present invention:
EXAMPLE XIII - Preferred Combination A
A preferred combination of shell and lining comprises the
following:
Shell fabric 15:
nylon as specified in Example I
Pattern 16:
connected hexagonal pattern as specified in Example III
Protective impregnation 18:
fluorocarbon as specified in Example VI
Lining fabric 24:
Polyester weave as specified in Example VIII
Membrane 22:
polytetrafluorethylene, polyalkylene oxide polyurethane
urea composite film as specified in Example IX
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EXAMPLE XIV - Preferred Combination B
Another preferred combination of shell and lining comprises
the following:
Shell fabric 15:
nylon as specified in Example I
Pattern 16:
connected hexagonal pattern as specified in Example
III
Protective impregnation 18:
fluorocarbon as specified in Example VI
Outer lining fabric 34:
nylon knit as specified in Example VII
Membrane 30:
polytetrafluorethylene, polyalkylene oxide polyurethane
urea composite film as specified in Example IX
Inner lining fabric 32:
polyester weave as specified in Example VIII
EXAMPLE XV - Preferred Combination C
Another preferred combination of shell and lining comprises
the following:
Shell fabric 15:
nylon as specified in Example II
Pattern 16:
unconnected wavy-line pattern as specified in Example
IV
Protective impregnation 18:
fluorocarbon as specified in Example VI
Lining fabric 24:
Nylon knit or weave as specified in Example VII
Membrane 22:
microporous polyurethane coating as specified in
Example X
EXAMPLE XVI - Preferred Combination D
Another preferred combination of shell and lining comprises
the following:
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21 73I 9!3
Shell fabric 15:
nylon as specified in Example I
Pattern 16:
unconnected dot pattern as specified in Example V
Protective impregnation 18:
fluorocarbon as specified in Example VI
Lining fabric 24:
Nylon knit or weave as specified in Example VII
Membrane 22:
hydrophilic polyester ether film as specified in
Example XI
EXAMPLE XVII - Preferred Combination E
Another preferred combination of shell and lining comprises
the following:
Shell fabric 15:
nylon as specified in Example I
Pattern 16:
unconnected dot pattern as specified in Example V
Protective impregnation 18:
fluorocarbon as specified in Example VI
Outer lining fabric 34:
polyester knit as specified in Example VIII
Membrane 30:
hydrophilic polyurethane coating as specified in
Example XII
Inner lining fabric 32:
Nylon weave as specified in Example VII
OPERATION
A shell and a lining cooperate in the following manner:
Vapor permeability is enabled by a hydrophilic or microporous
membrane, in cooperation with the openings in a printed pattern
and the interstices of an inner fabric strata. Water
repellency is achieved by a treated outer fabric, and by the
membrane which protects against seepage through the inner
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fabric. Wind obstruction is achieved by the outer fabric and
the membrane. Stain resistance and durability are achieved by
the outer fabric and a treatment to which it has been
subjected. The inner fabric has a pleasant hand and feel. The
construction ensures a comfortable balance among evaporation,
conduction, and convection in the space between the shell and
the lining.
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